Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

"fourempties" wrote in message
...
Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

Did he say it *could* be wired for 220? most contractor saws can be wired
either way by switching a couple of connections in the motor housing
(usually detailed on or in the housing), but it involves changing the plug.

jc

On Feb 23, 7:29*am, "Joe" wrote:
"fourempties" wrote in message

...

Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

Did he say it *could* be wired for 220? *most contractor saws can be wired
either way by switching a couple of connections in the motor housing
(usually detailed on or in the housing), but it involves changing the plug..

jc

Nope- he said it IS wired for 220.

On Feb 23, 6:31 am, fourempties wrote:
On Feb 23, 7:29 am, "Joe" wrote:

"fourempties" wrote in message

...

Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

Did he say it *could* be wired for 220? most contractor saws can be wired
either way by switching a couple of connections in the motor housing
(usually detailed on or in the housing), but it involves changing the plug.

jc

Nope- he said it IS wired for 220.

Open up the motor and check the wiring diagram against what's
connected.

It is possible (though inadvisable, certainly not code, possibly
illegal in most jurisdictions) to run 220V through a 110V plug (there
are enough conductors). I had a friend who's crimson-necked brother
(a redneck amongst rednecks) did this because he didn't want to spend
money on a new plug and a new outlet. But in his mind it was OK since
a) he knew about it and b) he sprayed red paint on the outlet and the
plug. A few years later his wife or kid plugged some non-220 item
into the red outlet and it didn't go well.

hex
-30-

"fourempties" wrote in message
...
On Feb 23, 7:29 am, "Joe" wrote:
"fourempties" wrote in message

...

Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

Did he say it *could* be wired for 220? most contractor saws can be wired
either way by switching a couple of connections in the motor housing
(usually detailed on or in the housing), but it involves changing the
plug.

jc

Nope- he said it IS wired for 220.

I suspect he erred. Unless he has some very non-standard wiring in his
shop, you're not going to get 220 out of a 110 outlet, regardless of plug
type, motor wiring, etc. If he has non-standard wiring, then indeed he
could have had 110V outlets (standard duplex outlets) wired up so that they
delivered 220V - all it takes is to put the neutral on the other pole of a
220V breaker. In that case, he could indeed use a 110V plug/outlet
combination for a 220V saw. That's the only way you could get 220V out of a
standard 110V duplex though.

Plug the saw into a 110V outlet. If it comes right up to speed, it's wired
for 110. If it does not, then it's wired for 220V. Or... take off the
motor plate and inspect the wiring, comparing the internal connections to
the wiring chart that is most likely right there.

--

-Mike-

"fourempties" wrote in message
...
Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

Make certain yourself by looking at the wiring diagram for the motor before
you plug it in.

He might well have been running it on 220 circuit with a 110 plug, although
it is exceeding stupid/dumb/foolish to wire a 220 circuit so that it will
take a 110 plug, so don't make the same mistake ... verify, verify.

Myself, don't think I would purchase a saw with firing it up ... if you've
already paid for it, just hope it's not a ruse to put the blame on you for
an already fried motor.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote

Myself, don't think I would purchase a saw with firing it up ...

That should, obviously, be "without" firing it up ...

(Can't be too damned careful in matters 'electrical' around here)


www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Feb 23, 8:02*am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote

Myself, don't think I would purchase a saw with firing it up ...

That should, obviously, be "without" firing it up ...

(Can't be too damned careful in matters 'electrical' around here)

www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Ah- but I didn't say I had not fired it up. It fired up in his garage,
but I don't know what his electrical set-up is, and I don't know much
about electricity anyway. I am just wondering what will happen if I
plug it into a regular outlet and turn it on, or if I need to try and
wire it for 110. Smoke? Fire? Running at half-speed? Fry a circuit?
Trip the breaker? Nothing?

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 04:25:05 -0800 (PST), fourempties
wrote:

Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.


I bought a RAS from an estate where the owner had wired the motor for
220 but left the original 120 plug in place, then used a pigtail
adapter to plug it in to a 220 outlet.

Once I got the machine home, I changed out the plug so there'd be no
confusion.


--
Chuck Taylor
http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/

Joe wrote:
"fourempties" wrote in message
...
Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it
works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts?
I
have not turned it on yet.

Did he say it *could* be wired for 220? most contractor saws can be
wired either way by switching a couple of connections in the motor
housing (usually detailed on or in the housing), but it involves
changing the plug.

Changing the plug isn't technologically required--any plug that has
two prongs can pass 220. But it is certainly advisable as is using
220v receptacles instead of 110 on 220v lines, even though the 110v
receptacles will actually _work_ just fine as long as you don't plug
any 110v equipment into them.


--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"fourempties" wrote

Ah- but I didn't say I had not fired it up.

Any thoughts? I have not turned it on yet.

Sorry, sure sounded that way ...

plug it into a regular outlet and turn it on, or if I need to try and
wire it for 110. Smoke? Fire? Running at half-speed? Fry a circuit?
Trip the breaker? Nothing?

If the saw is wired for 220 and you plug it into a 110 circuit that is
_properly_ wired, more than likely it just won't run at all and there should
be no damage.

The other way around and you'll likely let all the smoke out.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"fourempties" wrote

Ah- but I didn't say I had not fired it up.

Any thoughts? I have not turned it on yet.

Sorry, sure sounded that way ...

plug it into a regular outlet and turn it on, or if I need to try and
wire it for 110. Smoke? Fire? Running at half-speed? Fry a circuit?
Trip the breaker? Nothing?

If the saw is wired for 220 and you plug it into a 110 circuit that is
_properly_ wired, more than likely it just won't run at all and there
should
be no damage.

The other way around and you'll likely let all the smoke out.

ROTFL I just had to picture of all these saws with a built in smoke
canister just ready to blow in the event you hook it up wrong. Can the
smoke be replaced or do you have to get a new canister? ;~)

On Feb 23, 7:34 am, Chuck Taylor wrote:

Once I got the machine home, I changed out the plug so there'd be no
confusion.

No sense of adventure, eh?

Robert

In article ,
fourempties wrote:
Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

It implies that there must be a 120V _outlet_ that is wired for 220. It
probably wouldn't hurt a 220V saw to be briefly connected to 110,
but if a 110V tool was plugged into 220, watch out!




--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 04:25:05 -0800 (PST), fourempties
wrote:

Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

Ok.. he COULD have a 220v circuit at home with a 110v plug.. Not that uncommon,
I have a couple of 220v switched cords that have 115v plugs on them..
Most likely, though, he meant that it COULD run on 220v...

I have a Ridgid TS and it takes maybe 3 minutes to check, so I'd do the
following before I plugged it in to anything:

Pull the screws off the motor started plate and look at the diagram on the
housing, compared to how the motor is wired.. It's a LOT easier than you'd
think, because the wire routing is very different for 220/110..

BTW: a lot of things say "prewired" 220v but you have to change them anyway..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Feb 23, 1:02*pm, mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 04:25:05 -0800 (PST), fourempties
wrote:

Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts? I
have not turned it on yet.

Ok.. he COULD have a 220v circuit at home with a 110v plug.. Not that uncommon,
I have a couple of 220v switched cords that have 115v plugs on them..
Most likely, though, he meant that it COULD run on 220v...

I have a Ridgid TS and it takes maybe 3 minutes to check, so I'd do the
following before I plugged it in to anything:

Pull the screws off the motor started plate and look at the diagram on the
housing, compared to how the motor is wired.. It's a LOT easier than you'd
think, because the wire routing is very different for 220/110..

BTW: a lot of things say "prewired" 220v but you have to change them anyway..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I have it wired for 110 now, but I have another problem which I
started another thread for. The post is called:

Ridgid table saw motor wiring

Any help would be seriously appreciated.

wrote:

On Feb 23, 7:34 am, Chuck Taylor wrote:


Once I got the machine home, I changed out the plug so there'd be no
confusion.


No sense of adventure, eh?

Robert


I had a an old table saw that was wired for 110. It could be
wired either way, but at that time I only had 110 in my shop. I
had installed a quad outlet box on it. I took it to a jobsite
and set it up. Was popping breakers when ripping 8/4 oak and
asked the electrician to rewire it for 220, so he did and
hardwired it to the temporary loop. He told me that the outlets
on that quad box would all be 220, now, so don't use them. I didn't.

One morning, I came in and the drywall guys were already there
putting up drywall. They all had these brand new Makita drywall
guns and were raving about how fast a powerful they were. Thats
when I noticed where they had them plugged in!

They were ****ed when I told them that they were running on 220,
but surprisingly it did not seem to damage them. They ran fine
for the rest of the job and for the several after that. I am
sure that their life expectancy had been reduced, but I have no
idea by how much.

After they switched over to standard power, the bragging stopped.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

"Leon" wrote

ROTFL I just had to picture of all these saws with a built in smoke
canister just ready to blow in the event you hook it up wrong. Can the
smoke be replaced or do you have to get a new canister? ;~)

It'd be toast at that point ... burnt toast!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

In article ,
Leon wrote:

ROTFL I just had to picture of all these saws with a built in smoke
canister just ready to blow in the event you hook it up wrong. Can the
smoke be replaced or do you have to get a new canister? ;~)

Unfortunately, it is _magic_ smoke that makes all power devices run.

Creating replacement magic smoke is generally beyond the capabilities of the
typical mortal.

One usually needs to take the device in question to a practicing thaumaturge
(one specializing in alchemy and transformations), whom, after sufficient
groveling on your part, will consent to transform an inordinate amount of
your money into the requisite magic smoke for the particular type of device
and emplace same in the device.

"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Leon wrote:

ROTFL I just had to picture of all these saws with a built in smoke
canister just ready to blow in the event you hook it up wrong. Can the
smoke be replaced or do you have to get a new canister? ;~)

Unfortunately, it is _magic_ smoke that makes all power devices run.

Creating replacement magic smoke is generally beyond the capabilities of
the
typical mortal.

One usually needs to take the device in question to a practicing
thaumaturge
(one specializing in alchemy and transformations), whom, after sufficient
groveling on your part, will consent to transform an inordinate amount of
your money into the requisite magic smoke for the particular type of
device
and emplace same in the device.



;~) Having been in the automotive business for many years and having a
close association with the Oldsmobile factory rep he could never explain a
question I have had ever since I was 23 years old. I replaced the
submerged, universal electric motor fuel pump on my car. Wondering how that
little cylinder shaped pump worked I cut it opened and to my surprise found
that the gasoline passes through the middle of the motor and keeps every
thing inside perfectly clean including the brushes. Now I know that the
brushes will not spark when they are submerged however there are times that
you run out of gasoline and air is surely introduced into the mix. Why no
big bang?

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:
"fourempties" wrote in message
...
Just bought a Ridgid TS that the guy said is wired 220 but has a
standard plug on it to use in a regular 110 outlet. He said it
works
fine this way and he used it all the time like this. Any thoughts?
I
have not turned it on yet.

Did he say it *could* be wired for 220? most contractor saws can be
wired either way by switching a couple of connections in the motor
housing (usually detailed on or in the housing), but it involves
changing the plug.

Changing the plug isn't technologically required--any plug that has
two prongs can pass 220. But it is certainly advisable as is using
220v receptacles instead of 110 on 220v lines, even though the 110v
receptacles will actually _work_ just fine as long as you don't plug
any 110v equipment into them.


--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)


Very true. I guess I was assuming (oops) the seller was being smart about
it. I gotta stop doing that.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"fourempties" wrote

Ah- but I didn't say I had not fired it up.

Any thoughts? I have not turned it on yet.

Sorry, sure sounded that way ...

plug it into a regular outlet and turn it on, or if I need to try and
wire it for 110. Smoke? Fire? Running at half-speed? Fry a circuit?
Trip the breaker? Nothing?

If the saw is wired for 220 and you plug it into a 110 circuit that is
_properly_ wired, more than likely it just won't run at all and there
should
be no damage.

The other way around and you'll likely let all the smoke out.

ROTFL I just had to picture of all these saws with a built in smoke
canister just ready to blow in the event you hook it up wrong. Can the
smoke be replaced or do you have to get a new canister? ;~)

Now *I'm* rotfl! reminds of a line in the mythbusters show. "once you let
the magical blue smoke out, things no work anymore"

jc

"Leon" wrote in message
t...

"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Leon wrote:

ROTFL I just had to picture of all these saws with a built in smoke
canister just ready to blow in the event you hook it up wrong. Can the
smoke be replaced or do you have to get a new canister? ;~)

Unfortunately, it is _magic_ smoke that makes all power devices run.

Creating replacement magic smoke is generally beyond the capabilities of
the
typical mortal.

One usually needs to take the device in question to a practicing
thaumaturge
(one specializing in alchemy and transformations), whom, after sufficient
groveling on your part, will consent to transform an inordinate amount of
your money into the requisite magic smoke for the particular type of
device
and emplace same in the device.



;~) Having been in the automotive business for many years and having a
close association with the Oldsmobile factory rep he could never explain a
question I have had ever since I was 23 years old. I replaced the
submerged, universal electric motor fuel pump on my car. Wondering how
that little cylinder shaped pump worked I cut it opened and to my surprise
found that the gasoline passes through the middle of the motor and keeps
every thing inside perfectly clean including the brushes. Now I know that
the brushes will not spark when they are submerged however there are times
that you run out of gasoline and air is surely introduced into the mix.
Why no big bang?


I worked as a Metrologist in a fuel pump test facility for one of the big
US car companies for 10 years, so I might have the long sought answer to
your question.

The somewhat simplified answer, without going into all kinds of details is:

When you run out of fuel there are still a lot of vapors in the tank. Fuel
vapors are heavier than air and so they pool in the tank. That leaves an
oxygen lean environment.

The chances of getting a combustable mixture into the fuel pump and then a
hot enough spark from the brush at the that instance are extremely unlikely.

I suppose it is possible for that big bang to happen but probably only
likely on a full moon, during the vernal equinox, South of the equator.

Then you'd have to put the magic smoke back in...

You are correct that the fuel provides lubrication and cooling for the pump
motor. We had some guys take old fuel pumps and try to use them to pump
water and they don't last very long nor do they pump well. Water conducts
electricity a lot better than gasoline...

Lloyd Baker

"scouter3" wrote in message
. ..


I worked as a Metrologist in a fuel pump test facility for one of the big
US car companies for 10 years, so I might have the long sought answer to
your question.

The somewhat simplified answer, without going into all kinds of details
is:

When you run out of fuel there are still a lot of vapors in the tank. Fuel
vapors are heavier than air and so they pool in the tank. That leaves an
oxygen lean environment.

The chances of getting a combustable mixture into the fuel pump and then a
hot enough spark from the brush at the that instance are extremely
unlikely.

I suppose it is possible for that big bang to happen but probably only
likely on a full moon, during the vernal equinox, South of the equator.

I'll take your word for it as it is indeed beyond me and you seem to have
the credentials to back up the explanation. BUT while it seems like it
would be a once in a blue moon condition that may lend itself to an
explosion these type pumps have been used for decades concerning GM cars.
It seems likely with the millions of cars produced during that time there
surely would have been several once in a blue moons occourances. I have
never heard of that happening.








Then you'd have to put the magic smoke back in...

You are correct that the fuel provides lubrication and cooling for the
pump motor. We had some guys take old fuel pumps and try to use them to
pump water and they don't last very long nor do they pump well. Water
conducts electricity a lot better than gasoline...

Lloyd Baker

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"scouter3" wrote in message
. ..


I worked as a Metrologist in a fuel pump test facility for one of the big
US car companies for 10 years, so I might have the long sought answer to
your question.

The somewhat simplified answer, without going into all kinds of details
is:

When you run out of fuel there are still a lot of vapors in the tank.
Fuel vapors are heavier than air and so they pool in the tank. That
leaves an oxygen lean environment.

The chances of getting a combustable mixture into the fuel pump and then
a hot enough spark from the brush at the that instance are extremely
unlikely.

I suppose it is possible for that big bang to happen but probably only
likely on a full moon, during the vernal equinox, South of the equator.

I'll take your word for it as it is indeed beyond me and you seem to have
the credentials to back up the explanation. BUT while it seems like it
would be a once in a blue moon condition that may lend itself to an
explosion these type pumps have been used for decades concerning GM cars.
It seems likely with the millions of cars produced during that time there
surely would have been several once in a blue moons occourances. I have
never heard of that happening.


Hi Leon,

There are some other safety features designed in that take the probability
of a major thermal event occuring to near zero. I just didn't want to go
into them all.

The commutators and brushes are positioned and selected to provide a
minimal spark magnitude to further reduce the likelyhood of combustion. The
area inside the pump where any combustion would begin is very small. It
would be a little bang so to speak. The pump body is a heavy steel and there
is a check valve to prevent any flame from the little bang from escaping the
pump body and getting into the tank.

Further because the fuel vapors are heavier than air it would take a long
long time for them to escape from the tank and allow enough oxygen to enter
and form a combustable mix. The car would likely have to sit out of gas with
the gas cap off for months or years. The pump would have to pull the air
mix into the brush chamber. That would again take a long time to draw the
air in because the fuel pump isn't designed to move air. So it would take a
long long long time to get the right conditions for combustion.

I add that I was not a fuel pump engineer so there are more things that I
am forgetting about or probably don't even know about. I designed
calibration systems to ensure that the measurements made by the fuel pump
testers were accurate and precise, so I was somewhat on the perifery of the
fuel pump's inner workings. I spent some time on a team trying to solve why
ethanol was destroying the early electric fuel pumps and got to know the
inside of a fuel pump pretty well from that experience.

And ethanol comes from plants and wood does too, so now we're back on
topic...

--
Lloyd Baker

"scouter3" wrote in message
. ..

Hi Leon,

There are some other safety features designed in that take the probability
of a major thermal event occuring to near zero. I just didn't want to go
into them all.

The commutators and brushes are positioned and selected to provide a
minimal spark magnitude to further reduce the likelyhood of combustion.
The area inside the pump where any combustion would begin is very small.
It would be a little bang so to speak. The pump body is a heavy steel and
there is a check valve to prevent any flame from the little bang from
escaping the pump body and getting into the tank.

Thank you LLoyd, those comments above, especially the one about the check
valve are probably what I was looking for in an explanation.

Thank you LLoyd, those comments above, especially the one about the check
valve are probably what I was looking for in an explanation.

Glad I could help. I rarely have enough expertise to contribute much on
this group but I really enjoy reading and learning from all of the others.

I hope someday to be able to escape the high tech rat race and have time to
woodwork again for fun.

--
Lloyd Baker