As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same outlet.
Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not as think
as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some flexible
conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V
for my new bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table
saw in the future (once SWBO forgets about the bandsaw
purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the
same outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at the
same time. I'm not as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through
some flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to
be grounded?

The wording of your post indicates you need more technical
expertise than you can gain here. Call in someone with
experience.

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same
outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not
as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some
flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

I just have a 30' #10-3 extension cord that I run to my 220 volt tools as I
need them.

The wording of your post indicates you need more technical expertise than
you can gain here.

Really??

Call in someone with experience.

Don't underestimate the electrical expertise of this group.

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same
outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not
as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some
flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

You're a little vague on the requirements, but you can either purchase or
make your own extension cord for 220V. Just be sure to use the proper plugs
and receptacles for that voltage and the proper wire gauge for the current
draw of the tools and the length of the cord.

You don't necessarily need to run the wire inside metal conduit, unless you
want the added protection from mechanical abuse that such treatment would
afford. It would be best to ground that conduit on the off chance that the
hot wire shorted to it. Fred

I just have a 30' #10-3 extension cord that I run to my 220 volt tools as
I need them.


Did you purchase it as an extension cord or did you fabricate it yourself?
Do you protect it with anything? Flexible conduit?

I'm just a little squeamish of a high voltage cord on the floor of the shop.

stoutman wrote:
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same outlet.
Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not as think
as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some flexible
conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

I ran a 220v outlet (protected with a 15A breaker)to my garage from my
service panel using 10/3 romex. This supplied power to my 3 hp cabinet
saw and 15 inch planer. I purchased a 10 ga. extension cord that was
rated heavy enough to handle the 220v current and put converted the ends
to 15a. 250v plug and receptacle. My 220 line from the service panel
terminates at a single outlet about 10 feet away. I use the extension
cord then to supply the power to whichever piece of equipment I need to
use. It is absolutely essential to have an equipment ground back to
your service panel. As long as your outlet is grounded, there is no
need to run your extension cord through conduit unless you think there
is some danger of damaging the cord. I never leave my extension cord
plugged in when I leave the shop and it is never subjected to an
environment that could cause damage to it. I will say that my
installation is temporary until I get my shop built. A permanent
installation would be done differently.

Martie

In article , "stoutman" .@.
wrote:

I just have a 30' #10-3 extension cord that I run to my 220 volt tools as
I need them.


Did you purchase it as an extension cord or did you fabricate it yourself?
Do you protect it with anything? Flexible conduit?

I'm just a little squeamish of a high voltage cord on the floor of the shop.

Naaa.. it's just 220 volt. The rest of the world run their entire
households on 220. We're talking toasters, TV's, every-day stuff.
The US and Canada, and perhaps a small province in Africa are the only
ones running on 110 AFAIK.

Have you ever tried to cut a 10 gauge 'cord' to make an extension?
That's enforced, tough stuff.

No worries, stoutperson, although a healthy respect for anything over 12
volts is wise.

r

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I just have a 30' #10-3 extension cord that I run to my 220 volt tools as
I need them.


Did you purchase it as an extension cord or did you fabricate it yourself?
Do you protect it with anything? Flexible conduit?

I'm just a little squeamish of a high voltage cord on the floor of the
shop.

Good Lord, man....it's 220, not the transformer primary on the floor ;-).
If it was me, I'd consider just wiring another outlet on the same circuit.

todd

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I just have a 30' #10-3 extension cord that I run to my 220 volt tools as
I need them.


Did you purchase it as an extension cord or did you fabricate it yourself?
Do you protect it with anything? Flexible conduit?

I made it my self.



I'm just a little squeamish of a high voltage cord on the floor of the
shop.
Well it is actually only 2, 110 volts lines running in the same insulation.
The rubber insulation is very tough. 6 years old and looks like new.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

No worries, stoutperson, although a healthy respect for anything over 12
volts is wise.

I was in a sporting goods store about umm 20 years ago and spied a 69 volt
battery. It was about 12" long and 2" square. The positive and negative
terminals were on top and unshielded.
Naturally I put my finger across both terminals and said bad words loudly.
:~)

In short, Go to the borg and buy a 25' heavy duty 10ga extension cord. Hard
wire it to the TS and put a 220v plug on the other end. A 10ga 3conductor
cord at 220v can handle 35amps, way more than a TS will need. Remember
voltage doesn't determiine the size of the wire you need, amperage does. An
average 110v 1hp motor draws approx 15amps at 3450rpm. All hings being
equal a 220v 1hp motor draws 7.5amps. See the point? I strongly recommend
against using metal conduit. If you did you'd definitely need to ground it
for safety. With my jointer, I keep the wire coiled up until I need it so it
doesn't get ruined. If you looking at a semi permanent install, and really
want to use conduit, then use hard conduit not flexible. There would be less
chance of damaging the cable inside.

And for the guy who thinks the question is too technical for this NG,
remember almost everyone here has a day job too. Mine has been 21 years in
the Navy as an electronics technician and special warfare operator... This
electrical stuff is childs play for me, the woodworking kicks my butt
though, but I'm learning.
Rich Harris

--
"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same
outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not
as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some
flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

When I had a 220V circuit added for my shop I had the electrician put in
an outlet at a convenient location and told him I wanted a 20ft. cord. I
just
move the cord wherever I need it. I purchased one of those rubber/plastic
covers that sits flat on the floor and protects the cord. There are
probably
better ways to do this but this one is convenient and, I think, safe. As
other
posters have said in this thread, you could make the cord yourself as long
as you get the right materials and plugs.


"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same
outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not
as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some
flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

I don't think Pop5 was suggesting people in the NG could not answer the
question. I think he was commenting on how the question was asked. I
believe his point was if you don't know how to ask the question you're not
going to understand the answer.


"Rich" wrote in message
news:%vLSf.67$8G2.30@trndny01...
In short, Go to the borg and buy a 25' heavy duty 10ga extension cord.
Hard wire it to the TS and put a 220v plug on the other end. A 10ga
3conductor cord at 220v can handle 35amps, way more than a TS will need.
Remember voltage doesn't determiine the size of the wire you need,
amperage does. An average 110v 1hp motor draws approx 15amps at 3450rpm.
All hings being equal a 220v 1hp motor draws 7.5amps. See the point? I
strongly recommend against using metal conduit. If you did you'd
definitely need to ground it for safety. With my jointer, I keep the wire
coiled up until I need it so it doesn't get ruined. If you looking at a
semi permanent install, and really want to use conduit, then use hard
conduit not flexible. There would be less chance of damaging the cable
inside.

And for the guy who thinks the question is too technical for this NG,
remember almost everyone here has a day job too. Mine has been 21 years in
the Navy as an electronics technician and special warfare operator... This
electrical stuff is childs play for me, the woodworking kicks my butt
though, but I'm learning.
Rich Harris

--
"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same
outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm
not as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some
flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

I don't think Pop5 was suggesting people in the NG could not answer the
question. I think he was commenting on how the question was asked. I
believe his point was if you don't know how to ask the question you're not
going to understand the answer.


I think I asked the question correctly because my question was answered.

And yes, I understood the answer.

Thanks for caring!

One more thing: If you can not comprehend my question, by God don't answer
it!

I don't want electrical advice from someone that can't understand a simple
question.

You don't need to spend the money for a heavy duty extension cord. As
Rich said in his post, wiring for 220 means your tools will be drawing
half the current they do now. Even a cheap 16 gauge cord would likely
handle your bandsaw. A 14 gauge would handle your tablesaw very
easily.

More voltage = less current. That's why super-high voltage
transmission lines can supply electricity for thousands of households
and businesses with relatively skinny wires.

Josh

stoutman wrote:
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same outlet.
Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not as think
as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some flexible
conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

stoutman wrote:
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same outlet.
Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not as think
as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some flexible
conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

Sure you can. And no, you can put an extension
cord in anything you like. As part of the house
wiring (which an extension cord isn't) you likely
need to ground the conduit. You're a wood worker,
so route a extension cord diameter slot in a piece
of 1by to cover the cord. If it were me, and I
have already done it, I wouldn't surface mount a
piece of regular house cable 10-12 gauge and cover
it with a protective wood cover, as above.

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
news
The wording of your post indicates you need more technical
expertise than you can gain here.

Really??

Call in someone with experience.

Don't underestimate the electrical expertise of this group.


Nope, I don't; I do however sometimes worry about the ability of
some to follow/understand the expertise on this board. Any work
with electrical components requires some fundamental
understanding of its working and the attendent safety
requirements.

The expertise here for the most part is VG to EX.

Pop

"Martie in MO" wrote in message
. ..
stoutman wrote:
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V
for my new bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table
saw in the future (once SWBO forgets about the bandsaw
purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from
the same outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at
the same time. I'm not as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through
some flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need
to be grounded?

Thanks

I ran a 220v outlet (protected with a 15A breaker)to my garage
from my service panel using 10/3 romex. This supplied power to
my 3 hp cabinet saw and 15 inch planer. I purchased a 10 ga.
extension cord that was rated heavy enough to handle the 220v
current and put converted the ends to 15a. 250v plug and
receptacle. My 220 line from the service panel terminates at a
single outlet about 10 feet away. I use the extension cord
then to supply the power to whichever piece of equipment I need
to use. It is absolutely essential to have an equipment ground
back to your service panel. As long as your outlet is
grounded, there is no need to run your extension cord through
conduit unless you think there is some danger of damaging the
cord. I never leave my extension cord plugged in when I leave
the shop and it is never subjected to an environment that could
cause damage to it. I will say that my installation is
temporary until I get my shop built. A permanent installation
would be done differently.

Martie

Here's a thought for your rewi Consider a set of switches
near the door to control Main Power to the shop. That way when
you leave the shop you can kill the majority of power to it from
those switches. That way there aren't so many things to "check"
as you leave, and you can kill it all from right there.
Especially handy for the lights and most, not all, ckts can
usually be done that way.
I used a couple or relays to prevent adding long wire runs
just to have the switches. Best case, IMO, would be to use
relays for all of it and a doorbell xfmr to control the relays;
easier to wire and no added wire lengths.
Lines I didn't switch, I added a nightlight to one outlet. I
hate having to go into the shop to see if I turned everything
off.
220 of course, well, that shouldn't be switched IMO.

I've said this before and will say it again. There are three types of
electrical advice you will get on this group. (1) Right. (2) Wrong. (3)
Dangerous. If you have to ask, you aren't qualified to know the difference
and should consult an electrician before you burn your house down/kill
yourself.

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
news ..

Don't underestimate the electrical expertise of this group.

I've said this before and will say it again. There are three types of
electrical advice you will get on this group. (1) Right. (2) Wrong. (3)
Dangerous. If you have to ask, you aren't qualified to know the difference
and should consult an electrician before you burn your house down/kill
yourself.

The same could be said for woodworking advice! (1) Right. (2) Wrong. (3)
Dangerous. If you have to ask, you aren't qualified to know the difference.

Maybe we should abandon this forum!

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I just have a 30' #10-3 extension cord that I run to my 220 volt tools
as
I need them.


Did you purchase it as an extension cord or did you fabricate it yourself?
Do you protect it with anything? Flexible conduit?

I'm just a little squeamish of a high voltage cord on the floor of the
shop.



Ever been to a rock concert? An outdoor event with large scale PA systems?
A carnival? Ever notice those big thick black electrical cords that
everyone is trudgin over? Tens of thousands of feet daily. Laying in mud
puddles.

Get the right stuff and your fears will be moot. You don't need the same
heavy cords that I just referenced but the point is that armor cladding is
not necessary for what you're doing. Talk to an electrician. Go to an
electrical supply house - a real one. Tell them what you're looking to do
and ask them what the properly rated insulation would be for you.

I'm sure someone here can tell you. There are some real live electricians
here and there are some hacks like me who know a few to a lot of things.
Sometimes ya takes yer chances with the advice you see here because you
don't always know who really knows what they're talking about and who is
just talking. Go to a pro and you'll stand your best chance of getting the
right scoop.

If you're squeamish I don't understand why you would ask a question like
this of a woodworking group. Squeamish is good, but why not go to the right
source and then you'll really know.

--

-Mike-

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

No worries, stoutperson, although a healthy respect for anything over 12
volts is wise.

I was in a sporting goods store about umm 20 years ago and spied a 69 volt
battery. It was about 12" long and 2" square. The positive and negative
terminals were on top and unshielded.
Naturally I put my finger across both terminals and said bad words loudly.
:~)




I'd have loved to have seen that. Really. I could almost see myself as
having done something similar. Now I know for sure - you are the kind of
guy that pee'd on an electric fence, just to see...

--

-Mike-

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
One more thing: If you can not comprehend my question, by God don't
answer
it!

I don't want electrical advice from someone that can't understand a simple
question.



Oh great. Now reading comprehension counts. What's next, a test? Crap. I
hate tests.

--

-Mike-

Leon wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

No worries, stoutperson, although a healthy respect for anything over 12
volts is wise.


I was in a sporting goods store about umm 20 years ago and spied a 69 volt
battery. It was about 12" long and 2" square. The positive and negative
terminals were on top and unshielded.
Naturally I put my finger across both terminals and said bad words loudly.
:~)

Fingers on the same hand? There may be more efficient pathways from one
hand to the other than one through the heart, but--sheesh!

er
--
email not valid

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I've said this before and will say it again. There are three
types of
electrical advice you will get on this group. (1) Right. (2)
Wrong. (3)
Dangerous. If you have to ask, you aren't qualified to know
the difference
and should consult an electrician before you burn your house
down/kill
yourself.

The same could be said for woodworking advice! (1) Right. (2)
Wrong. (3) Dangerous. If you have to ask, you aren't qualified
to know the difference.

Maybe we should abandon this forum!



Umm, isn't that the same thing you're responding to?
And, IMO, there ARE a couple in particular who should abandon
this group. That said, it's the self-healing aspect of most
newsgroups that makes them good. This group is pretty good at
self-healing for the most part.
Pop

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...

No worries, stoutperson, although a healthy respect for
anything over 12
volts is wise.

I was in a sporting goods store about umm 20 years ago and
spied a 69 volt
battery. It was about 12" long and 2" square. The positive
and negative
terminals were on top and unshielded.
Naturally I put my finger across both terminals and said bad
words loudly.
:~)




I'd have loved to have seen that. Really. I could almost see
myself as
having done something similar. Now I know for sure - you are
the kind of
guy that pee'd on an electric fence, just to see...

--

-Mike-



Never peed on one, but once as a teen hunting, I did come up from
under a barbed wire fence in the brush and placed my sweaty
forehead nice & tight against a wire fence just as the pulser
turned on. I thought my buddy had clubbed my with his gun butt!
And was ready to aim my gun at him until I saw the confused look
on his face! What an experience!
Live & learn; if you're lucky enough.

Pop

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
One more thing: If you can not comprehend my question, by God
don't
answer
it!

I don't want electrical advice from someone that can't
understand a simple
question.



Oh great. Now reading comprehension counts. What's next, a
test? Crap. I
hate tests.

--

-Mike-




Fret not; they'll be true/false and most of the answers will be
"C". g
Pop

Yes, maybe YOU should.

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
Maybe we should abandon this forum!

Josh your absolutely correct. The main reason I recommend a heavy duty cord
is more for wear resistance than current capability. A good heavy duty cord
from the borg costs around $25.00 and will last allot longer in a shop
environment.
Rich

"Josh" wrote in message
oups.com...
You don't need to spend the money for a heavy duty extension cord. As
Rich said in his post, wiring for 220 means your tools will be drawing
half the current they do now. Even a cheap 16 gauge cord would likely
handle your bandsaw. A 14 gauge would handle your tablesaw very
easily.

More voltage = less current. That's why super-high voltage
transmission lines can supply electricity for thousands of households
and businesses with relatively skinny wires.

Josh

stoutman wrote:
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same
outlet.
Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not as
think
as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some
flexible
conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

"CW" wrote in message
ink.net...
Yes, maybe YOU should.

Right back at ya sport!

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

In article iSWSf.1203$yo1.510@trndny09,
"PopS" wrote:

Never peed on one, but once as a teen hunting, I did come up from
under a barbed wire fence in the brush and placed my sweaty
forehead nice & tight against a wire fence just as the pulser
turned on. I thought my buddy had clubbed my with his gun butt!
And was ready to aim my gun at him until I saw the confused look
on his face!

Maybe THAT is what happened with Cheney?

"Enoch Root" wrote in message
...

Fingers on the same hand? There may be more efficient pathways from one
hand to the other than one through the heart, but--shee


FINGER singular, on hand. The terminals were about 1" apart.

I have a two-headed extension cord that feeds my BS and jointer. It cost me
about $20 in material to make. If you have an electrical supply place near
by they have some much nicer stuff than the borg. They had some really nice
heavy weight (10 or 12 gauge) with a thick but soft plyable rubber outer
casing that makes a very nice tool cord. IIRC is was only 27cents/ft.

The female end is just a metal box with two 220V recepticles. Simple an
effective.

-Steve


"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new
bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once
SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same
outlet.
Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not as
think
as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some
flexible
conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

Leon wrote:
"Enoch Root" wrote in message
...

Fingers on the same hand? There may be more efficient pathways from one
hand to the other than one through the heart, but--shee

FINGER singular, on hand. The terminals were about 1" apart.

Whew. You said it was a 12" battery and I figured the terminals were on
opposite ends.

er
--
email not valid

On 2006-03-17 16:35:25 -0800, "stoutman" .@. said:

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same
outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm
not as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some
flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

What I have elected to do is to install a single duplex NEMA 6-20R
receptacle in the wall.

12-2+G to the receptacle.

20 A breaker for the branch circuit.

Each machine has a long cordset, usually SOOW (extreme service, oil and
water resistant), and a NEMA 6-15P or 6-20P, as required.

I do have a couple of "extension cords", 6-20P to 6-20R, 12-2+G SOOW
for special cases (table saw outside cutting dozens of boards).

SOOW is also available in #10 (down to #2, actually).

The 240 volt receptacle I use is a Hubbell 5462 (also subbed by Leviton
and others), which is an all-nylon extreme service type. These accept
both NEMA 6-15 and 6-20 plugs.

For 120 volts, I use a Hubbell 5262 receptacles, also an all-nylon
extreme service type.

Expect to pay about $16, list, for a 5462 (about half that for a 5262),
but also expect these to last a lifetime.

In article , stoutman .@. wrote:
I've said this before and will say it again. There are three types of
electrical advice you will get on this group. (1) Right. (2) Wrong. (3)
Dangerous. If you have to ask, you aren't qualified to know the difference
and should consult an electrician before you burn your house down/kill
yourself.

The same could be said for woodworking advice! (1) Right. (2) Wrong. (3)
Dangerous. If you have to ask, you aren't qualified to know the difference.

Maybe we should abandon this forum!



"Forum"??? That's what you use for containing a containing concrete when you
pour it, isn't it?

They definitely should be abandoned -- the wet concrete ruins the surface of
the wood. It's usually not good for firewood, either.

"Forum"??? That's what you use for containing a containing concrete when
you
pour it, isn't it?

They definitely should be abandoned -- the wet concrete ruins the surface
of
the wood. It's usually not good for firewood, either.


Oy Vey!

"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
...

"Forum"??? That's what you use for containing a containing concrete when
you
pour it, isn't it?

No that is "Form"

Forum is a quantity. I want forum. 1 for me, 1 for joe, 1 for bill, and 1
for ted. Gimme forum, please.



They definitely should be abandoned -- the wet concrete ruins the surface
of
the wood. It's usually not good for firewood, either.