So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past using
tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having a very hard
time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of 1/4" MDF. SO...for a
sled, will MDF work out all right or should I keep looking for the tempered
hardboard?

Mike

On Mar 29, 8:20*am, "The Davenport's" wrote:
So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past using
tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having a very hard
time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of 1/4" MDF. SO...for a
sled, will MDF work out all right or should I keep looking for the tempered
hardboard?

Mike

I would look for the hardwood, The MDF will not slide as well on the
saw.
Randy
http://www.nokeswoodworks.com

"The Davenport's" wrote in message
...
So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past
using tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having a very
hard time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of 1/4" MDF.
SO...for a sled, will MDF work out all right or should I keep looking for
the tempered hardboard?


If it was smooth on both sides it was MDF. The manufacturing process is
quite different but the end product is not. The 'tempering' I think refers
to the inclusion of oils in the hardboard recipe.

Tim w

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 06:27:11 -0700 (PDT), randyswoodshoop
wrote:

I would look for the hardwood, The MDF will not slide as well on the
saw.

Wax, Grasshopper... Wax...

"Valued Corporate #120,345 Employee (B A R R Y)"
wrote in message
...
| On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 06:27:11 -0700 (PDT), randyswoodshoop
| wrote:
|
| I would look for the hardwood, The MDF will not slide as well on the
| saw.
|
| Wax, Grasshopper... Wax...

Hmmm.... what an odd coincidence. I have a recording of Wild West Tech
playing in a window while reading the rec. As I was opening this message
David Carradine was saying , "Remember Grasshopper, the taking of a life
does no one honor." So which is it, wax or no honor that is the Master's
words of wisdom for today?

Me, I have use a waxed piece of Baltic birch for my sled...

John

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 10:02:21 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


Me, I have use a waxed piece of Baltic birch for my sled...

Same here, but what's at hand is often when gets used. G

I've made lots of MDF jigs, as well as plywood, and wax is very
worthwhile on the moving parts, regardless of wood-based material.

Of course, no wax on surfaces where the stock goes. DAMHIKT!

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 13:39:26 GMT, "Valued Corporate #120,345 Employee (B A R R
Y)" wrote:

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 06:27:11 -0700 (PDT), randyswoodshoop
wrote:

I would look for the hardwood, The MDF will not slide as well on the
saw.

Wax, Grasshopper... Wax...

I used to use Johnson's wax but since I've been using TopCoat on the table saw,
a plywood sled slides just fine without wax... YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 13:38:59 +0000, Tim W wrote:

If it was smooth on both sides it was MDF.

That may be true today, but if by hardboard the OP meant tempered
masonite, it used to be available smooth on both sides.

If it was smooth on both sides it was MDF.

That may be true today, but if by hardboard the OP meant tempered
masonite, it used to be available smooth on both sides.

That is what it was...smooth masonite. I think the last time I bought it, I
was still in high school...and that was nearly thirty years ago.

So...the consensus seems to be to use MDF with a good coat of wax...that
works for me.

Thanks to all input, as usual, helpful and to the point!

Mike

John Grossbohlin wrote:
Me, I have use a waxed piece of Baltic birch for my sled...

Same here, mine is all Baltic birch and works just fine without wax
applied to the sled, simply because wax is applied to the saw.

--
Blog Me! http://BitchSpot.JadeDragonOnline.com

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 13:39:26 GMT, "Valued Corporate #120,345 Employee (B A
R R
Y)" wrote:

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 06:27:11 -0700 (PDT), randyswoodshoop
wrote:

I would look for the hardwood, The MDF will not slide as well on the
saw.

Wax, Grasshopper... Wax...

I used to use Johnson's wax but since I've been using TopCoat on the table
saw,
a plywood sled slides just fine without wax... YMWV

old candle ends.

Tim w
Three months, two days, 5 hs, 38 mins & 38 secs. 1118 cigarettes not smoked,
saving £251.73. Life saved: 3 days, 21 hours, 10 minutes. Going all the way
this time.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 13:38:59 +0000, Tim W wrote:

If it was smooth on both sides it was MDF.

That may be true today, but if by hardboard the OP meant tempered
masonite, it used to be available smooth on both sides.

Yes I think they call it masonite in america. I stand corrected. I have
never seen hardboard smooth both sides, but plenty of 3mm mdf.

Tim w
Three months, two days, 5 hs, 36 mins & 30 secs. 1118 cigarettes not smoked,
saving £251.73. Life saved: 3 days, 21 hours, 10 minutes. Going all the way
this time.

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 18:37:34 GMT, "Tim W"
wrote:



Yes I think they call it masonite in america. I stand corrected. I have
never seen hardboard smooth both sides,

It is out there, as I have some in my basement.

"Tim W" wrote in message

That may be true today, but if by hardboard the OP meant tempered
masonite, it used to be available smooth on both sides.

Yes I think they call it masonite in america. I stand corrected. I have
never seen hardboard smooth both sides, but plenty of 3mm mdf.

Masonite is the trade name of hardboard made by the Masonite Corporation,
founded by William Mason. They no longer make that product, but they do
make doors.

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 10:02:21 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


"Valued Corporate #120,345 Employee (B A R R Y)"
wrote in message
.. .
| On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 06:27:11 -0700 (PDT), randyswoodshoop
| wrote:
|
| I would look for the hardwood, The MDF will not slide as well on the
| saw.
|
| Wax, Grasshopper... Wax...

Hmmm.... what an odd coincidence. I have a recording of Wild West Tech
playing in a window while reading the rec. As I was opening this message
David Carradine was saying , "Remember Grasshopper, the taking of a life
does no one honor." So which is it, wax or no honor that is the Master's
words of wisdom for today?

Me, I have use a waxed piece of Baltic birch for my sled...

John


Definitely the best. MDF and "Masonite" or Tempered Hardboard are both
OK for short term light use but both deteriorate with age and
moisture, and are low strength. Baltic Plywood is dimensionally
stable, moisture resistant, strong, and takes a good finish/holds wax
well .

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 10:11:42 -0400, "Valued Corporate #120,345
Employee (B A R R Y)" wrote:

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 10:02:21 -0400, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:


Me, I have use a waxed piece of Baltic birch for my sled...

Same here, but what's at hand is often when gets used. G

I've made lots of MDF jigs, as well as plywood, and wax is very
worthwhile on the moving parts, regardless of wood-based material.

Of course, no wax on surfaces where the stock goes. DAMHIKT!

BoeLub works good even where the stock goes.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 13:38:59 GMT, "Tim W"
wrote:


"The Davenport's" wrote in message
...
So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past
using tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having a very
hard time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of 1/4" MDF.
SO...for a sled, will MDF work out all right or should I keep looking for
the tempered hardboard?


If it was smooth on both sides it was MDF. The manufacturing process is
quite different but the end product is not. The 'tempering' I think refers
to the inclusion of oils in the hardboard recipe.

Tim w

Tempered hardboard is NOT MDF. It is SIMILAR but not nearly as dense -
it splits in layers - and it was available smooth one side, or smooth
both sides. Most common was smooth one side. The stuff used for the
backs on cheap knock-down /ship-flat furniture and the moulded backs
in cheap kitchen cabinets, as well as many hollow-core interior paint
grade doors. Was also the base of the majority of the cheap :wood
paneling" installed in the sixties and seventies.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:10:38 -0400, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Tim W" wrote in message

That may be true today, but if by hardboard the OP meant tempered
masonite, it used to be available smooth on both sides.

Yes I think they call it masonite in america. I stand corrected. I have
never seen hardboard smooth both sides, but plenty of 3mm mdf.

Masonite is the trade name of hardboard made by the Masonite Corporation,
founded by William Mason. They no longer make that product, but they do
make doors.

Many of which still have "tempered hardboard" skins.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:59:08 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:10:38 -0400, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Tim W" wrote in message

That may be true today, but if by hardboard the OP meant tempered
masonite, it used to be available smooth on both sides.

Yes I think they call it masonite in america. I stand corrected. I have
never seen hardboard smooth both sides, but plenty of 3mm mdf.

Masonite is the trade name of hardboard made by the Masonite Corporation,
founded by William Mason. They no longer make that product, but they do
make doors.

Many of which still have "tempered hardboard" skins.

Seems to me I've replaced a lot of those in rentals.. seems the doors were
tempered but the tenants weren't..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Tim W wrote:
"The Davenport's" wrote in message
...
So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the
past
using tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having
a very hard time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of
1/4" MDF. SO...for a sled, will MDF work out all right or should I
keep looking for the tempered hardboard?


If it was smooth on both sides it was MDF. The manufacturing process
is quite different but the end product is not. The 'tempering' I
think refers to the inclusion of oils in the hardboard recipe.

The end product is quite different as well. Tempered hardboard is
suitable for exterior use. While it's relatively hard to come by
these days, S2S hardboard was fairly commonplace when I was younger
and you can still get it if you look for it--one source that ships
anywhere in the US is Boulter Plywood http://www.boulterplywood.com/
who carries the "Duron" brand.


--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 14:05:31 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:59:08 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:10:38 -0400, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Tim W" wrote in message

That may be true today, but if by hardboard the OP meant tempered
masonite, it used to be available smooth on both sides.

Yes I think they call it masonite in america. I stand corrected. I have
never seen hardboard smooth both sides, but plenty of 3mm mdf.

Masonite is the trade name of hardboard made by the Masonite Corporation,
founded by William Mason. They no longer make that product, but they do
make doors.

Many of which still have "tempered hardboard" skins.

Seems to me I've replaced a lot of those in rentals.. seems the doors were
tempered but the tenants weren't..



Tennants were just BAD TEMPERED
mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 08:20:32 -0500, The Davenport's wrote:

So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past
using tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having a
very hard time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of 1/4"
MDF. SO...for a sled, will MDF work out all right or should I keep
looking for the tempered hardboard?

Mike

HDF is usually available from flooring or furniture/cabinet makers.
It's more stable than MDF, won't warp as easily, and performs better with
fasteners. I use mini toggle clamps on some of my sleds and the hold down
screws will rip out of MDF but have held up well with HDF. It's also
slicker, having a hard surface instead of the textured particle board
feel of unsurfaced MDF. It is however heavier than waxed plywood.
Works great for routing and bandsaw templates. Lasts much longer than MDF
and much cheaper than plywood.

If you go with plywood, another idea for a slicker surface is dry teflon
spray. Use the rest of the can on tools, bikes, weather stripping, etc..
Dry teflon spray, not teflon motorcycle chain lube (contains lithium
grease). Works great on the lathe tool rest and tailstock slides. Doesn't
pickup sawdust like grease or oil.

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 08:20:32 -0500, "The Davenport's"
wrote:

So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past using
tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having a very hard
time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of 1/4" MDF. SO...for a
sled, will MDF work out all right or should I keep looking for the tempered
hardboard?

Mike


Should work, keep it dry and it should last. Increase the number of
screws to hold it together. I made mine from cabinet-grade
ply--showing no signs of wear after 15 years of heavy use.

If you can find a Marine outlet, check out their marine "wood" which
is a slick plastic "board" that, while it cannot be glued up, does
machine easily and is dimensionally stable & slick. It is also
stronger than tempered hardboard and MDF.

Another alternative is to check with Home Depot Kitchen Design staff
to see if you can get a sink cutout from someone ordering one of those
fancy plastic countertops - if you have a Habitat Re-store in your
area, check them out for recycled countertops - usually 24" deep and
1/2" thick.

The countertop material can be glued! And, it is slick and stable,

You can make the runners out of the material and use machine screws
(Marine "wood") or adhesive (counter top material) On Mar 29, 9:20
am, "The Davenport's" wrote:
So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past using
tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having a very hard
time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of 1/4" MDF. SO...for a
sled, will MDF work out all right or should I keep looking for the tempered
hardboard?

Mike

The Davenport's wrote:
So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past using
tempered hardboard that was smooth on both sides...I'm having a very hard
time finding that stock now, altho I can find plenty of 1/4" MDF. SO...for a
sled, will MDF work out all right or should I keep looking for the tempered
hardboard?

Mike


You could glue the two rough sides together. Wouldn't be 1/4" anymore
but would be smooth both sides.

Wayne