I've never had a problem with thin CA and a light touch with a sharp skew.
I HAVE had problems with any thick adhesives or heating up the Corian as
I've turned it. The heat will certainly cause the CA to fail. The thin CA
also allows you to get a tighter fit so that, with many Corian styles, the
seams are almost invisible.

I've been making around a dozen pens/pencils and a few miniature bowls,
boxes, hollowforms for the area solid surface mfg. company per month for the
past 8 months. That's where I get their scrap Corian too. They use the
turnings as employee and customer gifts from what I understand.

- Andrew



"10x" wrote in message
...


Greetings,

I have been given an assortment of corian scraps that I can use for
making pens. It works very well for the "slimline" style of pen.
However, for the thicker Mont Blanc style, I have to glue two pieces
together.

So far I, haven't had much success with this. I doesn't matter whether
I use the thicker crazy glues, model cement, or 5 minute epoxy. The
results are always the same. The pieces split apart when when I'm
turning.

I have tried sanding the faces with 80 grit to provide some tooth for
the glue, but nothing seems to help. I know Dupont makes a glue for
this product, because some of the shops laminate corian to make a
thicker front edge on counter tops.

What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Any info on glue or technique would be appreciated.


Joe

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:49:45 -0500, 10x wrote:

I have tried sanding the faces with 80 grit to provide some tooth for
the glue, but nothing seems to help. I know Dupont makes a glue for
this product, because some of the shops laminate corian to make a
thicker front edge on counter tops.

What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Unless you are a dealer or know an unscrupulous one, you won't be
"tracking down" DuPont's Corian glue, since it is sold only to
dealers. As far as gluing it together in a lamination...good luck.
There are glues that might give you a halfway decent mechanical bond,
but you would need a thick seam, which probably wouldn't look all that
good in a pen. Epoxys are too brittle, as are CA glues. You might
give Weldbond a try and Gorilla glue might work, but it would need a
relatively thick seam. There is a product sold by a couple of dealers
that I've seen, although the name escapes me at the
moment...."(somebody's) Cement" which is supposed to be a new
wonder-adhesive, bonds under water, inside a volcano or in space...no
doubt somebody else will recall the name before I even get this
posted.

I guess you could make friends with a Corian installer and have him do
a lamination for you...it's worth a shot.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


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what is corian

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:49:45 -0500, 10x wrote:

I have tried sanding the faces with 80 grit to provide some tooth for
the glue, but nothing seems to help. I know Dupont makes a glue for
this product, because some of the shops laminate corian to make a
thicker front edge on counter tops.

What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Unless you are a dealer or know an unscrupulous one, you won't be
"tracking down" DuPont's Corian glue, since it is sold only to
dealers. As far as gluing it together in a lamination...good luck.
There are glues that might give you a halfway decent mechanical bond,
but you would need a thick seam, which probably wouldn't look all that
good in a pen. Epoxys are too brittle, as are CA glues. You might
give Weldbond a try and Gorilla glue might work, but it would need a
relatively thick seam. There is a product sold by a couple of dealers
that I've seen, although the name escapes me at the
moment...."(somebody's) Cement" which is supposed to be a new
wonder-adhesive, bonds under water, inside a volcano or in space...no
doubt somebody else will recall the name before I even get this
posted.

I guess you could make friends with a Corian installer and have him do
a lamination for you...it's worth a shot.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


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-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

A dense counter-top plastic type of material.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&i...UTF-8&q=corian

http://www.corian.com/a/en/h/Home/index.html

Interesting to work with. It has certain turning characteristics that makes
it quite different to work as compared to wood or other materials. Get some
scrap and give it a try.

- Andrew



"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
what is corian

I've been told that Corian is pure Acrylic, and that the other solid-surface
counter-top materials are a blend of Acrylic with something else (possibly
polyester, but I don't remember).
Martin

"AHilton" wrote in message
...
A dense counter-top plastic type of material.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&i...UTF-8&q=corian

http://www.corian.com/a/en/h/Home/index.html

Interesting to work with. It has certain turning characteristics that
makes
it quite different to work as compared to wood or other materials. Get
some
scrap and give it a try.

- Andrew



"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
what is corian

Hmmm I can't confirm or deny that. Are those clear "Acrylic Sheets" fairly
pure acrylic? Corian certainly isn't like that in working characteristics.
I don't see that it makes a difference one way or the other though. It's
not wood. g

- Andrew

"Martin Rost" rostmartin @ hot mail . com wrote in message
...
I've been told that Corian is pure Acrylic, and that the other
solid-surface
counter-top materials are a blend of Acrylic with something else (possibly
polyester, but I don't remember).
Martin

10x wrote in message ...


Greetings,

I have been given an assortment of corian scraps that I can use for
making pens. It works very well for the "slimline" style of pen.
However, for the thicker Mont Blanc style, I have to glue two pieces
together.

So far I, haven't had much success with this. I doesn't matter whether
I use the thicker crazy glues, model cement, or 5 minute epoxy. The
results are always the same. The pieces split apart when when I'm
turning.

I have tried sanding the faces with 80 grit to provide some tooth for
the glue, but nothing seems to help. I know Dupont makes a glue for
this product, because some of the shops laminate corian to make a
thicker front edge on counter tops.

What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Any info on glue or technique would be appreciated.


Joe

there are some adhesives known as plastic "welders" that IIUC,
dissolve and then re-bond the surface of plastics

sorry, don't know any names - google search?

Dale

"dalecue" wrote in message
...

there are some adhesives known as plastic "welders" that IIUC,
dissolve and then re-bond the surface of plastics ... SNIP ...
Dale
**************************************************
The cement that's used to connect/seal PVC pipe works like that. It might
work on Corian, but I don't know if it has a clear version. The pretreat
solvent has a purple color, But I can't remember about the main solvent/
cemant. I know You just brush it on, push the two pieces togrther, wait a
few mminutes, and it's one piece.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

In article . net,
"Ken Moon" wrote:

The cement that's used to connect/seal PVC pipe works like that. It might
work on Corian, but I don't know if it has a clear version. The pretreat
solvent has a purple color, But I can't remember about the main solvent/
cemant. I know You just brush it on, push the two pieces togrther, wait a
few mminutes, and it's one piece.

Acetone works that way on acrylics.

_____
American Association of Woodturners
Cascade Woodturners Assoc., Portland, Oregon
Northwest Woodturners, Tigard, Oregon
_____

I'm not sure if it will work on Corian, but Methylene Chloride might be
worth a try, its very thin and runs everywhere so be careful. It's the
strongest solvent available. I've used it from a syringe to glue/weld
Plexiglass display units together.
Your local vender of fibreglass products will likely carry it.





"10x" wrote in message
...


Greetings,

I have been given an assortment of corian scraps that I can use for
making pens. It works very well for the "slimline" style of pen.
However, for the thicker Mont Blanc style, I have to glue two pieces
together.

So far I, haven't had much success with this. I doesn't matter whether
I use the thicker crazy glues, model cement, or 5 minute epoxy. The
results are always the same. The pieces split apart when when I'm
turning.

I have tried sanding the faces with 80 grit to provide some tooth for
the glue, but nothing seems to help. I know Dupont makes a glue for
this product, because some of the shops laminate corian to make a
thicker front edge on counter tops.

What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Any info on glue or technique would be appreciated.


Joe

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:49:45 -0500, 10x wrote:




What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Any info on glue or technique would be appreciated.


Joe
I used to be the Corian guy in a cabinet shop...It *does* require
special glue, and it is not a good idea to try alternate adhesives. If
you really want to turn Corian pens a lot, find a shop that works the
stuff and ask for small cutoffs in usable thicknesses. For pens, they
might have stuff in the trash that will do. (There is a black & gray
speckled type that looks great as a pen.)

You can buy two kinds of adhesive for Corian on the "Corian for the
Creative" web site. One of the adhesives is the Dupont Seam Adhesive (the
same one that countertop installers use), and the other is an industrial
cyanoacrylate. You can also buy Corian and some kits on this site. They
offer a free 12-page booklet on how to work with Corian too. Go take a look
and be sure and follow the links to some really great Corian sculptures and
artwork too.
For tons of info on pen making and making Corian pens, go to the Penturners
Group on Yahoo. There is a huge amount of info in the group's Files
section, FAQ, and in the message archives - not to mention amongst the 1600
pen makers who are members!

Here's the Corian for the Creative site link:
http://stonewood.safeshopper.com/index.htm?392

And here is the Penturner's Group link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/penturners/

Hope this helps.

Pat L.
Pens By Patricia
Laguna Beach, CA USA
http://welcome.to/pens

I Would most strongly recommend you don't try Gorilla Glue or any
polyurathane! Most dissimilar plastics will chemically react with each
other. Sometimes it's heat sometimes it's just time. But either way the seam
will eventually fail.

Corian is mostly Acrilyc so CA Glue (With strong spring clamping) actually
will weld the material together and it takes a real close inspection to
locate the hairline seam. Don't rough the surface. you want as much contact
between the 2 materials as possible.

The best thing to note with laminated plastics is that it's all in the
chisel angle. Even with a razor-sharp skew you risk the point digging into
the seam at high speed and you'll have the famous "blow-out".

My 3 best recommendations are to change speeds, chisels and sanding
methods.... For starters, use a chisel called a "Skewchigouge" or "Skewgy"
for short. It has a perfect fingernail bevel for taking it not only from
square to round but also all the way down to your basic dimension without
grabbing the seam.

After that, I would use the Skew chisel (At a dramatically high angle) to
smooth it out. Use an extremely light touch, just enough to shave the
chatter marks and even the surface. Watch both your up and down angle as
well as the side to side angle because the back corner of the chisel is
usually the one that digs in and causes the blow-out.

Also since you're using basically a fingernail angle, use your higher speeds
even when cutting from square to round so the chisel will cut the Corian
instead of break it off. This will lessen vibration and stress on the joint
which is the most common reason CA glues fail.

Finally, Use WET sandpaper to reduce heat. You're getting your best results
when you see the "slurry" instead of seeing powder on the blanks as they
turn.






"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:49:45 -0500, 10x wrote:

I have tried sanding the faces with 80 grit to provide some tooth for
the glue, but nothing seems to help. I know Dupont makes a glue for
this product, because some of the shops laminate corian to make a
thicker front edge on counter tops.

What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Unless you are a dealer or know an unscrupulous one, you won't be
"tracking down" DuPont's Corian glue, since it is sold only to
dealers. As far as gluing it together in a lamination...good luck.
There are glues that might give you a halfway decent mechanical bond,
but you would need a thick seam, which probably wouldn't look all that
good in a pen. Epoxys are too brittle, as are CA glues. You might
give Weldbond a try and Gorilla glue might work, but it would need a
relatively thick seam. There is a product sold by a couple of dealers
that I've seen, although the name escapes me at the
moment...."(somebody's) Cement" which is supposed to be a new
wonder-adhesive, bonds under water, inside a volcano or in space...no
doubt somebody else will recall the name before I even get this
posted.

I guess you could make friends with a Corian installer and have him do
a lamination for you...it's worth a shot.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

IPS Corporation has a product called "Weld-On" that works okay with a 24
hour cure time for Corian. I found that 48 hours actually helped reduce
blow-out. I still prefer CA for Corian but CA didn't work too good on 100%
Acrylic sheets.


"dalecue" wrote in message
...

10x wrote in message ...


Greetings,

I have been given an assortment of corian scraps that I can use for
making pens. It works very well for the "slimline" style of pen.
However, for the thicker Mont Blanc style, I have to glue two pieces
together.

So far I, haven't had much success with this. I doesn't matter whether
I use the thicker crazy glues, model cement, or 5 minute epoxy. The
results are always the same. The pieces split apart when when I'm
turning.

I have tried sanding the faces with 80 grit to provide some tooth for
the glue, but nothing seems to help. I know Dupont makes a glue for
this product, because some of the shops laminate corian to make a
thicker front edge on counter tops.

What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Any info on glue or technique would be appreciated.


Joe

there are some adhesives known as plastic "welders" that IIUC,
dissolve and then re-bond the surface of plastics

sorry, don't know any names - google search?

Dale

Correct. Corian is pure acrilyc but in a slightly different form than the
clear and even colored sheets. Corian cuts better without melting as much as
the sheets.

Gemstone and others are mixed with Polyester which causes them to chip more
instead of giving you those nice clean cutting ribbons that Corian gives.
The secret to Gemstone is the sanding. Most things I've made from Gemstone
has more of a sandstone quality while Corian looks more like Granite.


"Martin Rost" rostmartin @ hot mail . com wrote in message
...
I've been told that Corian is pure Acrylic, and that the other
solid-surface
counter-top materials are a blend of Acrylic with something else (possibly
polyester, but I don't remember).
Martin

"AHilton" wrote in message
...
A dense counter-top plastic type of material.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&i...UTF-8&q=corian

http://www.corian.com/a/en/h/Home/index.html

Interesting to work with. It has certain turning characteristics that
makes
it quite different to work as compared to wood or other materials. Get
some
scrap and give it a try.

- Andrew



"Reyd Dorakeen" wrote in message
...
what is corian

One thing I forgot to mention... Clean your surfaces before gluing with
denatured alcohol and cotton facial pads. Then apply the CA Glue and clamps.


"Kent Carlson" wrote in message
...
I Would most strongly recommend you don't try Gorilla Glue or any
polyurathane! Most dissimilar plastics will chemically react with each
other. Sometimes it's heat sometimes it's just time. But either way the
seam
will eventually fail.

Corian is mostly Acrilyc so CA Glue (With strong spring clamping) actually
will weld the material together and it takes a real close inspection to
locate the hairline seam. Don't rough the surface. you want as much
contact
between the 2 materials as possible.

The best thing to note with laminated plastics is that it's all in the
chisel angle. Even with a razor-sharp skew you risk the point digging into
the seam at high speed and you'll have the famous "blow-out".

My 3 best recommendations are to change speeds, chisels and sanding
methods.... For starters, use a chisel called a "Skewchigouge" or "Skewgy"
for short. It has a perfect fingernail bevel for taking it not only from
square to round but also all the way down to your basic dimension without
grabbing the seam.

After that, I would use the Skew chisel (At a dramatically high angle) to
smooth it out. Use an extremely light touch, just enough to shave the
chatter marks and even the surface. Watch both your up and down angle as
well as the side to side angle because the back corner of the chisel is
usually the one that digs in and causes the blow-out.

Also since you're using basically a fingernail angle, use your higher
speeds
even when cutting from square to round so the chisel will cut the Corian
instead of break it off. This will lessen vibration and stress on the
joint
which is the most common reason CA glues fail.

Finally, Use WET sandpaper to reduce heat. You're getting your best
results
when you see the "slurry" instead of seeing powder on the blanks as they
turn.






"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:49:45 -0500, 10x wrote:

I have tried sanding the faces with 80 grit to provide some tooth for
the glue, but nothing seems to help. I know Dupont makes a glue for
this product, because some of the shops laminate corian to make a
thicker front edge on counter tops.

What can I use besides tracking down Dupont's product?

Unless you are a dealer or know an unscrupulous one, you won't be
"tracking down" DuPont's Corian glue, since it is sold only to
dealers. As far as gluing it together in a lamination...good luck.
There are glues that might give you a halfway decent mechanical bond,
but you would need a thick seam, which probably wouldn't look all that
good in a pen. Epoxys are too brittle, as are CA glues. You might
give Weldbond a try and Gorilla glue might work, but it would need a
relatively thick seam. There is a product sold by a couple of dealers
that I've seen, although the name escapes me at the
moment...."(somebody's) Cement" which is supposed to be a new
wonder-adhesive, bonds under water, inside a volcano or in space...no
doubt somebody else will recall the name before I even get this
posted.

I guess you could make friends with a Corian installer and have him do
a lamination for you...it's worth a shot.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----