I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the wheel?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
news
I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a
problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to
the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the
wheel?


Not sure what your question really is, Mac. Parting should make anything
perpendicular to the blank. If you're boring in advance and running on a
mandrel, you can part. If you're working on a drillpress with a square
blank you use a big Forstner followed by a smaller ... but I'm unsure if
either of these obvious answers would have escaped you.

Mac,

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent
the wheel?

I've seen a picture of a gizmo (technical term) that is held by the
sander's miter gage. In your case it would have a rod that is set
exactly square to the sanding disk. The rod should be a smooth fit
inside the 15 mm brass tube. Slip the blank over the rod and proceed to
sand the end square.

Hope this helps, Harry

On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 08:15:07 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the wheel?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

not meaning to hijack this thread but i have thought about using a
perfume atomizer to spray CA onto pens for finishing. seems like it
could give a much more even coat of CA. but then again it may just
make a mess! :-] to your question: seems you could build a devise to
do this on the sanding disk. make a dowel the right size and mount it
to a block. place it against the miter guage that came with the sander
to keep it square.

skeez

On Oct 3, 7:15 am, mac davis wrote:
I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the wheel?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


Hello Mac,

I've never turned any of those projects, but with the problem you
describe, I've turned many things that need to have the end squared as
you describe. I mount a blank of hardwood in a chuck (or on a
faceplate) and turn a tenon that will just fit into the brass tube and
go clear to the bottom of the hole. Then slip the blank onto the
tenon, bring up the tailstock and square the end with a skew chisel or
parting tool. This technique has worked very well for me on a lot of
different projects and should work on this project.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder/Woodturner/woodturn.htm

On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 13:25:51 -0400, Harry Pye wrote:

Mac,

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent
the wheel?

I've seen a picture of a gizmo (technical term) that is held by the
sander's miter gage. In your case it would have a rod that is set
exactly square to the sanding disk. The rod should be a smooth fit
inside the 15 mm brass tube. Slip the blank over the rod and proceed to
sand the end square.

Hope this helps, Harry

Thanks, Harry... I've seen them in catalogs and might make one..


The main reason that I'd make my own is that since the one you saw is a "1 size
fits all", the rod for the tube is a few inches off the table...
I just can't bring myself to be sanding things on my 12" disk without them being
on the down-side of the disk and ON the table surface..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 13:42:59 -0700, Fred Holder wrote:

On Oct 3, 7:15 am, mac davis wrote:
I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the wheel?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


Hello Mac,

I've never turned any of those projects, but with the problem you
describe, I've turned many things that need to have the end squared as
you describe. I mount a blank of hardwood in a chuck (or on a
faceplate) and turn a tenon that will just fit into the brass tube and
go clear to the bottom of the hole. Then slip the blank onto the
tenon, bring up the tailstock and square the end with a skew chisel or
parting tool. This technique has worked very well for me on a lot of
different projects and should work on this project.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder/Woodturner/woodturn.htm

Thanks, Fred...
Some what of a jam chuck?

I use a similar setup for holding them when buffing... might even be able to use
one of my "buffing dowels" in the spigot jaws...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 15:39:35 GMT, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
news
I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a
problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to
the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the
wheel?


Not sure what your question really is, Mac. Parting should make anything
perpendicular to the blank. If you're boring in advance and running on a
mandrel, you can part. If you're working on a drillpress with a square
blank you use a big Forstner followed by a smaller ... but I'm unsure if
either of these obvious answers would have escaped you.

Hey George...

The blank gets a 15mm hole through it and then a brass tube glued in, like a big
pen... The ends of the blanks (about 3" for body and 1.5" for top) then have to
be squared to the ends of the brass tubes before they're put on the mandrel so
that the end caps and joiners will fit flush all the way around when pressed
in..

Normally, you use a "pen mill" to do this but my mill is 3/4" and not quite
enough to square these ends..
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5386

You buy a shaft of the right size or make bushings, which works up to 3/4" but
you use a 7/8" blank or larger for the atomizers.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3306

They're a PITA to make, compared to pens or bowls, but they sell here... (for
around $30 US)


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Hey George...

The blank gets a 15mm hole through it and then a brass tube glued in, like
a big
pen... The ends of the blanks (about 3" for body and 1.5" for top) then
have to
be squared to the ends of the brass tubes before they're put on the
mandrel so
that the end caps and joiners will fit flush all the way around when
pressed
in..

Normally, you use a "pen mill" to do this but my mill is 3/4" and not
quite
enough to square these ends..
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5386

You buy a shaft of the right size or make bushings, which works up to 3/4"
but
you use a 7/8" blank or larger for the atomizers.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3306

They're a PITA to make, compared to pens or bowls, but they sell here...
(for
around $30 US)


Have to say I see no problem if you use a jig to bore a blank with squared
ends on a drillpress jig. It will then be perpendicular to the ends
automatically. With a nice 80-tooth cutoff making the lengths for you,
you'd have to do some real sanding to beat the finish off the blade!

Seems to be a .6 inch hole for us old folks. I'd make a pin chuck to stuff
inside the brass tube and turn it that way, where both ends could be
re-parted as required.

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 17:26:46 GMT, "George" wrote:


Have to say I see no problem if you use a jig to bore a blank with squared
ends on a drillpress jig. It will then be perpendicular to the ends
automatically. With a nice 80-tooth cutoff making the lengths for you,
you'd have to do some real sanding to beat the finish off the blade!

Seems to be a .6 inch hole for us old folks. I'd make a pin chuck to stuff
inside the brass tube and turn it that way, where both ends could be
re-parted as required.

Wow.. a pin chuck would be a great idea, George...
I think I still have your info on how to make one, have to look around..

I did break down and buy a blank drilling jig.. great investment and replaced
several attempts to build one..
It's helped a lot, as the blank cutting jig for the BS that I made.. (4th or 5th
try)

The pin chuck could replace the pen mandrel and bushings, if I use my micrometer
for the end diameters... The bushings are the same diameter as the end caps and
you turn & sand down to that diameter..

THANKS!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...


I did break down and buy a blank drilling jig.. great investment and
replaced
several attempts to build one..
It's helped a lot, as the blank cutting jig for the BS that I made.. (4th
or 5th
try)

Those who want to make things do double duty might consider one of the
commercial doweling jigs which center on the thickness of the wood by
design. Bushing of appropriate size might be the first thing to look for
before buying!

On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 18:06:50 GMT, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .


I did break down and buy a blank drilling jig.. great investment and
replaced
several attempts to build one..
It's helped a lot, as the blank cutting jig for the BS that I made.. (4th
or 5th
try)

Those who want to make things do double duty might consider one of the
commercial doweling jigs which center on the thickness of the wood by
design. Bushing of appropriate size might be the first thing to look for
before buying!

The pen drilling vise works great... kind of like a drill press vise but as you
turn the handle, both jaws move in or out to keep the stock centered on
"target"..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article , wrote:
I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the
wheel?

I ran into exactly the same problem. I solved it by drilling a 7mm hole
through a chunk of scrap cocobolo, mounting it on a mandrel, and turning it
down to a couple thousandths less than the ID of the perfume atomizer tube.
Voila! a bushing for my pen mill, to keep it centered and aligned in the
atomizer tube.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 23:28:38 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article , wrote:
I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the
wheel?

I ran into exactly the same problem. I solved it by drilling a 7mm hole
through a chunk of scrap cocobolo, mounting it on a mandrel, and turning it
down to a couple thousandths less than the ID of the perfume atomizer tube.
Voila! a bushing for my pen mill, to keep it centered and aligned in the
atomizer tube.

Thanks, Doug...

I tried that and realized that both of my pen mills are to small..
I need to order the larger diameter head...

COCOBOLO???
Damn, I made mine out of corien..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article , wrote:
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 23:28:38 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
I sell a few of these and try to keep an assortment on hand, but have a
problem
squaring the ends with the tube.. these are the ones with the 15mm tube...
Too large of a diameter for my pen mill and the disk sander squares it to the
blank, not the tube..

Anyone come up with something effective, so I don't have to re-invent the
wheel?

I ran into exactly the same problem. I solved it by drilling a 7mm hole
through a chunk of scrap cocobolo, mounting it on a mandrel, and turning it
down to a couple thousandths less than the ID of the perfume atomizer tube.
Voila! a bushing for my pen mill, to keep it centered and aligned in the
atomizer tube.

Thanks, Doug...

I tried that and realized that both of my pen mills are to small..
I need to order the larger diameter head...

COCOBOLO???
Damn, I made mine out of corien..lol

Hey, you use what you have, and I didn't have any Corian. I'm only talking
about a piece half the size of my thumb, anyway. And there's a bonus with
cocobolo, too: it's oily enough that the bushing is self-lubricating.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 17:51:04 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote:


COCOBOLO???
Damn, I made mine out of corien..lol

Hey, you use what you have, and I didn't have any Corian. I'm only talking
about a piece half the size of my thumb, anyway. And there's a bonus with
cocobolo, too: it's oily enough that the bushing is self-lubricating.

True...
I'm leaning towards one of the 3/4" heads with changeable shafts...
The shop made spacers are of, but then you still need a file or something to get
any glue or burrs off the inside of the tube..

After my experience with trying to build a drilling vice before finally just
paying $40 for one, I think I'll go with the pre-made spacers with the groove
for cleaning the inside of the tube..


mac

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