I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The
way I typically use these planks is to line the bottom of the plank
with foil, place the planked fish on the second level over medium heat
of a gas grill (@ 350-400º inside the hood) for around 20 min. The
plank never chars, but can discolor from the heat on the bottom. The
planks are reusable for about 20 trips to the grill or so.

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.

Glue Chemists encouraged to reply.

Thanks,
H

"hylourgos" wrote in message
Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.


You should not see any contamination as it is inert and non toxic when
cured, but I don't know if the glues are good for the heat they will see.

"hylourgos" wrote:

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.

Ye gads, what an obvious troll, or at least I hope that is what it is.

Lew

On 25-Nov-2005, "hylourgos" wrote:

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.

At room temperature, I wouldn't be too worried, but putting this in
the BBQ is another story. Checking the MSDS of a one-part moisture-
curing polyurethane glue (not necessarily the one you are using) indicates
that the following can be given off:

"By high heat and fi carbon monoxide, oxides of nitrogen,
traces of HCN, MDI vapors or aerosols."

Would you like fries with that?

I've never been too keen on the trendy idea of using cedar for BBQing
anything. Sure - just throw it on the stuff with natural bug killer
in it - it'll shore taste goood! I'll stick to using aromatic cedar
for chests and bug-proof closet lining.

Mike

"Michael Daly" wrote in message

Checking the MSDS of a one-part moisture-
curing polyurethane glue (not necessarily the one you are using) indicates
that the following can be given off:

"By high heat and fi carbon monoxide, oxides of nitrogen,
traces of HCN, MDI vapors or aerosols."

Would you like fries with that?


Meaningless. The MSDS is for the uncured adhesive. Once cured, the
properties are entirely different. There is no MSDS for the cured product
and none is required.

On 25 Nov 2005 19:35:00 -0800, "hylourgos" wrote:

I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.

I'd be just as concerned with what might be in the "aromatic cedar".
I've lined some closets with the it and it has some kind of crystaline
looking stuff all over it.

I've been to some nice restuarants that served fish grilled on cedar
planks. They looked more like roof shingles to me.

Mike O.

I don't know the answer to your question, but...
if it were me I'd skip the glue & not take any chances
and only use what I know is ok.
Options:
1. Tight fitting dowels and secure with nails/brads.
2. Battens and screws on the backside.
3. Drill holes to run wires thru edgewise.
4. Staple the ends, pinch dog style.
5. Sliding dovetails.
I'm sure there are plenty of others but these should get
you started.

Art


"hylourgos" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The
way I typically use these planks is to line the bottom of the plank
with foil, place the planked fish on the second level over medium heat
of a gas grill (@ 350-400º inside the hood) for around 20 min. The
plank never chars, but can discolor from the heat on the bottom. The
planks are reusable for about 20 trips to the grill or so.

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.

Glue Chemists encouraged to reply.

Thanks,
H

On 25 Nov 2005 19:35:00 -0800, "hylourgos" wrote:

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way?

When heated, certainly. PU glue being the worst of the lot.

Personally I wouldn't glue it at all, I'd just dowel it. Most glues will
lose strength anyway when heated, including PVA and hide.

On 25 Nov 2005 19:35:00 -0800, "hylourgos" wrote:

I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The
way I typically use these planks is to line the bottom of the plank
with foil, place the planked fish on the second level over medium heat
of a gas grill (@ 350-400º inside the hood) for around 20 min. The
plank never chars, but can discolor from the heat on the bottom. The
planks are reusable for about 20 trips to the grill or so.

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.

Glue Chemists encouraged to reply.

Thanks,
H

I'd avoid the use of any adhesive. Use mechanical fastening methods
only. I am thinking that cured adhesives, in a manner similar to
plastics, will give up compounds you don't want to ingest when heated.

Also, I believe that the cedar planks you're thinking of for cooking
fish or meat are Western Red Cedar, not aromatic.

On 26-Nov-2005, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

Once cured, the properties are entirely different.

The physical properties change, but the chemical components are
the same. How do they react to heat? - not certain, but I bet
the combustion (and partial combustion) byproducts are probably
not much different. Since the OP isn't intending to subject the
cured adhesive to very high, complete combustion conditions, he's
likely to produce a similar collection of byproducts.

Mike

I don't think I would want to eat fish the was cooked in a cedar chest.
Maybe Western Red but not Eastern (Aromatic).

Wrong. But if the answer is so obvious to you, perhaps you'd care to
share its rationale?

I won't hold my breath.

H.

Michael Daly wrote:
snip
... Since the OP isn't intending to subject the
cured adhesive to very high, complete combustion conditions, he's
likely to produce a similar collection of byproducts.

Do you mean UNlikely?

Also, you wrote above: "I've never been too keen on the trendy idea of
using cedar for BBQing
anything. Sure - just throw it on the stuff with natural bug killer
in it - it'll shore taste goood! I'll stick to using aromatic cedar
for chests and bug-proof closet lining."

Using aromatic cedar for plank-fish cooking, although it may be
considered a "trend" if you frequent haute cuisine places in the city,
is hardly a novel idea--it's been done for centuries along the eastern
coast.

Of course, maybe that's why there's so many crazy people down there....

Lots of edible things are natural bug repellants, such as citrus, but
that hasn't kept most folks from enjoying it. Interesting question
though (is aromatic cedar bad for you in this context), and funny that
I hadn't considered that before the glue question.

Safety aside, however, I've never had anything remotely as good as
cedar-planked fresh salmon. Just can't beat the taste.

Regards,
H

No, aromatic is the way to go. Lot's of restaurants and suppliers will
give you the Western, but I suspect it's because they don't know the
difference and opt for the cheaper more readily accessible wood.

ANY wood can be used to "plank" cook fish. CEDAR-planked fish is only
worthy of the distinction if aromatic is used. It imparts a flavor that
is, IMO and others', stunning. Western Cedar might as well be any other
bland wood. Eastern's not the only wood that gives off a distinct
flavor to fish, but it's my favorite.

de gustibus non disputandum est?

H.

hylourgos wrote:
: I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
: glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The
: way I typically use these planks is to line the bottom of the plank
: with foil, place the planked fish on the second level over medium heat
: of a gas grill (@ 350-400? inside the hood) for around 20 min. The
: plank never chars, but can discolor from the heat on the bottom. The
: planks are reusable for about 20 trips to the grill or so.

: Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
: thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
: otherwise Titebond II.

: Glue Chemists encouraged to reply.


Forget the glue. Aromatic cedar is NOT the right stuff to use to emulate
Pacific NW salmon planking, For that, you want western red or white cedar,
which is a very different thing from eastern aromatic cedar.

I imagine fish cooked on closet-liner cedar would taste pretty awful.


-- Andy Barss

On 25 Nov 2005 19:35:00 -0800, "hylourgos" wrote:

I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The
way I typically use these planks is to line the bottom of the plank
with foil, place the planked fish on the second level over medium heat
of a gas grill (@ 350-400º inside the hood) for around 20 min. The
plank never chars, but can discolor from the heat on the bottom. The
planks are reusable for about 20 trips to the grill or so.

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.

Glue Chemists encouraged to reply.

Thanks,
H
Having read all the responses to your question I'm surprised that no
one from the northwest of North America has replied. That's were the
American Indians have been using Alder and Cedar for plank cooking for
a long time..
There are sources for food grade Western Red Cedar that is approved by
USDA for plank cooking. I have had Salmon on Western Red Cedar and
Trout on Alder.
I would not use wood I bought down at the lumber yard and I would not
use aromatic cedar for cooking or smoking. Its oils are too strong. I
have never heard of any one using it for cooking. Western Red Cedar is
what's used. As for glue. Why even go there. I don't care what the
bottle says.
Find another use for your scrap aromatic cedar.
Some reading on the subject, I'm sure there is much more.
http://www.ozevillage.com.au/oevshop...roduct_id=9452

ED

hylourgos wrote:
Wrong. But if the answer is so obvious to you, perhaps you'd care to
share its rationale?

I won't hold my breath.

Not sure what this means, but every recipe I ever seen that uses cedar
plank specifies untreated cedar plank.

"Untreated" doesn't include chemical treatment of any kind including glue.

Any urethane product contains MDI and/or TDI and this includes foam used
in furniture or poly adhesive.

MDI and TDI are both full hazmat chemicals requiring self contained air
supply masks (an air bottle strapped on your back or equal) if are are
near the stuff.

You also need full hazmat suits.

These are both very nasty chemicals that we supply instrumentation for
tanks that manufacturers use to contain it.

You want cedar planking, then use untreated cedar shake shingles which
while very pretty, are also a real fire hazard.

Best use for them is planked food, not roofs.

Now take your meds like a good boy and go back to sleep.

Lew

On 26 Nov 2005 18:42:27 -0800, "hylourgos" wrote:

No, aromatic is the way to go. Lot's of restaurants and suppliers will
give you the Western, but I suspect it's because they don't know the
difference and opt for the cheaper more readily accessible wood.

Having spent over 35 years working as a Chef, with 25 as a certified
Executive Chef with stints in East, Southwest, Northwest with
Doubletree, Sheraton, and Hilton. I think I know what woods are used
for cooking and why. Only a fool would make a statement like "aromatic
is the way to go" or "any wood can be used" The reason no one uses it
has nothing to do with providers, its because Chefs like good reviews
and don't like to kill people.There are reasons we only use certain
woods for cutting boards one of which is imparting a bad taste.
Just because you are using it and have found a few poor sods to agree
with you means nothing.
Just the fact you are posting and asking for advise about what effect
heat will have on glue and cooking, speaks volumes to your culinary
knowledge.
Stick to woodworking I can only hope you know more about that.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message

Any urethane product contains MDI and/or TDI and this includes foam used
in furniture or poly adhesive.

MDI and TDI are both full hazmat chemicals requiring self contained air
supply masks (an air bottle strapped on your back or equal) if are are
near the stuff.

You also need full hazmat suits.

Hmmm, I've never seen Norm in a hazmat suit when doing a glue up. Now, I
don't doubt the chemicals are hazardous in raw form and full concentration,
but what happens when they are cured? MSDS sheets are good for raw
chemicals, but they are of little or no value once the chemical has been
processed, combined, cured, dried, whatever.

Ever notice that once wood is fully oxidized in becomes fireproof?

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Hmmm, I've never seen Norm in a hazmat suit when doing a glue up. Now, I
don't doubt the chemicals are hazardous in raw form and full concentration,
but what happens when they are cured?

A valid question.

MDI/TDI based products are perfectly safe when applied properly and
allowed to cure.

When these cured products are burned; however, new ball game.

If you doubt this, talk to a local firefighter about what happens when
furniture foam starts burning.

At a minimum, you will get SOX, NOX, CO and a whole bunch of other nasty
organic products of combustion, be it complete or incomplete.

Urethanes are nothing to screw around with, they can be very nasty.

Lew

Mike O. wrote:
On 25 Nov 2005 19:35:00 -0800, "hylourgos" wrote:


I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.


I'd be just as concerned with what might be in the "aromatic cedar".
I've lined some closets with the it and it has some kind of crystaline
looking stuff all over it.

I've been to some nice restuarants that served fish grilled on cedar
planks. They looked more like roof shingles to me.

Mike O.

Northwest Indians "grill" or broil salmon by
tacking them the cedar board and standing the
board up around the a fire. But they use western
red cedar. I thing "aromatic cedar" refers to
eastern woods. I would worry about using easter
cedar, but worry even more about using glue. The
plank should be solid.

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 05:32:26 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

Mike O. wrote:
On 25 Nov 2005 19:35:00 -0800, "hylourgos" wrote:


I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.


I'd be just as concerned with what might be in the "aromatic cedar".
I've lined some closets with the it and it has some kind of crystaline
looking stuff all over it.

I've been to some nice restuarants that served fish grilled on cedar
planks. They looked more like roof shingles to me.

Mike O.

Northwest Indians "grill" or broil salmon by
tacking them the cedar board and standing the
board up around the a fire. But they use western
red cedar. I thing "aromatic cedar" refers to
eastern woods. I would worry about using easter
cedar, but worry even more about using glue. The
plank should be solid.

Landry's in Huntsville, AL (and probably other places) has cedar-planked
Salmon. Come to you on a cedar shingle -- definitely *not* the old Army
SOS. mmmm- good stuff. No, it's not the aromatic cedar.



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Lew Hodgett wrote:
hylourgos wrote:
Wrong. But if the answer is so obvious to you, perhaps you'd care to
share its rationale?

I won't hold my breath.

Not sure what this means, but every recipe I ever seen that uses cedar
plank specifies untreated cedar plank.

"Untreated" doesn't include chemical treatment of any kind including glue.

Treated cedar planks, FYI, have nothing to do with glue. And if you're
trusting recipe guides to tell you whether glue is toxic, well....


Any urethane product contains MDI and/or TDI and this includes foam used
in furniture or poly adhesive.

MDI and TDI are both full hazmat chemicals requiring self contained air
supply masks (an air bottle strapped on your back or equal) if are are
near the stuff.

You also need full hazmat suits.

These are both very nasty chemicals that we supply instrumentation for
tanks that manufacturers use to contain it.

Now that's helpful Lew, was that so hard? Why'd you have to go on about
troll ****? You really think knowledge about acronyms like MDI/TDI is
"obvious"?

You want cedar planking, then use untreated cedar shake shingles which
while very pretty, are also a real fire hazard.

Best use for them is planked food, not roofs.

That's Western Cedar you're referring to. It's also what many food
sites suggest for meat planking, but if you'll read the OP more
carefully, you'll realize it specified aromatic, i.e., Eastern Cedar, a
whole different wood. The former, BTW, is frequently mentioned for its
toxicity (both dust and oil), the latter is not.

Now take your meds like a good boy and go back to sleep.

Who is it, exactly, that you think you're talking to?

H.

wrote:
On 26 Nov 2005 18:42:27 -0800, "hylourgos" wrote:

No, aromatic is the way to go. Lot's of restaurants and suppliers will
give you the Western, but I suspect it's because they don't know the
difference and opt for the cheaper more readily accessible wood.

Having spent over 35 years working as a Chef, with 25 as a certified
Executive Chef with stints in East, Southwest, Northwest with
Doubletree, Sheraton, and Hilton. I think I know what woods are used
for cooking and why.

You think you do? OK, tell me.

Only a fool would make a statement like "aromatic
is the way to go" or "any wood can be used"

Well, Mr. Executive, it is in fact my opinion that aromatic is the way
to go for salmon. I like it better than Western Cedar, Alder, and
Apple. That's a fact. That comment was furthermore in response to
George, who questioned whether I meant aromatic or the more commonly
used Western Cedar. If you want to get in a dander about that, then
knock yourself out. If your opinion differs, fine. If you want to call
others fools for not sharing your opinion, really, who's the fool?

If your panties are more wadded up because of the latter statement
("any wood can be used"), let me clarify: I meant most American woods,
which have historically, anthropologically been used or experimented
with as cooking utensils, specifically using the planking method. You
are of course free to disagree with that statement of fact, but we
would verify it from historians and anthropologists (not Executive
Chefs).

The reason no one uses it
has nothing to do with providers, its because Chefs like good reviews
and don't like to kill people.

Right. Now show me the bad reviews and deaths that resulted from using
aromatic cedar, and you'll begin to show that you know what you're
talking about. I'll even settle for one (even just one!) scientifically
validated study that claims to demonstrate that aromatic cedar is toxic
for plank cooking.

snip irrelevant comment about cutting boards

Just because you are using it and have found a few poor sods to agree
with you means nothing.

Now you've really hurt my feelings. Being an Executive Chef and all....

Just the fact you are posting and asking for advise about what effect
heat will have on glue and cooking, speaks volumes to your culinary
knowledge.

Well, you've got me dead to rights there. I mean, me not being an
Executive Chef and all, I guess I had no business asking a question
about it.

Oh, and the fact that you didn't answer the question speaks a tome or
two.

Stick to woodworking I can only hope you know more about that.

Probably good advice (note the spelling there). I'll return the favor
and suggest you stay in the kitchen and not try logic.

H

"Aromatic cedar is NOT the right stuff to use to emulate Pacific NW
salmon planking, For that, you want western red or white cedar, which
is a very different thing from eastern aromatic cedar."

Your phrasing is correct, but I'm not trying to emulate Pacific NW
planking.

Thanks WB, those are some good ideas. Regards, H

"hylourgos" wrote in message
oups.com...

Any urethane product contains MDI and/or TDI and this includes foam used
in furniture or poly adhesive.

MDI and TDI are both full hazmat chemicals requiring self contained air
supply masks (an air bottle strapped on your back or equal) if are are
near the stuff.

You also need full hazmat suits.

These are both very nasty chemicals that we supply instrumentation for
tanks that manufacturers use to contain it.

Now that's helpful Lew, was that so hard? Why'd you have to go on about
troll ****? You really think knowledge about acronyms like MDI/TDI is
"obvious"?


Amazing what a man can learn if he's half a mind to. Might leave you a bit
shy, but bookmark this : http://www.acronymfinder.com/

Oh yes. For a bit more of an education, check the list of chemicals used by
the tree for fighting decay. If they were put in a manufactured product,
the label would be frightening.

Thanks George, that's a great site for acronyms. Thus:

MDI: Methylene Diphenylene Diisocyanate
TDI: Toluenediisocyanate

....correct?

Since you mention it, what chemicals are used by aromatic cedar for
fighting decay?

H.

On 26-Nov-2005, "hylourgos" wrote:

Michael Daly wrote:
snip
... Since the OP isn't intending to subject the
cured adhesive to very high, complete combustion conditions, he's
likely to produce a similar collection of byproducts.

Do you mean UNlikely?

No - likely. If you are heating the glue without heating it enough
to cause complete combustion, then you can generate incomplete
combustion byproducts.

Using aromatic cedar for plank-fish cooking, although it may be
considered a "trend" if you frequent haute cuisine places in the city,
is hardly a novel idea--it's been done for centuries along the eastern
coast.

So too with smoking tobacco - I don't do that either, nor would I
recommend it to others.

Safety aside, however, I've never had anything remotely as good as
cedar-planked fresh salmon. Just can't beat the taste.

The Romans used lead salts as sweeteners. You can do what you want -
I'm just saying there are things that aren't a good idea no matter
what the taste.

Mike

Michael Daly wrote:
On 26-Nov-2005, "hylourgos" wrote:

Michael Daly wrote:
snip
... Since the OP isn't intending to subject the
cured adhesive to very high, complete combustion conditions, he's
likely to produce a similar collection of byproducts.

Do you mean UNlikely?

No - likely. If you are heating the glue without heating it enough
to cause complete combustion, then you can generate incomplete
combustion byproducts.

Ah, cleared it up, thanks.

Using aromatic cedar for plank-fish cooking, although it may be
considered a "trend" if you frequent haute cuisine places in the city,
is hardly a novel idea--it's been done for centuries along the eastern
coast.

So too with smoking tobacco - I don't do that either, nor would I
recommend it to others.

I'm with you on the tobacco. But there is abundant and reliable
scientific evidence for the dangers of smoking tobacco. Do you know of
any reliable sources about aromatic cedar and cooking toxicity?

Safety aside, however, I've never had anything remotely as good as
cedar-planked fresh salmon. Just can't beat the taste.

The Romans used lead salts as sweeteners. You can do what you want -
I'm just saying there are things that aren't a good idea no matter
what the taste.

de salutate non disputandum est?

Good advice, thanks,
H.

Michael Daly wrote:
On 26-Nov-2005, "hylourgos" wrote:

Michael Daly wrote:
snip
... Since the OP isn't intending to subject the
cured adhesive to very high, complete combustion conditions, he's
likely to produce a similar collection of byproducts.

Do you mean UNlikely?

No - likely. If you are heating the glue without heating it enough
to cause complete combustion, then you can generate incomplete
combustion byproducts.

Ah, cleared it up, thanks.

Using aromatic cedar for plank-fish cooking, although it may be
considered a "trend" if you frequent haute cuisine places in the city,
is hardly a novel idea--it's been done for centuries along the eastern
coast.

So too with smoking tobacco - I don't do that either, nor would I
recommend it to others.

I'm with you on the tobacco. But there is abundant and reliable
scientific evidence for the dangers of smoking tobacco. Do you know of
any reliable sources about aromatic cedar and cooking toxicity?

Safety aside, however, I've never had anything remotely as good as
cedar-planked fresh salmon. Just can't beat the taste.

The Romans used lead salts as sweeteners. You can do what you want -
I'm just saying there are things that aren't a good idea no matter
what the taste.

de salute non disputandum est?

Good advice, thanks,
H.

In article . com,
hylourgos wrote:
I have some smaller pieces of scrap (aromatic) cedar that I'd like to
glue up to make planks large enough for cooking fish on the grill. The
way I typically use these planks is to line the bottom of the plank
with foil, place the planked fish on the second level over medium heat
of a gas grill (@ 350-400º inside the hood) for around 20 min. The
plank never chars, but can discolor from the heat on the bottom. The
planks are reusable for about 20 trips to the grill or so.

Can thoroughly cured glue contaminate the fish in any way? I was
thinking of using polyurethane, just because I have some left over, but
otherwise Titebond II.

Glue Chemists encouraged to reply.

Thanks,
H


Why not use fish glue?


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Well darn, that was so obvious, why didn't I think of that? Hide glue
(which is just protein, I think) might work fine too, but fish glue for
fish plank...why oh why was my first inclination towards the most toxic
glue?

Now the only question is whether it will hold up under moderate heat.

Thanks for whacking me upside the head,
H

Hide glue softens with heat.
Don't know about fish glue.
Wheat paste?

Art

"hylourgos" wrote in message
ups.com...
Well darn, that was so obvious, why didn't I think of that? Hide glue
(which is just protein, I think) might work fine too, but fish glue for
fish plank...why oh why was my first inclination towards the most toxic
glue?

Now the only question is whether it will hold up under moderate heat.

Thanks for whacking me upside the head,
H

I think most protein-based glues will soften w/ heat, but perhaps by
combining biscuits w/ the glue, the glue will hold things together long
enough for the biscuits to expand and set the joint tight. Dowels might
work, but biscuits would swell more and perhaps maintain the joint.
Just have to experiment with it and see....

Thanks,
H

On 28-Nov-2005, "Wood Butcher" wrote:

Hide glue softens with heat.
Don't know about fish glue.
Wheat paste?

Could try blood - take some blood (Inuit used to use caribou
blood), swish it around in your mouth to get it good and warm
and start coagulating. Smear it on the wood. It will give a
decent bond. Not likely to be dangerous unless the caribou has
a nasty disease.

Mike

"Michael Daly" wrote in message

Could try blood - take some blood (Inuit used to use caribou
blood), swish it around in your mouth to get it good and warm
and start coagulating. Smear it on the wood. It will give a
decent bond. Not likely to be dangerous unless the caribou has
a nasty disease.

Mike

Thanks for that tip. My shop gets chilly, but now with my new glue and
procedure I'm going to be doing glue ups all winter long. In the summer
will I still have to swirl it in my mouth?

Fred wrote:
I don't think I would want to eat fish the was cooked in a cedar chest.
Maybe Western Red but not Eastern (Aromatic).

I'd avoid both, as well as other insect-resistant woods.

They contain a higher concentration of toxins than other woods,
that is what makes them insect-resistant. It is not clear
that those toxins will migrate into the food, but that does
not seem to be too far-fetched .

Maybe Native Americans on the West Coast commonly used
western red cedar for cooking but consider also that their
life expectancy was less than thirty years. Most of them
didn't live long enough to get cancer.

--

FF

hylourgos wrote:
No, aromatic is the way to go. Lot's of restaurants and suppliers will
give you the Western, but I suspect it's because they don't know the
difference and opt for the cheaper more readily accessible wood.

ANY wood can be used to "plank" cook fish.

Sure, but you may be very unhappy with the flavor if you use
black walnut. Several others may well result in acute toxicity.

Poison Ivy is a woody vine, and old vines can be six inches or more
in diameter. You COULD cobble up a board out of narrow planks
cut from poison ivy (Roy Underhill had a guest who made wooden
spoons from poison ivy) and you COULD cook fish on it but
I personally discourage you from trying.

--

FF

On 29-Nov-2005, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

In the summer will I still have to swirl it in my mouth?

Yup! I've been wondering if saliva plays a role...

Mike