been using my delta 14" saw for about 10 years. been using the same blades
lenox bi metal blades forever too.
the first time it happed I was removing a piece of wood I cut only part way.
sometimes the wood binds a bit and pulls the blade. but it does not cause a
problem. but now the blade will jump forward and be about 1/2 on and 1/2 off the
wheel. at first I played around with the tracking to get it normal. but I found
that if I just undo the tension and get the blade in the middle and tighten it
it will move again the first time and stay the second usually. till something
causes it to jump 1/2 off the wheel again.
it tracks fine till that sudden jump. then it will stay there untilled I change
the tracking or undo and redo the tension.
the second time it happened it cut right through the blade guard sure startled
me (G)




--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

That is the main thing they warn of when you try to back out of a partial
cut. Have you rounded the back of the blade? That might help. I have a
cut blade guard too, from the back of the blade cutting in. Part of my
education.

Steve


"Steve Knight" wrote in message
...
been using my delta 14" saw for about 10 years. been using the same
blades
lenox bi metal blades forever too.
the first time it happed I was removing a piece of wood I cut only part
way.
sometimes the wood binds a bit and pulls the blade. but it does not cause
a
problem. but now the blade will jump forward and be about 1/2 on and 1/2
off the
wheel. at first I played around with the tracking to get it normal. but I
found
that if I just undo the tension and get the blade in the middle and
tighten it
it will move again the first time and stay the second usually. till
something
causes it to jump 1/2 off the wheel again.
it tracks fine till that sudden jump. then it will stay there untilled I
change
the tracking or undo and redo the tension.
the second time it happened it cut right through the blade guard sure
startled
me (G)




--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

"Steve Knight" wrote in message
...
been using my delta 14" saw for about 10 years. been using the same
blades
lenox bi metal blades forever too.
the first time it happed I was removing a piece of wood I cut only part
way.
sometimes the wood binds a bit and pulls the blade. but it does not cause
a
problem. but now the blade will jump forward and be about 1/2 on and 1/2
off the
wheel. at first I played around with the tracking to get it normal. but I
found
that if I just undo the tension and get the blade in the middle and
tighten it
it will move again the first time and stay the second usually. till
something
causes it to jump 1/2 off the wheel again.
it tracks fine till that sudden jump. then it will stay there untilled I
change
the tracking or undo and redo the tension.
the second time it happened it cut right through the blade guard sure
startled
me (G)


Tires could be your problem. If they're gummed flat or losing their crown,
it's easier for the blade to run forward. Keep a couple of wedges at hand
to open the kerf before you start backing out, BTW.

Steve Knight says...

been using my delta 14" saw for about 10 years. been using the same blades
lenox bi metal blades forever too.
the first time it happed I was removing a piece of wood I cut only part way.
sometimes the wood binds a bit and pulls the blade. but it does not cause a
problem. but now the blade will jump forward and be about 1/2 on and 1/2 off the
wheel. at first I played around with the tracking to get it normal. but I found
that if I just undo the tension and get the blade in the middle and tighten it
it will move again the first time and stay the second usually. till something
causes it to jump 1/2 off the wheel again.
it tracks fine till that sudden jump. then it will stay there untilled I change
the tracking or undo and redo the tension.
the second time it happened it cut right through the blade guard sure startled
me (G)

Just a few guesses that you probably already thought of. Maybe some
embedded saw dust on the tires or just worn tires. Maybe the tires are
concave after years of use. Maybe there is a loose spot where the glue
let go or maybe there is a crack in a tire. I would change the tires if
it keeps happening.

Tires could be your problem. If they're gummed flat or losing their crown,
it's easier for the blade to run forward. Keep a couple of wedges at hand
to open the kerf before you start backing out, BTW.

I glanced at them and they seemed ok. I don't get gum as I only cut tropicals.
when the wood dues pull at the blade when I pull it out it is only slightly
since I am cutting tropicals. but it even happens if a piece of wood jams in the
throat plate. I will inspect my rubbers tomorrow (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

It is not obvious from your post, but have you tried changing the
blade? I am using the same saw and had a similar problem before
finding an ever so slight kink in the bandsaw blade that caused it to
jump on the wheel from time to time. I had virtually overhauled my
machine before figuring it out, but it probably needed a good cleaning
and alignment. After putting a new blade on, I was back in business.

Sawblade

It is not obvious from your post, but have you tried changing the
blade? I am using the same saw and had a similar problem before
finding an ever so slight kink in the bandsaw blade that caused it to
jump on the wheel from time to time. I had virtually overhauled my
machine before figuring it out, but it probably needed a good cleaning
and alignment. After putting a new blade on, I was back in business.

Sawblade

On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:46:52 -0700, Steve Knight
wrote:

been using my delta 14" saw for about 10 years. been using the same blades
lenox bi metal blades forever too.
the first time it happed I was removing a piece of wood I cut only part way.
sometimes the wood binds a bit and pulls the blade. but it does not cause a
problem. but now the blade will jump forward and be about 1/2 on and 1/2 off the
wheel. at first I played around with the tracking to get it normal. but I found
that if I just undo the tension and get the blade in the middle and tighten it
it will move again the first time and stay the second usually. till something
causes it to jump 1/2 off the wheel again.
it tracks fine till that sudden jump. then it will stay there untilled I change
the tracking or undo and redo the tension.
the second time it happened it cut right through the blade guard sure startled
me (G)

Check the bearing on your idle wheel. We were having a problem with
this on one of the big saws at work, and about a week later the whole
bearing ripped itself to shreds. Made a lot of noise, but it didn't
damage anything- but with a 14" shop saw, that may be a different
story. It's definately worth checking out, anyhow.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

Steve; Sounds like you did sumpin to anger the tool gods. Add the chisel and
now the BS, what's next? I wouldn't ride that recumbent any longer, it might
conspire to do you in. Reminds me of the twilight zone epp where all the
appliances conspire against the critic. Regards Pat (stratus rider n
sawdust maker)

Check the bearing on your idle wheel. We were having a problem with
this on one of the big saws at work, and about a week later the whole
bearing ripped itself to shreds. Made a lot of noise, but it didn't
damage anything- but with a 14" shop saw, that may be a different
story. It's definately worth checking out, anyhow.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

will do.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On 10 Apr 2005 20:33:11 -0700, "Sawblade" wrote:

It is not obvious from your post, but have you tried changing the
blade?
two or three blades have done this. though it seems to be getting worse.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 05:50:49 -0700, "patrick mitchel"
wrote:

Steve; Sounds like you did sumpin to anger the tool gods. Add the chisel and
now the BS, what's next? I wouldn't ride that recumbent any longer, it might
conspire to do you in.

you would think with all of the added gods I have made I would be immune?

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

In article ,
Steve Knight wrote:

Check the bearing on your idle wheel. We were having a problem with
this on one of the big saws at work, and about a week later the whole
bearing ripped itself to shreds. Made a lot of noise, but it didn't
damage anything- but with a 14" shop saw, that may be a different
story. It's definately worth checking out, anyhow.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

will do.

Hmmm. I have a 14" saw but don't know what an idle wheel might be...

BUT this brings another thought to mind - maybe one of your wheel
bearings is sloppy or perhaps something has entered the bearing and
intermittently gets pulled into the rotating action - causing the wheel
to jump.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

BUT this brings another thought to mind - maybe one of your wheel
bearings is sloppy or perhaps something has entered the bearing and
intermittently gets pulled into the rotating action - causing the wheel
to jump.

ok I checked the bearings atleast in the top wheel. don't know why I did not
check the bottom (G) but they seemed nice and smooth. the rubber looks good and
still has the same crown it always has.
nothing gets pulled in just sawdust.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:55:30 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
wrote:

In article ,
Steve Knight wrote:

Check the bearing on your idle wheel. We were having a problem with
this on one of the big saws at work, and about a week later the whole
bearing ripped itself to shreds. Made a lot of noise, but it didn't
damage anything- but with a 14" shop saw, that may be a different
story. It's definately worth checking out, anyhow.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

will do.

Hmmm. I have a 14" saw but don't know what an idle wheel might be...

The idle wheel is the one that spins freely when you do not have a
blade installed. I never really bothered to check to see what Delta
called it in the manual for my little benchtop one, that's just what
HE&M calls them in the big ones. Sorry for any confusion on that
point.

BUT this brings another thought to mind - maybe one of your wheel
bearings is sloppy or perhaps something has entered the bearing and
intermittently gets pulled into the rotating action - causing the wheel
to jump.

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

In article ,
Prometheus wrote:

The idle wheel is the one that spins freely when you do not have a
blade installed. I never really bothered to check to see what Delta
called it in the manual for my little benchtop one, that's just what
HE&M calls them in the big ones. Sorry for any confusion on that
point.

Ah, I was thinking along the lines of an idler pulley - to tension a
drive belt or somethingalongthoselines.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05