Lathe Stand
 

The 3000 is here, and as I assemble to get my limiting dimension
requirements, I am mentally designing my stand.

I know that the table/cabinet type will work just fine. Ol' Blue has been
running on his for years. But - there isn't enough room under the ways to
get the shavings out, save with a hook and drag method. I'm sick of doing
it, and ready to try something new. My current crop of ideas include:

1) Rout openings in a plywood top below and between the bed members to
allow the shavings to fall.

2) Use parallel 2x3 for the lathe and cantilever a shelf between bed and
the wall to catch shavings and hide sharp-edged tools.

3) Platform mount, by elevating the attachment points with plywood
perpendicular to the length to gain an inch and a half of clearance.

Of these, the third seems most appealing, and not because it also seems the
easiest, but because it preserves the larger footprint of 1 over 2, and has
no hidden ledges to hide buildup of shavings under the ways.

Now, as a naturally suspicious type, I wonder if I'm not building to fail
with 3. Any thoughts?

No. 3 works for me. Hope Ol' Blue isn't pouting, he's earned his keep.
Welcome to the blue collar N3K club. Hope you enjoy that swivelling
headstock. We expect a report, especially re adaptions.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Hello George,

I've had a Nova 3000 and now a Nova DVR 3000 for several years. Initially, for a
few months, I had my Nova 3000 mounted on a flat table. When I built its stand,
I used 2x6 inch boards for the entire frame. The top was two 2x6's space apart
about 2" to 3", I'm not sure of the space. I always intended to install a ramp
to make the shavings slide out the back into a shavings box. I wound up putting
a sheet of 3/4" plywood over the back side of the stand to help with stability
and never have installed the slanted tray to keep the shavings from falling on
the stuff below. It works great and I just vacuum the shavings out of the
bottom.

Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with railroad
spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The lathe stand doesn't
move.

I used the basic plan in the Nova 3000 manual, but used 2"x6" stock instead
because I had a stack of that size boards that were four feet long.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com/

In article , George says...

The 3000 is here, and as I assemble to get my limiting dimension
requirements, I am mentally designing my stand.

I know that the table/cabinet type will work just fine. Ol' Blue has been
running on his for years. But - there isn't enough room under the ways to
get the shavings out, save with a hook and drag method. I'm sick of doing
it, and ready to try something new. My current crop of ideas include:

1) Rout openings in a plywood top below and between the bed members to
allow the shavings to fall.

2) Use parallel 2x3 for the lathe and cantilever a shelf between bed and
the wall to catch shavings and hide sharp-edged tools.

3) Platform mount, by elevating the attachment points with plywood
perpendicular to the length to gain an inch and a half of clearance.

Of these, the third seems most appealing, and not because it also seems the
easiest, but because it preserves the larger footprint of 1 over 2, and has
no hidden ledges to hide buildup of shavings under the ways.

Now, as a naturally suspicious type, I wonder if I'm not building to fail
with 3. Any thoughts?

"Arch" wrote in message
...
No. 3 works for me. Hope Ol' Blue isn't pouting, he's earned his keep.
Welcome to the blue collar N3K club. Hope you enjoy that swivelling
headstock. We expect a report, especially re adaptions.


Sad to say, I couldn't wait, and turned a bit to experiment. Smooth little
devil, but the toolrest angles are going to be modified slightly to get in
line with Blue, who's still planned to be the workhorse. He's overbuilt by
a bunch, and can take it.

I seldom succeed in getting them uploaded, but I tried a pic on abpw, if you
want to look.

On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:24:11 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

No idea what your lathe is like as to size, etc., but this might give you an
idea or 2..

the best stand I've had so far for the Jet mini is a workmate... my new stand is
being modeled after the top...
Picture a 2by? frame stable enough to hold the lathe with a "workmate like" gap
under it... and a plywood box roughly following the contours of the workmate
legs... you end up with the lathe suspended over sort of a plywood funnel...

I'm putting a 4" DC hose on the bottom of the funnel... not for dust, but to
empty the funnel, because what doesn't drop into the box gets pushed into it as
it gets in my way.. lol


The 3000 is here, and as I assemble to get my limiting dimension
requirements, I am mentally designing my stand.

I know that the table/cabinet type will work just fine. Ol' Blue has been
running on his for years. But - there isn't enough room under the ways to
get the shavings out, save with a hook and drag method. I'm sick of doing
it, and ready to try something new. My current crop of ideas include:

1) Rout openings in a plywood top below and between the bed members to
allow the shavings to fall.

2) Use parallel 2x3 for the lathe and cantilever a shelf between bed and
the wall to catch shavings and hide sharp-edged tools.

3) Platform mount, by elevating the attachment points with plywood
perpendicular to the length to gain an inch and a half of clearance.

Of these, the third seems most appealing, and not because it also seems the
easiest, but because it preserves the larger footprint of 1 over 2, and has
no hidden ledges to hide buildup of shavings under the ways.

Now, as a naturally suspicious type, I wonder if I'm not building to fail
with 3. Any thoughts?




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Fred Holder" wrote in message
...
Hello George,

I've had a Nova 3000 and now a Nova DVR 3000 for several years. Initially,
for a
few months, I had my Nova 3000 mounted on a flat table. When I built its
stand,
I used 2x6 inch boards for the entire frame. The top was two 2x6's space
apart
about 2" to 3", I'm not sure of the space. I always intended to install a
ramp
to make the shavings slide out the back into a shavings box. I wound up
putting
a sheet of 3/4" plywood over the back side of the stand to help with
stability
and never have installed the slanted tray to keep the shavings from
falling on
the stuff below. It works great and I just vacuum the shavings out of the
bottom.

Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with
railroad
spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The lathe stand
doesn't
move.

I used the basic plan in the Nova 3000 manual, but used 2"x6" stock
instead
because I had a stack of that size boards that were four feet long.

I've got maple and birch 2" if I decide to go that way. With my shop and my
tool collection, I have to re-use the space underneath for storage. I catch
shavings from spindles and outsides in my bag sitting forward, so only
hollowing throws them out the bottom of the bowl to the rear. Did you have
problems with shavings riding (hiding) on your rails underneath?

The way I cut, the Monica of collectors would clog on the heaps of "Afro"
twists that interlock into large lumps, so vacuuming isn't an option. I've
thought of sloping forward, though.

Fred Holder wrote:

Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with
railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The
lathe stand doesn't move.



Several buckets full of railroad spikes?? I've got a couple (doesn't
everybody), but several Buckets full??

I am afraid to ask what other hobbies he has.... : )

Lobby Dosser wrote:
Fred Holder wrote:


Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with
railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The
lathe stand doesn't move.




Several buckets full of railroad spikes?? I've got a couple (doesn't
everybody), but several Buckets full??

Lobby Dosser wrote:
Fred Holder wrote:


Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with
railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The
lathe stand doesn't move.




Several buckets full of railroad spikes?? I've got a couple (doesn't
everybody), but several Buckets full??

Yeah! That's ridiculous. I stored them in cardboard cartons. Much more
economical packaging method.


--
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com

Don't worry, they are just a by-product of his rail and switch collection.
Billh

"Eddie Munster" wrote in message
...
I am afraid to ask what other hobbies he has.... : )

Lobby Dosser wrote:
Fred Holder wrote:


Incidentally mine has a compartment at the bottom that I filled with
railroad spikes (I had several buckets full of them on hand). The
lathe stand doesn't move.




Several buckets full of railroad spikes?? I've got a couple (doesn't
everybody), but several Buckets full??

George wrote:
The 3000 is here, and as I assemble to get my limiting dimension
requirements, I am mentally designing my stand.

I know that the table/cabinet type will work just fine. Ol' Blue has been
running on his for years. But - there isn't enough room under the ways to
get the shavings out, save with a hook and drag method. I'm sick of doing
it, and ready to try something new. My current crop of ideas include:

1) Rout openings in a plywood top below and between the bed members to
allow the shavings to fall.

2) Use parallel 2x3 for the lathe and cantilever a shelf between bed and
the wall to catch shavings and hide sharp-edged tools.

3) Platform mount, by elevating the attachment points with plywood
perpendicular to the length to gain an inch and a half of clearance.

Of these, the third seems most appealing, and not because it also seems the
easiest, but because it preserves the larger footprint of 1 over 2, and has
no hidden ledges to hide buildup of shavings under the ways.

Now, as a naturally suspicious type, I wonder if I'm not building to fail
with 3. Any thoughts?


I have a Delta with factory metal stand. I put a horizontal
shelf of 3/4 plywood about 18 inches from the floor with
angled holes to hold tools, and straight ones for centers,
chuck. There are dowel stubs to hold the faceplates & large
chuck.

There are two 2 x 2's across near the top with the back one
lower. On these is mounted a sheet of 1/4 plywood extending
over the shaving box in the back. This works extremely well
for me except for the flying shavings which hit a hanging
shower curtain and drop into the box. The thin plywood
vibrates just enough to keep the shavings sliding down it.

The stand is bolted to two pieces of 2x4 front to back and
the 2 by 4's are glued to the concrete floor with silicone.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Never judge a man till you have walked
a mile in his shoes, 'cuz by then,
he's a mile away, you've got his shoes.





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"Arch" wrote in message
...
No. 3 works for me. Hope Ol' Blue isn't pouting, he's earned his keep.
Welcome to the blue collar N3K club. Hope you enjoy that swivelling
headstock. We expect a report, especially re adaptions.


Did number three, elevating 1 1/2 inches over the top. I can get my hand
under there to find something if I drop it, and grab a handful if I need it.

Made the footprint wider than the swing, and a not-so-secret compartment at
the base for chicken grit if I start swinging bigger stuff. I'm still
relocating things to keep both her and Blue in the workshop. Blue stays for
the heavy stuff until she proves she can take it, and then perhaps to the
big kid when he sets up again stateside.

I'll try a picture on abpw again.