Hello all ...

I am new to this group(s) but have been woodworking for over 30 years
and am seeking advice about purchasing a new wood lathe

I used to work with old single speed ... stationary head ... 1.5 hp
Rockwell 12 inch lathe I realize how much I miss it

Info that may help with your advice

* My budget is about $1000 (for the lathe itself)

* I have searched Usenet looking for recent similar postings

* I have been to woodcraft and they advise the Jet VS Pro
(JWL-1442VSK)

* I have compared features ... but it has been so long since I have
worked with a wood lathe ... I really feel I need the
advice of professionals

* At present I have no particular project in mind ... but in the past
I have done things such as bowls ... pedestals ... table legs ... and
stair rails ... so I am looking for something sturdy and versatile

What features should I look for?

* 360 degree swivel headstock?

* Variable speed (how variable)?

* Reversible turning direction?

As to Lathe tools ... Like any cutting tool ... the better the
quality ... the longer the edge will hold ...

Any advice as to brand would also help here ... I personally use CASE
or Miller Falls wood chisels and find them both to be excellent

What is your advice as far as which tools to start out with?

I looked at the Sorby tools at Woodcraft and liked the heft of the
tool ... but the handles seem a bit cheap


Thanks for your time ... sorry for all the questions from a newbie ...

In article .com,
wrote:

* 360 degree swivel headstock?

180 degrees is more than enough, if any. 90 is more typical of the
swivel-heads. 0 is generally fine.

* Variable speed (how variable)?

Nice, but can be retrofitted, too.

What is your advice as far as which tools to start out with?

As usual, I'll suggest that the best bang for your buck will come from a
used unit. There is little to go wrong on a lathe.

The classified ads. If you have an "all classified ad paper/website",
that, too.

craigslist for your area (start at craigslist.org if you are not
familiar with it, find the one closest to you.

Any realtors you can find (they are often interested in getting large
tools out of houses before sale.)

Estate sales.

In most cases if the prior owner has either passed on or gotten out of
woodturning, the tools and accessories are either part of the package,
or available at quite reasonable cost if you ask.

Morbidly yours, with 2 big lathes that came from the estates of folks
who won't be needing them anymore. I expect that they would be happier
to have them being used than getting scrapped.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On Nov 4, 5:39 pm, Ecnerwal
wrote:
SNIP

Thanks for the advice ... I never thought of used

Any advice as to what to look for?

In article .com,
wrote:

Any advice as to what to look for?

Unless you are in a very lathe-rich area, start with what you can find.
Be aware of what the recent cheap Chinese versions look like, and some
of the various names they might be called, and what they can be had for
from Harbor Freight on sale. Whether or not you choose to buy one,
paying too much for it stinks if you do. Likewise with Sears (there's
someone local to me that's been trying to unload one at more-or-less
list price for months - either daft, or patiently waiting for a sucker.)

But if you have a choice, avoid them in favor of (generally older) North
American iron - Delta, Powermatic, General, Yates-American. There are
some nice british Myfords running about - not too common on this side of
the pond, but quite good. I personally have veered into much older, but
that may not be for everyone (3 of my lathes are more than 100, and
perhaps 125, years old - 2 FE Reed's and a Faye & Scott). Now, if
someone happens to be selling off a One-Way, and the price and condition
suit, buy it - but that's a much less common find, simply because they
are much newer.

Unless & until you know more than you presently do, avoid metal-working
lathes - they are set up somewhat differently than wood lathes, and
modifying one for woodturning is a project best engaged in when you have
a lot better idea of what you are trying to do.

If you find a lathe, typically from either a "serious" shop or a school
that has a 3-phase motor, don't panic. Do try to negotiate a lower
price. Then go buy a 1 phase in, 3 phase out VFD (Variable Frequency
Drive) for about $100-$200 - you get a lathe that has a nice variable
speed system, and you don't have to have the power company rewire your
house, or go find a new motor.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

wrote in message
oups.com...

* My budget is about $1000 (for the lathe itself)

A grand will get you (at least for a while) one of these.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20011 Have to say, as others
are bound to, that it's only the beginning. If you recal the definition of a
boat as a hole in the water into which you pour money, you'll get some idea
of what we mean.

* At present I have no particular project in mind ... but in the past
I have done things such as bowls ... pedestals ... table legs ... and
stair rails ... so I am looking for something sturdy and versatile

What features should I look for?

* 360 degree swivel headstock?


As mentioned, 90 is plenty. Anything else complicates things.

* Variable speed (how variable)?


You want good low end to keep your options open on out-of-balance stock.
How many speeds you want differs from how many you need.

* Reversible turning direction?

Why? Are you left-handed? Otherwise, you're into a lot of accomodation
like locking faceplates and such for "benefits" best described as marginal.



What is your advice as far as which tools to start out with?


M2 is the common alloy. Lots of sources. You can get other, more exotic
types for big bucks, but I'd rather have a wider assortment than a
million-dollar baby.

I looked at the Sorby tools at Woodcraft and liked the heft of the
tool ... but the handles seem a bit cheap


I like the Sorby handles all right, though the Crown/Hamlet/Taylor round
end handles are my favorites. When I make handles for unhandled tools, they
generally look like the Crown. Start with a set and learn enough to be able
to make decisions as to which tool you need next. Even the same name won't
get you the same contour between manufacturers.

Use every tool you can beg or borrow from other turners to see what you
think. Can't buy 'em all, and sometimes you end up jointing with a Jack and
rabbeting with a shoulder plane, if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your time ... sorry for all the questions from a newbie ...


It's only the beginning.

Here are a couple of thoughts about lathes in general and mine in
particular. They may give you a few insights.
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/woodtu...glathes01.html
As for tools, I make a lot of mine. I have been making Shristmas ornaments
lately and all the lathe tools I have used for those come from the shop.
While other opinions vary, I suggest a beginner get a beginner's set and get
used to the tools there. I still have tools from my first set, now over 10
years old, and use them. Some have different grinds now but they are still
used.
Make or buy a sharpening jig. Wood turning is the weirdo of crafts. In order
to learn to turn you MUST learn to sharpen. The jig will give you a huge
boost. Mine (not for sale, just to copy or remake) is over he
http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening01.html
Hope it helps.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"George" wrote in message
. net...

wrote in message
oups.com...

* My budget is about $1000 (for the lathe itself)

A grand will get you (at least for a while) one of these.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20011 Have to say, as
others are bound to, that it's only the beginning. If you recal the
definition of a boat as a hole in the water into which you pour money,
you'll get some idea of what we mean.

* At present I have no particular project in mind ... but in the past
I have done things such as bowls ... pedestals ... table legs ... and
stair rails ... so I am looking for something sturdy and versatile

What features should I look for?

* 360 degree swivel headstock?


As mentioned, 90 is plenty. Anything else complicates things.

* Variable speed (how variable)?


You want good low end to keep your options open on out-of-balance stock.
How many speeds you want differs from how many you need.

* Reversible turning direction?

Why? Are you left-handed? Otherwise, you're into a lot of accomodation
like locking faceplates and such for "benefits" best described as
marginal.



What is your advice as far as which tools to start out with?


M2 is the common alloy. Lots of sources. You can get other, more exotic
types for big bucks, but I'd rather have a wider assortment than a
million-dollar baby.

I looked at the Sorby tools at Woodcraft and liked the heft of the
tool ... but the handles seem a bit cheap


I like the Sorby handles all right, though the Crown/Hamlet/Taylor round
end handles are my favorites. When I make handles for unhandled tools,
they generally look like the Crown. Start with a set and learn enough to
be able to make decisions as to which tool you need next. Even the same
name won't get you the same contour between manufacturers.

Use every tool you can beg or borrow from other turners to see what you
think. Can't buy 'em all, and sometimes you end up jointing with a Jack
and rabbeting with a shoulder plane, if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your time ... sorry for all the questions from a newbie ...


It's only the beginning.

Just a couple tips on the used lathes.

Grab the spindle and try to move it up and down and left and right.
There should be zero play. If there is, bearings may be shot.

Turn on the lathe and listen. Any odd sounds coming from the motor or
the spindle?

If it has a rotating head stock, rotate it 90 degrees and lock in
place. Turn on the lathe and again listen.

Rotate the lathe back. Put a drive spur in the headstock and a live
center in the tailstock. Run the tailstock up to the headstock. Do
the points of the spur drive and live center meet or are they off a
bit?

Run through all the available speeds with the lathe on (if possible.)
Some lathes require that you move the belts with the lathe off. Does
the lathe run smooth in all speeds?


On Nov 4, 8:19 pm, wrote:
Hello all ...

I am new to this group(s) but have been woodworking for over 30 years
and am seeking advice about purchasing a new wood lathe

I used to work with old single speed ... stationary head ... 1.5 hp
Rockwell 12 inch lathe I realize how much I miss it

Info that may help with your advice

* My budget is about $1000 (for the lathe itself)

* I have searched Usenet looking for recent similar postings

* I have been to woodcraft and they advise the Jet VS Pro
(JWL-1442VSK)

* I have compared features ... but it has been so long since I have
worked with a wood lathe ... I really feel I need the
advice of professionals

* At present I have no particular project in mind ... but in the past
I have done things such as bowls ... pedestals ... table legs ... and
stair rails ... so I am looking for something sturdy and versatile

What features should I look for?

* 360 degree swivel headstock?

* Variable speed (how variable)?

* Reversible turning direction?

As to Lathe tools ... Like any cutting tool ... the better the
quality ... the longer the edge will hold ...

Any advice as to brand would also help here ... I personally use CASE
or Miller Falls wood chisels and find them both to be excellent

What is your advice as far as which tools to start out with?

I looked at the Sorby tools at Woodcraft and liked the heft of the
tool ... but the handles seem a bit cheap

Thanks for your time ... sorry for all the questions from a newbie ...

I have had my Jet 1442 from Woodcraft for about 10 months and am very
satisfied with it. Cost a little less than $900. One very important
recommendation---If you get the Jet make sure they furnish the nylon washer
that goes between the shaft and a faceplate or chuck. If you use the lathe
without it, you will have problems removing those items without damaging the
internal pulley. Other than that it has served me well. As far as tools, I
was pretty well equipped because I had been turning bowls for over 10 years
on my Shopsmith. Just make certain that you get HSS tools. Mid-priced ones
are fine for a starter (Crown or Pinnacle, etc.)

Bob

ALL

Thanks much for the advice ... Hope you dont mind a few more
questions / bits of info

INFO

* I did a good bit of turning back in the late 70-mid 80's ... so I am
not a complete newbie ... but am just looking for what technology
changes have occured that I can take advantage of ... now that I have
a larger budget

* I tried craigslist (use it all the time here in Colorado
Springs) ... most of the stuff were shopsmith (which I tend to
avoid) ... there was one really old (1950ish) Powermatic that looked
in sad shape ... I even tried the want adds ... which had none for
sale

* Now that I am making enough to purchase decent quality tools ... I
tend to purchase new (which isnt always better) ... but if used isnt
available I have to resort to new

QUESTIONS:

* Why should I consider the Nova ( http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20011
) over the Jet ( http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5225
) ?

* With regard to "As mentioned, 90 is plenty. Anything else
complicates things." can you elaborate on this? ... as it seems all
units now have 360 ...
personally I dont see much use for more than 90 ... or
even 45 ... from my experience

COMMENTS:

Kevin (my name as well) ... thanks for the 'kick the tires' primer on
lathes ... it is always good to know what to look for when buying
used

Ecnerwal - I live 1 block from a Harbor Freight ... and I use it
often ... but never for power tools from past experiences with Chicago
Machinery ... they just dont last ... wore out the bearings and
fittings on my variable speed drill press ... replaced it with a Delta
Industrial ... Wore out the slide mechanism on my 10 inch sliding chop
saw ... replaced it with a Delta 12 inch ... I wont even mention 18V
cordless drills

Darrell - thanks much for the primer and sharpening tips ... I used to
do my own sharpening ... but have lost the skills ... hopefully this
will help bring them back
I was going to pull out the 3 grades of Smiths stones
I use for all my blades

QUESTIONS:

* Why should I consider the Nova (
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20011
) over the Jet ( http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5225
) ?

The Nova has a a lower min RPM and a larger swing over the bed.

The Jet has a larger capacity between centers (you can get extension beds
for both) and is quite a bit heavier if you get the cast iron legs.

* With regard to "As mentioned, 90 is plenty. Anything else
complicates things." can you elaborate on this? ... as it seems all
units now have 360 ...
personally I dont see much use for more than 90 ... or
even 45 ... from my experience

I think headstocks either rotate or they don't. The 90 vs 45 vs 360 is a
non-issue. I don't think I have ever been past 90 on my 1442 (with which, I
have been very happy). I rotate the headstock often. It allows me to get a
more comfortable stance. That said, most, if not all higher end (pro) lathes
do not have a rotating headstock, and the pros get along just fine.

I have never touched the Nova. Had it been available when I was buying, I
would have looked seriously at that model. FWW liked it in a recent review.

-Steve




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

wrote in message
ups.com...
QUESTIONS:

* Why should I consider the Nova (
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20011
) over the Jet ( http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5225
) ?

Note the 450 low speed on the JET. Can get a bit dicey if you've got an
unbalanced design in mind or you've cut a piece of green wood that's been
laying on the ground wrong, dividing it into two half-dry half-soaked pieces
instead of one of each. At 180 rpm you can turn some strange stuff if
you've the patience, and at 360 you're still well below the 450 on the JET.
You also get the 2" extra swing with the possibility of tail support, a real
boon. The cheaper versions of the Reeves drives have some problems you
never encountered with the old-style monster Reeves types. Lot of
possibilities for misalignment and oddball stresses.

http://www.teknatool.com/products/La... pril%2007.pdf
Is a pretty good writeup.


* With regard to "As mentioned, 90 is plenty. Anything else
complicates things." can you elaborate on this? ... as it seems all
units now have 360 ...
personally I dont see much use for more than 90 ... or
even 45 ... from my experience

Anything more than 90 would be to avoid moving the lathe, as all quadrants
are more or less equal. Turning without a tail support would allow you
larger pieces, but you certainly want to look much harder at low speeds if
you're planning 20" stuff. Faceplates, too!

COMMENTS:


I turned for years on a 46-204 Delta, a cast-iron monster with a low speed
of ~600. It was a pucker factor eight or above on some pieces, I can tell
you that. Especially outboard (180 degrees) with the left-hand threaded
faceplates and chuck. Now I'm on my third year as second owner of a Nova
3000, the predecessor of the 1624 44. Several hundred pieces later, I'm
happy to say he's doing just fine. I too lusted after "Big Arn," but
decided to take a fling with this guy at an attractive price. Got it from a
guy who wanted ALL the bells and whistles, who was replacing it with a
Oneway. Not sure how he's doing with it, but I know the one I got from him
turned a lot better after I aligned and snugged things in accordance with
the directions. Bet he still thinks he sold me a dog! Paid off the
purchase price at the first show where I was able to offer 15"+ salad bowls
at premium prices.

You asked about the difference between the Jet and the Nova. As you
may be adding to your collection of tools (nay may but WILL be
adding) it's a good idea to think about the spindle threads, at least
for the moment. I have a Jet 12-36 and it has a 1 X 8 spindle
thread. Inserts for my chucks are readily available in that size. I
am uncertain of the easy availability of inserts in the 1.25 X 8 size
on the Nova. Just another datum to add to your growing list.


On Nov 5, 11:04 am, wrote:
ALL

Thanks much for the advice ... Hope you dont mind a few more
questions / bits of info

INFO

* I did a good bit of turning back in the late 70-mid 80's ... so I am
not a complete newbie ... but am just looking for what technology
changes have occured that I can take advantage of ... now that I have
a larger budget

* I tried craigslist (use it all the time here in Colorado
Springs) ... most of the stuff were shopsmith (which I tend to
avoid) ... there was one really old (1950ish) Powermatic that looked
in sad shape ... I even tried the want adds ... which had none for
sale

* Now that I am making enough to purchase decent quality tools ... I
tend to purchase new (which isnt always better) ... but if used isnt
available I have to resort to new

QUESTIONS:

* Why should I consider the Nova (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20011
) over the Jet (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5225
) ?

* With regard to "As mentioned, 90 is plenty. Anything else
complicates things." can you elaborate on this? ... as it seems all
units now have 360 ...
personally I dont see much use for more than 90 ... or
even 45 ... from my experience

COMMENTS:

Kevin (my name as well) ... thanks for the 'kick the tires' primer on
lathes ... it is always good to know what to look for when buying
used

Ecnerwal - I live 1 block from a Harbor Freight ... and I use it
often ... but never for power tools from past experiences with Chicago
Machinery ... they just dont last ... wore out the bearings and
fittings on my variable speed drill press ... replaced it with a Delta
Industrial ... Wore out the slide mechanism on my 10 inch sliding chop
saw ... replaced it with a Delta 12 inch ... I wont even mention 18V
cordless drills

Darrell - thanks much for the primer and sharpening tips ... I used to
do my own sharpening ... but have lost the skills ... hopefully this
will help bring them back
I was going to pull out the 3 grades of Smiths stones
I use for all my blades

In article . com,
wrote:

* I tried craigslist (use it all the time here in Colorado
Springs) ... most of the stuff were shopsmith (which I tend to
avoid) ... there was one really old (1950ish) Powermatic that looked
in sad shape ... I even tried the want adds ... which had none for
sale

Well, this week, or today - sometimes patience pays off. If you have to
have it now, dealers (new, and probably also used) await you.

I'd look at the Powermatic in person, if I were you (perhaps you did,
not clear). Depending on price, an old Powermatic and a new set of
spindle bearings (if needed) might be a very good investment. (Just
looked - price somewhat high, but condition looks good to me in the
pictures. Don't expect shiny paint and no rust in 50 year old tooling).
That will be a very solidly built lathe - much moreso than anything in
that price range from the last 20 years. A small amount of rust on the
ways is not a problem - some folks end up piling wet oak shavings on
their shiny new lathes for a few hours to get enough traction that the
tailstock stays put. If not severely worn and dinged up it would be a
good value, though not a low-price gloat. It is three-phase, so budget
in a VFD, and you'll have electronic variable speed and reversing
ability.

* With regard to "As mentioned, 90 is plenty. Anything else
complicates things." can you elaborate on this? ... as it seems all
units now have 360 ...
personally I dont see much use for more than 90 ... or
even 45 ... from my experience

Swiveling is a way to put stuff "outboard" without putting it on the
back of the spindle. Allows turning slightly larger bowls than is
possible over the bed, and means the bed is not in your way. 90 degrees
is about as far as is useful - you're looking straight into the bowl as
you face the lathe. Going further, at 180 you have the bowl at the back
of the lathe, in the traditional outboard position (but with no more
access than you had at 90), and then (270) the bowl behind the lathe,
which is utterly useless, as far as I can tell.

Being used to the bed being there, I'm not bothered much by it, so
non-swiveling works fine by me. I gravitate towards plenty of room over
the bed to turn what I want to turn when shopping, though I do have a
2-1/2 inch outboard spindle that will swing over 6 feet on the Faye and
Scott. Given 20 inch inboard capacity, I have not used it so far,
particularly since I need to machine a custom LH faceplate for the old
non-standard large spindle. But it offers some possibilities in round
tabletop production...

I think the best outboard setup is what (so I understand) One-Way uses -
the outboard end of the spindle is also right-hand-thread, and the motor
reverses.

Ecnerwal - I live 1 block from a Harbor Freight ... and I use it
often ... but never for power tools from past experiences with Chicago
Machinery ... they just dont last

While some folks claim to be happy with them, I was more suggesting that
you be aware of what you were looking at when you went shopping than
suggesting that you buy one - though a Horrible Fright lathe beats none
at all. When cheap enough, it can be a handy way to get a cheesy machine
to dedicate to buffing, or the like, if you have space for that - keeps
the main one free for turning.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

WOW ... what response ... this is a great set of group

So ... if purchasing new ... it seems to come down to a choice
between

Nova ( http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20011

And the

Jet ( http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5225

Any other candidates?


Regarding the Nova vs Jet

From my experience ... heavier is more stable ... and as I have
all of my tools (with the exceptions of a POS Craftsman radial saw) on
wheels ... weight is
not really a factor ... other than moving it from the
curb

I did notice the notice the difference between the 215/3630 rpm
(Nova) ... vs the 450/3000 rpm of the Jet ...

What about the HP difference ... 1.5 hp (Nova) vs 1 hp (Jet)?

Has anyone heard of durability of Nova's? ... I know and trust Jet
for sturdy durable tools

At present I am leaning towards the Jet ... if for no other reason
than the stability ... and known durability ... but that lower low and
higher high of the Nova are quite attractive

As for purchasing used ... I will have to see what comes along ... as
this is a actually my Christmas present from my dad ... so this
isnt an IF ... it is a WHEN

In article . com,
wrote:

I did notice the notice the difference between the 215/3630 rpm
(Nova) ... vs the 450/3000 rpm of the Jet ...

That's a huge factor if you're not turning square-dry blanks. Low speed
is good for dealing with rough blanks.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

That's a huge factor if you're not turning square-dry blanks. Low speed
is good for dealing with rough blanks.

Yea ... which I used to do a good bit ... start with a 4 X 4 (for legs
etc)

wrote in message
ups.com...

Regarding the Nova vs Jet

From my experience ... heavier is more stable ... and as I have
all of my tools (with the exceptions of a POS Craftsman radial saw) on
wheels ... weight is
not really a factor ... other than moving it from the
curb

You probably noticed that each of the lathes in question is bolted to the
stand. Makes it pretty much moot what the particular stand weighs, because
you can bolt more weight to it, even up to the "big one" - mother earth.
Some people even build their own stand to better fit their shop. Red
herring.

Rigidity is a virtue. Don't want that turning flopping around relative to
the lathe, or the spindle of the lathe relative to the bed, or the toolrest
relative to any.... The important thing.


I did notice the notice the difference between the 215/3630 rpm
(Nova) ... vs the 450/3000 rpm of the Jet ...

What about the HP difference ... 1.5 hp (Nova) vs 1 hp (Jet)?

The HP is nearly as red a herring as the weight. You only need enough to
take off a shaving, right? And you, at much less than 1 HP can turn the
piece on its bearings, so the rest is potential harm to you.



Has anyone heard of durability of Nova's? ... I know and trust Jet
for sturdy durable tools


As I say, mine's got a bunch of hours on it, and I don't baby it. But I
don't hack wood, either. Those who do will likely have different things to
say about any two lathes.
At present I am leaning towards the Jet ... if for no other reason
than the stability ... and known durability ... but that lower low and
higher high of the Nova are quite attractive

As for purchasing used ... I will have to see what comes along ... as
this is a actually my Christmas present from my dad ... so this
isnt an IF ... it is a WHEN

"George" wrote in message
. net...

Just remembered another thing I've come to love about the Nova - the offset
toolrest. That extra inch or so of leverage a centered post requires you
give to a tool can be a real problem, especially if you're cutting at high
speeds!

No, not really. You're comming at it from a spinde point of view. 450RPM is
plenty slow for a 4x4 between centers. It's the 10-14" diameter bowl blank
of green wood that gets scary


Yea ... which I used to do a good bit ... start with a 4 X 4 (for legs
etc)



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Thanks again George

Ok ... so weight and HP should really be out of the picture

How do you feel about the belt changing vs the Reeves?

Do you think the Nova can be put on wheels? (vs a mobile base) ... as
the Jet can?

On Nov 5, 11:35 am, "Stephen M"
wrote:
No, not really. You're comming at it from a spinde point of view. 450RPM is
plenty slow for a 4x4 between centers. It's the 10-14" diameter bowl blank
of green wood that gets scary

Yikes ... yea ... I can imagine that would be scary

BTW ... I did find http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...Number=2812491
.... which discusses the 2 models in question ... and there are of
course pro's and cons to each ... I was hoping for more choices within
the price range ... but it seems there really arent any ... even
Grizzly doenst have something comparable until about $1300

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 01:19:37 -0000, wrote:

Hello all ...

I am new to this group(s) but have been woodworking for over 30 years
and am seeking advice about purchasing a new wood lathe

I used to work with old single speed ... stationary head ... 1.5 hp
Rockwell 12 inch lathe I realize how much I miss it

Info that may help with your advice

* My budget is about $1000 (for the lathe itself)


That's not very much $. You might try for something used. My lathe
is the most expensive machine in my shop (just under $5000). Just the
cast iron legs alone were $900, and that was 10 years ago. You can
make your own hollow legs and fill with sand.


* I have searched Usenet looking for recent similar postings

* I have been to woodcraft and they advise the Jet VS Pro
(JWL-1442VSK)

* I have compared features ... but it has been so long since I have
worked with a wood lathe ... I really feel I need the
advice of professionals

* At present I have no particular project in mind ... but in the past
I have done things such as bowls ... pedestals ... table legs ... and
stair rails ... so I am looking for something sturdy and versatile

What features should I look for?

Length is probably one important characteristic.
Heavy is good.
220v is better than 120v.
Serviceable/replacement parts


* 360 degree swivel headstock?

Nice to have. I don't have a swivel headstock.


* Variable speed (how variable)?

I have variable speed. It adds to the cost but is a very nice
feature. To keep costs low you may have to go with a stepped pulley
arrangement.


* Reversible turning direction?

Reversible is nice to get a nice smooth finish. I wired-in a reverse
switch and saved $100.


As to Lathe tools ... Like any cutting tool ... the better the
quality ... the longer the edge will hold ...

Any advice as to brand would also help here ... I personally use CASE
or Miller Falls wood chisels and find them both to be excellent

What is your advice as far as which tools to start out with?

large gouge
bowl or small gouge
parting tool
skew
various scrapers



I looked at the Sorby tools at Woodcraft and liked the heft of the
tool ... but the handles seem a bit cheap

Sorby is very good. I have no complaints about their handles. A
starter set of quality turning tools might run about $600. You will
also need sharpening stones and tools.



Thanks for your time ... sorry for all the questions from a newbie ...

Made in USA. Canada is good too. No China tools!

You don't say where you are located and your $1,000 will not cover
this, but I just received an advertisement from a fellow in Bodega
Bay, California who is wanting to sell his entire shop for $3500. He
has two lathes (one a Nova) several Nova chucks, turning tools,
bandsaw, grinder, dust collector system, compressor, many calipers and
a heavy duty drill press all for the $3,500. Sounds lika a good buy
for someone wanting to get into turning. If you're interested, e-mail
me and I'll send you his contact information.

Fred Holder
htto://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/woodturn.htm

On Nov 4, 5:19 pm, wrote:
Hello all ...

I am new to this group(s) but have been woodworking for over 30 years
and am seeking advice about purchasing a new wood lathe

I used to work with old single speed ... stationary head ... 1.5 hp
Rockwell 12 inch lathe I realize how much I miss it

Info that may help with your advice

* My budget is about $1000 (for the lathe itself)

* I have searched Usenet looking for recent similar postings

* I have been to woodcraft and they advise the Jet VS Pro
(JWL-1442VSK)

* I have compared features ... but it has been so long since I have
worked with a wood lathe ... I really feel I need the
advice of professionals

* At present I have no particular project in mind ... but in the past
I have done things such as bowls ... pedestals ... table legs ... and
stair rails ... so I am looking for something sturdy and versatile

What features should I look for?

* 360 degree swivel headstock?

* Variable speed (how variable)?

* Reversible turning direction?

As to Lathe tools ... Like any cutting tool ... the better the
quality ... the longer the edge will hold ...

Any advice as to brand would also help here ... I personally use CASE
or Miller Falls wood chisels and find them both to be excellent

What is your advice as far as which tools to start out with?

I looked at the Sorby tools at Woodcraft and liked the heft of the
tool ... but the handles seem a bit cheap

Thanks for your time ... sorry for all the questions from a newbie ...

In article .com,
wrote:

That's a huge factor if you're not turning square-dry blanks. Low speed
is good for dealing with rough blanks.

Yea ... which I used to do a good bit ... start with a 4 X 4 (for legs
etc)

In that case, the Nova wins. As you can keep extending the length. I've
see a 5 ft bed on a Nova 3000 (basicly the earlier version of the one
you are considering)

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

Yea ... which I used to do a good bit ... start with a 4 X 4 (for legs
etc)

In that case, the Nova wins. As you can keep extending the length. I've
see a 5 ft bed on a Nova 3000 (basicly the earlier version of the one
you are considering)


Extension beds are available for the Jet. I don't know if you can add
multiples theough :-)

From: http://www.southern-tool.com/store/j...442_lathe.html

WMH708347
$493.12
"BE-57L, Full 57"" Bed Extension with Leg ----


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

ALL

Thanks much for the advice ... Hope you dont mind a few more
questions / bits of info

INFO

* I did a good bit of turning back in the late 70-mid 80's ... so I am
not a complete newbie ... but am just looking for what technology
changes have occured that I can take advantage of ... now that I have
a larger budget

* I tried craigslist (use it all the time here in Colorado
Springs) ... most of the stuff were shopsmith (which I tend to
avoid) ... there was one really old (1950ish) Powermatic that looked
in sad shape ... I even tried the want adds ... which had none for
sale

* Now that I am making enough to purchase decent quality tools ... I
tend to purchase new (which isnt always better) ... but if used isnt
available I have to resort to new

QUESTIONS:

* Why should I consider the Nova ( http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20011
) over the Jet ( http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5225
) ?

* With regard to "As mentioned, 90 is plenty. Anything else
complicates things." can you elaborate on this? ... as it seems all
units now have 360 ...
personally I dont see much use for more than 90 ... or
even 45 ... from my experience

COMMENTS:

Kevin (my name as well) ... thanks for the 'kick the tires' primer on
lathes ... it is always good to know what to look for when buying
used

Ecnerwal - I live 1 block from a Harbor Freight ... and I use it
often ... but never for power tools from past experiences with Chicago
Machinery ... they just dont last ... wore out the bearings and
fittings on my variable speed drill press ... replaced it with a Delta
Industrial ... Wore out the slide mechanism on my 10 inch sliding chop
saw ... replaced it with a Delta 12 inch ... I wont even mention 18V
cordless drills

Darrell - thanks much for the primer and sharpening tips ... I used to
do my own sharpening ... but have lost the skills ... hopefully this
will help bring them back
I was going to pull out the 3 grades of Smiths stones
I use for all my blades

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 20:28:30 -0800, Fred Holder
wrote:

You don't say where you are located and your $1,000 will not cover
this, but I just received an advertisement from a fellow in Bodega
Bay, California who is wanting to sell his entire shop for $3500. He
has two lathes (one a Nova) several Nova chucks, turning tools,
bandsaw, grinder, dust collector system, compressor, many calipers and
a heavy duty drill press all for the $3,500. Sounds lika a good buy
for someone wanting to get into turning. If you're interested, e-mail
me and I'll send you his contact information.


That sounds like a very good deal for someone starting out, especially
for name-brand (non China) machines.

You've gotten tons of advice, just one more thing.

Leave enuf money in your budget to get a good scroll chuck. They
ought to sell lathes with those in place, they are so handy. I turned
for two year using faceplates and glue blocks, and when I finally got
a chuck, the light went on.

BTW, I'm using a Jet 1442 with the reeve's drive, and have made a LOT
of shavings with it. I'm happy with it, but will buy another one when
I win the lottery.

Old Guy


On Nov 4, 7:19 pm, wrote:
Hello all ...

I am new to this group(s) but have been woodworking for over 30 years
and am seeking advice about purchasing a new wood lathe

I used to work with old single speed ... stationary head ... 1.5 hp
Rockwell 12 inch lathe I realize how much I miss it

Info that may help with your advice

* My budget is about $1000 (for the lathe itself)

* I have searched Usenet looking for recent similar postings

* I have been to woodcraft and they advise the Jet VS Pro
(JWL-1442VSK)

* I have compared features ... but it has been so long since I have
worked with a wood lathe ... I really feel I need the
advice of professionals

* At present I have no particular project in mind ... but in the past
I have done things such as bowls ... pedestals ... table legs ... and
stair rails ... so I am looking for something sturdy and versatile

What features should I look for?

* 360 degree swivel headstock?

* Variable speed (how variable)?

* Reversible turning direction?

As to Lathe tools ... Like any cutting tool ... the better the
quality ... the longer the edge will hold ...

Any advice as to brand would also help here ... I personally use CASE
or Miller Falls wood chisels and find them both to be excellent

What is your advice as far as which tools to start out with?

I looked at the Sorby tools at Woodcraft and liked the heft of the
tool ... but the handles seem a bit cheap

Thanks for your time ... sorry for all the questions from a newbie ...

Sorry for the delay ... was delayed by an emergency at work

No Way, Ecnerwal & Nailshooter41 - Thank you ... you have set my mind
at ease with regards to the bed extension for the Nova

Fred - Sorry I was not clear ... earlier I said I was in Colorado
Springs ... yes that does sound like a bargain

Mac - Thanks for the advice about the turners meeting ...

Any thoughts about the

Jet 1642EVS-2 http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=60031

or the

Jet 1642EVS http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5433

In article .com,
wrote:

Sorry for the delay ... was delayed by an emergency at work

No Way, Ecnerwal & Nailshooter41 - Thank you ... you have set my mind
at ease with regards to the bed extension for the Nova

Fred - Sorry I was not clear ... earlier I said I was in Colorado
Springs ... yes that does sound like a bargain

Mac - Thanks for the advice about the turners meeting ...

Any thoughts about the

Jet 1642EVS-2 http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=60031

or the

Jet 1642EVS http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5433

Both are good choices, I looked that them real hard before buying the
Nova DVR-XP. When I hit a deal on the Nova I went that way

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 01:19:37 -0000, wrote:

Hello all ...

I am new to this group(s) but have been woodworking for over 30 years
and am seeking advice about purchasing a new wood lathe

[...snip...]
Fine Woodworking May/June 2007 had a review of lathes. The author
liked the Jet you have been considering, but picked the Nova 1624 as
best value. The award went to a Powermatic at $3200, probably out of
your price range.

He recommends adding ballast to stabilize the Nova.

Thank you all for the helpful and friendly advice

I thought it would be best to actually do some work on the
machines ... so I went to Woodcraft ... of course ...

Didnt get to work with the Nova ... but the Powermatic with the DC
motor they have ... according to Woodcraft ... performs like the
DVR ... but is MUCH more stable ... and has a longer bet

So I tested the JET EVS and decided to go with this ... as I really
like the variable speed all the way down to 0

I just made the purchase ... now 2 weeks to wait for pickup at
Woodcraft

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5433

Thanks again to everyone