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#1
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Lathe Stand
The 3000 is here, and as I assemble to get my limiting dimension
requirements, I am mentally designing my stand. I know that the table/cabinet type will work just fine. Ol' Blue has been running on his for years. But - there isn't enough room under the ways to get the shavings out, save with a hook and drag method. I'm sick of doing it, and ready to try something new. My current crop of ideas include: 1) Rout openings in a plywood top below and between the bed members to allow the shavings to fall. 2) Use parallel 2x3 for the lathe and cantilever a shelf between bed and the wall to catch shavings and hide sharp-edged tools. 3) Platform mount, by elevating the attachment points with plywood perpendicular to the length to gain an inch and a half of clearance. Of these, the third seems most appealing, and not because it also seems the easiest, but because it preserves the larger footprint of 1 over 2, and has no hidden ledges to hide buildup of shavings under the ways. Now, as a naturally suspicious type, I wonder if I'm not building to fail with 3. Any thoughts? |
#2
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No. 3 works for me. Hope Ol' Blue isn't pouting, he's earned his keep.
Welcome to the blue collar N3K club. Hope you enjoy that swivelling headstock. We expect a report, especially re adaptions. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#3
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Hello George,
I've had a Nova 3000 and now a Nova DVR 3000 for several years. Initially, for a few months, I had my Nova 3000 mounted on a flat table. When I built its stand, I used 2x6 inch boards for the entire frame. The top was two 2x6's space apart about 2" to 3", I'm not sure of the space. I always intended to install a ramp to make the shavings slide out the back into a shavings box. I wound up putting a sheet of 3/4" plywood over the back side of the stand to help with stability and never have installed the slanted tray to keep the shavings from falling on the stuff below. It works great and I just vacuum the shavings out of the bottom. Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The lathe stand doesn't move. I used the basic plan in the Nova 3000 manual, but used 2"x6" stock instead because I had a stack of that size boards that were four feet long. Fred Holder http://www.fholder.com/ In article , George says... The 3000 is here, and as I assemble to get my limiting dimension requirements, I am mentally designing my stand. I know that the table/cabinet type will work just fine. Ol' Blue has been running on his for years. But - there isn't enough room under the ways to get the shavings out, save with a hook and drag method. I'm sick of doing it, and ready to try something new. My current crop of ideas include: 1) Rout openings in a plywood top below and between the bed members to allow the shavings to fall. 2) Use parallel 2x3 for the lathe and cantilever a shelf between bed and the wall to catch shavings and hide sharp-edged tools. 3) Platform mount, by elevating the attachment points with plywood perpendicular to the length to gain an inch and a half of clearance. Of these, the third seems most appealing, and not because it also seems the easiest, but because it preserves the larger footprint of 1 over 2, and has no hidden ledges to hide buildup of shavings under the ways. Now, as a naturally suspicious type, I wonder if I'm not building to fail with 3. Any thoughts? |
#4
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"Arch" wrote in message ... No. 3 works for me. Hope Ol' Blue isn't pouting, he's earned his keep. Welcome to the blue collar N3K club. Hope you enjoy that swivelling headstock. We expect a report, especially re adaptions. Sad to say, I couldn't wait, and turned a bit to experiment. Smooth little devil, but the toolrest angles are going to be modified slightly to get in line with Blue, who's still planned to be the workhorse. He's overbuilt by a bunch, and can take it. I seldom succeed in getting them uploaded, but I tried a pic on abpw, if you want to look. |
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On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:24:11 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:
No idea what your lathe is like as to size, etc., but this might give you an idea or 2.. the best stand I've had so far for the Jet mini is a workmate... my new stand is being modeled after the top... Picture a 2by? frame stable enough to hold the lathe with a "workmate like" gap under it... and a plywood box roughly following the contours of the workmate legs... you end up with the lathe suspended over sort of a plywood funnel... I'm putting a 4" DC hose on the bottom of the funnel... not for dust, but to empty the funnel, because what doesn't drop into the box gets pushed into it as it gets in my way.. lol The 3000 is here, and as I assemble to get my limiting dimension requirements, I am mentally designing my stand. I know that the table/cabinet type will work just fine. Ol' Blue has been running on his for years. But - there isn't enough room under the ways to get the shavings out, save with a hook and drag method. I'm sick of doing it, and ready to try something new. My current crop of ideas include: 1) Rout openings in a plywood top below and between the bed members to allow the shavings to fall. 2) Use parallel 2x3 for the lathe and cantilever a shelf between bed and the wall to catch shavings and hide sharp-edged tools. 3) Platform mount, by elevating the attachment points with plywood perpendicular to the length to gain an inch and a half of clearance. Of these, the third seems most appealing, and not because it also seems the easiest, but because it preserves the larger footprint of 1 over 2, and has no hidden ledges to hide buildup of shavings under the ways. Now, as a naturally suspicious type, I wonder if I'm not building to fail with 3. Any thoughts? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#6
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"Fred Holder" wrote in message ... Hello George, I've had a Nova 3000 and now a Nova DVR 3000 for several years. Initially, for a few months, I had my Nova 3000 mounted on a flat table. When I built its stand, I used 2x6 inch boards for the entire frame. The top was two 2x6's space apart about 2" to 3", I'm not sure of the space. I always intended to install a ramp to make the shavings slide out the back into a shavings box. I wound up putting a sheet of 3/4" plywood over the back side of the stand to help with stability and never have installed the slanted tray to keep the shavings from falling on the stuff below. It works great and I just vacuum the shavings out of the bottom. Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The lathe stand doesn't move. I used the basic plan in the Nova 3000 manual, but used 2"x6" stock instead because I had a stack of that size boards that were four feet long. I've got maple and birch 2" if I decide to go that way. With my shop and my tool collection, I have to re-use the space underneath for storage. I catch shavings from spindles and outsides in my bag sitting forward, so only hollowing throws them out the bottom of the bowl to the rear. Did you have problems with shavings riding (hiding) on your rails underneath? The way I cut, the Monica of collectors would clog on the heaps of "Afro" twists that interlock into large lumps, so vacuuming isn't an option. I've thought of sloping forward, though. |
#7
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Fred Holder wrote:
Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The lathe stand doesn't move. Several buckets full of railroad spikes?? I've got a couple (doesn't everybody), but several Buckets full?? |
#8
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I am afraid to ask what other hobbies he has.... : )
Lobby Dosser wrote: Fred Holder wrote: Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The lathe stand doesn't move. Several buckets full of railroad spikes?? I've got a couple (doesn't everybody), but several Buckets full?? |
#9
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Lobby Dosser wrote:
Fred Holder wrote: Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The lathe stand doesn't move. Several buckets full of railroad spikes?? I've got a couple (doesn't everybody), but several Buckets full?? Yeah! That's ridiculous. I stored them in cardboard cartons. Much more economical packaging method. -- Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art http://woodwork.pmccl.com |
#10
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Don't worry, they are just a by-product of his rail and switch collection.
Billh "Eddie Munster" wrote in message news I am afraid to ask what other hobbies he has.... : ) Lobby Dosser wrote: Fred Holder wrote: Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The lathe stand doesn't move. Several buckets full of railroad spikes?? I've got a couple (doesn't everybody), but several Buckets full?? |
#11
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George wrote:
The 3000 is here, and as I assemble to get my limiting dimension requirements, I am mentally designing my stand. I know that the table/cabinet type will work just fine. Ol' Blue has been running on his for years. But - there isn't enough room under the ways to get the shavings out, save with a hook and drag method. I'm sick of doing it, and ready to try something new. My current crop of ideas include: 1) Rout openings in a plywood top below and between the bed members to allow the shavings to fall. 2) Use parallel 2x3 for the lathe and cantilever a shelf between bed and the wall to catch shavings and hide sharp-edged tools. 3) Platform mount, by elevating the attachment points with plywood perpendicular to the length to gain an inch and a half of clearance. Of these, the third seems most appealing, and not because it also seems the easiest, but because it preserves the larger footprint of 1 over 2, and has no hidden ledges to hide buildup of shavings under the ways. Now, as a naturally suspicious type, I wonder if I'm not building to fail with 3. Any thoughts? I have a Delta with factory metal stand. I put a horizontal shelf of 3/4 plywood about 18 inches from the floor with angled holes to hold tools, and straight ones for centers, chuck. There are dowel stubs to hold the faceplates & large chuck. There are two 2 x 2's across near the top with the back one lower. On these is mounted a sheet of 1/4 plywood extending over the shaving box in the back. This works extremely well for me except for the flying shavings which hit a hanging shower curtain and drop into the box. The thin plywood vibrates just enough to keep the shavings sliding down it. The stand is bolted to two pieces of 2x4 front to back and the 2 by 4's are glued to the concrete floor with silicone. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA Never judge a man till you have walked a mile in his shoes, 'cuz by then, he's a mile away, you've got his shoes. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#12
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"Arch" wrote in message ... No. 3 works for me. Hope Ol' Blue isn't pouting, he's earned his keep. Welcome to the blue collar N3K club. Hope you enjoy that swivelling headstock. We expect a report, especially re adaptions. Did number three, elevating 1 1/2 inches over the top. I can get my hand under there to find something if I drop it, and grab a handful if I need it. Made the footprint wider than the swing, and a not-so-secret compartment at the base for chicken grit if I start swinging bigger stuff. I'm still relocating things to keep both her and Blue in the workshop. Blue stays for the heavy stuff until she proves she can take it, and then perhaps to the big kid when he sets up again stateside. I'll try a picture on abpw again. |
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