I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage titebond
had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they even
make titebond. He didn't have any idea.

So I did a google search and found that the only advantage of titebond is
that parts can be taken apart with water, so it is good for joints that
might need to be taken apart.

So, my questions:

1) Can titebond joints be taken apart with water? If so, how? I made two
matching cabinets, only the plywood panels came from different sheets and
sure don't match. I would like to replace them on one cabinet. When I
posted a question a couple weeks ago on how to do that, no one suggested
dissolving the glue.

2) Is there any other advantage to titebond?

3) How susceptible to water problems is titebond? Is a cabinet in an
occasionally steamy bathroom at risk?

Thanks.

"Wade Lippman" wrote in message
...
I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage
titebond
had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they
even
make titebond. He didn't have any idea.

Titebond II can be exposed to wet conditions (outside, etc) and not have
any problems. Titebond will eventually fail.

As far as taking glued panels apart, you'll probably have to use so much
water that you'll delaminate the plywood. Titebond is pretty strong
stuff.

"Howard Ruttan" wrote in message
...
-snip-

"Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
(pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
chain. "

why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?

My gallon of Titebond II is yellow.

--
Al Reid

"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message . com...
"Howard Ruttan" wrote in message
...
-snip-

"Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
(pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
chain. "

why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?

In article m,
says...
As far as taking glued panels apart, you'll probably have to use so much
water that you'll delaminate the plywood. Titebond is pretty strong
stuff.

Yep. If you want reversibility, use hide glue. But not outside :-).

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

hmmmm. I am thinking of the "extend" version of Titebond II that I recently
used - my mistake.

--

There are no stupid questions.
There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.


"Howard Ruttan" wrote in message
...

"Mike in Mystic" wrote ...
why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?

???? My bottle of Titebond II is yellow.

--

Cheers,
Howard

----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey -
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:20:22 GMT, "Wade Lippman"
wrote:

I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage titebond
had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they even
make titebond. He didn't have any idea.

So I did a google search and found that the only advantage of titebond is
that parts can be taken apart with water, so it is good for joints that
might need to be taken apart.

So, my questions:

1) Can titebond joints be taken apart with water? If so, how? I made two
matching cabinets, only the plywood panels came from different sheets and
sure don't match. I would like to replace them on one cabinet. When I
posted a question a couple weeks ago on how to do that, no one suggested
dissolving the glue.

Yes. Warm water with a little vinegar added will loosen cured yellow
carpenter's glue joints, provided the glue is not labeled
"waterproof."


2) Is there any other advantage to titebond?

It's a yellow carpenter's glue. Elmer's is just as good. The joint,
curing process, and clamping are very important, no matter what brand
is selected.

3) How susceptible to water problems is titebond? Is a cabinet in an
occasionally steamy bathroom at risk?


A joint should not depend on the glue. There's no substitute for
mortise and tenon joinery. Make sure you run an exhaust fan for 20
minutes during/after a steamy shower--this will prevent mold/mildew
from eating the wood.

Thanks.

Mike, how much working time did the extended version give you. IIRC
someone said only an extra 10 minutes? (which might be enough to stave
off a few choice words of mine during glue-ups)


dave

Mike in Mystic wrote:

hmmmm. I am thinking of the "extend" version of Titebond II that I recently
used - my mistake.

--

There are no stupid questions.
There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.


"Howard Ruttan" wrote in message
...

"Mike in Mystic" wrote ...

why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?

???? My bottle of Titebond II is yellow.

--

Cheers,
Howard

----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey -
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org

did you leave yours in the sun? Every bottle of titebond II I've seen
is yellow...

dave

Mike in Mystic wrote:

"Howard Ruttan" wrote in message
...
-snip-

"Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
(pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
chain. "

why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?

well, I'm not sure exactly. I used it to laminate the MDF layers of the
benchtop I made. I had laid out the doghole grid before I started, so I
knew were it would be safe to use nails, so I nailed the layers together
with brads. Because of that, I didn't really explore the open time
systematically. It definitely wasn't setting up as fast as regular
titebond, but I couldn't quantify it.

Mike

--

There are no stupid questions.
There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
Mike, how much working time did the extended version give you. IIRC
someone said only an extra 10 minutes? (which might be enough to stave
off a few choice words of mine during glue-ups)


dave

Mike in Mystic wrote:

hmmmm. I am thinking of the "extend" version of Titebond II that I
recently
used - my mistake.

--

There are no stupid questions.
There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.


"Howard Ruttan" wrote in message
...

"Mike in Mystic" wrote ...

why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?

???? My bottle of Titebond II is yellow.

--

Cheers,
Howard

----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey -
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org

"Wade Lippman" wrote
Titebond II can be exposed to wet conditions (outside, etc) and not have
any problems. Titebond will eventually fail.

Just to add to what Wade said, original Titebond and Titebond II are both
polyvinyl acetate emulsions. Ther term 'aliphatic resin has little or no
real meaning. Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
(pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
chain. This cross linking makes Titebond II more resistant to degradation
by water but it will still break down. Titebond II is not waterproof by any
stretch of the imagination. Water resistant would be a batter term. Thus,
both will fail eventually in the presence of water. For a bathroom I would
definitely use Titebond II as it would resist the higher humidity more
effectively.

As far as taking glued panels apart, you'll probably have to use so much
water that you'll delaminate the plywood. Titebond is pretty strong
stuff.

Too true. To say that Titebond can be taken apart by water would be a
stretch. It is degraded by water but you do not use water to take it apart.
That would suggest reversibility and since PVA adhesives are polymerized
through a chemical reaction, they are by their very nature irreversible -
unlike hide glue for instance. No-one suggested taking it apart using water
because it just isn't a good idea. I would probably steer closer to
veneering the panel or finding another way to cover it rather than taking
the cabinet apart. You could try to use creative finishing to match them
better.

--

Cheers,
Howard

----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey -
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...


Mike, how much working time did the extended version give you. IIRC
someone said only an extra 10 minutes? (which might be enough to stave
off a few choice words of mine during glue-ups)


Nope - I got the full 30mins of open time off of Extend.. And needed every
second.

"Mike in Mystic" wrote ...
why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?

???? My bottle of Titebond II is yellow.

--

Cheers,
Howard

----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey -
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org

Fri, Nov 14, 2003, 5:20pm (EST+5)
(Wade=A0Lippman) claims:
I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage
titebond had over titebond II. snip

And, probably a Home Depot clerk to boot.

There's a 1-800 number on the container. Call it, ask your
questions. I have done it several times, they are friendly, and will
answer all your questions.

JOAT
Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
missing.

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 13 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...OMETUNESILIKE/

.....
2) Is there any other advantage to titebond?

I went back to using Titebond for most of my gluing. Titebond II was too
viscous, and more of a pain to use.

You are better off with a variety of adhesives --- Polyurethane, white (for
more working time), yellow, water-resistant yellow, 5 min epoxy, System 3
regular epoxy, hide glue, and hot shot. They all have a place in the shop.

"Wade Lippman" wrote in message
...
I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage titebond
had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they even
make titebond. He didn't have any idea.

I've used Titebond II for a couple of outdoor things. Good glue, but for
everyday working I prefer the 2002 GF from Lee Valley. I just like the way
it flows and brushes better. Moisture resistance or special applications
aside, use what ever glue feels best for you to work with.

I've also use System 3 epoxy when it was the best for the job. Filled in a
sloppy joint and gives a long set up time for a complicated assembly.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

Phisherman wrote:

It's a yellow carpenter's glue. Elmer's is just as good. The joint,
curing process, and clamping are very important, no matter what brand
is selected.

As someone who's been using Elmer's for years, I have to say I think I like
Titebond better. Still on my first bottle, mind you, so I haven't used it
much, and I haven't tried Titebond II yet. Seems to flow much easier, and
has a higher initial tack, so the parts don't want to slip around as much.
It also seems to have a longer working time. If the bottle isn't telling a
fib, it also won't transform irreversibly into cheese if I accidentally let
it freeze.

Strength wise, I doubt it matters. I've got Elmer's-glued stuff that has
held up for years.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 01:04:22 -0500, Silvan
wrote:

Phisherman wrote:

It's a yellow carpenter's glue. Elmer's is just as good. The joint,
curing process, and clamping are very important, no matter what brand
is selected.

As someone who's been using Elmer's for years, I have to say I think I like
Titebond better.

I agree, but I switched years ago. Elmer's may have changed since
then.

I've always found Titebond easier and more predictable to work with,
and it seems to sand better.

Barry