"Leon" wrote

I indicated Right again to Charlie because Charlie is most often right and
he corrected my misunderstanding of what you had said.

Ever notice that some long, wide boards will simpy not stay moving straight
over the cutter when all available hands are busy on the outfeed side?

My only problem with the method being commented upon is that, on long
boards, and particularly those that approach the maximum width capacity of
the jointer, you often need three hands, two pushing on the outfeed table,
and one on the infeed side to guide the stock past the blades.

But, there's hope for the future!

It's been my contention for some time now that evolution will eventually
give the wooddorker three hands and two more eyes on the back of his head so
no one can sneak up and scare **** out of him whilst attempting to
accomplish these often awkward tasks in the shop.

That said, all bets are off if you have an aircraft carrier flight deck
jointer, like B A R R Y ' S DJ-20!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Charlie Self wrote:

No. Your hands may be in front of the blade, but you're still pushing.

From two feet away, Charlie.

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:12:08 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

I just read an article by Glen D Huey of Popular Woodworking and he advises
not using push stick or pads when using ht jointer. He advises to use
rubber coated gloves.

So now you know that's a magazine that's not worth reading. Neither the
writer nor the editor ought to be working there.

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:28:52 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

Doesn't Maloof freehand on the bandsaw? That's an operation that makes me
shudder just thinking about it.

It's very hard to screw up on a bandsaw in a way that will take your
fingers off. I guess Maloof can afford to crimp a blade now and then.

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 22:35:08 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

Care to support that comment, keeping in mind 1 face of the board should be
flattened before the other is introduced to the thickness planer?

Just throw 'em straight into the thicknesser. Anythign too warped to
come out was too warped to be much use anyway 8-)

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
Jointing well, both edge and face, is a learned art. The machine looks
so bulky and basic but the slightest differences in technique make a
huge difference. You want to get some down pressure on the outfeed
side shortly after the material passess onto that side. For face joint
outfeed is the reference surface that controls the plane of the cut if
things are working correctly. In edge jointing, it and the fence are
equally important.

Everyone develops their own technique and the length and heft of the
material makes a difference too.

Yes, pulling can kind of be effective but the real key is consistency
in pressure and speed across the entire span of the cut.

If you switch from a push to a pull at the cost of loosing consistency
you will be able to find the wave (or worse) in the face surface.

The strangest thing for me is if you push too hard down into the table
you will taper the board, even on a perfectly configured machine. A
smooth fine touch is really needed for excellent jointing. Sharp
blades, a feel for the cut and a few hundred cuts under your belt to
find your chi.

On Jan 17, 6:19 pm, Tanus wrote:
Leon wrote:
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
news Leon wrote:
IMHO this is just plain stupid.
Maybe.
I've jointed stock that way with a major difference, no effort is exerted
on the infeed side once at least 6" clears the cutterhead.
Most of the time, I use push blocks. The times I don't are when the stock
is thick and heavy.
With or without blocks, once the stock passes the blades, both of my hands
are on the outfeed side of the machine. I'm PULLING the work across the
cutterhead. If my hand slips it goes AWAY from the blades.
A side benefit to pulling stock over a jointer is that the stock is always
referenced to the outfeed surfaces, and the operator can't unintentionally
rock the board as it moves.
BUT that is if every thing goes well. If every thing goes well no
precautions would need to be observed. What happens if the board you are
running through shatters or the cutters hit an embedded nail or a knot?
The article provides pictures of thin stock.
You really need something and more than a glove between your hand the
jointer cutters should the board not remain in tact.
I don't own a jointer, and I've never
used one.

But this has me curious. Pulling stock
through makes sense after a point. But
you have to get to that point where
there is some stock on the outfeed table.

I would assume that with a piece that's
4' long, you'd push from a safe distance
until you have enough wood on the
outfeed to be able to shift your grip
and pull from there.

Would that be a correct and safe way to
do it?

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks. I'm getting an idea on how this
works now. It may be a tool I use in the
future, and knowing that it requires
more of a "feel" for it than other tools
is valuable.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

Leon wrote:
"Twayne" wrote in message
news:9r3kj.12$pC5.0@trnddc05...

No. Your hands may be in front of the blade, but you're still
pushing.
Right again Charlie. It would be safer but would be an incorrect
method. You would indeed need to push from either location.
Wrong again Leon. You either misunderstand or are simply a contrary "me
too" type of dummy.

You said,

I would assume that with a piece that's
4' long, you'd push from a safe distance
until you have enough wood on the
outfeed to be able to shift your grip
and pull from there.



I'm the OP on this part of the thread,
but not the OP of the entire thread.


I did not clearly read what you had written. You indicated that you would
push the stock until enough wood was on the out feed surface and then shift
your grip and pull from there.

Yes, that's what I meant.

I replied Yes indicating that this would be a safe procedure visualizing you
switching to the out feed side of the jointer when the stock had begun to
pass to that side.

That is also what I was thinking.

Charlie pointed out that you would still push from both sides regardless of
which end of the jointer you were working over.

Here's where I'm losing both you and
Charlie.
I neglected to pick up on the key words you mentioned that were incorrect.
You indicated that when switching hand locations to the out feed side that
you would then pull, that is incorrect. You would continue to push the
stock on the out feed side.

OOOhhhhh....Ok. Place hands on the wood,
bearing down a bit, and pushing the
stock that is on the outfeed, rather
than pulling the already jointed end. Is
that right?

I indicated Right again to Charlie because Charlie is most often right and
he corrected my misunderstanding of what you had said.




--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 23:53:01 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

So now you know that's a magazine that's not worth reading. Neither the
writer nor the editor ought to be working there.

Anyone who has:

A.) Seen Glen's work...

-- or --

B.) Read any of the hundreds of other things he's written, including
his books...

Would know that even if you don't agree with everything he says, the
man has lots to offer.

The blog post is HIS singular opinion.

Said one bloated, bottom feeding idiot:

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:12:08 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

I just read an article by Glen D Huey of Popular Woodworking and he
advises not using push stick or pads when using ht jointer. He
advises to use rubber coated gloves.

So now you know that's a magazine that's not worth reading. Neither
the writer nor the editor ought to be working there.

More like, we know who's a closed minded fool you mean.

Brian Henderson wrote:
On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:32:23 GMT, B A R R Y
wrote:

However, I like hooks and blocks much better than sticks:

I was using 'pushstick' as a generic term for anything that replaces
your hand when pushing wood past a whirring, spinny, sharp thing. Use
whatever type you think is effective.


Blog Me! http://BitchSpot.JadeDragonOnline.com

No, go blog yourelf. If you had a brain you'd know better.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:28:52 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

Doesn't Maloof freehand on the bandsaw? That's an operation that
makes me shudder just thinking about it.

It's very hard to screw up on a bandsaw in a way that will take your
fingers off. I guess Maloof can afford to crimp a blade now and then.

True, if all you have is a toy bandsaw. You don't know your stump from
a hole in the ground, dingle-berry.

"Tanus" wrote in message ...

OOOhhhhh....Ok. Place hands on the wood, bearing down a bit, and pushing
the stock that is on the outfeed, rather than pulling the already jointed
end. Is that right?


Yes, you push the board all the way through the cycle. First from the in
feed end at the beginning of the pass and then as the stock goes over the
out feed end you move your hands to the out feed end and continue to push.
You do not want to push down hard, as you indicated bearing down a bit, if
you push down too hard and the board is warped you will end up removing
stock that does not need to be removed.

This is one machine that tends to be an acquired touch to get consistently
good results.

"Tanus" wrote in message ...


Thanks. I'm getting an idea on how this works now. It may be a tool I use
in the future, and knowing that it requires more of a "feel" for it than
other tools is valuable.



Good analysis! The machine for sure requires for you to learn the feel and
touch so keep in mind that practice makes perfect and you get better with it
over time.

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)" wrote in message
...

Anyone who has:

A.) Seen Glen's work...

-- or --

B.) Read any of the hundreds of other things he's written, including
his books...

Would know that even if you don't agree with everything he says, the
man has lots to offer.


Agreed, every one does something wrong. ;~)

On Jan 17, 10:07 am, (J T) wrote:
Thu, Jan 17, 2008, 3:12pm (EST+5) (Leon)
doth sayeth:
I just read an article by Glen D Huey of Popular Woodworking and he
advises not using push stick or pads when using ht jointer. snip

Well, you know,if stupid was a crime, half the population would be
in jain. Just a shame he's trying to convert people to being stupid
too. I'm with you, on edge no push stick (unless it's very narrow), and
push sticks and/or push pad otherwise.

A few weekends ago the TV was on DIY network or something like that
while I was eating lunch. I watched some "carpenter" cross cutting
using the rip fence as a guide. They even showed the cut piece get
thrown about 30 feet.

Way to educate!

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 03:06:50 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

If you had a brain you'd know better.

You're an idiot, but then again, everyone knows that.


Blog Me! http://BitchSpot.JadeDragonOnline.com

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 00:21:56 GMT, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
wrote:

Would know that even if you don't agree with everything he says, the
man has lots to offer.

So leave him in the workshop, but don't let him write for a mass
audience.

Printing that sort of advice in a magazine is going to cause other
people, of less "skill" than this guy, to lose fingers.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 22:35:08 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

Care to support that comment, keeping in mind 1 face of the board
should be flattened before the other is introduced to the thickness
planer?

Just throw 'em straight into the thicknesser. Anythign too warped to
come out was too warped to be much use anyway 8-)

If it's cupped then you can flatten it in the thickness planer if you
know what you're about, but if it's bowed or twisted going into the
thicknesser it will still be bowed or twisted coming out of the
thicknesser. For some purposes this is acceptable, for others it
isn't.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:12:08 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

I just read an article by Glen D Huey of Popular Woodworking and he
advises not using push stick or pads when using ht jointer. He
advises to use rubber coated gloves.

So now you know that's a magazine that's not worth reading. Neither
the writer nor the editor ought to be working there.

Well, if they keep using the jointer without push sticks but with
gloves then sooner or later neither of them will be able to type and
the problem will be solved evil grin.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Twayne wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:28:52 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

Doesn't Maloof freehand on the bandsaw? That's an operation that
makes me shudder just thinking about it.

It's very hard to screw up on a bandsaw in a way that will take
your
fingers off. I guess Maloof can afford to crimp a blade now and
then.

True, if all you have is a toy bandsaw. You don't know your stump
from a hole in the ground, dingle-berry.

OK, so explain to us how you are likely to hurt yourself freehanding
on a band saw, other than by running your hand into the blade.

And how do you do scrollwork on a band saw without freehanding? Or
are you not aware that that is a standard band saw operation that
would be taught in any training curriculum and is described in just
about any book you pick up about the band saw?

And if you're going to make fun of people's names, then consider that
yours easily goes to "twit" and "****".

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Leon wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message ...
OOOhhhhh....Ok. Place hands on the wood, bearing down a bit, and pushing
the stock that is on the outfeed, rather than pulling the already jointed
end. Is that right?


Yes, you push the board all the way through the cycle. First from the in
feed end at the beginning of the pass and then as the stock goes over the
out feed end you move your hands to the out feed end and continue to push.
You do not want to push down hard, as you indicated bearing down a bit, if
you push down too hard and the board is warped you will end up removing
stock that does not need to be removed.

This is one machine that tends to be an acquired touch to get consistently
good results.



Got it now. Finances and especially
space dictate that I won't be getting a
jointer any time soon, but if and when I
do, I'll certainly keep in mind that
it's a tool that has a bit of learning
curve.

Every tool I own does have one of
course. This sounds like it has a lot
more experimenting than most.

Thanks Leon. And Charlie.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

Twayne wrote:
Said one bloated, bottom feeding idiot:

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:12:08 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

I just read an article by Glen D Huey of Popular Woodworking and
he
advises not using push stick or pads when using ht jointer. He
advises to use rubber coated gloves.

So now you know that's a magazine that's not worth reading.
Neither
the writer nor the editor ought to be working there.

More like, we know who's a closed minded fool you mean.

Yes, I think we do, stumpy.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Tanus" wrote in message ...

Got it now. Finances and especially space dictate that I won't be getting
a jointer any time soon, but if and when I do, I'll certainly keep in mind
that it's a tool that has a bit of learning curve.

Every tool I own does have one of course. This sounds like it has a lot
more experimenting than most.

Thanks Leon. And Charlie.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

Keep in mind that I an not a big fan of the Jointer. It is the least used
machine in my shop although it's size is a lot of the problem. You can
flatten a board in a planer with the right sled/jig and you can very easily
straighten a board with the TS with the right jig/sled. IMHO the jointer is
not essential.

WARN Nameservers on separate class C's WARNING: All of your
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PASS All NS IPs public OK. All of your NS records appear to use
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Mailservers are expected by RFC2142 to accept mail to abuse.

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J. Clarke wrote:
Twayne wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:28:52 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

Doesn't Maloof freehand on the bandsaw? That's an operation that
makes me shudder just thinking about it.

It's very hard to screw up on a bandsaw in a way that will take
your
fingers off. I guess Maloof can afford to crimp a blade now and
then.

True, if all you have is a toy bandsaw. You don't know your stump
from a hole in the ground, dingle-berry.

OK, so explain to us how you are likely to hurt yourself freehanding
on a band saw, other than by running your hand into the blade.

And how do you do scrollwork on a band saw without freehanding? Or
are you not aware that that is a standard band saw operation that
would be taught in any training curriculum and is described in just
about any book you pick up about the band saw?

And if you're going to make fun of people's names, then consider that
yours easily goes to "twit" and "****".

--

That's what I figured; ignorance is bliss for you. So far. Too bad.
Also, there is no "us". And you're a dangerous fool.

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

WARN

You are an idiot.
(sixoneeight) = 618

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

What an oddly descriptive addy.

Truly a noob and a wannabe noob at that. Resorting to posting the
easily obtained by anyone and public whois information of a person who
he's trying to flame war with, as some sort of "wonder weapon" is a
sure sign of desparation and untenable position.

$100 says he speaks fluent 1337...or webtv.


Registrant Contact:

Brian Henderson )
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Administrative Contact:

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--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

"LRod" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

What an oddly descriptive addy.

Truly a noob and a wannabe noob at that. Resorting to posting the
easily obtained by anyone and public whois information of a person who
he's trying to flame war with, as some sort of "wonder weapon" is a
sure sign of desparation and untenable position.

$100 says he speaks fluent 1337...or webtv.

and a recent graduate from AOL.
....or maybe he didn't graduate...
--


"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

LRod took a can of maroon spray paint on January 19, 2008 02:15 pm and wrote
the following:

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

What an oddly descriptive addy.

Truly a noob and a wannabe noob at that. Resorting to posting the
easily obtained by anyone and public whois information of a person who
he's trying to flame war with, as some sort of "wonder weapon" is a
sure sign of desparation and untenable position.

$100 says he speaks fluent 1337...or webtv.

Hey now, you'll upset JOAT.
;-)

--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

WARN Nameservers on separate class C's WARNING: All of your
nameservers (listed at the parent nameservers) are in the same Class C
(technically, /24) address space, which means that they are probably at
the same physical location. Your nameservers should be at geographically
dispersed locations. You should not have all of your nameservers at the
same location. RFC2182 3.1 goes into more detail about secondary
nameserver location.
PASS All NS IPs public OK. All of your NS records appear to use
public IPs. If there were any private IPs, they would not be reachable,
causing DNS delays.
WARN TCP Allowed WARNING: One or more of your DNS servers does not
accept TCP connections. Although rarely used, TCP connections are
occasionally used instead of UDP connections. When firewalls block the
TCP DNS connections, it can cause hard-to-diagnose problems. The problem
servers a

64.14.72.90: Error [Connection refused (10061)]. 64.14.72.91:
Error [Connection refused (10061)].


WARN Acceptance of abuse address WARNING: One or more of your
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Mailservers are expected by RFC2142 to accept mail to abuse.

mail.jadedragononline.com's abuse response:br / RCPT
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WARN SPF record Your domain does not have an SPF record. This
means that spammers can easily send out E-mail that looks like it came
from your domain, which can make your domain look bad (if the recipient
thinks you really sent it), and can cost you money (when people complain
to you, rather than the spammer). You may want to add an SPF record
ASAP, as 01 Oct 2004 was the target date for domains to have SPF records
in place (Hotmail, for example, started checking SPF records on 01 Oct
2004).


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Having fun asshat? Go ahead, it's not like anyone with half a clue
couldn't have done the same thing.

Prick.


Blog Me! http://BitchSpot.JadeDragonOnline.com

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 19:15:44 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

What an oddly descriptive addy.

Truly a noob and a wannabe noob at that. Resorting to posting the
easily obtained by anyone and public whois information of a person who
he's trying to flame war with, as some sort of "wonder weapon" is a
sure sign of desparation and untenable position.

Especially since Brian H. is a frequent and respectable poster here.

On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:39:15 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

Agreed, every one does something wrong. ;~)


It happens!

Personally, I'd be afraid to post what he did. It works for him, but
he is completely aware and comfortable with the physics of the
operation.

Unfortunately, I just know somebody will get a glove stuck, and his
personal injury lawyer will be contacting Mr. Huey and the magazine.

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 11:43:33 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

Printing that sort of advice in a magazine is going to cause other
people, of less "skill" than this guy, to lose fingers.

I hear ya'.

Twayne wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Twayne wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:28:52 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

Doesn't Maloof freehand on the bandsaw? That's an operation
that
makes me shudder just thinking about it.

It's very hard to screw up on a bandsaw in a way that will take
your
fingers off. I guess Maloof can afford to crimp a blade now and
then.

True, if all you have is a toy bandsaw. You don't know your stump
from a hole in the ground, dingle-berry.

OK, so explain to us how you are likely to hurt yourself
freehanding
on a band saw, other than by running your hand into the blade.

And how do you do scrollwork on a band saw without freehanding? Or
are you not aware that that is a standard band saw operation that
would be taught in any training curriculum and is described in just
about any book you pick up about the band saw?

And if you're going to make fun of people's names, then consider
that
yours easily goes to "twit" and "****".

--

That's what I figured; ignorance is bliss for you. So far. Too
bad.
Also, there is no "us". And you're a dangerous fool.

Can't even tell me from Andy (hint--there's an ocean between us).

Oh, well, I gave you a chance, you don't deserve another.

plonk

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Spoken from true ignorance:

LRod wrote:
On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

What an oddly descriptive addy.

Truly a noob and a wannabe noob at that. Resorting to posting the
easily obtained by anyone and public whois information of a person who
he's trying to flame war with, as some sort of "wonder weapon" is a
sure sign of desparation and untenable position.

$100 says he speaks fluent 1337...or webtv.

Brian Henderson wrote:
On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

WARN Nameservers on separate class C's WARNING: All of your
nameservers (listed at the parent nameservers) are in the same Class
C (technically, /24) address space, which means that they are
probably at the same physical location. Your nameservers should be
at geographically dispersed locations. You should not have all of
your nameservers at the same location. RFC2182 3.1 goes into more
detail about secondary nameserver location.
PASS All NS IPs public OK. All of your NS records appear to use
public IPs. If there were any private IPs, they would not be
reachable, causing DNS delays.
WARN TCP Allowed WARNING: One or more of your DNS servers does
not accept TCP connections. Although rarely used, TCP connections are
occasionally used instead of UDP connections. When firewalls block
the TCP DNS connections, it can cause hard-to-diagnose problems. The
problem servers a

64.14.72.90: Error [Connection refused (10061)]. 64.14.72.91:
Error [Connection refused (10061)].


WARN Acceptance of abuse address WARNING: One or more of your
mailservers does not accept mail to .
Mailservers are expected by RFC2142 to accept mail to abuse.

mail.jadedragononline.com's abuse response:br / RCPT
br / 511 sorry, no mailbox here
by that name (#5.1.1 - chkuser) br /

WARN SPF record Your domain does not have an SPF record. This
means that spammers can easily send out E-mail that looks like it
came from your domain, which can make your domain look bad (if the
recipient thinks you really sent it), and can cost you money (when
people complain to you, rather than the spammer). You may want to
add an SPF record ASAP, as 01 Oct 2004 was the target date for
domains to have SPF records in place (Hotmail, for example, started
checking SPF records on 01 Oct 2004).


Using 0 day old cached answer (or, you can get fresh results).
Displaying E-mail address (use sparingly -- this will make it more
likely that you will trigger our rate limiting system).

=-=-=-=
Visit AboutUs.org for more information about JadeDragonOnline.com
a href="http://www.aboutus.org/JadeDragonOnline.com"AboutUs:
JadeDragonOnline.com/a

Registration Service Provided By: ICDSoft.com
Contact:
Visit: http://www.ICDSoft.com

Domain name: JadeDragonOnline.com

Registrant Contact:

Brian Henderson )
+1.9093072010
Fax: na
287 Alabama St.
na
Redlands, CA
US

Administrative Contact:

Brian Henderson )
+1.9093072010
Fax: na
287 Alabama St.
na
Redlands, CA
US

Technical Contact:

Brian Henderson )
+1.9093072010
Fax: na
287 Alabama St.
na
Redlands, CA
US

Status: Locked

Name Servers:
ns1.hoster909.com
ns2.hoster909.com

Creation date: 17 Apr 2004 00:40:56
Expiration date: 17 Apr 2008 00:40:56


64.14.72.90 PTR record: hoster909.com. [TTL 86400s] [A=64.14.72.90]

To see the reverse DNS traversal, to make sure that all DNS servers
are reporting the correct results, you can Click Here.


Having fun asshat? Go ahead, it's not like anyone with half a clue
couldn't have done the same thing.

Prick.


Blog Me! http://BitchSpot.JadeDragonOnline.com

Let's see YOU name where the info came from!

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
LRod took a can of maroon spray paint on January 19, 2008 02:15 pm and
wrote
the following:

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:47:28 GMT, "Twayne"
wrote:

What an oddly descriptive addy.

Truly a noob and a wannabe noob at that. Resorting to posting the
easily obtained by anyone and public whois information of a person who
he's trying to flame war with, as some sort of "wonder weapon" is a
sure sign of desparation and untenable position.

$100 says he speaks fluent 1337...or webtv.

Hey now, you'll upset JOAT.
;-)


Only if you email him...

--

-Mike-

"Twayne" wrote in message
news:AQpkj.2222$k15.671@trnddc06...
WARN

Wow. You're so cool.

--

-Mike-

"Swingman" wrote:

"Jeff" wrote

If humans were meant to face joint, they wouldn't have evolved the
capacity to make thickness planers...

... strictly for the benefit of those unsure of the difference between the
machines/operations.

Two machines/operations with very different purposes: one used to flatten an
edge or face (jointer); the other to mill opposite surfaces parallel
(planer).

A jointer won't necessarily mill opposite faces/edges parallel; and a planer
won't necessarily mill stock flat.

Both machines, used in conjunction, in a methodical manner, and in the
proper order (along with other tools like table saws/hand planes) will allow
a woodworker to mill straight, flat, and dimensioned, project stock from
rough lumber.

And to further confuse things, our English brethren have the right
(IMHO) names for these machines: A planer (Am. "jointer") creates a
surface or edge in a single plane, while a thicknesser (Am. "Planer")
creates a board of uniform thickness (NOT one in a single plane).
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

Jeff wrote:

On Jan 18, 8:17 am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Jeff" wrote

If humans were meant to face joint, they wouldn't have evolved the
capacity to make thickness planers...

... strictly for the benefit of those unsure of the difference between the
machines/operations.

Two machines/operations with very different purposes: one used to flatten an
edge or face (jointer); the other to mill opposite surfaces parallel
(planer).

A jointer won't necessarily mill opposite faces/edges parallel; and a planer
won't necessarily mill stock flat.

Both machines, used in conjunction, in a methodical manner, and in the
proper order (along with other tools like table saws/hand planes) will allow
a woodworker to mill straight, flat, and dimensioned, project stock from
rough lumber.


For flat parallel sides, I go from rough cut to planer, to jointer
(edge) to table saw (opposite edge).

Then you've never removed twist from a board.

Just for jollies, go to a big box and buy an 8' 2x8 with twist that
you can see. The follow your procedure on one 4' length of that board
with noticeable twist, until you are not able to discern any twist
with your winding sticks.

For comparison, face joint one face of the other board before
thicknessing the opposite face.

What are the thicknesses of the two resulting dressed, non-twisted
boards?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.