Perhaps a silly question, but is there more to properly setting a drill
chuck or drive center with a morse taper, than to completely degrease it an
give it a good whack with a wooden mallet?

Thanks,

Steve

The pressure of using the spur or other drive is enough to seat it in the
headstock. The pressure of using the drill tends to seat the Jacobs chuck in
the tailstock but most are eqippped with threaded hole for 1/4" all thread
to secure it in place with a nut on the other end. This is called a draw
bar.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

Steve, perhaps a nitpicky answer, but there is a little more to setting
a drill in a drill (Jacobs) chuck than seating its Morse tapered arbor
in the lathe spindle. Rotate the drill bit as you close the jaws on the
shaft, not the twists. Tighten at each keyhole around the chuck as you
close the jaws. Make sure the workpiece is centered. Make a small entry
hole with a center bit, tip of a skew or small gouge to start out right.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

You should only have to push it into the morse taper with your hands.

Once it is in it should be difficult to remove and the drive or the
chuck should not spin inside. If it does you may have a slight defect
either on the drill chuck or drive or inside the taper.

All it takes is a little grit getting inside the taper and metal can
build up and keep your drive from seating correctly.

I had a problem inside my taper. I ended up buying a reamer from msc.
After a few turns of the reamer the problem was solved.

C & S wrote:
Perhaps a silly question, but is there more to properly setting a drill
chuck or drive center with a morse taper, than to completely degrease it an
give it a good whack with a wooden mallet?

Thanks,

Steve

As others have stated you shouldn't have to bang it in. Simply putting into
the matching sleave so that it bottoms should be sufficient. If it spins
then its probably due to dirt of some sort either on the tapered shaft or
its matching sleave.

These basically work because it is tapered and the match between the shaft
and the cleave is very good.

Frank

"C & S" wrote in message
...
Perhaps a silly question, but is there more to properly setting a drill
chuck or drive center with a morse taper, than to completely degrease it
an
give it a good whack with a wooden mallet?

Thanks,

Steve

Hello Steve,

I was helping a fellow the other night with his new lathe and to my surprise
the #2 taper in both the headstock and tailstock were not machined properly
which resulted in my Jacob's chuck not seating properly. The hole in the
head/tailstock was 3/8 and the diameter of the smallest part of a #2 MT
should be around 0.572 and I suspect this one was a bit bigger resulting in
my #2 not being able to seat as the end of it butted up against the smaller
3/8 shoulder. I suggested he take his new lathe back and request a new one
with the properly machined tapers. I was quite surprised as the lathe he
got was the same make and model as mine I bought a year ago and mine is
alright. Oh well it must have been made on a Monday or Friday.... ha ha.
To temporarily solve his problem it only took a single ply of newspaper to
shim the taper to fit. The live center and drive center that came with the
lathe fit alright but were stubby #2's. I told him another way to get
around that problem would be to just cut or grind the smaller end of the
taper (if he got a taper that wouldn't seat) off by an 1/8th of an inch or
so. Do what you gotta do.

Just my two bit's.

Bernie Bober.

"Bernie Bober" wrote in message
...
Hello Steve,

I was helping a fellow the other night with his new lathe and to my
surprise the #2 taper in both the headstock and tailstock were not
machined properly which resulted in my Jacob's chuck not seating properly.
The hole in the head/tailstock was 3/8 and the diameter of the smallest
part of a #2 MT should be around 0.572 and I suspect this one was a bit
bigger resulting in my #2 not being able to seat as the end of it butted
up against the smaller 3/8 shoulder. I suggested he take his new lathe
back and request a new one with the properly machined tapers. I was quite
surprised as the lathe he got was the same make and model as mine I bought
a year ago and mine is alright. Oh well it must have been made on a
Monday or Friday.... ha ha. To temporarily solve his problem it only took
a single ply of newspaper to shim the taper to fit. The live center and
drive center that came with the lathe fit alright but were stubby #2's. I
told him another way to get around that problem would be to just cut or
grind the smaller end of the taper (if he got a taper that wouldn't seat)
off by an 1/8th of an inch or so. Do what you gotta do.

Just my two bit's.

Bernie Bober.

I have heard of some mini-lathes not accepting standard #2 morse tapers;
they require the stubby ones.
Billh

"billh" wrote in message
...


I have heard of some mini-lathes not accepting standard #2 morse tapers;
they require the stubby ones.
Billh


Oh,oh. What you said!

There are _no_ short types... except for the ones I own and we use at the
shop, which really cannot exist....

Thanks all. It's one of those things where you don't know what you don't
know.

A light tap with a wood mallet and all is secure with a Chuck from Lee
Valley.

I now have a related question. The lathe is a Jet 1442.

Amoung other accessories,1442 comes with a live center and a rod for
"pushing out" morese tapered accessories. The rod popped the drice center
out of the headstock as expected. When I tried this on the tailstock, it
popped out the "pin" in the center of the live center, not the whole live
center assembly as I had expected.

So, how do you remove the live center from the tailstock of a jet 1442?


Thanks,

Steve

"C & S" wrote in message
...
Perhaps a silly question, but is there more to properly setting a drill
chuck or drive center with a morse taper, than to completely degrease it
an
give it a good whack with a wooden mallet?

Thanks,

Steve

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I now have a related question. The lathe is a Jet 1442.

Amoung other accessories,1442 comes with a live center and a rod for
"pushing out" morese tapered accessories. The rod popped the drice center
out of the headstock as expected. When I tried this on the tailstock, it
popped out the "pin" in the center of the live center, not the whole live
center assembly as I had expected.

So, how do you remove the live center from the tailstock of a jet 1442?


Put something slightly wider than the final gap between the back of the
center and the quill housing in there and crank it back.

I take it you have the Nova center? Don't use the rod that fits through the
taper for anything but that purpose, If it mushrooms because you're
knocking out the headstock taper, you will have to get another. Get a
larger rod from your local box store if your tailstack will accommodate it,
and use it at both ends. My antique Delta doesn't have a open bore in the
tailstock, so it's not an option.

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
Thanks all. It's one of those things where you don't know what you don't
know.

A light tap with a wood mallet and all is secure with a Chuck from Lee
Valley.

I now have a related question. The lathe is a Jet 1442.

Amoung other accessories,1442 comes with a live center and a rod for
"pushing out" morese tapered accessories. The rod popped the drice center
out of the headstock as expected. When I tried this on the tailstock, it
popped out the "pin" in the center of the live center, not the whole live
center assembly as I had expected.

So, how do you remove the live center from the tailstock of a jet 1442?


Thanks,

Steve

Steve, are you sure it is not self-ejecting? Cranking the tailstock all the
way would remove the live center if it is self ejecting. My Jet mini has a
thru hole on the tailstock and is self ejecting.
Martin
Long Island NY