I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge can
be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to the jig
across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hteningjig.jpg

Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards up
to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would like any
suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

Ideas anyone?

"eganders" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge can
be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to the jig
across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hteningjig.jpg

Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards up
to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would like any
suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

Ideas anyone?


The longer your jig, the better the results.

I just secure an appropriate length of anything with a straight
edge to the top of my wavy edged board with double sided tape
or hot glue. Works great for me and I have no jig to build, store,
or wish was longer/shorter/wider/narrower.

Art

"eganders" wrote ...
[snip]
Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards up
to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would like any
suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

Ideas anyone?

I guess I don't fully understand. I have a few questions.

1. Will this jig have something on the bottom to lay into the slot in
the table saw top? If not then I guess you just ride this against the
fence. So what is better than just ripping the lumber against the fence
and no jig?

2. If it does have soemthing to lay in the slot, I guess it is set to a
fixed width from the balde and this jig will only cut one width of
material. If so, make sure to make the jig base wider than needed and
cut it on the tablesaw so the supported actual board you want to cut
has some support underneath as a zero clearance to keep from blow out
on the bottom. The outlying cutoff will be unsupported and after a few
feet it will start to sag down and if it is very wide will possibly
cause some pinch on the balde. Watch out of kick back then.

I guess i am just an old hack but I rip 8ft lumber all the time. I can
usually get it strainght enough for a glue joint but if not it's clean
up in the jointer or do a skim rip as a second pass.

BW
eganders wrote:
I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge can
be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to the jig
across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hteningjig.jpg

Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards up
to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would like any
suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

Ideas anyone?

"eganders" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge can
be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to the jig
across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hteningjig.jpg

Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards up
to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would like any
suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

Ideas anyone?

Your jig idea looks fine. Although it limits you to ripping boards that are
less than 4" wide. I'm assuming you do not have a jointer. If you need to
put a straight edge on a wider board your plan will work fine up to 6".
After that, you may have to add support under the board (dbl stick tape).
You may also wish to add additional tracks for the toggle clamps for
additional width capacity.

Dave

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
oups.com...
I guess I don't fully understand. I have a few questions.

snip
So what is better than just ripping the lumber against the fence
and no jig?

snip
I guess i am just an old hack but I rip 8ft lumber all the time.

Obviously this jig is for lumber that does NOT already have at least one
straight edge.

"eganders" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge can
be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to the jig
across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hteningjig.jpg

Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards up
to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would like any
suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

Ideas anyone?


In addition to building it long, forget the slot for the toggle clamps.
Make the jig wider and screw the clamps down to the location that they work
best for different width boards.

I have an old aluminum straight-edge a little over 8 ft. long.It comes apart
in the middle, so if I need a short rip I only use half. I drilled some
small holes in the guide and just screw it to the board with small screws,
with the edge overhanging the board to serve as a straight guide against the
fence.I then have a straight edge to saw the board to width and straighten
the other edge.Crude, but works for me..on any with up to the limits of your
saw.


"eganders" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge can
be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to the jig
across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hteningjig.jpg

Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards up
to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would like any
suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

Ideas anyone?

eganders (in )
said:

| I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge
| can be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to
| the jig across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:
|
|
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ighteningjig.j
pg
|
| Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
| Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards
| up to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would
| like any suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

You can follow the link in my sig to see the jig I built. I think mine
is longer than necessary, since I can always use a longer straight
board against my saw's fence to guide the jig.

I don't think your track for clamps will be useful. So long as the
clamps hold your workpiece firmly, they can be fairly close together.
I haven't regretted just screwing them to the jig.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/BoardSled.html

I do exactly the same thing, it's quick and gets the job done with no jig to
hang up. It will get you close enough to straight that your jointer can do
the rest.


--
Rick Nagy
3024 Somerset Pike
Johnstown, PA 15905


..

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"Burgy" wrote in message
.. .
I have an old aluminum straight-edge a little over 8 ft. long.It comes
apart in the middle, so if I need a short rip I only use half. I drilled
some small holes in the guide and just screw it to the board with small
screws, with the edge overhanging the board to serve as a straight guide
against the fence.I then have a straight edge to saw the board to width and
straighten the other edge.Crude, but works for me..on any with up to the
limits of your saw.


"eganders" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge can
be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to the jig
across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hteningjig.jpg

Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards up
to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would like any
suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

Ideas anyone?

On Oct 15, 8:11 pm, "Morris Dovey" wrote:
eganders (in . com)
said:

| I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge
| can be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to
| the jig across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use:
|
|http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ighteningjig.j
pg
|
| Basically, I want to hold the board with as short a jig as possible.
| Right now it is 8 ft long. I want to put a straight edge on boards
| up to 8 ft long, but I don't think I need an 8ft jig. Just would
| like any suggestions for modifying what I have so far.

You can follow the link in my sig to see the jig I built. I think mine
is longer than necessary, since I can always use a longer straight
board against my saw's fence to guide the jig.

I don't think your track for clamps will be useful. So long as the
clamps hold your workpiece firmly, they can be fairly close together.
I haven't regretted just screwing them to the jig.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/BoardSled.html


Well, I'll be darned if yours does not look exactly like mine. I think
I like the handle you have, but I wonder if I should also put on a
second handle to help me keep it to the fence. I'll report back after
I have had some experience as to how I like it. Here is what it looks
like:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...trimmer001.jpg