I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey

"eclipsme" wrote in message

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Apparently that is not untypical with Jet bandsaws, doesn't usually cause a
problem, and is most likely nothing to worry about. If the blade tracks
well, in the middle of the tires, and you are satisfied with the cut, I
would leave it alone.

Many folks screw up perfectly good bandsaws obsessing with getting the
wheels exactly "co-planar".

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:31:09 -0400, eclipsme wrote:

I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:31:09 -0400, eclipsme wrote:

I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey

Measuring wheels that are not coplanar can be tricky. Coplanar wheels
are very important for wide blades and when resawing. Sometimes as
the tension is changed the wheels will change as well. This may not
be an indication of poor quality or design. You should install a wide
blade, put it under the proper tension, then measure with a
straightedge. There may be a wheel adjustment on the top wheel,
sometimes in the center. If the owner's manual does not show an
adjustment, call Jet customer support. Monday is a "holiday"--you may
have to wait until Tuesday. Anyway, congratulations on getting a band
saw! It is a wonderful machine when properly tuned, a frustration
when it needs a tune up. Buy "Band Saw Handbook" by Mark Duginske.

eclipsme wrote:
I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey
Leave it alone. I've been there, and made the mistake of "correcting" a
BS to coplaner. I had to undo the "correction". the manufacturers know
more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about coplaner
"corrections".

Dave

Sounds like a voice of experience . . .

Always wonder about some of these "tune-ups" that are needed according to
authors of Woodworking Books . . .

Would we go to Cher for piano repair and tune up expertise?


"David" wrote in message
...
eclipsme wrote:
I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey
Leave it alone. I've been there, and made the mistake of "correcting" a
BS to coplaner. I had to undo the "correction". the manufacturers know
more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about coplaner
"corrections".

Dave

Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.

Harvey

Steve DeMars wrote:
Sounds like a voice of experience . . .

Always wonder about some of these "tune-ups" that are needed according to
authors of Woodworking Books . . .

Would we go to Cher for piano repair and tune up expertise?


"David" wrote in message
...
eclipsme wrote:
I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey
Leave it alone. I've been there, and made the mistake of "correcting" a
BS to coplaner. I had to undo the "correction". the manufacturers know
more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about coplaner
"corrections".

Dave

"eclipsme" wrote in message
. ..
Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.


3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a 1/2"
on my Jet.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"eclipsme" wrote in message
. ..

Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.



3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a 1/2"
on my Jet.

I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
blade without problems.

er
--
email not valid

saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that the
blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out of
coplaner.

My new Delta is perfect. Too bad for you...

Enoch Root wrote:
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"eclipsme" wrote in message
. ..

Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.


3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a 1/2"
on my Jet.

I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
blade without problems.

er

Thanks. I may have jumped the gun on getting the blade. I saved shipping
by ordering it now. That's ok, there are lots of blades out there.

I appreciate all the helpful advice.

Harvey

Toller wrote:
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that the
blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out of
coplaner.

My new Delta is perfect. Too bad for you...



Sometimes it is difficult to restrain oneself from responding to posts
with new posts that add nothing to the general discussion.

I guess we both failed here.

Harvey

"Enoch Root" wrote in message
news:roCdnbFi76fE6N_ZnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@forethought. net...
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"eclipsme" wrote in message
. ..

Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.



3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a
1/2"
on my Jet.

I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
blade without problems.


I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady make a
huge difference, of course.

"eclipsme" wrote in message
...
Toller wrote:
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
of coplaner.

My new Delta is perfect. Too bad for you...

Sometimes it is difficult to restrain oneself from responding to posts
with new posts that add nothing to the general discussion.

I guess we both failed here.

No, just you. He said he was impressed with the Jet, since it was so much
better than the Deltas; yet he had a problem. I was just pointing out that
I avoided his problem by buying a Delta that was just fine.

George wrote:
"Enoch Root" wrote in message
news:roCdnbFi76fE6N_ZnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@forethought. net...

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"eclipsme" wrote in message
et...


Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.



3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a
1/2"
on my Jet.

I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
blade without problems.



I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady make a
huge difference, of course.

I think I'm using the same blade. Thanks.

er
--
email not valid

"Toller" wrote in message

No, just you. He said he was impressed with the Jet, since it was so much
better than the Deltas; yet he had a problem. I was just pointing out
that I avoided his problem by buying a Delta that was just fine.

No one that ever bought a Delta has had a problem? I didn't know that.
Conversely, does everyone that buys a Jet have a problem? I didn't.

Toller wrote:
"eclipsme" wrote in message
...
Toller wrote:
saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
of coplaner.
My new Delta is perfect. Too bad for you...
Sometimes it is difficult to restrain oneself from responding to posts
with new posts that add nothing to the general discussion.

I guess we both failed here.

No, just you. He said he was impressed with the Jet, since it was so much
better than the Deltas; yet he had a problem. I was just pointing out that
I avoided his problem by buying a Delta that was just fine.



I'm sorry. the 'He' that you refer to is me, and I did not say how much
better my Jet was than delta, but rather that I was aware of problems
reported with other saws, particularly Delta, and was glad that I was
finding good fit and finish with the Jet.

You were not "just pointing out" that you avoided this problem by buying
a Delta, which would have been fine, but you said "Too bad for you...",
which was both insensitive and useless in terms of information conveyed,
or rather the lack of information conveyed. You were apparently just
stroking your ego at my expense. I don't appreciate that.

Well, I don't normally take the bait, but this time I did. Oh well. You
may now have the last word, as I am done with this discussion.

Once again, I thank everyone else for your constructive comments and
suggestions.

Harvey

George wrote:
"Enoch Root" wrote in message
news:roCdnbFi76fE6N_ZnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@forethought. net...
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"eclipsme" wrote in message
. ..

Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.


3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a
1/2"
on my Jet.
I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
blade without problems.


I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady make a
huge difference, of course.



Perhaps it also depends on how often the blade is on the saw and for how
long? I would think that occasional use (such as mine) would be much
less of a potential problem for the tension spring than if the 3/4"
blade were used continuously.

Harvey

eclipsme wrote:
George wrote:

"Enoch Root" wrote in message
news:roCdnbFi76fE6N_ZnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@forethought. net...

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"eclipsme" wrote in message
. ..

Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If
that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.


3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use
a 1/2"
on my Jet.

I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
blade without problems.


I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady
make a huge difference, of course.



Perhaps it also depends on how often the blade is on the saw and for how
long? I would think that occasional use (such as mine) would be much
less of a potential problem for the tension spring than if the 3/4"
blade were used continuously.

In any case, the Ittura Bandsaw catalog has replacements, and Grizzly
keeps lots of parts (speaking to my bandsaw), and I think you may even
be able to use springs from kbctools, McMaster-Carr, and similar.

I'm thinking the "Die Springs" could be used, and are very cheap, but I
don't know if the medium or heavy duty ones are more appropriate. The
medium duty ones have a greater efficient range of deflection, the heavy
duty ones (at kbctools) offer greater loads at maximum deflection.

er
--
email not valid

No, you do not need to call anybody. That is precisely why there are so
many adjustments on the saw. Remember that the blade runs on the tires
(not the wheels themselves) and they may be very slightly cone-shaped
one way or another, just like the tires on a car. Let the tires wear in
for a while and keep it i tune and it should be fine.

Good point: as this discussion is unfoldng, I'd like to mention that
among other saws I use daily, there are two Tannewicz with 40" wheels
and we never use anything bigger than 5/8" blades, carbides or not, and
they are fine for re-sawing as long as the guide bearing is close to the
work, blade is sharp and un-kinked, and you don't turn it too hard.

Also, remember that the blade may be cone-shaped. I weld my own to
length from bulk reel stock and am always able to adjust the wheels,
guides and bearings to suit. Don't worry so much, just mount the thing
and get to work.

"RM MS" wrote in message
...
No, you do not need to call anybody. That is precisely why there are so
many adjustments on the saw. Remember that the blade runs on the tires
(not the wheels themselves) and they may be very slightly cone-shaped
one way or another, just like the tires on a car. Let the tires wear in
for a while and keep it i tune and it should be fine.


Umm, the tires are supposed to be oval and higher in the middle. This high
spot is what helps to keep the blade on the wheel. The thinner blades
naturally track towards the high spot. Saws that predominately use wider
blades tend to work better with tires with less of a high spot but for
thinner blades the high spot is what you want. A tire that is "cone-shaped"
one way or another??? If there is a low spot, cone shaped in another
way,,,,,,, the tire is probably shot.

The guy said the thing ran well otherwise except it didn't tram out, so
let it go until it throws something, if ever. I never saw so many
people worrying so much about so little . . ..

I'd also like to mention that I and 5 score people use a roomful of WW2
era equipment for 20 hrs a day, for decades now, and never seen a tyre
replaced on any of them yet.

"RM MS" wrote in message
...
I'd also like to mention that I and 5 score people use a roomful of WW2
era equipment for 20 hrs a day, for decades now, and never seen a tyre
replaced on any of them yet.


So you have seen these saws with a reverse crown on the tires?

I agree most tires last for a very long time but a new one may have a
problem. But if the saw works, like you said, enjoy the saw. A few weeks
ago another poster was talking about his Ridgid BS loosing a tire and it was
basically brand new IIRC. I returned an 18" Rikon and it had a tracking
problem with either the tires that seemed to be uneven or with the 4 new
Timberwolf blades. Oddly 2 different brand cheap-o blades tracked fine.
The 4 different sized Timberwolf blades would not track correctly.
Hopefully I will receive a new Laguna tomorrow. I bit the bullet wanting to
spend more time with cutting wood than with readjusting and tweaking all the
time to get the blade to not move forward and backward "all" of the time.

I have the Jet JWBS-14OS which is the bottom 14" saw in the line up. I had
never thought about checking for this alignment. I eyeballed the blade
tracking to run in the middle of the top wheel when I assembled the saw and
called it good. I just went to the shop and threw a straight edge on the
wheels and they are aligned very well, I could not see any gaps with the
straight edge touching the top of the top wheel and the bottom of the bottom
wheel.
I realize that my saw is not exactly like yours, but based off of what I
just looked at if your wheels really are 1/4" off coplanar I would think
there is a problem with the saw. I know that others have expressed
differing opinions and I am not an "expert". But I just don't see how it
could be off 1/4" if it is assembled correctly. If you bought the saw
locally go and measure the floor model and see if it is like the one you
have. Did you have to fully assemble your saw ?? Mine came with the cast
iron frame / wheels / blade assembled as a unit so there was no opportunity
for me to miss something that could cause a coplanar alignment issue.

Charlie


"eclipsme" wrote in message
...
I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp. after
reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new saws,
particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that the
blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out of
coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on the
upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least I
think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do I
need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey

Hello Charlie,

Mine is the JWBS-14CS. Seems to be the same saw with a different base.
As you don't see how it could be off 1/4", I don't see how this could
possibly be adjusted. Most of the saw was preassembled. I had to mount
it to the base, but the wheels, frame, etc were factory assembled, just
like yours.

I don't know if this is really a problem either, but certainly
appreciate hearing that yours is coplaner. I bought mine at Woodcraft,
by mail order. I suppose I will give them a call.

Thanks,
Harvey

Charlie H. wrote:
I have the Jet JWBS-14OS which is the bottom 14" saw in the line up. I had
never thought about checking for this alignment. I eyeballed the blade
tracking to run in the middle of the top wheel when I assembled the saw and
called it good. I just went to the shop and threw a straight edge on the
wheels and they are aligned very well, I could not see any gaps with the
straight edge touching the top of the top wheel and the bottom of the bottom
wheel.
I realize that my saw is not exactly like yours, but based off of what I
just looked at if your wheels really are 1/4" off coplanar I would think
there is a problem with the saw. I know that others have expressed
differing opinions and I am not an "expert". But I just don't see how it
could be off 1/4" if it is assembled correctly. If you bought the saw
locally go and measure the floor model and see if it is like the one you
have. Did you have to fully assemble your saw ?? Mine came with the cast
iron frame / wheels / blade assembled as a unit so there was no opportunity
for me to miss something that could cause a coplanar alignment issue.

Charlie


"eclipsme" wrote in message
...
I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp. after
reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new saws,
particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that the
blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out of
coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on the
upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least I
think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do I
need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey

"eclipsme" wrote in message
...
George wrote:
I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady make a
huge difference, of course.



Perhaps it also depends on how often the blade is on the saw and for how
long? I would think that occasional use (such as mine) would be much less
of a potential problem for the tension spring than if the 3/4" blade were
used continuously.


Well, detensioning makes a difference, I should think. Maintaining tension
will exacerbate known problems with blade work-hardening as it is
continuously bent, and any open any cracks accelerated by corrosion.

I took my lathe work blade off the saw yesterday to do some resawing - slats
for the kids' mission-style bed. It's good enough for rough work, but even
with my birthday present - Performax drum sander, it pays to have a good
blade in the saw. My son-in-law, who had never resawn before did a job that
is within one pass with a 120 belt of reality. Back to the less-than fully
sharp and narrower blade today.

eclipsme wrote:

I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their
new saws, particularly the Delta band saws.

Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels
that the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately
1/4" out of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond
centered on the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.

The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at
least I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a
problem? Do I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Thanks,
Harvey

Leave it alone. I've been there, and made the mistake of "correcting"
a BS to coplaner. I had to undo the "correction". the manufacturers
know more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
coplaner "corrections".

Dave

The problem as I see it with the majority of these responses is that the
experience of each of the responders on this and similar threads is on
one type/size/brand of bandsaw, and so their experience (adjust / not
adjust) reflects what worked well just for that saw and that operator.

But not all saws and not all operators are made alike...

I shimmed the top wheel on my Griz G0555 about .115" out to make them
coplanar and the resaw tracking became perfect. Prior to that the blade
was tracking perfectly centered on the wheels, but the saw needed
constant tweaking and I had to follow the *drift* to get straight cuts.
One of the effects of getting the wheels coplanar and tracked correctly
is (again, for some saws) straight, accurate, easy resawing with the
wood against the fence, without having to tweak to find or follow the
blade "drift". Just throw the wood on the saw and go.

Of course good blades, and good quality, well-adjusted guides are
indispensable and that is where IMO Grizzly falls down. The roller
guides that come with this saw require way too much time and effort to
properly adjust, and also can't be used with small blades. Replaced them
- what a difference. Then again, this is all just *my* experience!

SNIP
the manufacturers know
more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
coplaner "corrections".

Dave


BTW, the manual that came with my Griz bandsaw has a section on setup
and tuning *before using the bandsaw* and states that after checking the
wheels for coplanar the top wheel should be shimmed to make the wheels
coplanar. So I guess you're right, the manufacturers know more - but I
suspect they don't always tell...

George wrote:

SNIP

3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I
use a 1/2" on my Jet.

I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
blade without problems.
SNIP

I haven't looked into this at all (I use 1/2" or smaller), but I was
curious... I've seen lots of discussions about 1/2" vs. 3/4" blades, but
for us 14" owners shouldn't there be a blade that splits the difference,
like maybe a 5/8" resaw blade? That would let the weaker springs tension
it better than a 3/4, but perhaps get better cuts than 1/2"?

"Sailaway" wrote in message
...

I haven't looked into this at all (I use 1/2" or smaller), but I was
curious... I've seen lots of discussions about 1/2" vs. 3/4" blades, but
for us 14" owners shouldn't there be a blade that splits the difference,
like maybe a 5/8" resaw blade? That would let the weaker springs tension
it better than a 3/4, but perhaps get better cuts than 1/2"?

There are 5/8" blades. IIRC Timberwolf sells them in bi-metal versions.
Also my short lived Rikon BS came with a 5/8" blade.

Sailaway wrote:
SNIP
the manufacturers know
more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
coplaner "corrections".

Dave


BTW, the manual that came with my Griz bandsaw has a section on setup
and tuning *before using the bandsaw* and states that after checking the
wheels for coplanar the top wheel should be shimmed to make the wheels
coplanar. So I guess you're right, the manufacturers know more - but I
suspect they don't always tell...

Correct, they don't. The Jet only spoke of checking that the motor is
coplaner with the pully, not the blade wheels. I don't see a way of
adjusting it, and what really confused me now is a previous post
regarding the same model saw that arrived coplaner.

Harvey

Sailaway wrote:

SNIP
the manufacturers know
more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
coplaner "corrections".

Dave


BTW, the manual that came with my Griz bandsaw has a section on setup
and tuning *before using the bandsaw* and states that after checking
the wheels for coplanar the top wheel should be shimmed to make the
wheels coplanar. So I guess you're right, the manufacturers know more
- but I suspect they don't always tell...

eclipsme wrote:
Correct, they don't. The Jet only spoke of checking that the motor is
coplaner with the pully, not the blade wheels. I don't see a way of
adjusting it, and what really confused me now is a previous post
regarding the same model saw that arrived coplaner.

Harvey

One other thing the manufacturers don't tell you is weather or not your
chiwanese bandsaw has a thrust spacer between bearings inside the
upper wheel (the one you shim). Depending on the way your upper wheel is
mounted, if you shim the wheel and you do not have this spacer, you may
place undue side-load on the bearings and damage your saw during use.
The Grizzly BS (which does not have this thrust sleeve) mounts the wheel
on a shouldered bolt, and the mounting nut tightens up on the shoulder
rather than on the inside race of the bearing. If you have this type and
you shim behind the wheel to bring the wheel out (as was in my case),
the bearings will now be pressed tightly against the nut creating
side-load on the bearings - then you must have this sleeve in between
the bearings to take the load. So I had to pull the bearings and make a
sleeve. Doing these easy, relatively minor adjustments has made this
into a well behaved saw. YMMV

"eclipsme" wrote in message
Sailaway wrote:
SNIP
the manufacturers know
more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
coplaner "corrections".

Dave


BTW, the manual that came with my Griz bandsaw has a section on setup
and tuning *before using the bandsaw* and states that after checking the
wheels for coplanar the top wheel should be shimmed to make the wheels
coplanar. So I guess you're right, the manufacturers know more - but I
suspect they don't always tell...

Correct, they don't. The Jet only spoke of checking that the motor is
coplaner with the pully, not the blade wheels. I don't see a way of
adjusting it, and what really confused me now is a previous post
regarding the same model saw that arrived coplaner.


IIRC, the Ittura catalog (most likely Louis, himself) mentions that Jet
engineers claim their 14" band saw wheels are designed to NOT be co-planar.

Now, he seems to think that is BS and his argument makes sense, but he also
states that if you are going to attempt to shim a Jet co-planar (and he
recommends doing it), you need to shim the bottom wheel outward to match the
top wheel, unlike with the Delta, where the top wheel is easier to shim.

Point is that anyone who owns a Jet/Delta/Grizzly 14" should definitely call
Iturra and have them mail you a copy of their informative "catalog".

1-888-722-7078

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

I also have the Jet 14" open stand. Mine are not coplanar and the unit
came assembled in the box, the instructions say nothing on this
adjustment, and the blades seem to track fine. I don't plan on
touching mine unless I could be convinced I have a problem.

Jerry wrote:
I also have the Jet 14" open stand. Mine are not coplanar and the unit
came assembled in the box, the instructions say nothing on this
adjustment, and the blades seem to track fine. I don't plan on
touching mine unless I could be convinced I have a problem.


Thanks for the report Jerry. I wonder if you would check something for me.

See if the blade is square to the table in the direction of the line of
cut. Obviously in the other direction, you would simply adjust the
table, but in this direction, there is no adjustment.

With mine, I have found that it is out by perhaps 3 degrees, or the
depth of a tooth over about 6". Although the blade tracks well, etc,
this seems to be a much more serious issue.

I am just wondering if this is an issue brought about by the wheels not
being coplaner. If yours is square, then I will probably look at other
possibilities.

Anybody else have ideas on this?

And again, let me thank all who have provided help on this issue.
Harvey

eclipsme wrote:

See if the blade is square to the table in the direction of the line of
cut. Obviously in the other direction, you would simply adjust the
table, but in this direction, there is no adjustment.

I had/have this. It was more obvious at first, then I did something to
lessen the problem--it's still there, at 1/2 degree (+/- 5'), but it's
not pressing. Don't know what it was I did though.

er
--
email not valid

"eclipsme" wrote in message
...

I am just wondering if this is an issue brought about by the wheels not
being coplaner. If yours is square, then I will probably look at other
possibilities.

Anybody else have ideas on this?

And again, let me thank all who have provided help on this issue.
Harvey


Coplanar works in conjunction with the tracking knob. The objective with
crowned tires is to let the blade ride the crown about mid-width. If your
crowns are not coplanar at mid-adjustment, you may not have enough authority
in the tracking mechanism to achieve consistent tracking. The blades will
have a tendency to "surge" forward and than aft