On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:39:38 +0000, Tom Storey wrote:
Excuse if this is a dumb question Joe, but I'm interested in your 'tung
oil' buffing technique. I've not had a lot of success using tung oil in
any way and I still I have a bunch to use up 
Not much technique to it. Don't contaminate, use one wheel/rag/sponge
applicator per compound. Don't overheat or burn, use more heat for first
layers and less heat for top coats. Buff 3-10deg off grain. Use more
pressure for first layers and light pressure for top coat buffing.
Slower speed for first layers and higher speed for final buffing.
The sanding and smoothing should be perfect both before and after the
sealer and before and after the finish. If you cut through the sealer or
finish you need to sand and re-apply until a thin even coating is
achieved. Using Tung as the sealer can be tricky if you don't wait long
enough for it to cure before sanding or if you apply it too thick. You
don't want any stickiness left on the Tung finish before you attempt to
buff it. The most common mistake I've seen with Tung oil is buffing
before fully cured. Humidity and possibly even wood moisture content
could affect cure time needed. Tung and other slow drying finishes lend
themselves well to larger workloads. Work can be staged at different
drying points since each piece can take up to 45 days to complete because
of the curing/drying time needed.
Other than that, some finishes don't get along. Some need to be on top
while others need to be on the bottom. You need to keep a chart of
products that work and don't work together. Most make sense, volatiles
under sealers can't vent. Waxes can cause stain penetration problems.
Tung is fairly workable with other finishes, under or over shellacs,
under wax and over stains. Most of the "extra" work won't be noticed
until a few months have passed, UV or moisture exposure, fingerprints
from handling, etc.. A quick oil base and wax top coat buffed out can get
you visually on first inspection about 90% of the way there for about 10%
of the work.
A general Tung Oil finish procedu
Finish sand object up to 220-320 grit.
Often I use shellac as a sealer. Apply and dry for 6 hours.
or
Use Tung oil for sealer, apply thin coat as described below, let dry for
7 days.
Sand with #000 steel wool to cut off the raised grain. Slow speed buff
using heavy pressure and a synthetic abrasive wheel. Then medium speed
buff using light pressure and a sisal wheel with a wet or dry abrasive
compound mixture depending on the wood. Re-apply second coat of sealer.
Sand with #000 steel wool to cut off the raised grain. Slow speed buff
using heavy pressure and a denim or sisal wheel. High speed buff using
super light pressure and a lambs wool wheel. Repeat if needed for full
coverage.
Use a pad to apply Tung Oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits or other
thinner. Use one of the two application methods below based on layer
thickness desired.
For Thick coats - pad generously until surface remains glossy, 3-7 coats.
Let sit 45 minutes. Wipe off excess lightly with cotton rag.
For Thin coats - pad generously. Wipe off immediately with a hard
downward pressure with cotton rag.
Place on waxed paper and let dry overnight. Sand lightly with #0000 steel
wool. Repeat 2-6 times until no more Tung oil is absorbed during 45
minute soak or as many thin coats as you desire. Let dry/cure for 16 days
+ 2 days per coat; 3 coats = 22 days, 7 coats = 30 days. Slow speed,
medium pressure buff using denim. Medium speed, light pressure buff using
sisal. High speed buff, super light pressure using lambs wool.
Optional apply finish wax and high speed, light pressure buff using lambs
wool.
Also, what other compounds do you use other than those you've mentioned?
Many. Walnut shell compounds work great for projects containing inlays of
metal, glass, stone, etc.. You can polish both the inlay and the wood at
the same time.
What application are you specifically interested in?