For my birthday this past weekend, my wife told me to get what I wanted
within reason (meaning if I washed the dishes a couple of extra times I
could spend around $100). So I ordered the Beall Buffing System as
recommended by many on here.

After taking apart the old bandsaw in the corner, I found I had a 1/2 hp
motor that turned 1725 (seems to be what was recommended). I assembled all
the parts together, put the buffs on and WOW. Quick, painless, and perfect.
Finally a finish that I don't mind putting on.

I'm learning with each piece I buff (learning more about my failures in
sanding than I care to share) and now the plan is to get some bowl buffs to
go with my collection. FYI, anyone considering getting this buffing system,
don't hesitate. I can tell I'm really going to be pleased with it.

The only problem I've run into thus far is after the first couple of bowls I
looked like I was the lint catcher in my wife's dryer. Man do those buffs
throw off a lot of fluff. That seemed to be going away by the time I got to
the last few bowls I had prepared for buffing.

Anyway, thought I'd share and say thanks to those who helped me to make the
decision. Money well spent.

JD
--
He that will make a good use of any part
of his life must allow a large portion of it
to recreation.
- John Locke

"JD " james.smithremove wrote in message
...
snip
The only problem I've run into thus far is after the first couple of bowls
I looked like I was the lint catcher in my wife's dryer. Man do those
buffs throw off a lot of fluff. That seemed to be going away by the time I
got to the last few bowls I had prepared for buffing.

just bought one myself and hooked it up last night. I, too, ignored the
directions about this and learned about lint. Must be a Kentucky thing.
I'm sure all other men read and follow the directions.


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Were there instructions in the box? Hmm, guess I don't need those any more.


JD

--
He that will make a good use of any part
of his life must allow a large portion of it
to recreation.
- John Locke


"Scratch Ankle" wrote in message
...

"JD " james.smithremove wrote in message
...
snip
The only problem I've run into thus far is after the first couple of
bowls I looked like I was the lint catcher in my wife's dryer. Man do
those buffs throw off a lot of fluff. That seemed to be going away by the
time I got to the last few bowls I had prepared for buffing.

just bought one myself and hooked it up last night. I, too, ignored the
directions about this and learned about lint. Must be a Kentucky thing.
I'm sure all other men read and follow the directions.

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

In message , JD
writes
Were there instructions in the box? Hmm, guess I don't need those any more.


JD

Not having one of these kits and going back in memory 30 years .Buff
lightly and if you have loose edges or need to remove old compound
lightly press a file against the wheel ?
--
John

On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 06:40:28 -0400, "Scratch Ankle"
wrote:


"JD " james.smithremove wrote in message
.. .
snip
The only problem I've run into thus far is after the first couple of bowls
I looked like I was the lint catcher in my wife's dryer. Man do those
buffs throw off a lot of fluff. That seemed to be going away by the time I
got to the last few bowls I had prepared for buffing.

just bought one myself and hooked it up last night. I, too, ignored the
directions about this and learned about lint. Must be a Kentucky thing.
I'm sure all other men read and follow the directions.


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

No big thing.. most of the lint is when the wheel is new, and you should be
using dust collection when you buff, anyway..

If you don't use a DC, don't wear dark colored sweats.. DAMHIKT


mac

Please remove [dot]splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 06:40:28 -0400, "Scratch Ankle"
snip

No big thing.. most of the lint is when the wheel is new, and you should
be
using dust collection when you buff, anyway..

If you don't use a DC, don't wear dark colored sweats.. DAMHIKT


mac

I don't need to ask you how you know that. Could have used that advise the
other night.


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Scratch Ankle" wrote in message
...

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 06:40:28 -0400, "Scratch Ankle"
snip

No big thing.. most of the lint is when the wheel is new, and you should
be
using dust collection when you buff, anyway..

If you don't use a DC, don't wear dark colored sweats.. DAMHIKT


mac

I don't need to ask you how you know that. Could have used that advise
the other night.

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Me too!. With my dark green pants and black sweatshirt, I had stripes and
poka dots of lint all over. Having only a small bit hair (that resembles
velcro) I had the same effect on the top of my head as well.

JD

A question for those who have used a shop version of the Beall system
then changed to the real thing. Was the Beall system distinctly better?
If so how much do you think was due to the progression of tripoli-white
diamond-carnauba compared to the progression of
linen-linen/flannel-flannel buffing wheels? I'm assuming the same
rpm.

A similar question for those who have made shop versions of the
Wolverine sharpening system and changed to the real thing.

I'm _not asking for opinions about other ways or systems for buffing or
sharpening or whether to buy or not buy the branded products.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 11:56:08 -0400, (Arch) wrote:

A question for those who have used a shop version of the Beall system
then changed to the real thing. Was the Beall system distinctly better?
If so how much do you think was due to the progression of tripoli-white
diamond-carnauba compared to the progression of
linen-linen/flannel-flannel buffing wheels? I'm assuming the same
rpm.

A similar question for those who have made shop versions of the
Wolverine sharpening system and changed to the real thing.

I'm _not asking for opinions about other ways or systems for buffing or
sharpening or whether to buy or not buy the branded products.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings


Just a note on compounds, Arch...
We started with the little buffer from Penn State Ind. and it was pretty bad,
but the compounds that came with it were very inferior, especially the wax
stick..
Even on the 8" wheels from Beall, the PSI wax was cloudy and sticky compared to
the wax from beall..

If I was building my own system, I'd start with the 3 sticks from Beall... YMWV


mac

Please remove [dot]splinters before emailing

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 11:56:08 -0400, Arch wrote:
A question for those who have used a shop version of the Beall system
then changed to the real thing. Was the Beall system distinctly better?

No.

If so how much do you think was due to the progression of tripoli-white
diamond-carnauba compared to the progression of
linen-linen/flannel-flannel buffing wheels?
Who doesn't do progression of compounds? It's always done for sanding,
plane or scrape-sandpaper-steel wool.

As to linen/flannel, I've used other materials including sisal, denim,
string and nylon for wheels and they each have their values. Linen and
flannel are very cheap, easy to procur and work well for wood.

I use different polishing compounds in addition to tripoli-white diamond-
carnauba and keep a separate wheel for each compound used, beeswax, tung
oil, etc.. I use my system for polishing many materials, wood, metal,
glass, seashells, stone, etc..


I'm assuming the same rpm.

I use variable rpm, different processes need a different rpm.


A similar question for those who have made shop versions of the Wolverine
sharpening system and changed to the real thing.

No experience with wolverine, made my own jigs for sharpening.

Excuse if this is a dumb question Joe, but I'm interested in your 'tung oil'
buffing technique. I've not had a lot of success using tung oil in any way
and I still I have a bunch to use up Also, what other compounds do you
use othe than those you've mentioned?

Tom

"Joe" wrote in message
...

I use different polishing compounds in addition to tripoli-white diamond-
carnauba and keep a separate wheel for each compound used, beeswax, tung
oil, etc.. I use my system for polishing many materials, wood, metal,
glass, seashells, stone, etc..

On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:39:38 +0000, Tom Storey wrote:

Excuse if this is a dumb question Joe, but I'm interested in your 'tung
oil' buffing technique. I've not had a lot of success using tung oil in
any way and I still I have a bunch to use up
No real technique, just apply and buff. Try to buff at an slight angle
5-10deg off of grain. Use heavy pressure for earlier buffs and lighter
pressure for subsequent buffs. Don't contaminate. Use rags, pads, buff
wheels, etc. for only one type of finish each. Don't burn or overheat
when buffing. Use more heat for lower layers and less heat for final
coats. Graduate abrasives and compounds for buff finish as in sanding
from course to fine.

A standard treatment;
Often but not always, apply shellac sealer. Let dry 6 hours. Apply
another coat if needed for staining (colored shellacs) or if wood is
highly absorbent. Sand lightly with #000 steel wool. Buff lightly with
linen wheel. Pad apply Tung oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits onto wood.
Two methods of application based on results desired.

Thicker coats - Coat until stays glossy, usually 3-7 coats. Let sit 40
minutes. Wipe excess off lightly with cotton rag. Better for fine grained
hardwoods.
or
Thin coats - Pad on liberally then wipe off immediately with hard
downward pressure. Better for porous and soft woods.

Place on waxed paper while drying/curing. Let dry overnight. Sand lightly
with #0000 steel wool. Repeat 2-7 days until no more Tung is absorbed
during the 40 minute soak or for however many thin coats you want. Dry/
cure for 16 days plus 2 days per coat; 3 coats = 6 days + 16 = 22 days
total cure, 7 coats =14+16= 30 days total cure time.

Buff at high speed using lambs wool or sometimes step like sandpaper from
fine synthetic abrasives like the white 3m wheels to denim or sisal to
lambs wool. Be careful not to overheat and burn. Assign the buffing wheel
to a finishing compound and only use it for that type of finish.

Occasionally apply a finish wax, beeswax, carnauba or microcrystalline,
as final top coat then a final buffing.

I find buffing along the way keeps each layer clear and enhances the
overall final finish. Conversely, with distinct grain sometimes a quick
finish and wax buffing can get you over 90% of the way there with 10% of
the work. Sometimes you can't tell much difference in a quick finish and
a multi-step finish until months later or after distress, water damage,
UV exposure, etc..

Also, what other compounds do you use other than those you've mentioned?
Many, how about Walnut shells. Walnut shell compounds are great for
brass, glass, stone or other inlay in wood to polish both the wood and
the inlay at the same time. Works well with a microcrystalline wax.
Walnut shells are recommended often for water ring finish repairs.
What specific application are you interested in?

On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:39:38 +0000, Tom Storey wrote:

Excuse if this is a dumb question Joe, but I'm interested in your 'tung
oil' buffing technique. I've not had a lot of success using tung oil in
any way and I still I have a bunch to use up

Not much technique to it. Don't contaminate, use one wheel/rag/sponge
applicator per compound. Don't overheat or burn, use more heat for first
layers and less heat for top coats. Buff 3-10deg off grain. Use more
pressure for first layers and light pressure for top coat buffing.
Slower speed for first layers and higher speed for final buffing.
The sanding and smoothing should be perfect both before and after the
sealer and before and after the finish. If you cut through the sealer or
finish you need to sand and re-apply until a thin even coating is
achieved. Using Tung as the sealer can be tricky if you don't wait long
enough for it to cure before sanding or if you apply it too thick. You
don't want any stickiness left on the Tung finish before you attempt to
buff it. The most common mistake I've seen with Tung oil is buffing
before fully cured. Humidity and possibly even wood moisture content
could affect cure time needed. Tung and other slow drying finishes lend
themselves well to larger workloads. Work can be staged at different
drying points since each piece can take up to 45 days to complete because
of the curing/drying time needed.
Other than that, some finishes don't get along. Some need to be on top
while others need to be on the bottom. You need to keep a chart of
products that work and don't work together. Most make sense, volatiles
under sealers can't vent. Waxes can cause stain penetration problems.
Tung is fairly workable with other finishes, under or over shellacs,
under wax and over stains. Most of the "extra" work won't be noticed
until a few months have passed, UV or moisture exposure, fingerprints
from handling, etc.. A quick oil base and wax top coat buffed out can get
you visually on first inspection about 90% of the way there for about 10%
of the work.


A general Tung Oil finish procedu

Finish sand object up to 220-320 grit.
Often I use shellac as a sealer. Apply and dry for 6 hours.
or
Use Tung oil for sealer, apply thin coat as described below, let dry for
7 days.

Sand with #000 steel wool to cut off the raised grain. Slow speed buff
using heavy pressure and a synthetic abrasive wheel. Then medium speed
buff using light pressure and a sisal wheel with a wet or dry abrasive
compound mixture depending on the wood. Re-apply second coat of sealer.
Sand with #000 steel wool to cut off the raised grain. Slow speed buff
using heavy pressure and a denim or sisal wheel. High speed buff using
super light pressure and a lambs wool wheel. Repeat if needed for full
coverage.

Use a pad to apply Tung Oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits or other
thinner. Use one of the two application methods below based on layer
thickness desired.

For Thick coats - pad generously until surface remains glossy, 3-7 coats.
Let sit 45 minutes. Wipe off excess lightly with cotton rag.

For Thin coats - pad generously. Wipe off immediately with a hard
downward pressure with cotton rag.

Place on waxed paper and let dry overnight. Sand lightly with #0000 steel
wool. Repeat 2-6 times until no more Tung oil is absorbed during 45
minute soak or as many thin coats as you desire. Let dry/cure for 16 days
+ 2 days per coat; 3 coats = 22 days, 7 coats = 30 days. Slow speed,
medium pressure buff using denim. Medium speed, light pressure buff using
sisal. High speed buff, super light pressure using lambs wool.

Optional apply finish wax and high speed, light pressure buff using lambs
wool.



Also, what other compounds do you use other than those you've mentioned?

Many. Walnut shell compounds work great for projects containing inlays of
metal, glass, stone, etc.. You can polish both the inlay and the wood at
the same time.
What application are you specifically interested in?