My figers are getting sore, and I'm looking at purchasing a beginning
power sanding outfit for bowls, mostly.

What experience and recommendations do you experienced folks have?
Thanks

WaltC wrote:
My figers are getting sore, and I'm looking at purchasing a beginning
power sanding outfit for bowls, mostly.

What experience and recommendations do you experienced folks have?
Thanks

I use the Sorby inertial sander. I may get a power sander later, but
this sorby 2" sander works wonders in my bowls.

Pete

start with inertia sander - plans on my web site, www.wbnoble.com or at
www.woodturners.org, or even in a magazine article on the subject (first
issue of woodturning design)
bill
"WaltC" wrote in message
ups.com...
My figers are getting sore, and I'm looking at purchasing a beginning
power sanding outfit for bowls, mostly.

What experience and recommendations do you experienced folks have?
Thanks

On 6 Jan 2005 20:53:00 -0800, "Pete" wrote:


WaltC wrote:
My figers are getting sore, and I'm looking at purchasing a beginning
power sanding outfit for bowls, mostly.

What experience and recommendations do you experienced folks have?
Thanks

I use the Sorby inertial sander. I may get a power sander later, but
this sorby 2" sander works wonders in my bowls.

Pete

Pete.. I checked out the Sorby, and it looks like what I need for my
next step... (though I still can't quite feel good about the idea of
something spinning inside something spinning *g*)

It looks like the disks are about half a buck each, do you go through
a lot of them?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Hey Mac, make them yourself!!!
I always buy rolls of 3" wide klingspor hook and loop sandpaper for
making 2 or 3" disks, 10 yards cost me about 20 bucks cut into 3" disks
make for 120 disks that's about 15 cents apiece and 10 cents for the 2"
ones.
got an address here that I am very satisfied with, they are good helpful
and friendly people

WWW.stockroomsupplies.com

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:

On 6 Jan 2005 20:53:00 -0800, "Pete" wrote:


WaltC wrote:

My figers are getting sore, and I'm looking at purchasing a beginning
power sanding outfit for bowls, mostly.

What experience and recommendations do you experienced folks have?
Thanks

I use the Sorby inertial sander. I may get a power sander later, but
this sorby 2" sander works wonders in my bowls.

Pete


Pete.. I checked out the Sorby, and it looks like what I need for my
next step... (though I still can't quite feel good about the idea of
something spinning inside something spinning *g*)

It looks like the disks are about half a buck each, do you go through
a lot of them?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I started using the Sorby sander a few months ago. I works great.
BUT, I am having trouble keeping it oiled. If I use too little oil the
shaft sticks, squeeks and blackened stuff appears. If I use too much
it gets oil spots all over my bowl. What kind of oil do you use and
how do you know how much to use?

By the way, Klingspor's 2" FLEXI-PAD (FP50200) are exactly the same as
Sorby's Sanding Pads. Instead of $29.95 at Woodcraft they are $9.95.

Thanks,
Ted


Pete wrote:

I use the Sorby inertial sander. I may get a power sander later, but
this sorby 2" sander works wonders in my bowls.

Pete

Walt

If it were me, I would go directly to the powered sanding device. You can
get the whole shooting match for less than $80 and I am sure your results
will bring much more in return.

To start, you can go to Ebay and buy a $20 Close Quarter Drill
Then Go to Craft Supplies and get their $19 3" foam hook and loop sanding
pad (this is the best on on the market)
Then go to Industrial Abrasives - a small company in PA and purchase 3"
disks in packs of 25 for about $8 each. The grits I get are 180, 220, 320,
and 400. Yes, start with 180!

This will get you well on your way and later when you are ready to get a
more durable rig, just get a Milwaukee Close Quarter Drill and you are set -
you can also get the Milwaukee from Ebay - these usually go for $120 at
auction, but you can find some that are less.

Good luck and wear a respirator when power sanding!

Ray Sandusky
Brentwood, TN USA

www.artisticwoods.com




"WaltC" wrote in message
ups.com...
My figers are getting sore, and I'm looking at purchasing a beginning
power sanding outfit for bowls, mostly.

What experience and recommendations do you experienced folks have?
Thanks

On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 02:23:49 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:


thanks, leo.. I bookmarked it for later, when my caffeine level is
up.. *g*


Hey Mac, make them yourself!!!
I always buy rolls of 3" wide klingspor hook and loop sandpaper for
making 2 or 3" disks, 10 yards cost me about 20 bucks cut into 3" disks
make for 120 disks that's about 15 cents apiece and 10 cents for the 2"
ones.
got an address here that I am very satisfied with, they are good helpful
and friendly people

WWW.stockroomsupplies.com

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:

On 6 Jan 2005 20:53:00 -0800, "Pete" wrote:


WaltC wrote:

My figers are getting sore, and I'm looking at purchasing a beginning
power sanding outfit for bowls, mostly.

What experience and recommendations do you experienced folks have?
Thanks

I use the Sorby inertial sander. I may get a power sander later, but
this sorby 2" sander works wonders in my bowls.

Pete


Pete.. I checked out the Sorby, and it looks like what I need for my
next step... (though I still can't quite feel good about the idea of
something spinning inside something spinning *g*)

It looks like the disks are about half a buck each, do you go through
a lot of them?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Walt, I have
4 of the Sioux angle drills that I use for most of my bowl sanding. I
prefer the high speed ones, but know some who prefer the slow speed
ones. I like the angle drill better than a right angled drill because
they allow easier access to the bottom of the bowls. This tool is a
drill and not a grinder or sander, which means that with heavy use, the
bearings will wear out. I go through 2 or so sets a year. Don't use a
lot of pressure when sanding, and blow them out often. Replacing both
sets of bearings costs me about $90. For sanding discs, I like the
aluminum oxide (red) discs. With the use of one of the eraser stick,
they last longer than any ofher discs I have used. I also punch my own
discs. I special order 12 inch wide by 10 yard long rolls from
Klingspoor (rolls can be 60 plus in. wide). For a cutter, I use a piece
of 3 inch inside diameter pipe that has 1/16 inch reamed off so that
the discs are actually 3 1/8 inch wide. The cutter needs to be
hardened. The hooks on the velcro pads can leave scratches and the
overhang helps get rid of that. To cut them out, place sand side down
on a 1/2 inch thick piece of plastic, place the I cutter, put a wood
block on the cutter, strike soundly with a 2 pound hammer, or use a big
arbor press, or find a clicker press (benchtop punch press). This needs
to be done on a sufrace that is solid and doesn't bounce.
I power sand with the coarser grits up to 150, and
then hand sand with 150. The straight line scratch marks will show up
any of the coarser power sanding marks that I may have missed.When
sanding, I hand turn and/or have the lathe at its slowest speed. Most
of my turnings are green, then dried, then sanded which means they are
warped, and difficult to hand sand at all but the slowest speeds. I
then power sand up to 220 or 320, and finish hand sanding at 320 or
400. Finish is then applied. Always keep the sander moving because it
can leave divots. The plus of power
sanding is that it is faster and uses less effort. You can also stop
the lathe and work on trouble spots. The down side is that they throw
and blow dust everywhere. A dust collecter, an air scrubber, and a dust
mask are necessary. I took a white plastic 55 gal. drum, cut it in
half, fit the bottom half up against the head stock, and put a plastic
sheet on the tailstock end. The only open area is where I stand, and
the dust collecter is hooked to the back. When hand sanding, zero dust
gets out. When power sanding, almost none gets out.
Sanding is a necessary evil. The best things to reduce
the amount of sanding you do is to keep your tools sharp, practice,
work to perfect your tecnique, and did I say keep your tools sharp.
Tecnique means learning how to get smooth even cuts, with no bumps,
lumps, humps,and dips. Don't force the tool.
I will consider myself a master woodturner
when I can turn a bowl without using calipers, and the finish procuct
doesn't need sanding. I expect to accomplish this some day, and I also
expect to win the lottery. The odds of doing both are about the same,
but I am making progress, I use almost no 80 grit paper, and can even
start at 180 grit once in a while. I hope this helps a little.
robo hippy

Walt, I have
4 of the Sioux angle drills that I use for most of my bowl sanding. I
prefer the high speed ones, but know some who prefer the slow speed
ones. I like the angle drill better than a right angled drill because
they allow easier access to the bottom of the bowls. This tool is a
drill and not a grinder or sander, which means that with heavy use, the
bearings will wear out. I go through 2 or so sets a year. Don't use a
lot of pressure when sanding, and blow them out often. Replacing both
sets of bearings costs me about $90. For sanding discs, I like the
aluminum oxide (red) discs. With the use of one of the eraser stick,
they last longer than any ofher discs I have used. I also punch my own
discs. I special order 12 inch wide by 10 yard long rolls from
Klingspoor (rolls can be 60 plus in. wide). For a cutter, I use a piece
of 3 inch inside diameter pipe that has 1/16 inch reamed off so that
the discs are actually 3 1/8 inch wide. The cutter needs to be
hardened. The hooks on the velcro pads can leave scratches and the
overhang helps get rid of that. To cut them out, place sand side down
on a 1/2 inch thick piece of plastic, place the I cutter, put a wood
block on the cutter, strike soundly with a 2 pound hammer, or use a big
arbor press, or find a clicker press (benchtop punch press). This needs
to be done on a sufrace that is solid and doesn't bounce.
I power sand with the coarser grits up to 150, and
then hand sand with 150. The straight line scratch marks will show up
any of the coarser power sanding marks that I may have missed.When
sanding, I hand turn and/or have the lathe at its slowest speed. Most
of my turnings are green, then dried, then sanded which means they are
warped, and difficult to hand sand at all but the slowest speeds. I
then power sand up to 220 or 320, and finish hand sanding at 320 or
400. Finish is then applied. Always keep the sander moving because it
can leave divots. The plus of power
sanding is that it is faster and uses less effort. You can also stop
the lathe and work on trouble spots. The down side is that they throw
and blow dust everywhere. A dust collecter, an air scrubber, and a dust
mask are necessary. I took a white plastic 55 gal. drum, cut it in
half, fit the bottom half up against the head stock, and put a plastic
sheet on the tailstock end. The only open area is where I stand, and
the dust collecter is hooked to the back. When hand sanding, zero dust
gets out. When power sanding, almost none gets out.
Sanding is a necessary evil. The best things to reduce
the amount of sanding you do is to keep your tools sharp, practice,
work to perfect your tecnique, and did I say keep your tools sharp.
Tecnique means learning how to get smooth even cuts, with no bumps,
lumps, humps,and dips. Don't force the tool.
I will consider myself a master woodturner
when I can turn a bowl without using calipers, and the finish procuct
doesn't need sanding. I expect to accomplish this some day, and I also
expect to win the lottery. The odds of doing both are about the same,
but I am making progress, I use almost no 80 grit paper, and can even
start at 180 grit once in a while. I hope this helps a little.
robo hippy

Walt
Make your own. It is fast and easy and a whole lot cheaper. See my page at
http://aroundthewoods.com/sander.shtml
I buy hook and loop paper from sandpaper.ca and either buy the 3" disks or
the 9x11 sheets and cut my own.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

Pete

Pete.. I checked out the Sorby, and it looks like what I need for my
next step... (though I still can't quite feel good about the idea of
something spinning inside something spinning *g*)

It looks like the disks are about half a buck each, do you go through
a lot of them?

I get the 50 packs of 2" disks from Klingspor for $10. So, at .20
each, I have cut the costs down a little. I like the idea of making
your own to cut costs further.

As for use, I tend to go through the lowest grit more than the higher
grits. I assume when my tool control gets better and I don't leave as
many deeper marks that will be less so. I might go through a pad or
two on the lowest grit per bowl. And go through a higher grit every
2-5 bowls. This depends on surface area.

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac I tried the e-mail address I put up here, I get some other setup, I
don't know what has happened, I cannot get a hold of the persons that
ran the business, tried the telephone # I have and that didn't get me
anywhere, I last talked to them ad the London wood show a went to, sorry
but you'll have to find another address, I used google to find another
clingspor dealer and they also carried the 3" hook and loop rolls, price
was a little higher though.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:

thanks, leo.. I bookmarked it for later, when my caffeine level is
up.. *g*


Hey Mac, make them yourself!!!
I always buy rolls of 3" wide klingspor hook and loop sandpaper for
making 2 or 3" disks, 10 yards cost me about 20 bucks cut into 3" disks
make for 120 disks that's about 15 cents apiece and 10 cents for the 2"
ones.
got an address here that I am very satisfied with, they are good helpful
and friendly people

WWW.stockroomsupplies.com

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On 7 Jan 2005 11:04:34 -0800, "Pete" wrote:


Pete

Pete.. I checked out the Sorby, and it looks like what I need for my
next step... (though I still can't quite feel good about the idea of
something spinning inside something spinning *g*)

It looks like the disks are about half a buck each, do you go through
a lot of them?

I get the 50 packs of 2" disks from Klingspor for $10. So, at .20
each, I have cut the costs down a little. I like the idea of making
your own to cut costs further.

As for use, I tend to go through the lowest grit more than the higher
grits. I assume when my tool control gets better and I don't leave as
many deeper marks that will be less so. I might go through a pad or
two on the lowest grit per bowl. And go through a higher grit every
2-5 bowls. This depends on surface area.

not bad at all, considering the price of sandpaper and the waste
involved..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Me again. I forgot to say thanks for all the good help and advice.
I'm ready to move on with sanding. My real challenge is to make my
cuts so good that I don't need to sand!!!
Walt C
In Minnesota where its too cold to go into the shop.