I just received some samples of Corian (1/2" thick) and was wondering about
cutting the stuff.

I see some circular blades that are suggested and it looks like carbide
router bits will do the job as well for edge finishing etc. (I have a
Systimatic triple chip plastics blade....any good for it?)

What are personal experiences with this material?

Blade life? Blade recommendations? Easy/difficult?

Will the edges finish in a jointer?

Do you wet sand?

Thanks for any Corian tips.

Michael wrote:

I just received some samples of Corian (1/2" thick) and was
wondering about cutting the stuff.

I see some circular blades that are suggested and it looks like
carbide router bits will do the job as well for edge finishing
etc. (I have a Systimatic triple chip plastics blade....any good
for it?)

What are personal experiences with this material?

Blade life? Blade recommendations? Easy/difficult?

Will the edges finish in a jointer?

Do you wet sand?

Thanks for any Corian tips.

Not to be a prick (although it's certainly in my nature), have you
EVEN done any Google searches on the matter? Surely many folks have
laid out much information on working with Corian, and with a tiny
little bit of effort, that information can be at your disposal in
seconds.

Joe Barta

"Joe Barta" wrote in message
.. .

Not to be a prick (although it's certainly in my nature), have you
EVEN done any Google searches on the matter? Surely many folks have
laid out much information on working with Corian, and with a tiny
little bit of effort, that information can be at your disposal in
seconds.


You could make the same statement about the majority of posts in the NG.
What about the OP got you so riled up?

Frank Drackman wrote:


"Joe Barta" wrote in message
.. .

Not to be a prick (although it's certainly in my nature), have
you EVEN done any Google searches on the matter? Surely many
folks have laid out much information on working with Corian, and
with a tiny little bit of effort, that information can be at your
disposal in seconds.


You could make the same statement about the majority of posts in
the NG. What about the OP got you so riled up?

It was a request for general information. Sort of like... "I'm
thinking of buying some woodworking tools and I'm wondering what stuff
like saws, drills and planes all do." Ok, maybe it wasn't *that*
general, but you get my point. And I'm not riled up dammit!

Joe Barta

Hey Joe... they are fighting this war on the topic hvlp.

Some say DAGS, some say who ****ed in your Wheaties?

This is a familiar topic too, you know.

As far as Mr, MIchael goes.... PING Robatoy and see if he wants to come
out and play.

Robert

I'm not ****ed off either.


Sombitch.

"Michael" wrote in message
...
I just received some samples of Corian (1/2" thick) and was wondering about
cutting the stuff.

I see some circular blades that are suggested and it looks like carbide
router bits will do the job as well for edge finishing etc. (I have a
Systimatic triple chip plastics blade....any good for it?)

What are personal experiences with this material?

Blade life? Blade recommendations? Easy/difficult?

Will the edges finish in a jointer?

Do you wet sand?

Thanks for any Corian tips.
I just made a router table out of corian. It works pretty much like a hard
wood. Cuts, routes, drills easily enough. People caution you about the
dust, but I didn't find it all that bad.
I didn't try to joint or fine sand it; but since it routes easily, I expect
it would joint just as well.

Some people do worry about the dust, but when I posted my corian question
some time back, somebody addressed the dust (rather impressively) citing
several studies that it's completely harmless.

The bad news is the dust makes a big mess. The good news is that it is
fairly heavy dust and will settle quickly.

Other than that, treat corian like hard wood. Sharp carbide is the way to
go.

jc

"Toller" wrote in message
...

"Michael" wrote in message
...
I just received some samples of Corian (1/2" thick) and was wondering
about cutting the stuff.

I see some circular blades that are suggested and it looks like carbide
router bits will do the job as well for edge finishing etc. (I have a
Systimatic triple chip plastics blade....any good for it?)

What are personal experiences with this material?

Blade life? Blade recommendations? Easy/difficult?

Will the edges finish in a jointer?

Do you wet sand?

Thanks for any Corian tips.
I just made a router table out of corian. It works pretty much like a
hard wood. Cuts, routes, drills easily enough. People caution you about
the dust, but I didn't find it all that bad.
I didn't try to joint or fine sand it; but since it routes easily, I
expect it would joint just as well.

Maybe too much coffee!

"Joe Barta" wrote in message
.. .
Frank Drackman wrote:


"Joe Barta" wrote in message
.. .

Not to be a prick (although it's certainly in my nature), have
you EVEN done any Google searches on the matter? Surely many
folks have laid out much information on working with Corian, and
with a tiny little bit of effort, that information can be at your
disposal in seconds.


You could make the same statement about the majority of posts in
the NG. What about the OP got you so riled up?

It was a request for general information. Sort of like... "I'm
thinking of buying some woodworking tools and I'm wondering what stuff
like saws, drills and planes all do." Ok, maybe it wasn't *that*
general, but you get my point. And I'm not riled up dammit!

Joe Barta

"Joe Barta" wrote in message
.. .
Frank Drackman wrote:


"Joe Barta" wrote in message
.. .

Not to be a prick (although it's certainly in my nature), have
you EVEN done any Google searches on the matter? Surely many
folks have laid out much information on working with Corian, and
with a tiny little bit of effort, that information can be at your
disposal in seconds.


You could make the same statement about the majority of posts in
the NG. What about the OP got you so riled up?

It was a request for general information. Sort of like... "I'm
thinking of buying some woodworking tools and I'm wondering what stuff
like saws, drills and planes all do." Ok, maybe it wasn't *that*
general, but you get my point. And I'm not riled up dammit!

Joe Barta

I like your style. I am still laughing at "And I'm not riled up dammit!"

Thanks.....(the stuff has such a hard feel to it, it makes one
apprehensive).

And Joe Blow.....I wouldn't have asked if I hadn't spent an hour searching.

Besides, I was asking about "personal experiences" and that's worth more
than "generalized" information.

If you don't mean to be a prick...then don't be one.

I wanted to re-post a link, but the link is dead now.

Some lady started out making 2 inch squares of Corian with an inlay
decoration.
Here is a similar link:
http://www.woodcabs.com/Showroom%20A...0Inlay_JPG.htm
This lady was selling the 2" squares to contactors to install on back
splashes.
Google search term for an Image search: Inlay with Corian.

BTW, my personal recommendation - do most of your finish sanding before
machining. Then cover the entire surface (Front and back) with blue
painter's tape. Use wet / dry sandpaper from Auto parts store. Finish with
liquid auto finish polish like Meguire's (takes a waxy shine real good.)
Don't finish with normal WW finishes.

Also keep in mind HEAT is your enemy. If the cutting edge of your power
tool heats up the Corian (or more general term Nairoc material) too much the
chips will not clear the kerf but will re-melt back to the surface of the
Corian. Expect the cutting edge of your tools to dull faster than when
cutting plywood. Remove chips and cutting dust as best you can with shop
Vac or DC to keep the waste away from your power tool cutting edge to help
reduce chance of heat build up.

Phil


"Michael" wrote in message
...
I just received some samples of Corian (1/2" thick) and was wondering about
cutting the stuff.

I see some circular blades that are suggested and it looks like carbide
router bits will do the job as well for edge finishing etc. (I have a
Systimatic triple chip plastics blade....any good for it?)

What are personal experiences with this material?

Blade life? Blade recommendations? Easy/difficult?

Will the edges finish in a jointer?

Do you wet sand?

Thanks for any Corian tips.

Mike,

One can easily cut solid surface with a triple-chip plastic blade and route
it with any carbide bits. It will even cut with a jig saw, but some solid
surface products will quickly dull a blade. Often it's easier to make a
rough cut with a router and sand it to exact size. You'll usually get a
much smoother edge this way. To polish it, one uses a succession of finer
grit sanding disks ranging from 220 to 1200 and finishing it off with the
white scotchbrite pads. If a matte finish is desired, one can stop at any
point before reaching 1200 grit. As for dust, my wife will testify that it
seems to reach every corner of the house despite every attempt using a dust
collection system and shop vac. I am not certain that it's all that heavy
as it estimates the consistency and density of flour and seems to float in
the air for quite some time. Despite the dust, the resulting countertops
are often quite nice, so, for me, it's fun to work with.

Good luck,



"Michael" wrote in message
...
Thanks.....(the stuff has such a hard feel to it, it makes one
apprehensive).

And Joe Blow.....I wouldn't have asked if I hadn't spent an hour
searching.

Besides, I was asking about "personal experiences" and that's worth more
than "generalized" information.

If you don't mean to be a prick...then don't be one.

In article ,
"Michael" wrote:

I just received some samples of Corian (1/2" thick) and was wondering about
cutting the stuff.

I see some circular blades that are suggested and it looks like carbide
router bits will do the job as well for edge finishing etc. (I have a
Systimatic triple chip plastics blade....any good for it?)

Use a 40 (or more) toothed TCG with a 5 degree negative hook and lots of
horsepower. Control your feedrate and do not stop the feed during a rip.
Elevate the blade so that the three highest teeth protrude above the
material.

What are personal experiences with this material?

Extensive. I got into this game when there were only 4 colours. (Four)

Blade life? Blade recommendations? Easy/difficult?

I use Royce-Ayr. (http://www.royceayr.com/Home.shtml)

The Pinske Edge (http://www.pinske-edge.com) will sell you some great
blades as well. Theirs has a 20-degree hook TCG and some guys love it.

Will the edges finish in a jointer?

HSS edges will dull IOFOAH. Carbide only, please.

Do you wet sand?

Never

Thanks for any Corian tips.

You're welcome.

Rob (Chief Cook and Bottle washer)

http://www.topworks.ca

On Sat, 11 Feb 2006 23:05:01 -0500, Robatoy
wrote:

In article ,
"Michael" wrote:

I just received some samples of Corian (1/2" thick) and was wondering about
cutting the stuff.

I see some circular blades that are suggested and it looks like carbide
router bits will do the job as well for edge finishing etc. (I have a
Systimatic triple chip plastics blade....any good for it?)

Use a 40 (or more) toothed TCG with a 5 degree negative hook and lots of
horsepower. Control your feedrate and do not stop the feed during a rip.
Elevate the blade so that the three highest teeth protrude above the
material.

What are personal experiences with this material?

Extensive. I got into this game when there were only 4 colours. (Four)

Blade life? Blade recommendations? Easy/difficult?

I use Royce-Ayr. (http://www.royceayr.com/Home.shtml)

The Pinske Edge (http://www.pinske-edge.com) will sell you some great
blades as well. Theirs has a 20-degree hook TCG and some guys love it.

Will the edges finish in a jointer?

HSS edges will dull IOFOAH. Carbide only, please.

Do you wet sand?

Never

Thanks for any Corian tips.

You're welcome.

Rob (Chief Cook and Bottle washer)

http://www.topworks.ca


The breakthrough in solid surface I'm looking for is to be able to buy
it in countertop sizes for DIY use without having to go through the
liscencing process.

I'm not trying to bootleg contract jobs and make the manufacturer
assume warranty for any lousy work I might do, I just would like to
make my own countertops. I'm willing to take responsibility and hold
the manufacturer harmless for any mistakes I make on my own tops.

I wonder when that will come.

Frank

Frank:

IIRC, it is not the Corian, it is the glue / joint sealer sold by DuPont to
join up two half's that is the problem.
Nasty stuff and easy to mess up. Lots of potential for law suits for leaky
counter tops. Deep pockets and all that compared to Counter top installer's
pockets.

I have seen Corian, well actually not DuPont Product so I should say Nairoc,
solid counter top 60 inches long in a big box home center. Install your
self, but at $25.00 per sq foot, so it was $$$$.


"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 11 Feb 2006 23:05:01 -0500, Robatoy
wrote:

The breakthrough in solid surface I'm looking for is to be able to buy
it in countertop sizes for DIY use without having to go through the
liscencing process.

I'm not trying to bootleg contract jobs and make the manufacturer
assume warranty for any lousy work I might do, I just would like to
make my own countertops. I'm willing to take responsibility and hold
the manufacturer harmless for any mistakes I make on my own tops.

I wonder when that will come.

Frank

Michael, it's not bad to work. I've worked it with bandsaw, scrollsaw,
router, and tablesaw. There are special Corian tablesaw blades, but
other than that it's like the OP said, it works pretty much like hard
wood.

Cutting boards are fun, easy, and make nice gifts.

See http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/Work...toAlbum22.html for
examples of stuff I've made.

Hint: find out who fabricates it in your area, and pay them a visit.
You can usually find one by stopping in a custom kitchen place and
asking. They'll probably give you all kinds of cutoffs, and since it
costs about $10 per sq ft, it's nice to get it free. I always went back
with a gift for the folks in the shop -- a cutting board, small statue,
or such.

PS: It *does* raise a lot of dust, and it gives off a methacrylate
smell when it's cut. I've had my fun with it, but I like working wood a
lot more.

In article , Michael
wrote:

I just received some samples of Corian (1/2" thick) and was wondering about
cutting the stuff.

I see some circular blades that are suggested and it looks like carbide
router bits will do the job as well for edge finishing etc. (I have a
Systimatic triple chip plastics blade....any good for it?)

What are personal experiences with this material?

Blade life? Blade recommendations? Easy/difficult?

Will the edges finish in a jointer?

Do you wet sand?

Thanks for any Corian tips.


--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

In article .net,
"Phil-in-MI" NO Spam & pam wrote:

Frank:

IIRC, it is not the Corian, it is the glue / joint sealer sold by DuPont to
join up two half's that is the problem.
Nasty stuff and easy to mess up.

If I may... The adhesive technology for many of the solid surface
products comes from a small group of companies. LocWeld and the like.
One needs to understand the differences between adhesion and cohesion,
and in some cases a combination of both. Joints need to be in proper
places and prepared properly. There is a lot more to it than meets the
eye. A proper solid surface company will not just back up their product,
but their fabricators as well. Wilsonart and Staron are such companies.
The customers will never be left hanging.

A lot of the "Me Too' products will not offer that kind of back up.

Lots of potential for law suits for leaky
counter tops. Deep pockets and all that compared to Counter top installer's
pockets.

Any fabricator/installer should have a few million in insurance. You'd
be nuts to go into people's houses and work on their kitchen without it.

I have seen Corian, well actually not DuPont Product so I should say Nairoc,
solid counter top 60 inches long in a big box home center. Install your
self, but at $25.00 per sq foot, so it was $$$$.

There are many acrylic solid surface countertop products which are
impossible to tell apart from Corian...even by a well equipped chemist.

In article ,
Frank Boettcher wrote:

The breakthrough in solid surface I'm looking for is to be able to buy
it in countertop sizes for DIY use without having to go through the
liscencing process.

Those processes protect the customer and the manufacturer and the
fabricator/installer.
The license approach has come about after other systems didn't work.

There is a lot a fabricator has to know about the products. The
adhesives are not to be played with by amateurs, and any other adhesive
technology just won't do the job. Disposal of used tubes costs me quite
a bit of money each year.

I'm not trying to bootleg contract jobs and make the manufacturer
assume warranty for any lousy work I might do, I just would like to
make my own countertops. I'm willing to take responsibility and hold
the manufacturer harmless for any mistakes I make on my own tops.

They accept some responsibilities when they sell you the product. I
don't blame them for playing these cards close to their vests.

I wonder when that will come.

I hope never. Having said that, there are quite a few manufacturers who
will sell to anybody. The ones that matter, those who have the
reputation of quality, will never sell direct.
Imagine a company like mine promoting a product like Nairoc (Corian
spelled backwards) and customers going out getting their own after I put
my endorsement out there? How long do you think I will keep promoting
such a product? That same supplier will also look at the quantities I
order vs the one or two he can sell screwing my relationship with them?
It's a no-brainer.... on both sides of the fence.

Frank

On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 22:44:09 -0500, Robatoy
wrote:

In article ,
Frank Boettcher wrote:

The breakthrough in solid surface I'm looking for is to be able to buy
it in countertop sizes for DIY use without having to go through the
liscencing process.

Those processes protect the customer and the manufacturer and the
fabricator/installer.
The license approach has come about after other systems didn't work.

There is a lot a fabricator has to know about the products. The
adhesives are not to be played with by amateurs, and any other adhesive
technology just won't do the job. Disposal of used tubes costs me quite
a bit of money each year.

I'm not trying to bootleg contract jobs and make the manufacturer
assume warranty for any lousy work I might do, I just would like to
make my own countertops. I'm willing to take responsibility and hold
the manufacturer harmless for any mistakes I make on my own tops.

They accept some responsibilities when they sell you the product. I
don't blame them for playing these cards close to their vests.

I wonder when that will come.

I hope never. Having said that, there are quite a few manufacturers who
will sell to anybody. The ones that matter, those who have the
reputation of quality, will never sell direct.
Imagine a company like mine promoting a product like Nairoc (Corian
spelled backwards) and customers going out getting their own after I put
my endorsement out there? How long do you think I will keep promoting
such a product? That same supplier will also look at the quantities I
order vs the one or two he can sell screwing my relationship with them?
It's a no-brainer.... on both sides of the fence.

Frank


While there is validity to all of your comments, I can't help but
believe that the main purpose is to keep the price up and create an
exclusive environment.

Dupont sells, directly to the public, Imron catalyzed polyurethane, a
much more dangerous to the user substance, and they don't seem to
worry about the legal implications with that.

Their concern about warranty issue and backing their liscenced
fabricators and installers is legitimate and appropriate. I just
believe there should be a" buyers beware" market for the DIYer.

I've worked with it a little with small scale projects to know, while
not without a requirement for skill, planning and knowledge, it is not
rocket science.

Frank

In article ,
Frank Boettcher wrote:

....

The breakthrough in solid surface I'm looking for is to be able to buy
it in countertop sizes for DIY use without having to go through the
liscencing process.

....
I wonder when that will come.

The material, easy. The glue, much tougher

http://cgi.ebay.com/Corian-Solid-Sur...-SQUARE-FOOT_W
0QQitemZ7589196943QQcategoryZ46572QQssPageNameZWDV WQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The local shops will also sell material to me, sans glue

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

In article ,
Frank Boettcher wrote:

Dupont sells, directly to the public, Imron catalyzed polyurethane, a
much more dangerous to the user substance, and they don't seem to
worry about the legal implications with that.

You make an excellent point. Why DO they sell Imron and its associated
hardeners to the public? That **** will kill you.
Corian adhesive is relatively harmless in comparison.

On Mon, 13 Feb 2006 18:27:36 -0500, Robatoy
wrote:

In article ,
Frank Boettcher wrote:

Dupont sells, directly to the public, Imron catalyzed polyurethane, a
much more dangerous to the user substance, and they don't seem to
worry about the legal implications with that.

You make an excellent point. Why DO they sell Imron and its associated
hardeners to the public? That **** will kill you.
Corian adhesive is relatively harmless in comparison.


Don't know. I know some auto body guys who won't even shoot it. I've
used it a couple of times, once for a boat and once for a truck,
however I always used a proper NIOSH respirator and the boat was done
outdoors. But it is bad stuff if you're not careful.

You just have to hope the body shop supply guys are telling people
what they are buying.

Frank

A lot of things will kill you if you don't use/do them responsibly. Would
you feel better if they started requiring a note from your parents?

"Robatoy" wrote in message news:design-
You make an excellent point. Why DO they sell Imron and its associated
hardeners to the public? That **** will kill you.
Corian adhesive is relatively harmless in comparison.