Was working on a project the other day, and after doing the normal
sanding sealer coat, it was time to apply the paste wax. Well its been a
little hotter here of late, and on opening the tin, I found the wax was
more liquid than solid. So what the heck, applied it.

The resulting finish was the best I have had with the wax. Has anyone
else experienced this? Or used paste wax in this fashion?
--
John

John wrote:
Was working on a project the other day, and after doing the normal
sanding sealer coat, it was time to apply the paste wax. Well its been a
little hotter here of late, and on opening the tin, I found the wax was
more liquid than solid. So what the heck, applied it.

The resulting finish was the best I have had with the wax. Has anyone
else experienced this? Or used paste wax in this fashion?

Back in the old days, when I was in the (US) Army, we used to polish
floors for one reason or another... whether we wanted to or not.

Johnson's Paste wax was the typical application(because it was
inexpensive and available), and there was always a higher gloss if we
heated it first to make it liquid before application. I've always
assumed it's because the hot, fluid wax was able to flow deeper into the
ancient floor tile, thus producing a better, shinier finish once we
buffed it. (the hot wax treatment seemed to last at least twice as long
as hand application of the solid/paste product). To make it fluid, we'd
set the can on fire then choke off the flame by replacing the top
briefly and then poured and spread the liquid wax, which would have
significant issues today with safety, (potential for burns, setting off
smoke and fire alarms and such), but back then if we had sprinklers in
the barracks, we were in a "new" building...

Ah, the smell of fresh buffed, hot wax. Just the thought brings back
memories.

--Rick

"rick frazier" wrote in message
g.com...
John wrote:
Was working on a project the other day, and after doing the normal
sanding sealer coat, it was time to apply the paste wax. Well its been a
little hotter here of late, and on opening the tin, I found the wax was
more liquid than solid. So what the heck, applied it.

The resulting finish was the best I have had with the wax. Has anyone
else experienced this? Or used paste wax in this fashion?

Back in the old days, when I was in the (US) Army, we used to polish
floors for one reason or another... whether we wanted to or not.

Johnson's Paste wax was the typical application(because it was inexpensive
and available), and there was always a higher gloss if we heated it first
to make it liquid before application. I've always assumed it's because
the hot, fluid wax was able to flow deeper into the ancient floor tile,
thus producing a better, shinier finish once we buffed it. (the hot wax
treatment seemed to last at least twice as long as hand application of the
solid/paste product). To make it fluid, we'd set the can on fire then
choke off the flame by replacing the top briefly and then poured and
spread the liquid wax, which would have significant issues today with
safety, (potential for burns, setting off smoke and fire alarms and such),
but back then if we had sprinklers in the barracks, we were in a "new"
building...

Ah, the smell of fresh buffed, hot wax. Just the thought brings back
memories.

--Rick
And then after the floor was waxed we walked on it only with our wool socks
until the CO's inspection.
After applying paste wax I use a hot air electric gun to make it fluid and I
buff the piece after.

In colder weather (late fall through early spring) I heat my shop with
a barrel stove. When I'm putting the wax on a piece I apply it as
paste and then open the door to the stove and hold it in the high heat
at the open door. I rotate it till the wax melts into the piece and
the wood is warm enough the whole way through. Then I let it cool
slowly. Before I buff it I take it out into the cold for a bit to
harden the wax. It seems to give a more even coating and is easier to
bring up a good shine. If I do a second coat of wax I do it normally
without the heat.

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 17:03:49 -1000, rick frazier wrote:

Back in the old days, when I was in the (US) Army, we used to polish
floors for one reason or another... whether we wanted to or not.

Johnson's Paste wax was the typical application(because it was
inexpensive and available),

I guess you'd have to use Johnson's now, with the friggin' safety laws..

Because they've stayed true to what works, and not added non-skid stuff, they
can't call their product "floor wax" anymore, as I understand it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article m, rick
frazier wrote:

John wrote:
Was working on a project the other day, and after doing the normal
sanding sealer coat, it was time to apply the paste wax. Well its been a
little hotter here of late, and on opening the tin, I found the wax was
more liquid than solid. So what the heck, applied it.

The resulting finish was the best I have had with the wax. Has anyone
else experienced this? Or used paste wax in this fashion?

Back in the old days, when I was in the (US) Army, we used to polish
floors for one reason or another... whether we wanted to or not.

Johnson's Paste wax was the typical application(because it was
inexpensive and available), and there was always a higher gloss if we
heated it first to make it liquid before application. I've always
assumed it's because the hot, fluid wax was able to flow deeper into the
ancient floor tile, thus producing a better, shinier finish once we
buffed it. (the hot wax treatment seemed to last at least twice as long
as hand application of the solid/paste product). To make it fluid, we'd
set the can on fire then choke off the flame by replacing the top
briefly

People used to do that with shoe polish, too.

....and tire patches.

Maybe they were onto something; or it was just silly human tricks.

-j




and then poured and spread the liquid wax, which would have
significant issues today with safety, (potential for burns, setting off
smoke and fire alarms and such), but back then if we had sprinklers in
the barracks, we were in a "new" building...

Ah, the smell of fresh buffed, hot wax. Just the thought brings back
memories.

--Rick

On Jul 31, 9:04*am, ebd wrote:
In colder weather (late fall through early spring) I heat my shop with
a barrel stove. When I'm putting the wax on a piece I apply it as
paste and then open the door to the stove and hold it in the high heat
at the open door. I rotate it till the wax melts into the piece and
the wood is warm enough the whole way through. Then I let it cool
slowly. Before I buff it I take it out into the cold for a bit to
harden the wax. It seems to give a more even coating and is easier to
bring up a good shine. If I do a second coat of wax I do it normally
without the heat.

Funny how we all do similar things, in the late fifties and sixties
when I turned wood in Holland, I would get but ends of beeswax candles
from a hunting friend of my Dad, (he did some of the church shores) I
would hold the candle against the spinning wood and than at high speed
I would press hard with a rag against it, the wax would melt under the
friction heat and that was my finish in those day, looked good IMO.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Thu, 31 Jul 2008 23:40:56 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Funny how we all do similar things, in the late fifties and sixties
when I turned wood in Holland, I would get but ends of beeswax candles
from a hunting friend of my Dad, (he did some of the church shores) I
would hold the candle against the spinning wood and than at high speed
I would press hard with a rag against it, the wax would melt under the
friction heat and that was my finish in those day, looked good IMO.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I used to do that with carnauba wax.. low tech buffing, before I got the Bealle
setup..

Works pretty good if you don't burn your hand or get the rag hung up in the
piece..
A rag flapping around at 3,000 rpm is not a fun thing.... DAMHIKT


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing