I have read on several web sites about soaking fresh cut wood in a 50/50 mixture of dishwashing soap and water to help with turning. None of the sites mention how long to soak the wood?

Does anyone here do this and if so, how long do you soak the wood? I understand that it will depend on the size/thickness and the type of wood as well as how dry it is.

Thanks.

In article ,
"Ted" wrote:

I have read on several web sites about soaking fresh cut wood in a 50/50
mixture of dishwashing soap and water to help with turning. None of the sites
mention how long to soak the wood?

Does anyone here do this and if so, how long do you soak the wood? I
understand that it will depend on the size/thickness and the type of wood as
well as how dry it is.

Thanks.

As I recall it's usually a couple of days. IMO (and many others) it does
nothing for helping the wood dry, but it does help with the sanding

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Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Mon, 16 Mar 2009 07:43:43 -0400, "Ted" wrote:

I have read on several web sites about soaking fresh cut wood in a 50/50 mixture of dishwashing soap and water to help with turning. None of the sites mention how long to soak the wood?

Does anyone here do this and if so, how long do you soak the wood? I understand that it will depend on the size/thickness and the type of wood as well as how dry it is.

Thanks.
For the real deal on LDD, Google Ron Kent..
His work is just stunning, and he has (or at least had, a few years ago) quite a
bit of info on the process..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I soak almost all of my green turnings. I turn to final thickness,
soak, dry and then sand and finish. There were claims about both the
LDD and DNA (denatured alcohol) soaking methods helping keeping wood
more stable and reducing cracking. With the thin turned bowls, with my
experience of drying maybe 8,000 or more bowls, they do nothing in
this respect. I even did a test with 3 sets of bowls, 2 were soaked
(LDD and DNA), and one was just air dried. I weighed them till they
were dry. The results were exactly the same. It may have an effect on
thick turned bowls that you are going to return later, but I have
never turned that way. I continue to do the LDD soak. It makes the
wood a lot easier to sand out. Nothing more. Use cheap brown soap (not
the green or blue), mix 50/50 with water, soak for 24 hours, rinse off
lightly (you will never get all the bubbles out, but it doesn't make
any difference, and if you leave the soap mix on the wood, it can clog
up your abrasives, but that comes off with the eraser sticks), and let
dry. I do wrap the outside with a couple of layers of newspaper and
secure it to the rim of the bowl with some of the plastic film that
you use to wrap around boxes on a pallet. Stretch the plastic over the
rim about an inch, and put some pressure on it as you wrap. Cut out
the paper on the inside of the bowl, then dry as normal. I usually
start with the bowls on the floor for a day or 2 (cooler there), then
move to a wire shelf. Most are totally dry in about 10 days, depending
on your local weather.
robo hippy


On Mar 16, 5:36*am, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In article ,

*"Ted" wrote:
I have read on several web sites about soaking fresh cut wood in a 50/50
mixture of dishwashing soap and water to help with turning. None of the sites
mention how long to soak the wood?

Does anyone here do this and if so, how long do you soak the wood? I
understand that it will depend on the size/thickness and the type of wood as
well as how dry it is.

Thanks.

As I recall it's usually a couple of days. IMO (and many others) it does
nothing for helping the wood dry, but it does help with the sanding

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found athttp://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

I don't soak Norfolk Island Pine bowls in liquid dishwashing detergent,
but I do 'paint' green NIP turning blanks liberally with the cheapest
LDD in 1:2 solution. The blanks almost never crack and neither do the
objects I turn from them. Maybe they wouldn't have cracked anyway, but
I believe there is something special about NIP and LDD. I think Ron
Kent's work was with NIP.

If my ignorance works for me, I may as well enjoy it. But I'll try not
to bore y'all again with my same ole same ole NIP/LDD refrain. Well
maybe just a litte less often.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


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