"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
the most practical way of connecting a power cable.

I found this on some website: ``J-1 is the power jack. Pin P is
Ground. Pin J is Hot. Pin A is Common. If you look on the inside of
the jack you will see the Green, Black and White wires going to these
pins J .''

I have a few options:

1. Open the unit and put in a power cable with ring terminals through
a ventilation in the unit and connect ring terminals to the proper
inside terminals. That will make a perfectly well working, although
not very sightly, unit.

1a. Remove the round cord receptacle and put in a wooden plug with a
hole in the center, and the power cord would go through it (instead of
through ventilation holes).

2. Solder a power cable to the connector pins. Also unsightly and also
rather decent.

3. Custom make a real plug. I would not mind doing it, all it requires
is a piece of insulating material of necessary diameter (would wood
work?), a template, and a drill press (which I have). Then I somehow
need to insert little tubes to go over the pins, seems like a lot of
hassle.


I am tempted to go with option number 1 or 1a for simplicity and
reliability, but want to get some opinions.

thanks!


I'd probably remove the existing receptacle and install a romex clamp or
weatherproof strain relief (much more expensive than the romex clamp), then
pass the power cord through that...

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
the most practical way of connecting a power cable.

You should be able to buy the connectors and make up your own cables. They
are likely to be quite expensive, though.

Leon

Go to Digikey, Allied electronics, or similar supplier. If you look on
the base flange or somewhere on the connector you'll see a part number that
starts with "MS" or something like that. Call up the supplier and tell them
what you have and they'll set you up.
If not, give me the number and I'll see what I can do as far as finding
you a mating part number.
There's a couple outfits out there, and I can't remember the names, that
specialize is old and obsolete military style connectors. I say military
style only because they started them, and they're actually used in many,
many industries.

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
| I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
| sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
| working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
| cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
| cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
| out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
| power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
| ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
| the most practical way of connecting a power cable.
|
| I found this on some website: ``J-1 is the power jack. Pin P is
| Ground. Pin J is Hot. Pin A is Common. If you look on the inside of
| the jack you will see the Green, Black and White wires going to these
| pins J .''
|
| I have a few options:
|
| 1. Open the unit and put in a power cable with ring terminals through
| a ventilation in the unit and connect ring terminals to the proper
| inside terminals. That will make a perfectly well working, although
| not very sightly, unit.
|
| 1a. Remove the round cord receptacle and put in a wooden plug with a
| hole in the center, and the power cord would go through it (instead of
| through ventilation holes).
|
| 2. Solder a power cable to the connector pins. Also unsightly and also
| rather decent.
|
| 3. Custom make a real plug. I would not mind doing it, all it requires
| is a piece of insulating material of necessary diameter (would wood
| work?), a template, and a drill press (which I have). Then I somehow
| need to insert little tubes to go over the pins, seems like a lot of
| hassle.
|
|
| I am tempted to go with option number 1 or 1a for simplicity and
| reliability, but want to get some opinions.
|
| thanks!
|
| i
|

"carl mciver" wrote in message
link.net...
Go to Digikey, Allied electronics, or similar supplier. If you look
on
the base flange or somewhere on the connector you'll see a part number
that
starts with "MS" or something like that. Call up the supplier and tell
them
what you have and they'll set you up.
If not, give me the number and I'll see what I can do as far as
finding
you a mating part number.
There's a couple outfits out there, and I can't remember the names,
that
specialize is old and obsolete military style connectors. I say military
style only because they started them, and they're actually used in many,
many industries.



This is the best solution. Forgot all about them being Amphenol connectors,
and the 3 pin ones should be readily availble.....

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
sell them, maybe will keep one.

First, I would make an attempt to get the right connector. You can
download free manuals at http://www.petergottlieb.com/links.html. You could
post a link to a picture of the connector and someone just might have a
drawer full of them somewhere, or you could contact any of several surplus
dealers who are selling that amp. Google is your friend.

Vaughn

Vaughn Simon wrote:
"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...

I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
sell them, maybe will keep one.


First, I would make an attempt to get the right connector. You can
download free manuals at http://www.petergottlieb.com/links.html. You could
post a link to a picture of the connector and someone just might have a
drawer full of them somewhere, or you could contact any of several surplus
dealers who are selling that amp. Google is your friend.

Vaughn


And reading the manual tells you that you need to get or build a power
supply -- otherwise it looks like a really nice amplifier. Be careful
when you're connecting that 3000V lead, though.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Ignoramus25901 wrote:

I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
the most practical way of connecting a power cable.


These are probably "cannon" connectors, now sold under the Amphenol
brand. They were totally ubiquitous on military gear from the 40's
through the
60's. Aircraft stuff started to switch to Bendix twist-lock connectors
then,
but the naval stuff may still be using the Cannon style. You can look
them up
in the Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. catalogs. Ther should be a MS3106 (I
think that's
the mil designation for that entire connector line) series number for
the connector
stamped on the body. It would be something like 14S-1P, which
identifies the
shell size (14) the pin orientation (S), the contact pattern (1) and the
sex, male in
the plug (P) sense. So, you;'d want a 14S-1S connector to mate with it.
There is,
I think, a plastic shell version that is intercompatible with these, but
much cheaper.
It doesn't have the mil designation, as it is not mil spec, but should
work otherwise.

Jon

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 15:37:43 GMT, the renowned "carl mciver"
wrote:

Go to Digikey, Allied electronics, or similar supplier. If you look on
the base flange or somewhere on the connector you'll see a part number that
starts with "MS" or something like that. Call up the supplier and tell them
what you have and they'll set you up.
If not, give me the number and I'll see what I can do as far as finding
you a mating part number.
There's a couple outfits out there, and I can't remember the names, that
specialize is old and obsolete military style connectors. I say military
style only because they started them, and they're actually used in many,
many industries.

They've gone from being very expensive, to just a little expensive
(and reasonable value if you need that sort of thing). There are types
that are compatible and plastic, and thus a bit cheaper. It's not
worth trying to make one if you can buy the type you need.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

For vintage electronic and military gear, try Fair Radio in Lima OH

Typically, a manufacturer will put their name and/or a part number (or
connector series number) on their connectors. Have a look at the inside
surfaces of the mating connector to see if there's any info on it.

WB
................

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
the most practical way of connecting a power cable.

I found this on some website: ``J-1 is the power jack. Pin P is
Ground. Pin J is Hot. Pin A is Common. If you look on the inside of
the jack you will see the Green, Black and White wires going to these
pins J .''

I have a few options:

1. Open the unit and put in a power cable with ring terminals through
a ventilation in the unit and connect ring terminals to the proper
inside terminals. That will make a perfectly well working, although
not very sightly, unit.

1a. Remove the round cord receptacle and put in a wooden plug with a
hole in the center, and the power cord would go through it (instead of
through ventilation holes).

2. Solder a power cable to the connector pins. Also unsightly and also
rather decent.

3. Custom make a real plug. I would not mind doing it, all it requires
is a piece of insulating material of necessary diameter (would wood
work?), a template, and a drill press (which I have). Then I somehow
need to insert little tubes to go over the pins, seems like a lot of
hassle.


I am tempted to go with option number 1 or 1a for simplicity and
reliability, but want to get some opinions.

thanks!

i

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
Thanks. I will look up everything relevant tonight, all the specs,
codes etc, and will also post good pictures. Any idea how much these
connectors even might cost?

i

For starters:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/620/806.pdf

Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
|
|
| Ignoramus25901 wrote:
|
| I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
| sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
| working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
| cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
| cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
| out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
| power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
| ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
| the most practical way of connecting a power cable.
|
|
| These are probably "cannon" connectors, now sold under the Amphenol
| brand. They were totally ubiquitous on military gear from the 40's
| through the
| 60's. Aircraft stuff started to switch to Bendix twist-lock connectors
| then,
| but the naval stuff may still be using the Cannon style. You can look
| them up
| in the Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. catalogs. Ther should be a MS3106 (I
| think that's
| the mil designation for that entire connector line) series number for
| the connector
| stamped on the body. It would be something like 14S-1P, which
| identifies the
| shell size (14) the pin orientation (S), the contact pattern (1) and the
| sex, male in
| the plug (P) sense. So, you;'d want a 14S-1S connector to mate with it.
| There is,
| I think, a plastic shell version that is intercompatible with these, but
| much cheaper.
| It doesn't have the mil designation, as it is not mil spec, but should
| work otherwise
|
| Jon

I hesitated to try and recall any of the numbers and their systems, but
they are more or less a standard configuration as mentioned above. What
usually makes the connector expensive is the environment it's made for.
Obviously high temp, high vibe with hydraulic fluid will cost you more,
including the necessary backshells and clamps. You can get plastic bodies
that work fine for your application, and when you're doing your research
you'll find that you likely need a backshell or wire support just behind the
clamp to keep the wires from fatiguing and breaking. I also should offer a
small warning here about the contacts. You can find solder contacts, crimp
contacts, and some connectors will have fixed contacts and some with
removable. The solder connectors will likely be more expensive, and the
replaceable contact connectors cheaper, but the tooling for the contacts
(the contact also depends on the kind of wire and gauge you'll be putting
in) are more expensive. For several connectors, it might be worth the
investment of the tooling. All depends on you. Soldered connectors are far
more likely to break the wires than crimped ones, especially if there's not
a backshell. If you decide to go with the soldered connectors, get with me
off line and I'll give you some pointers to keep the wire from breaking so
soon.
Then again you just might have to run with whatever you can find!

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:51:07 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 15:37:43 GMT, the renowned "carl mciver"
wrote:
Thanks. I will look up everything relevant tonight, all the specs,
codes etc, and will also post good pictures. Any idea how much these
connectors even might cost?

i

Base diagrams are he

http://www.amphenol.com.au/catalogue/ms97series.pdf

On 30 Dec 2004 19:54:32 GMT, the renowned Ignoramus25901
wrote:

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 14:51:07 -0500, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 15:37:43 GMT, the renowned "carl mciver"
wrote:

Go to Digikey, Allied electronics, or similar supplier. If you look on
the base flange or somewhere on the connector you'll see a part number that
starts with "MS" or something like that. Call up the supplier and tell them
what you have and they'll set you up.
If not, give me the number and I'll see what I can do as far as finding
you a mating part number.
There's a couple outfits out there, and I can't remember the names, that
specialize is old and obsolete military style connectors. I say military
style only because they started them, and they're actually used in many,
many industries.

They've gone from being very expensive, to just a little expensive
(and reasonable value if you need that sort of thing). There are types
that are compatible and plastic, and thus a bit cheaper. It's not
worth trying to make one if you can buy the type you need.

Thanks. I will look up everything relevant tonight, all the specs,
codes etc, and will also post good pictures. Any idea how much these
connectors even might cost?

Maybe $10 each for ones with just a few pins. Less if you can find
them surplus, but there are a lot of variations.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

"Ignoramus25901" wrote in message
...
[...] 3. Custom make a real plug. I would not mind doing it, all it
requires
is a piece of insulating material of necessary diameter (would wood
work?), a template, and a drill press (which I have). Then I somehow
need to insert little tubes to go over the pins, seems like a lot of
hassle.

Just for the record, since no one else seems to have mentioned it:

No, using wood would be a bad idea. Wood is not such a good insulator when
damp.

On 30 Dec 2004 15:17:10 GMT, Ignoramus25901
wrote:

I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
the most practical way of connecting a power cable.

I think you've already figured it out, but go find the right
connector. If you butcher the radio or start soldering wires to the
pins you risk ruining the resale value - some buyers want to actually
use them.

If you can't find the parts cheap, try Apex Electronics 8909 San
Fernando Road, Sun Valley CA. 818/767-7202
http://www.apexelectronic.com/ You'll have to call and ask, the
website doesn't even scratch the surface of what's in there.

They are a high-tech wrecking yard for the electronics and defense
industries, and they have aisles stacked with NOS mil-spec connectors.
And they've been used as a high-tech prop house, too - set designers
use bits to outfit the "laboratory"...

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:29:12 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:


If you can't find the parts cheap, try Apex Electronics 8909 San
Fernando Road, Sun Valley CA. 818/767-7202
http://www.apexelectronic.com/ You'll have to call and ask, the
website doesn't even scratch the surface of what's in there.

They are a high-tech wrecking yard for the electronics and defense
industries, and they have aisles stacked with NOS mil-spec connectors.
And they've been used as a high-tech prop house, too - set designers
use bits to outfit the "laboratory"...

Apex...takes a little bit of getting used to.

To say its ah...got a lot of Stuff....is something of an
understatement......

Apex is freaking Nirvanah for people like me/us.

Gunner

"War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling
which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight,
nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being
free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself."
- John Stewart Mill

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 04:13:15 GMT, Gunner
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:29:12 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

If you can't find the parts cheap, try Apex Electronics 8909 San
Fernando Road, Sun Valley CA. 818/767-7202
http://www.apexelectronic.com/ You'll have to call and ask, the
website doesn't even scratch the surface of what's in there.

They are a high-tech wrecking yard for the electronics and defense
industries, and they have aisles stacked with NOS mil-spec connectors.
And they've been used as a high-tech prop house, too - set designers
use bits to outfit the "laboratory"...

Apex...takes a little bit of getting used to.

To say its ah...got a lot of Stuff....is something of an
understatement......

Apex is freaking Nirvanah for people like me/us.

Oh, yeah. Need to get over there soon, I don't get to that end of
the valley too often lately. Might find some air line hardware, have
to plumb the garage...

Their only drawback is, they /do/ know what the stuff cost new, so
you can't low-ball them too much on some items. Something that might
be nifty to grab on a whim for $1 and screw around with to see if you
can make it work isn't so inviting when they say it's $50 - you tend
to rethink your design. But they've got little and big Variacs, Sola
Ferroresonant transformers, regular transformers, every kind of wire
and cable known to mankind, vacuum tubes, odd connectors, panel
meters, some pneumatics, some hydraulics...

The back yard outside is great - for a while they had a big
collection of those 1950's brew-a-cup-fresh coffee vending machines.
An old UHF TV Transmitter. Several sizes of microwave waveguides,
rigid and flexible. And a bunch of aerospace test stands. Some
aircraft drop tanks. And somewhere under the pile was a Studebaker
Pickup...

They have regular go-rounds with the LACityFD Inspector for having
stuff stacked too high and insufficient aisle space. My kind of
people. ;-)

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 09:06:44 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 04:13:15 GMT, Gunner
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:29:12 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

If you can't find the parts cheap, try Apex Electronics 8909 San
Fernando Road, Sun Valley CA. 818/767-7202
http://www.apexelectronic.com/ You'll have to call and ask, the
website doesn't even scratch the surface of what's in there.

They are a high-tech wrecking yard for the electronics and defense
industries, and they have aisles stacked with NOS mil-spec connectors.
And they've been used as a high-tech prop house, too - set designers
use bits to outfit the "laboratory"...

Apex...takes a little bit of getting used to.

To say its ah...got a lot of Stuff....is something of an
understatement......

Apex is freaking Nirvanah for people like me/us.

Oh, yeah. Need to get over there soon, I don't get to that end of
the valley too often lately. Might find some air line hardware, have
to plumb the garage...

Their only drawback is, they /do/ know what the stuff cost new, so
you can't low-ball them too much on some items. Something that might
be nifty to grab on a whim for $1 and screw around with to see if you
can make it work isn't so inviting when they say it's $50 - you tend
to rethink your design. But they've got little and big Variacs, Sola
Ferroresonant transformers, regular transformers, every kind of wire
and cable known to mankind, vacuum tubes, odd connectors, panel
meters, some pneumatics, some hydraulics...

The back yard outside is great - for a while they had a big
collection of those 1950's brew-a-cup-fresh coffee vending machines.
An old UHF TV Transmitter. Several sizes of microwave waveguides,
rigid and flexible. And a bunch of aerospace test stands. Some
aircraft drop tanks. And somewhere under the pile was a Studebaker
Pickup...

They have regular go-rounds with the LACityFD Inspector for having
stuff stacked too high and insufficient aisle space. My kind of
people. ;-)

-- Bruce --

Ive been tasked with rebuilding some stripped German metal spinning
lathes, and I need to make a run over there for some 2'x3' electrical
cabinets for relay boxes and some 3ph disconnects. Plus some bits and
pieces for my own projects.

Gunner

"War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling
which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight,
nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being
free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself."
- John Stewart Mill