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#1
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on
the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't assemble any large cabinets down there.) I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be. I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is especially appealing. Thanks for any advice. |
#2
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
Chris Wolf wrote:
I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't assemble any large cabinets down there.) I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be. I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is especially appealing. Thanks for any advice. 4 bolts hold the top on my Grizz 1023 .. .. remove them and the base will fit in any stairwell I've ever seen .. .. if weight is an issue, remove the motor before trying to get it down the stairs. |
#3
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 22:05:50 GMT, B A R R Y
wrote: Most any contractor's saw (real CS, not just a "site" saw) should fit quite easily with the legs, wings, and motor removed. Depending on the turns, a 10" cabinet saw should also fit, if broken down into body (with or without motor), wings, and top sub-assemblies. The body section will be heavy, which is where the turns will come into play as the carriers try to maintain a grip. Planking the stairs an sliding it down, roped from the top of the stairs, may be an option. I was most concerned about the weight, since that's what gave us the most trouble getting the jointer down there, and it probably weighs only 200 pounds, half of what these saws weigh. Since I've never assembled/disassembled a saw, I have no concept of what the main subassemblies are or how heavy each of them is. It would certainly be easiest if the largest piece was under 200 pounds. If you take the legs, wings and motor off a CS or one of the hybrids such as the Dewalt, is that about the max you can break it down? How heavy is the body after that? (remove "x" from address for email) |
#4
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
I think you will be fine with about any saw in your price range. Your back
might complain but they should fit with some help. I own a Griz 1023s which is rather heavy. But with wings and fence rails removed it is about 24" square x about 3' tall. The 1023 should be representative of about any good contractor or cabinet saw. Just buy one and assemble it downstairs. BTW the 1023 is a very good value for the money. Even with shipping you might get one at your upper $1,000 target. RonB |
#5
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
IMHO I would worry less about weight right now, and go for the best machine
I could afford. Then round up friends, relatives and a case of beer and lug the boxes down the steps. Drink the beer after the saw is downstairs! Seriously, the 1023s I mentioned in my previous post weighs in around 360 pounds. However the heaviest single piece is the body, including the main table casting, which I would guess is in the 200-220 range. The cast iron wings, the fence, fence rails, etc are all rather heavy but manageable. The cast iron top and motor could be removed; but, if you had a moving dolly and a couple of buddies you should be able to get it downstairs without total disassembly. Regarding assembly. It took 2-3 hours to put mine together. Another 2-3 hours to tweak adjustments (some of that was playing). Do Not comprimise the quality of the machine by selecting one that weighs less. It might not be sturdy either. Ron |
#6
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
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#7
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
I have the reverse problem. My shop is in a loft 15 steps above the
garage with a tight turn at the bottom. I purchased a Jet Supersaw. As delivered the wings are not attached. We strapped the saw (table, cabinet and motor) to an appliance handtruck and humped it up the steps. It weighs about 230 lbs. Then just assembled the remainder of the saw. With a good handtruck just take one step at a time. Of course check the saw's width without wings against your stair width. Only took my BIL and I to get it up one step at a time and both of us are less than 5' 6". On Nov 22, 6:31 pm, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , wrote: On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf wrote: I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. Most any contractor's saw (real CS, not just a "site" saw) should fit quite easily with the legs, wings, and motor removed. Depending on the turns, a 10" cabinet saw should also fit, if broken down into body (with or without motor), wings, and top sub-assemblies.Careful with that -- I remember a post from a few years back in which someone described removing the top from (IIRC) a JET JTAS-10 to make it easier to get down the stairs -- and as soon as he did so, a handful of shims which had been installed at the factory came out. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#8
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
I removed the top from my Delta Unisaw and my brother and I took it down my basement stairs. I then placed the main body in the mobile base, installed the top and wings and with a dial indicator trued the top to the blade. Installed the table board, legs, fence and was finished. I also brought down those stairs a Delta 14" closed base band saw, 10" radial arm saw, Jet closed base 6" jointer, a Ridgid full size drill press, Ridgid 13" planer, Gizzly stationary belt sander with stand and a 1.5 hp Delta dust collector. No problem getting them down the stairs but if I ever sell my home and would rather make a deal with the new owners to buy everything from me and start over again. Too damn heavy to carry up the stairs. It can be done, just depends on how bad you want it. |
#9
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 18:02:39 -0500, Chris Wolf
wrote: I was most concerned about the weight, since that's what gave us the most trouble getting the jointer down there, and it probably weighs only 200 pounds, half of what these saws weigh. Since I've never assembled/disassembled a saw, I have no concept of what the main subassemblies are or how heavy each of them is. It would certainly be easiest if the largest piece was under 200 pounds. If you take the legs, wings and motor off a CS or one of the hybrids such as the Dewalt, is that about the max you can break it down? How heavy is the body after that? We brought a Ridgid TS3650 down into the basement here. It comes disassembled to the point you need it to be. By the time you get everything that isn't the main part out of the box it really isn't that bad. We took everything but that out and then used a hand truck, but really at that point the two of us could have carried it. Keep in mind the stand comes in about a billion pieces and you'll be tightening bolts on your knees for so long you'll be longing for the joyful time you were carrying the saw down the stairs. -Leuf |
#10
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
"Chris Wolf" wrote in message I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be. Forget the stairs. IIRC, a few years back it was on this newsgroup that someone had a simple solution. They cut a hole in the floor and cut a portion of one joist, lowered the tools down to the basement, then patched the floor. |
#11
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf
wrote: I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is especially appealing. The Ridgid comes in lots and lots of pieces, I don't think you'd have any problem carrying it downstairs (there are a couple really heavy pieces, you'd better have help). When I helped a friend put his together, it went together easily and works wonderfully. Haven't tried putting together any other contractor's saws though but I would assume they're similar. |
#12
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
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#13
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
In article ,
Chris Wolf wrote: I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't assemble any large cabinets down there.) I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be. I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is especially appealing. Thanks for any advice. A conventional contractors saw is probably the easiest to dissasembe & reassemble. Take off the motor, unbolt from stand. I had to partially disassemble mine to get it in the basement and I was able to stop at this point. My saw has steel extension tables & rails for 25" rip capacity so I was able to leave them attached. If it has cast iron table extensions, you'll probably want to remove them and the fence rails before taking it down the stairs, even if it will fit, because of weight & susceptability to damage. down the stairs -- Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - |
#14
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
In article ,
Edwin Pawlowski wrote: "Chris Wolf" wrote in message I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be. Forget the stairs. IIRC, a few years back it was on this newsgroup that someone had a simple solution. They cut a hole in the floor and cut a portion of one joist, lowered the tools down to the basement, then patched the floor. I owned a small rowhouse once where a previous owner had actually done this to get a furnace into the basement. -- Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - |
#15
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf
wrote: I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't assemble any large cabinets down there.) I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be. I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is especially appealing. Thanks for any advice. First, for the best value on the dollar I would go to .....www.grizzly.com This stuff comes fairly well broken down. The cast table will be the most difficult but even that is not more than a two man job. Good Luck, J |
#16
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
I recently bought the Rigid 3650, and have the same narrow stairs
problem. The thing is heavy - 300 pounds - but comes disassembled. The heaviest piece was about 100 pounds. I had no problem getting the thing into the basement by myself. And, that tool is so accurate! Compared to my Crapsman radial arm saw it's night and day. Get some accurate measuring tools to set the thing up properly and you'll be able to get consistent cuts to a couple of a thousanths of an inch. - Jack |
#17
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On 23 Nov 2006 04:01:49 -0800, "
wrote: I recently bought the Rigid 3650, and have the same narrow stairs problem. The thing is heavy - 300 pounds - but comes disassembled. The heaviest piece was about 100 pounds. I had no problem getting the thing into the basement by myself. These answers have been great--very helpful. Does anyone have experience with the Dewalt DW746, as to how big its subassemblies are as delivered? (remove "x" from address for email) |
#18
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf
wrote: I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't assemble any large cabinets down there.) I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be. I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is especially appealing. My Delta contractor's saw (36-680) came in three seperate boxes- and I brought it home in the trunk of a car. It'd still be heavy to move down stairs, but I suspect that the boxes would fit if you put them on a two-wheel cart and move slowly. If needed, you could take the parts out of the boxes and move each part seperately- the base cabinet is one piece, the table is made from three pieces of cast iron (one assembled to the base, and two that get bolted on during assembly), the motor and plate it bolts to are loose, and the legs are pieces of angle iron that you need to assemble. Fence and rails come in the third box. At a guess, the heaviest bit (the cabinet, trunnions, and middle section of the top) was about 50-75 lbs, with volume somewhat similar to an average benchtop saw. IIRC, I paid something like $600 for it, and it's a heck of a nice saw- I would imagine that most contractor-style saws in that range come broken down in a similar fashion. If you're looking at something like the Delta, I could measure so you can figure out whether or not it'd fit down your stairs, if you like. While I do like the DeWalt for what it is- it may not fit your needs if you're looking for a "real" saw, and are only looking at it because it's easier to get into the house.. |
#19
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 20:08:05 -0500, Leuf
wrote: Keep in mind the stand comes in about a billion pieces and you'll be tightening bolts on your knees for so long you'll be longing for the joyful time you were carrying the saw down the stairs. That's the truth- I think I spent about 2 hours fiddling with bolts and an hour running a 220 line before I even got to turn mine on. |
#20
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
Prometheus wrote:
My Delta contractor's saw (36-680) came in three seperate boxes- and I brought it home in the trunk of a car. Thanks, that's the type of description I needed. While I do like the DeWalt for what it is- it may not fit your needs if you're looking for a "real" saw, and are only looking at it because it's easier to get into the house.. I'm not sure we're talking about the same Dewalt saw. I'm referring to the $950 DW746X, which was an Editor's choice in American Woodworker over competitors such as the $850 Delta 36-431 contractor's saw, and which got good reviews from other magazines. The advantage it offers for my small shop is the cabinet-saw-like design. Since the motor doesn't hang off the back, it doesn't require as much floor space. Is there anyone here who has this saw who can describe how it's packaged when you buy it? Thanks. |
#21
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 02:00:52 -0600, Prometheus
wrote: On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 20:08:05 -0500, Leuf wrote: Keep in mind the stand comes in about a billion pieces and you'll be tightening bolts on your knees for so long you'll be longing for the joyful time you were carrying the saw down the stairs. That's the truth- I think I spent about 2 hours fiddling with bolts and an hour running a 220 line before I even got to turn mine on. How'd you run the 220 over? Individual leads in conduit? Or something else? |
#22
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf
wrote: I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't assemble any large cabinets down there.) I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be. I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is especially appealing. Thanks for any advice. I went to the DeWalt site and took a look at the DW746X It looks similar to the one I just bought, a General. I know, different brand, but there's similarities. It's obvious that the fence and left & right extension wings are separate. The black plastic cover on the right side is no doubt a separate item, and the switch is certainly loose too. So what you're dealing with is the center yellow portion topped with the center cast iron piece. The motor and trunnions are attached to the top and hanging right under it. I'd guess the thing is about 175 lbs. Total weight is 254 lbs according to DeWalts website. My nephews moved my saw into my basement and wanted to carry the thing themselves. I had to insist that they use the refridgerator dolly to take it down. It was really easy that way. But my point is that with a couple of strong young guys, a saw like your DeWalt would be able to be manhandled into the basement. A couple of guys once brought over a dryer that they carried on a sling that was draped over each of their shoulders. Maybe something like that could be done here if need be. |
#23
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
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#24
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
George Max wrote:
I don't know why home builders don't consider their designs when it comes to getting things in and out. What do they think, furnaces and such last forever? Because home builders are interested in selling houses, not living in them. If home buyers were more discriminate, builders would stop the nonsense. Mike |
#25
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
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#26
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
"George Max" wrote in message I wonder why my sister "allowed" the builder of her home to put the basement entry in a narrow hall in the center of the house. No way in hell is anyone getting anything serious down there. The last time I toured a model home while considering having one constructed for wifey and I, I inquired about what I refer to as a "trap door." I know they're actually called something else, but when I was a boy, a lot of homes in the area I grew up in had a pair of exterior doors at an angle to the ground that provided access from outside directly to the basement. There was of course a door at the bottom of the steps in the actual basement wall (foundation). Bulkhead doors. They have the Bilco brand of outside doors on them for access. Narrow hallways, ill considered corridor placement and width, narrow entry doors, I just don't get why people accept this. Especially in light of super restrictive HOA rules that may not allow the use of a garage for anything but car parking and preclude construction of an out building. What's the world coming to? We live in a bland society. Many people never go to the basement let alone do any serious work down there. Years ago, the basement was a place to do woodwork, make wine, do canning, repair appliances and of course, laundry. Today, it is used to store old video game cartridges and soccer knee pads. We accept Wonder bread so don't think buyers will have any more discriminate taste in home design. |
#27
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 03:04:48 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote: "George Max" wrote in message I wonder why my sister "allowed" the builder of her home to put the basement entry in a narrow hall in the center of the house. No way in hell is anyone getting anything serious down there. The last time I toured a model home while considering having one constructed for wifey and I, I inquired about what I refer to as a "trap door." I know they're actually called something else, but when I was a boy, a lot of homes in the area I grew up in had a pair of exterior doors at an angle to the ground that provided access from outside directly to the basement. There was of course a door at the bottom of the steps in the actual basement wall (foundation). Bulkhead doors. They have the Bilco brand of outside doors on them for access. Narrow hallways, ill considered corridor placement and width, narrow entry doors, I just don't get why people accept this. Especially in light of super restrictive HOA rules that may not allow the use of a garage for anything but car parking and preclude construction of an out building. What's the world coming to? We live in a bland society. Many people never go to the basement let alone do any serious work down there. Years ago, the basement was a place to do woodwork, make wine, do canning, repair appliances and of course, laundry. Today, it is used to store old video game cartridges and soccer knee pads. We accept Wonder bread so don't think buyers will have any more discriminate taste in home design. If I'm to ever complete a transaction with a builder, he/she is gonna have to make lots of changes to suit the fact that among other things, I think a basement is additional living space. And if not that, certainly it's usable for more than video cartridge storage and a place for the boogey man to live. Why is it that the people that don't want a basement simply build on a slab (SE Wisconsin)? BTW, that subdivision my sister and her husband moved into looks like a scene from "The Stepford Wives." All look alike drab colors, cedar siding, ect. What's the matter with a litte variation - Colonials, Cape Cods, Tudors, ect.? |
#28
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
George Max wrote:
I wonder why my sister "allowed" the builder of her home to put the basement entry in a narrow hall in the center of the house. No way in hell is anyone getting anything serious down there. Maybe "she" didn't "look" over the "plans"? Mike |
#29
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
"George Max" wrote in message If I'm to ever complete a transaction with a builder, he/she is gonna have to make lots of changes to suit the fact that among other things, I think a basement is additional living space. And if not that, certainly it's usable for more than video cartridge storage and a place for the boogey man to live. Why is it that the people that don't want a basement simply build on a slab (SE Wisconsin)? Code is the main reason why some things are done. Living spaces have an entirely different set of requirements than temporary use spaces. Alternate egress being chief among them. It's cheaper to build on a slab, of course, but the need for 4' deep footings in frost country makes it worthwhile to go the other four and have a basement, though hybrid designs with ground-level access/egress are fairly common to save money and still get the space. Don't use the basement for coal storage any more, of course. Our coal bin became dad's shop when we converted to gas. |
#30
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
George Max wrote:
BTW, that subdivision my sister and her husband moved into looks like a scene from "The Stepford Wives." All look alike drab colors, cedar siding, ect. What's the matter with a litte variation - Colonials, Cape Cods, Tudors, ect.? Beats me. My wife and I life in the only house that isn't painted either completely white or white with a touch of some trim color on our block. The next block also has exactly one house that isn't predominantly white. There seems to be a psychology at work here that I simply won't subscribe to. baa-baa Bill -- There is hopeful symbolism in the fact that flags do not wave in a vacuum. Arthur C. Clarke |
#31
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
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#32
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 15:00:41 GMT, "George" wrote:
"George Max" wrote in message If I'm to ever complete a transaction with a builder, he/she is gonna have to make lots of changes to suit the fact that among other things, I think a basement is additional living space. And if not that, certainly it's usable for more than video cartridge storage and a place for the boogey man to live. Why is it that the people that don't want a basement simply build on a slab (SE Wisconsin)? Code is the main reason why some things are done. Living spaces have an entirely different set of requirements than temporary use spaces. Alternate egress being chief among them. Absolutely. Good idea. I'll ask for two ways in and out. Fortunately only 1 has to get the big stuff in and out. It's cheaper to build on a slab, of course, but the need for 4' deep footings in frost country makes it worthwhile to go the other four and have a basement, though hybrid designs with ground-level access/egress are fairly common to save money and still get the space. Don't use the basement for coal storage any more, of course. Our coal bin became dad's shop when we converted to gas. That reminds me - I used to see that outline of a really large furnace on my basement floor. Something that was there and gone before I ever bought the place. I imagine it could have been a coal furnace since my house was built in 1941. But then I wonder where they were leaving the coal. There is no separate room in my basement, it's all one big space. BTW, the reason I no longer see that outline is 'cause I painted the floor. |
#33
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 11:33:48 -0500, Bill in Detroit
wrote: George Max wrote: BTW, that subdivision my sister and her husband moved into looks like a scene from "The Stepford Wives." All look alike drab colors, cedar siding, ect. What's the matter with a litte variation - Colonials, Cape Cods, Tudors, ect.? Beats me. My wife and I life in the only house that isn't painted either completely white or white with a touch of some trim color on our block. The next block also has exactly one house that isn't predominantly white. There seems to be a psychology at work here that I simply won't subscribe to. baa-baa Bill I hear you. A little individuality is nice. We're not talking rusty old cars in the backyard, just something for personality. |
#34
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
On Tue, 28 Nov 2006 01:46:45 GMT, George Max
wrote: On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 02:00:52 -0600, Prometheus wrote: On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 20:08:05 -0500, Leuf wrote: Keep in mind the stand comes in about a billion pieces and you'll be tightening bolts on your knees for so long you'll be longing for the joyful time you were carrying the saw down the stairs. That's the truth- I think I spent about 2 hours fiddling with bolts and an hour running a 220 line before I even got to turn mine on. How'd you run the 220 over? Individual leads in conduit? Or something else? Three wire 12ga. Romex. Tacked in place with plastic wire staples in the rafters, and a plastic cover over the vertical drop to the recepticle. My shop is in the basement, so garage or commerical wiring requirements like conduit or MC wiring don't apply (at least, as far as I know) |
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Basement Shop, Narrow Stairs--Table Saw?
I dealt with this a couple of years ago. Got a Unisaw down my basement
steps. We removed the cast-iron top. It comes right off with 4 large bolts, one in each corner. This not only gets rid of a lot of weight, but also gives you a few inches more clearance, and makes it less top-heavy. Also took off the height and tilt adjustment knobs (for more clearance). With the top off, me and a buddy got it down the stairs on a hand truck. Putting it back together required re-aligning the top with the blade, but that wasn't that hard. |
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