I have a piece of slightly figured maple measuring 23 x 6 x 3/4 that I
wetted and planed last night. However it appears to have dried with a
slight (somewhere between 1/32 and 1/64) bow in it (maybe it wasn't
planed completely flat either, but it sure looked that way last night).
I'd really like it to lay flat w/o going through the whole process
again; there is some thickness to spare but I don't want to risk it
bowing again/more. Is it realistic to think that if 1/8 shims were
placed under the outsides of the board then weighted for a few days
that the bow could be negated?

Thanks

Brian Sheeres

wrote in message
I have a piece of slightly figured maple measuring 23 x 6 x 3/4 that I
wetted and planed last night. However it appears to have dried with a
slight (somewhere between 1/32 and 1/64) bow in it (maybe it wasn't
planed completely flat either, but it sure looked that way last night).

The answer could depend entirely upon what you're using it for?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

wrote:
I have a piece of slightly figured maple measuring 23 x 6 x 3/4 that I
wetted and planed last night. However it appears to have dried with a
slight (somewhere between 1/32 and 1/64) bow in it (maybe it wasn't
planed completely flat either, but it sure looked that way last night).
I'd really like it to lay flat w/o going through the whole process
again; there is some thickness to spare but I don't want to risk it
bowing again/more. Is it realistic to think that if 1/8 shims were
placed under the outsides of the board then weighted for a few days
that the bow could be negated?

If it was only last night that the piece was wet, wait a few days
before you do anything else to it. The moisture content needs to
equalize throughout the board, and that takes time. If it was straight
before wetting, it should return to that condition when it has
thoroughly dried and equalized.

Why'd you wet it?

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a piece of slightly figured maple measuring 23 x 6 x 3/4 that I
wetted and planed last night. However it appears to have dried with a
slight (somewhere between 1/32 and 1/64) bow in it (maybe it wasn't
planed completely flat either, but it sure looked that way last night).
I'd really like it to lay flat w/o going through the whole process
again; there is some thickness to spare but I don't want to risk it
bowing again/more. Is it realistic to think that if 1/8 shims were
placed under the outsides of the board then weighted for a few days
that the bow could be negated?

Thanks

Brian Sheeres

I do not think that will work . Each time you mess with the surface you
rearrange the internal stresses in the wood because the stresses at the free
surfaces is zero, and by planing it you have created a new free surface . It
might take several days for the stresses to completely relieve themselves .
each time now you repeat the process the movement should be less

chessboard surface and i'm really gunning for FLAT

It's figured wood and my straight knife jointer and planer were
creating considerable tear-out on the dry wood dispite taking even the
thinnest passes. I read a few posts on this NG about wetting the board
to soften the grain. It worked really well too; zero tear-out and only
a little, what I guess you'd call, scuffing of the grain, nothing a
scraper can't fix.

Thanks.

Thanks Mike,

I'll wait a few days then repeat the process. The board started with
some twist and 1/4 was milled off, so I'm sure the stresses changed
quite a bit. Second time around only a small amout should have to come
off. I'll keep ya posted.

wrote:
It's figured wood and my straight knife jointer and planer were
creating considerable tear-out on the dry wood dispite taking even the
thinnest passes. I read a few posts on this NG about wetting the board
to soften the grain. It worked really well too; zero tear-out and only
a little, what I guess you'd call, scuffing of the grain, nothing a
scraper can't fix.

Well, now I've learned something, which I'm still not too old to do.
It all makes perfect sense, I just wouldn't have thought of it. I'm so
anal about rust that it wouldn't have occurred to me to put wet wood
through my jointer or planer. But I can see where I could take
precautions to prevent any rust damage and get better results on my
wood in some cases.

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a piece of slightly figured maple measuring 23 x 6 x 3/4 that I
wetted and planed last night. However it appears to have dried with a
slight (somewhere between 1/32 and 1/64) bow in it (maybe it wasn't
planed completely flat either, but it sure looked that way last night).
I'd really like it to lay flat w/o going through the whole process
again; there is some thickness to spare but I don't want to risk it
bowing again/more. Is it realistic to think that if 1/8 shims were
placed under the outsides of the board then weighted for a few days
that the bow could be negated?

Thanks

Brian Sheeres

Re-saw it to 1/4" book match it then laminate it to a strong substrate.
Dave

On 10 Jan 2006 12:02:57 -0800, "
wrote:

It's figured wood and my straight knife jointer and planer were
creating considerable tear-out on the dry wood dispite taking even the
thinnest passes. I read a few posts on this NG about wetting the board
to soften the grain. It worked really well too; zero tear-out and only
a little, what I guess you'd call, scuffing of the grain, nothing a
scraper can't fix.

Thanks.
When wetting a board to reduce tearouts you only need to spray the
surface. I use a mixture of water and rubbing alcohol based on a
recommendation from someone on the wreck. I keep a spray bottle near
my planer and only have to spray every other pass to keep tearouts to
zero. Spray on, wait a few seconds until the wood wets and then wipe
off the excess - it isn't enough to warp a 3/4 inch board (1/4 inch
maybe but then I spray both sides to keep things in balance).

TWS

Thanks. That's nice to know. I wasn't sure how much water to use. I'll
try less (and the alcohol mixture) when I run them through again in a
few days.

Did you wet and plane both sides? If not there is your problem. In my
experience, using weights to remove bow is a waste of time.
Dave

wrote:
I have a piece of slightly figured maple measuring 23 x 6 x 3/4 that I
wetted and planed last night. However it appears to have dried with a
slight (somewhere between 1/32 and 1/64) bow in it (maybe it wasn't
planed completely flat either, but it sure looked that way last night).
I'd really like it to lay flat w/o going through the whole process
again; there is some thickness to spare but I don't want to risk it
bowing again/more. Is it realistic to think that if 1/8 shims were
placed under the outsides of the board then weighted for a few days
that the bow could be negated?

Thanks

Brian Sheeres

I agree on waiting a couple days to see what happens. Is there anyway
you could borrow a drum sander? It would flatten it without tearout or
wetting. Might be the excuse you're looking for to buy a drum sander.

I did wet and plan both sides. Interesting though, I never stopped to
consider how wetting/planing just one side might effect the wood.

Good to know I shouldn't waste my time with weights.

wrote:
I have a piece of slightly figured maple measuring 23 x 6 x 3/4 that I
wetted and planed last night. However it appears to have dried with a
slight (somewhere between 1/32 and 1/64) bow in it Brian Sheeres
If you let it sit flat on the workbench overnight one side might have
dried out more than the other (or one side absorbed more from
humidity). Turn it over and let it sit overnight and see what happens.
If it's bowed from moisture, the concave side is drier than the convex
side. Sam