I have been using a Makita and Dewalt ¼"sheet palm sanders.
They both work well but the dust collection system is not all that good.
The switches are working but at time I need two hands to turn the power on
or off.
The Rigid ¼"sheet palm sander appears to have an improved dust bag that can
be hook to a standard vacuum hose and the switch can be turned on and off
with one hand.
I wonder if someone already have a Rigid and can comment on it.
TIA

wrote in
:

I have been using a Makita and Dewalt ¼"sheet palm sanders.
They both work well but the dust collection system is not all that
good. The switches are working but at time I need two hands to turn
the power on or off.
The Rigid ¼"sheet palm sander appears to have an improved dust bag
that can be hook to a standard vacuum hose and the switch can be
turned on and off with one hand.
I wonder if someone already have a Rigid and can comment on it.
TIA

When my nephew needed a sander to renovate his house (read strip all of the
siding, ceilings and wall board, treat for termites, replace major portions
of framing, wallboard, windows and doors...) we picked out the Ridgid
sander for his use. It was orange, had a longish warranty, was on the
shelf, and Robatoy had said good things about it. Tony abused it for a
year, working on his place, and it still works pretty well today. The
house looks a lot better, too.

For that level of investment, it seems a pretty good deal. Were I to
replace one of my sanders today, I'd buy orange.

Patriarch

wrote in message
...
I have been using a Makita and Dewalt ¼"sheet palm sanders.
They both work well but the dust collection system is not all that good.
The switches are working but at time I need two hands to turn the power on
or off.
The Rigid ¼"sheet palm sander appears to have an improved dust bag that
can be hook to a standard vacuum hose and the switch can be turned on and
off with one hand.
I wonder if someone already have a Rigid and can comment on it.
TIA

Do you have a 5" ROS? Once you use one, you'll never pick up that palm
sander again.

wrote in message
...
I have been using a Makita and Dewalt ¼"sheet palm sanders.
They both work well but the dust collection system is not all that good.
The switches are working but at time I need two hands to turn the power on
or off.
The Rigid ¼"sheet palm sander appears to have an improved dust bag that
can be hook to a standard vacuum hose and the switch can be turned on and
off with one hand.
I wonder if someone already have a Rigid and can comment on it.
TIA



Consider the PC SpeedBloc. Old design that has not been changed much in
20+years. Mine lasted 15 years and I replaced it with the same.

wrote in message
...
I have been using a Makita and Dewalt ¼"sheet palm sanders.
They both work well but the dust collection system is not all that good.
The switches are working but at time I need two hands to turn the power on
or off.
The Rigid ¼"sheet palm sander appears to have an improved dust bag that
can be hook to a standard vacuum hose and the switch can be turned on and
off with one hand.
I wonder if someone already have a Rigid and can comment on it.
TIA

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.

Your comment is well taken.
I have use electrical ROS to remove paint on fibreglass boat. After two
days of continuous use it stop working.
I then returned it to get my money back. Then I bough a pneumatic powered
ROS to finish the job.
I soon learned that the pneumatic is a far better tool.
Why I do not use it anymore? It is because of the operating cost and
flexibility.
The cost of one 5" dia. sanding disk is around 0.38¢ to 0.60¢.
While the cost of a ¼ sheet sand paper is (8x11 sh't /4) 0.60¢ / 4 = 0.15¢
or at time less.
When finishing or refinishing furniture a 5" disk does not go into corners a
¼ sheet does.
I can use a ¼ sh't palm sander with one hand whether I am under the hull of
my boat or on a table top.
The 5" ROS appears to remove material faster. However with the proper
no-fiil and correct grit of sand paper the ¼ sh't sander is not too far
behind at a lower cost of operation.
In comparison (top of the line sanders) the 5" ROS works at 12500 OPM vs.
the ¼ sh't palm sander at 1400 OPM.
Having said that It does not mean that I will not buy of use a 5" ROS. It
becomes a matter of picking the right tool for the job.




"Toller" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
I have been using a Makita and Dewalt ¼"sheet palm sanders.
They both work well but the dust collection system is not all that good.
The switches are working but at time I need two hands to turn the power
on or off.
The Rigid ¼"sheet palm sander appears to have an improved dust bag that
can be hook to a standard vacuum hose and the switch can be turned on and
off with one hand.
I wonder if someone already have a Rigid and can comment on it.
TIA

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.

"Toller" wrote in message
...

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.



For starters, how about sanding into drawer corners, cabinet corners, or the
edge of 1/2" thick material with out rounding the edges.

Precisely.

wrote in message
...
Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.

Your comment is well taken.
I have use electrical ROS to remove paint on fibreglass boat. After two
days of continuous use it stop working.
I then returned it to get my money back. Then I bough a pneumatic powered
ROS to finish the job.
I soon learned that the pneumatic is a far better tool.
Why I do not use it anymore? It is because of the operating cost and
flexibility.
The cost of one 5" dia. sanding disk is around 0.38¢ to 0.60¢.
While the cost of a ¼ sheet sand paper is (8x11 sh't /4) 0.60¢ / 4 = 0.15¢
or at time less.
When finishing or refinishing furniture a 5" disk does not go into corners
a ¼ sheet does.
I can use a ¼ sh't palm sander with one hand whether I am under the hull
of my boat or on a table top.
The 5" ROS appears to remove material faster. However with the proper
no-fiil and correct grit of sand paper the ¼ sh't sander is not too far
behind at a lower cost of operation.
In comparison (top of the line sanders) the 5" ROS works at 12500 OPM vs.
the ¼ sh't palm sander at 1400 OPM.
Having said that It does not mean that I will not buy of use a 5" ROS. It
becomes a matter of picking the right tool for the job.




"Toller" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
I have been using a Makita and Dewalt ¼"sheet palm sanders.
They both work well but the dust collection system is not all that good.
The switches are working but at time I need two hands to turn the power
on or off.
The Rigid ¼"sheet palm sander appears to have an improved dust bag that
can be hook to a standard vacuum hose and the switch can be turned on
and off with one hand.
I wonder if someone already have a Rigid and can comment on it.
TIA

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.

"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Toller" wrote in message
...

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.



For starters, how about sanding into drawer corners, cabinet corners, or
the edge of 1/2" thick material with out rounding the edges.
I have never had a problem with edges.
It will not get into corners, but that is what a multimate is for. It gets
into corners better than a 1/4 sheet sander.
And yes, the supplies cost more. If you time is valued at $2/hour, the 1/4
sheet is probably the right choice; that would be an exception to what I
said.

wrote:

Your comment is well taken.
I have use electrical ROS to remove paint on fibreglass boat.
After two
days of continuous use it stop working.
I then returned it to get my money back.

You need to blow the dust out of any electrical tool used on a
fiberglass boat at least once a day if you expect it to survive.

As far as cost is concerned, my cost for 6" ROS discs, even 40 grit,
is less than $0.25 each when purchased in lots of 100 pieces.

You need to find another supplier.

Lew

On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 20:39:11 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
I have been using a Makita and Dewalt ¼"sheet palm sanders.
They both work well but the dust collection system is not all that good.
The switches are working but at time I need two hands to turn the power on
or off.
The Rigid ¼"sheet palm sander appears to have an improved dust bag that
can be hook to a standard vacuum hose and the switch can be turned on and
off with one hand.
I wonder if someone already have a Rigid and can comment on it.
TIA



Consider the PC SpeedBloc. Old design that has not been changed much in
20+years. Mine lasted 15 years and I replaced it with the same.

It's weight is an advantage when sanding horizontal surfaces, but I've
found it too heavy and the grip too large to hold comfortably to use
on vertical surfaces. I would advise getting whatever feels good in
your hand.


-Leuf

Toller wrote:

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and
I can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.

I have and use both a 1/4 sheet sander and 5" ROS sander. I started
out with just the ROS, but picked up the 1/4 sheet for the following
reasons:

o) To have another sander ready to go with a different grit of
paper all ready loaded.

o) To handle corners and such that a round ROS sander can't get
into.

o) To be able to use finer grits of paper than are typically
available in the hook/loop variety. Typically the finest grade of
5" hook/loop that's easy to get is only about 220. If there are finer
grits out there, it's not something that can be purchased during a
quick trip to one of the big box stores. However 320 grit and
and sometimes higher are available in full sheets at the big box
stores or at auto parts stores, which can then be cut down to 1/4
sheets sizes. Typically, I use the 1/4 sheet sander with 320.

o) With 320 grit in the 1/4 sheet, I use it as a last pass to
smooth things out before finishing and also to potentially get rid of
any swirly marks that might have been created by the ROS.


Typically I'll run through 80, 100, 150 and 220 in the ROS where I can
quickly change sanding discs and then finish up with the 1/4 sheet and
320.

If I was only going to have one sander, it would be the ROS with a
variety of hook/loop discs as it's fast and easy to switch grits. But
having both the ROS and the 1/4 sheet is better since it provides the
ability to use finer grits that typically aren't available in
hook/loop discs.

--

If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
remove ".invalid".

"Toller" wrote in message
...



For starters, how about sanding into drawer corners, cabinet corners, or
the edge of 1/2" thick material with out rounding the edges.
I have never had a problem with edges.
It will not get into corners, but that is what a multimate is for. It
gets into corners better than a 1/4 sheet sander.
And yes, the supplies cost more. If you time is valued at $2/hour, the
1/4 sheet is probably the right choice; that would be an exception to what
I said.


My time is often worth $40 or more, down from when I made my living in the
automotive industry. I have been using a ROS and a PC SpeedBloc finish
sander since 1989. Recently I added the Fein Multimaster a very veritable
tool. I would never want to be with out a finish sander, at least the
SpeedBloc finish sander. The Speed Bloc would probably give most ROS
sanders a run for their money.

Leon wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.



For starters, how about sanding into drawer corners, cabinet corners, or the
edge of 1/2" thick material with out rounding the edges.

I'm not saying a palm sander is a bad tool or anything.. But don't you
sand all pieces before assembly? That makes things a lot easier..

As far as sanding between coats of poly, I've had best results from
just using a hand sanding block.

Basically, I never have to sand into a corner.

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...



I'm not saying a palm sander is a bad tool or anything.. But don't you
sand all pieces before assembly? That makes things a lot easier..

Yes, I do sand some pieces before assembly, SOMETIMES. If I want a dado
joint to fit as intended I usually sand last, that makes things fit a lot
better. I have a pretty effecient routine down after 30 years. ;~)


As far as sanding between coats of poly, I've had best results from
just using a hand sanding block.

I use 0000 steel wool or a 3M scotch brite pad if anything at all.

BTY, I posted pictures of a display case on a.b.p.w. It has 16, 1/4" radius
quarter round moldings and a bunch of 1/4" radius corners. Those would be
tough to sand with a ROS.

When making furniture all pieces of wood are surface planed and do not
require sanding. The finish obtained is made be removing only thin shaving
at a time on the planer.
Once the pieces of wood are assembled together with joinery, glue and
mechanical fasteners excess glue is removed.
The bonding residue is removed according to the type of glue. With epoxy
acetone is used and with carpenter exterior glue water is used.
As water rises the grain a light sanding is done most of the time manually
or with a steel scrapper or wool.
When the situation calls for more than that a palm sander is used
progressively with 180, 220 and 320 grit. The final sanding is determined
by the nature of the wood. As an example pine, maple and oak do not require
the same sanding approach.

Where the palm sander is widely used is for furniture refinishing. I have
just completed refinishing all our solid oak kitchen cabinets including the
doors and drawers. BTW our kitchen is 12' X 24'.
To do so I used metal/carbide scrapers, palm sanders, hand sanding and steel
wood.
When I want to remove material fast I use the belt sander. With this belt
sander you have to move it all the time otherwise you will dig in to the
wood fast. Even now for fast material removal, on small job, I use the palm
sander with a no-fill sand paper of 60, 80 to 100 grit. I am sure that
other people have better procedures then mine. But these are the one I have
used with proven results for years.

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...

Leon wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and
I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.



For starters, how about sanding into drawer corners, cabinet corners, or
the
edge of 1/2" thick material with out rounding the edges.

I'm not saying a palm sander is a bad tool or anything.. But don't you
sand all pieces before assembly? That makes things a lot easier..

As far as sanding between coats of poly, I've had best results from
just using a hand sanding block.

Basically, I never have to sand into a corner.

OK, The PC Speed Bloc is a palm/finish sander.

wrote in message
...
When making furniture all pieces of wood are surface planed and do not
require sanding. The finish obtained is made be removing only thin
shaving at a time on the planer.
Once the pieces of wood are assembled together with joinery, glue and
mechanical fasteners excess glue is removed.
The bonding residue is removed according to the type of glue. With epoxy
acetone is used and with carpenter exterior glue water is used.
As water rises the grain a light sanding is done most of the time manually
or with a steel scrapper or wool.
When the situation calls for more than that a palm sander is used
progressively with 180, 220 and 320 grit. The final sanding is determined
by the nature of the wood. As an example pine, maple and oak do not
require the same sanding approach.

Where the palm sander is widely used is for furniture refinishing. I have
just completed refinishing all our solid oak kitchen cabinets including
the doors and drawers. BTW our kitchen is 12' X 24'.
To do so I used metal/carbide scrapers, palm sanders, hand sanding and
steel wood.
When I want to remove material fast I use the belt sander. With this belt
sander you have to move it all the time otherwise you will dig in to the
wood fast. Even now for fast material removal, on small job, I use the
palm sander with a no-fill sand paper of 60, 80 to 100 grit. I am sure
that other people have better procedures then mine. But these are the one
I have used with proven results for years.

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...

Leon wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander, and
I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.



For starters, how about sanding into drawer corners, cabinet corners, or
the
edge of 1/2" thick material with out rounding the edges.

I'm not saying a palm sander is a bad tool or anything.. But don't you
sand all pieces before assembly? That makes things a lot easier..

As far as sanding between coats of poly, I've had best results from
just using a hand sanding block.

Basically, I never have to sand into a corner.

I never said I was to never use an ROS again.
After reading your post I am musing about it.

"Leon" wrote in message
t...
OK, The PC Speed Bloc is a palm/finish sander.

wrote in message
...
When making furniture all pieces of wood are surface planed and do not
require sanding. The finish obtained is made be removing only thin
shaving at a time on the planer.
Once the pieces of wood are assembled together with joinery, glue and
mechanical fasteners excess glue is removed.
The bonding residue is removed according to the type of glue. With epoxy
acetone is used and with carpenter exterior glue water is used.
As water rises the grain a light sanding is done most of the time
manually or with a steel scrapper or wool.
When the situation calls for more than that a palm sander is used
progressively with 180, 220 and 320 grit. The final sanding is
determined by the nature of the wood. As an example pine, maple and oak
do not require the same sanding approach.

Where the palm sander is widely used is for furniture refinishing. I
have just completed refinishing all our solid oak kitchen cabinets
including the doors and drawers. BTW our kitchen is 12' X 24'.
To do so I used metal/carbide scrapers, palm sanders, hand sanding and
steel wood.
When I want to remove material fast I use the belt sander. With this
belt sander you have to move it all the time otherwise you will dig in to
the wood fast. Even now for fast material removal, on small job, I use
the palm sander with a no-fill sand paper of 60, 80 to 100 grit. I am
sure that other people have better procedures then mine. But these are
the one I have used with proven results for years.

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...

Leon wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...

Unless you have a really good reason for using a 1/4 sheet sander,
and I
can't imagine what that might be, you should get a ROS instead.
I just sold my 1/4 sheet sander because I hadn't used it in 2 years.



For starters, how about sanding into drawer corners, cabinet corners,
or the
edge of 1/2" thick material with out rounding the edges.

I'm not saying a palm sander is a bad tool or anything.. But don't you
sand all pieces before assembly? That makes things a lot easier..

As far as sanding between coats of poly, I've had best results from
just using a hand sanding block.

Basically, I never have to sand into a corner.

wrote in message
...
I never said I was to never use an ROS again.
After reading your post I am musing about it.

OK, A ROS is good but does not replace a palm/finish sander unless you have
never used a good palm/finish sander. The PC SpeedBloc is a palm/finish
sander and a very good one. The design has been around longer than most
ROS's have existed. It is truly one of the good old design non-ROS sanders.

On Fri, 22 Dec 2006 23:13:34 +0000, Leon wrote:

BTY, I posted pictures of a display case on a.b.p.w. It has 16, 1/4" radius
quarter round moldings and a bunch of 1/4" radius corners. Those would be
tough to sand with a ROS.

Be tough with any kind of sander except the Porter Cable detail sander,
which isn't all that great a sander, but will handle 1/4" radius inside
and outside.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)