On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:39:38 +0000, Tom Storey wrote:

Excuse if this is a dumb question Joe, but I'm interested in your 'tung
oil' buffing technique. I've not had a lot of success using tung oil in
any way and I still I have a bunch to use up
No real technique, just apply and buff. Try to buff at an slight angle
5-10deg off of grain. Use heavy pressure for earlier buffs and lighter
pressure for subsequent buffs. Don't contaminate. Use rags, pads, buff
wheels, etc. for only one type of finish each. Don't burn or overheat
when buffing. Use more heat for lower layers and less heat for final
coats. Graduate abrasives and compounds for buff finish as in sanding
from course to fine.

A standard treatment;
Often but not always, apply shellac sealer. Let dry 6 hours. Apply
another coat if needed for staining (colored shellacs) or if wood is
highly absorbent. Sand lightly with #000 steel wool. Buff lightly with
linen wheel. Pad apply Tung oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits onto wood.
Two methods of application based on results desired.

Thicker coats - Coat until stays glossy, usually 3-7 coats. Let sit 40
minutes. Wipe excess off lightly with cotton rag. Better for fine grained
hardwoods.
or
Thin coats - Pad on liberally then wipe off immediately with hard
downward pressure. Better for porous and soft woods.

Place on waxed paper while drying/curing. Let dry overnight. Sand lightly
with #0000 steel wool. Repeat 2-7 days until no more Tung is absorbed
during the 40 minute soak or for however many thin coats you want. Dry/
cure for 16 days plus 2 days per coat; 3 coats = 6 days + 16 = 22 days
total cure, 7 coats =14+16= 30 days total cure time.

Buff at high speed using lambs wool or sometimes step like sandpaper from
fine synthetic abrasives like the white 3m wheels to denim or sisal to
lambs wool. Be careful not to overheat and burn. Assign the buffing wheel
to a finishing compound and only use it for that type of finish.

Occasionally apply a finish wax, beeswax, carnauba or microcrystalline,
as final top coat then a final buffing.

I find buffing along the way keeps each layer clear and enhances the
overall final finish. Conversely, with distinct grain sometimes a quick
finish and wax buffing can get you over 90% of the way there with 10% of
the work. Sometimes you can't tell much difference in a quick finish and
a multi-step finish until months later or after distress, water damage,
UV exposure, etc..

Also, what other compounds do you use other than those you've mentioned?
Many, how about Walnut shells. Walnut shell compounds are great for
brass, glass, stone or other inlay in wood to polish both the wood and
the inlay at the same time. Works well with a microcrystalline wax.
Walnut shells are recommended often for water ring finish repairs.
What specific application are you interested in?