I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.

I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
made the right decision.

I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.

The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
the miter. Am I correct in this thought?

I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
to purchase something else?

Thanks!

took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22,
2007 04:07 pm and wrote the following:

I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.

I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
made the right decision.

I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.

The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
the miter. Am I correct in this thought?

I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
to purchase something else?

Thanks!

Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put down
a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90 degrees,
never mind at 45, I just used a circular saw and a jig saw for some of the
odd cuts..

Just posted a picture in abpw, before reading this post, it does show the
flooring.
--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.

Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 8:16pm (EDT+4) (FrozenNorth)
pointed his maroon spray paint wrong, sprayed himself in the face, then
said:
Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
down a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90
degrees, never mind at 45, snip

Hehehe I got a new, $70, Harbor Freight 10" miter saw awhile
back. Some think they're low quality; however, it zips thru oak
flooring, any angle, no sweat. You got a carbide tip blade in your saw?
My saw came with one.



JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."

J T took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22, 2007 05:11 pm and wrote
the following:

Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 8:16pm (EDT+4) (FrozenNorth)
pointed his maroon spray paint wrong, sprayed himself in the face, then
said:
Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
down a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90
degrees, never mind at 45, snip

Hehehe I got a new, $70, Harbor Freight 10" miter saw awhile
back. Some think they're low quality; however, it zips thru oak
flooring, any angle, no sweat. You got a carbide tip blade in your saw?
My saw came with one.

Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS won't
cut that wide.
--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.

So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do better
with the 12" for $80 more?

On Oct 22, 3:16 pm, FrozenNorth wrote:
took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22,
2007 04:07 pm and wrote the following:





I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.

I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
made the right decision.

I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.

The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
the miter. Am I correct in this thought?

I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
to purchase something else?

Thanks!

Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
down
a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90 degrees,
never mind at 45, I just used a circular saw and a jig saw for some of the
odd cuts..

Just posted a picture in abpw, before reading this post, it does show the
flooring.

quote emailed message
How wide were the planks that you were cutting? Do you wish you got
the 12" Miter instead?

BTW - I am unaware of abpw. Could you give me a link?
/unquote

Please respond to the group, not via email, unless you may think you know
me.

8" wide boards, my 10" CMS will cut to about 7 1/2, or a bit more, i.e it
will cut a 2x6, but fails on a 2x8, I just bring out my circular saw for
those cuts.

alt.binaries,pictures.woodworking, I notice you are a google groups poster,
you will not be able to find it, you will need a real usenet account.

--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.

On Oct 22, 4:37 pm, FrozenNorth wrote:
On Oct 22, 3:16 pm, FrozenNorth wrote:





took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22,
2007 04:07 pm and wrote the following:

I am planning on putting in some laminate flooring very soon and also
needed something to do some cuts for building some shelving. I am
planning on putting in the DuPont laminate flooring.

I am just starting to build my collection of power tools (YEAH!). So I
thought I would ask the experts their opinion as to whether or not I
made the right decision.

I bought a Ridged 10" Compound Miter saw.

The decision for this is that for one the guy at HD said that the 10"
Miter would be enough to cut the flooring.
Second, I am doing 45 degree cuts and was looking for some accuracy. I
thought about a table saw, but felt that I would get better cuts with
the miter. Am I correct in this thought?

I have a feeling the Miter may not be enough for the flooring, am I
right? Is there an "All-In-One" tool that would be better for the
flooring, or was I right in purchasing the miter, but I will also have
to purchase something else?

Thanks!

Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
down
a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90 degrees,
never mind at 45, I just used a circular saw and a jig saw for some of the
odd cuts..

Just posted a picture in abpw, before reading this post, it does show the
flooring.

quote emailed message
How wide were the planks that you were cutting? Do you wish you got
the 12" Miter instead?

BTW - I am unaware of abpw. Could you give me a link?
/unquote

Please respond to the group, not via email, unless you may think you know
me.

8" wide boards, my 10" CMS will cut to about 7 1/2, or a bit more, i.e it
will cut a 2x6, but fails on a 2x8, I just bring out my circular saw for
those cuts.

alt.binaries,pictures.woodworking, I notice you are a google groups poster,
you will not be able to find it, you will need a real usenet account.

--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I am really sorry for responding to you via email. I clicked on the
wrong link. I am using google because it is easier while at work... I
will jump on there and take a look though.

Thanks

Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 9:29pm (EDT+4) (FrozenNorth)
doth sayeth:
Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS
won't cut that wide.
--

My saw does. Now. Heh heh. At 90 degrees that is. Dunno what
it'll cut at 45. I made a "bed", that raises the work up, and now it
will cut 8 inches. I may tweak it later, so it will cut close to the
full 10". Woodworking is meant to be fun, I'm having fun.



JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."

Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 2:37pm (EDT-3) (Airedale)
doth query:
So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do better
with the 12" for $80 more?

You're a big boy now, you decide.



JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."

Steve wrote in
.128:

Airedale wrote on 22 Oct 2007 in group
rec.woodworking:

So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do
better with the 12" for $80 more?

I specifically bought the 12" so I'd never say to myself, "Dang, I
wish my saw was a little bigger". The only downside is that the saw is
a little bigger and heavier. Also, go for the compound miter so you
can put up crown molding in a few months.


If you get the sliding version, you can also cut much wider boards.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Oct 22, 8:30 pm, "Allen Roy" wrote:
You might want to go with the 12". However you will want to use a good
carbide tipped blade with at least 60 teeth. I do stress carbide tipped,
otherwise the flooring will eat up the blade very quickly.

And even then, you're going to be wearing out a lot of
blades very quickly. The substrate might be cardboard,
but the finish is some sort of very hard ceramic impregnated
resin. I've never seen a blade light up at the contact point
when cutting wood products.

Airedale wrote:

So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do better
with the 12" for $80 more?

You better buy _sliding_ miter saw. $130 or so from Harbor Freight will do
just fine if you don't need greater accuracy and won't use the saw much.

That would allow you to cut up to 12" and it will be way better accuracywise
that any of chop saws now matter how expensive.

---
************************************************** ****************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
************************************************** ****************

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Allen Roy wrote:
You might want to go with the 12". However you will want to use a good
carbide tipped blade with at least 60 teeth. I do stress carbide tipped,
otherwise the flooring will eat up the blade very quickly.

Allen

I'd recommend a cheap carbide blade. No sense ruining a good blade.


--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
J T took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22, 2007 05:11 pm and wrote
the following:

Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 8:16pm (EDT+4) (FrozenNorth)
pointed his maroon spray paint wrong, sprayed himself in the face, then
said:
Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
down a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90
degrees, never mind at 45, snip

Hehehe I got a new, $70, Harbor Freight 10" miter saw awhile
back. Some think they're low quality; however, it zips thru oak
flooring, any angle, no sweat. You got a carbide tip blade in your saw?
My saw came with one.

Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS won't
cut that wide.

When I cut my 8" flooring I would pull down on the chop saw (cut a little
more than 7 inches) and when it bottomed out I would lift up on the board.
Perfect cuts. I will admit that this was snap together laminates and that
all the cuts ended up against walls where they will be covered by
baseboards.

Ivan Vegvary

Ivan Vegvary took a can of maroon spray paint on October 23, 2007 07:53 pm
and wrote the following:


"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
J T took a can of maroon spray paint on October 22, 2007 05:11 pm and
wrote
the following:

Mon, Oct 22, 2007, 8:16pm (EDT+4) (FrozenNorth)
pointed his maroon spray paint wrong, sprayed himself in the face, then
said:
Depends upon your flooring, I also own a Rigid 10" Miter Saw, just put
down a laminate floor this weekend, the 10" would not cut it at 90
degrees, never mind at 45, snip

Hehehe I got a new, $70, Harbor Freight 10" miter saw awhile
back. Some think they're low quality; however, it zips thru oak
flooring, any angle, no sweat. You got a carbide tip blade in your saw?
My saw came with one.

Carbide tip, problem was the boards were 8" wide, my 10" Ridgid CMS won't
cut that wide.

When I cut my 8" flooring I would pull down on the chop saw (cut a little
more than 7 inches) and when it bottomed out I would lift up on the board.
Perfect cuts. I will admit that this was snap together laminates and that
all the cuts ended up against walls where they will be covered by
baseboards.

That doesn't seem safe to me, I treat power tools with a great deal of
respect, I like my fingers where the are.

--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.

"Airedale" wrote in message
ups.com...
So do you guys think I should stick with the 10", or would I do better
with the 12" for $80 more?


10" is plenty. .... Up until the time you need that extra half inch to cut
and you'll curse yourself for not spending the extra up front.

For laminate, you NEED a carbide blade. Get a spare too and they will both
need sharpening when the job is done.

On Oct 23, 12:11 am, Steve wrote:
Father Haskell wrote on 22 Oct 2007 in group
rec.woodworking:

On Oct 22, 8:30 pm, "Allen Roy" wrote:
You might want to go with the 12". However you will want to use a
good carbide tipped blade with at least 60 teeth. I do stress
carbide tipped, otherwise the flooring will eat up the blade very
quickly.

And even then, you're going to be wearing out a lot of
blades very quickly. The substrate might be cardboard,
but the finish is some sort of very hard ceramic impregnated
resin. I've never seen a blade light up at the contact point
when cutting wood products.

Most of those hard finishes contain aluminum oxide -- the same thing
that's on the high-end sandpaper. I wore down a good blade on that stuff
to the point where it smoked when I cut pine molding.

Two Freud Diablos should get you through a 10 x 20 foot floor.
They won't cut worth a damn afterwards.