Being able to turn a knob and dial in a higher or lower speed
rather than moving a belt and changing pulleys has become
almost a necessity - for me. Being able to dial down the rpms
for a very delicate cut or to clean up a narrow deep V now
seems crazy at higher rpms. I'm still playing in the lowest
rpm range on the JET mini/midi .

Being able to turn the lathe on and off without having to
pull the tool away to get to the on/off switch has become
a necessity - for me. There are delicate cuts that must
end with the cutting edge at a specific point, and tool
orientation which I formerly blew often pulling the tool
away.

A long goose neck lamp that puts light right where I
need it, yet shields my eyes from the bulb has become
a necessity - for me (and will no doubt require a higher
watt bulb as my vision goes).

An MT jacobs chuck for the tail stock makes drilling,
either with a forstner bit or brad point bit, beats
TRYING to drill a hole in the end of a turned piece
on a drill press - and therefore has become a necessity
- for me.

Turning a tenon on the end of a finial that must fit
a hole in the lid of a turned box - when you can't
fit the tenon to the hole while the finial is on the
lathe - necessitates a dial caliper - a digital dial
caliper.

Having a decent scroll chuck - and several sets of
jaws has become a necessity - for me. The possibilities
it/they opened up changed not only what I can do,
but how I can do it. Definitely THE lathe accessory.

Have you got an "accessory" you didn't know you had
to have until you had it and used it? Why?

charlie b

I think all variable speed lathes should have one button that does it
all, varys the speed and turns the lathe off. Then you never have to
worry about turning the lathe on without having set the speed down to
slow or zero.
robo hippy

On Aug 17, 8:57 am, charlieb wrote:
Being able to turn a knob and dial in a higher or lower speed
rather than moving a belt and changing pulleys has become
almost a necessity - for me. Being able to dial down the rpms
for a very delicate cut or to clean up a narrow deep V now
seems crazy at higher rpms. I'm still playing in the lowest
rpm range on the JET mini/midi .

Being able to turn the lathe on and off without having to
pull the tool away to get to the on/off switch has become
a necessity - for me. There are delicate cuts that must
end with the cutting edge at a specific point, and tool
orientation which I formerly blew often pulling the tool
away.

A long goose neck lamp that puts light right where I
need it, yet shields my eyes from the bulb has become
a necessity - for me (and will no doubt require a higher
watt bulb as my vision goes).

An MT jacobs chuck for the tail stock makes drilling,
either with a forstner bit or brad point bit, beats
TRYING to drill a hole in the end of a turned piece
on a drill press - and therefore has become a necessity
- for me.

Turning a tenon on the end of a finial that must fit
a hole in the lid of a turned box - when you can't
fit the tenon to the hole while the finial is on the
lathe - necessitates a dial caliper - a digital dial
caliper.

Having a decent scroll chuck - and several sets of
jaws has become a necessity - for me. The possibilities
it/they opened up changed not only what I can do,
but how I can do it. Definitely THE lathe accessory.

Have you got an "accessory" you didn't know you had
to have until you had it and used it? Why?

charlie b

Hi Charlie, Gates and different length tool rests in addition to the
one that came with my mini Jet are necessities for me.


Variable speed even for my mini is sort of like power windows once were
for my truck. Seemed unnecessary til I used them a while.


BTW, your perceptive questions, essays and illustrations have become
"necessities" for me and they are terrific "accessories" for all of us.
Many thanks.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Being able to turn a knob and dial in a higher or lower speed
rather than moving a belt and changing pulleys has become
almost a necessity - for me. Being able to dial down the rpms
for a very delicate cut or to clean up a narrow deep V now
seems crazy at higher rpms. I'm still playing in the lowest
rpm range on the JET mini/midi .


I change the tool to suit the cut. Speed doesn't make the shaving, the edge
does. Sometimes I change speeds when roughing. Once per bowl.

Being able to turn the lathe on and off without having to
pull the tool away to get to the on/off switch has become
a necessity - for me. There are delicate cuts that must
end with the cutting edge at a specific point, and tool
orientation which I formerly blew often pulling the tool
away.


So what are you using, a foot switch? Can't think of a cut that I can't
stop anywhere safely by rotating back on the bevel and lifting the edge off
the wood. That is if I can't back it out altogether. Hollowing inside a
small opening is the only place I use the former. Makes it lots easier to
stop the cut if you can get the rest up close, of course.

A long goose neck lamp that puts light right where I
need it, yet shields my eyes from the bulb has become
a necessity - for me (and will no doubt require a higher
watt bulb as my vision goes).


Mine's a clip flood. Actually two. One up, one centerline. I used a
gooseneck for a while, then one of those spring-countered desk lamps (with
magnifier) that kept needing adjustment, and so now lives on the scrollsaw.

An MT jacobs chuck for the tail stock makes drilling,
either with a forstner bit or brad point bit, beats
TRYING to drill a hole in the end of a turned piece
on a drill press - and therefore has become a necessity
- for me.


THAT is a great item. No suitable substitute in any V-block arrangement
I've ever tried.

Turning a tenon on the end of a finial that must fit
a hole in the lid of a turned box - when you can't
fit the tenon to the hole while the finial is on the
lathe - necessitates a dial caliper - a digital dial
caliper.


I use an inside/outside caliper or an open-end wrench. A loose tenon is so
easy to get into shape with bit of sawdust and glue that the error, if any,
should be in that direction. Stuffing an oversize tenon in a smaller hole
splits stuff.

Having a decent scroll chuck - and several sets of
jaws has become a necessity - for me. The possibilities
it/they opened up changed not only what I can do,
but how I can do it. Definitely THE lathe accessory.


Handy. Even handier to have two or three bodies so you don't have to spend
time with magnets or a broom to find the #$5%!! screw you dropped.


Have you got an "accessory" you didn't know you had
to have until you had it and used it? Why?



Asked for and got a bowl steady for Fathers' Day a number of years back.
Love it for bowls, goblets, whatever "hollow forms" I do, and occasionally
for long spindles. Not a necessity, perhaps, but it saves me a lot of
fussing with fine-fine cuts and sanding. Rather have it than a more
expensive "famous name" gouge, that's for sure.

Other is the pin chuck. Can't ask for a more secure hold to start on a big
ugly misshapen lump.

" Have you got an "accessory" you didn't know you had
to have until you had it and used it? Why?

charlie b

is an air compressor an accessory? I find that indespensible, and a couple
of air drills and a spray gun
also, vacuum chuck in a range of sizes
and one of those little 200,000 rpm drills, and a foredom drill with carving
attachment

but the spiral turning attachment that is a fluted wheel on a stick (robert
sorby, I think) sits unused



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

George wrote:

I change the tool to suit the cut. Speed doesn't make the shaving, the edge
does. Sometimes I change speeds when roughing. Once per bowl.

Key word - bowl. And I'm betting you're doing long sweeping cuts for
long radius curves. But when doing small radius beads separated
by what look like thin washers like the ASCII drawn example below
it's nice to use a lower speed when cleaning out the bottom of the
narrow almost vertical side of the "V" cut. Having the foot switch
also lets you place the cutting edge exactly where you want it, with
a tiny bit of the bevel touching the vertical side and THEN get the
piece turning for the clean up cut.
=||( )||( )||=

So what are you using, a foot switch? Can't think of a cut that I can't
stop anywhere safely by rotating back on the bevel and lifting the edge off
the wood. That is if I can't back it out altogether. Hollowing inside a
small opening is the only place I use the former. Makes it lots easier to
stop the cut if you can get the rest up close, of course.

Again, you're thinking in terms of bowl cuts, inside or out. Think
spindle type stuff, especially small, very delicate, fine details
stuff.
In some of that type of turning, if you tilt or rotate the tool even
a little when backing out you can take out a detail you careful made
in a flash.

And sometimes you need the tool rest back a bit to allow space for
maneuvering the tool - like when using a skew and turning details
on a finial. There it may require room to roll the bead or cut a
cove.

I use an inside/outside caliper or an open-end wrench. A loose tenon is so
easy to get into shape with bit of sawdust and glue that the error, if any,
should be in that direction. Stuffing an oversize tenon in a smaller hole
splits stuff.

Think small - real small - 1/8th inch diameter tenon maybe 3/16ths
long.
Too small and narrow for an open end wrench. Too small to use glue
and some sawdust to make a larger diameter if you turn it too small.

Handy. Even handier to have two or three bodies so you don't have to spend
time with magnets or a broom to find the #$5%!! screw you dropped.

A-pheakin-men!

Asked for and got a bowl steady for Fathers' Day a number of years back.
Love it for bowls, goblets, whatever "hollow forms" I do, and occasionally
for long spindles. Not a necessity, perhaps, but it saves me a lot of
fussing with fine-fine cuts and sanding. Rather have it than a more
expensive "famous name" gouge, that's for sure.

Definitely. Hard to make a nice smooth continuous finishing cut when
you have to stop and move the rest -or worse yet - have the tool
hanging out beyond the rest more than is prudent.

Other is the pin chuck. Can't ask for a more secure hold to start on a big
ugly misshapen lump.

On my list. Simple, requires only drilling a hole in the piece - and
works really well.

charlie b

William Noble wrote:

but the spiral turning attachment that is a fluted wheel on a stick (robert
sorby, I think) sits unused

If it's the one with what looks like a gear wheel, try it angled on
a tapered finial and run it up and down the finial. You can cut
what looks like a cork screw with it - after some practice of
course.

charlie b

charlieb wrote:
Being able to turn a knob and dial in a higher or lower speed
rather than moving a belt and changing pulleys has become
almost a necessity - for me. Being able to dial down the rpms
for a very delicate cut or to clean up a narrow deep V now
seems crazy at higher rpms. I'm still playing in the lowest
rpm range on the JET mini/midi .

Being able to turn the lathe on and off without having to
pull the tool away to get to the on/off switch has become
a necessity - for me. There are delicate cuts that must
end with the cutting edge at a specific point, and tool
orientation which I formerly blew often pulling the tool
away.

A long goose neck lamp that puts light right where I
need it, yet shields my eyes from the bulb has become
a necessity - for me (and will no doubt require a higher
watt bulb as my vision goes).

My ceiling is low over the lathe, so I use a ceiling mounted outdoor
spotlight fixture with a high intensity spot bulb mounted over my
tailstock end. With a wall switch mounted beside it.

An MT jacobs chuck for the tail stock makes drilling,
either with a forstner bit or brad point bit, beats
TRYING to drill a hole in the end of a turned piece
on a drill press - and therefore has become a necessity
- for me.

Watch that chuck taper when you back out. My chuck pulled off it's
taper once while backing out. It was attached to a spade bit and
imagine that chuck whirling around slamming the ways every rotation.
And the switch was on the other side of the throw line. I just ran and
threw the breaker. That is a poor man's stress test.


Turning a tenon on the end of a finial that must fit
a hole in the lid of a turned box - when you can't
fit the tenon to the hole while the finial is on the
lathe - necessitates a dial caliper - a digital dial
caliper.

check. But mine isn't digital.

Having a decent scroll chuck - and several sets of
jaws has become a necessity - for me. The possibilities
it/they opened up changed not only what I can do,
but how I can do it. Definitely THE lathe accessory.

Have you got an "accessory" you didn't know you had
to have until you had it and used it? Why?

charlie b

I just had three more tool rests made by a local guy. A 6 inch long L
shaped skinny one for working inside deep small bowls. A 6 inch one
mounted on the front of the post with a curve on the end for similar
use. A 2 1/2 inch high one for use with my router to round really
irregular chunks. The chunk is hand turned while the router hangs over
the rest with a home-made brass baseplate that has a piece that clips
over the tool rest. He charged me $10 for all three! I paid him $25
plus a small bowl I made using the tool rests.

Before anyone says it, I already had a flat scraper rest for deep
boxes and bowls, but I really don't use a scraper unless I have to.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

The large print giveth and the small
print taketh away.

On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 08:57:33 -0700, charlieb wrote:

Being able to turn a knob and dial in a higher or lower speed
rather than moving a belt and changing pulleys has become
almost a necessity - for me. Being able to dial down the rpms
for a very delicate cut or to clean up a narrow deep V now
seems crazy at higher rpms. I'm still playing in the lowest
rpm range on the JET mini/midi .

My Jet mini is not vs, but my Jet 1442 is... being lazy, I don't use the mini
much.. lol
My next lathe, hopefully in my life time, will be digital speed and reversing...

Being able to turn the lathe on and off without having to
pull the tool away to get to the on/off switch has become
a necessity - for me. There are delicate cuts that must
end with the cutting edge at a specific point, and tool
orientation which I formerly blew often pulling the tool
away.

I like remote switches... I use plastic outlet boxes on my lathes with a "push
to stop" button... I epoxy a good size rare earth magnet and large washer to the
bottom of the box, so I can stick it on the lathe near my elbow, knee, hip,
whatever... very handy and saves wear and tear on the tools own switch..

A long goose neck lamp that puts light right where I
need it, yet shields my eyes from the bulb has become
a necessity - for me (and will no doubt require a higher
watt bulb as my vision goes).

I'll turn under artificial light, but try only to finish turn and sand under
natural light...
When I turn at night, I use a 500 watt work light, reflecting off the ceiling...
just seems to give me the most comfortable amount of light without a lot of
glare.. It helps to have 10' ceilings painted white for good reflection..

An MT jacobs chuck for the tail stock makes drilling,
either with a forstner bit or brad point bit, beats
TRYING to drill a hole in the end of a turned piece
on a drill press - and therefore has become a necessity
- for me.

Yep... inexpensive item that pays for itself in a hurry....
If I need a really accurate hole in a thin pen blank, I'll use the lathe to
drill it..
Beware of the Morse taper working loose, though... pretty nasty when you're
backing a 2" forstner bit out of the hole and the chuck decides to part company
with the tail stock... DAMHIKT

Turning a tenon on the end of a finial that must fit
a hole in the lid of a turned box - when you can't
fit the tenon to the hole while the finial is on the
lathe - necessitates a dial caliper - a digital dial
caliper.

I have one, but usually use a shop made diameter gauge... Mine's just a piece of
3/8" oak that I drilled several size holes in and then cut in half...
No numbers to read, easy to use and if you're really careful, can be used with
the lathe running.. (Don't try this at home, kids)

Having a decent scroll chuck - and several sets of
jaws has become a necessity - for me. The possibilities
it/they opened up changed not only what I can do,
but how I can do it. Definitely THE lathe accessory.

Yep.. My first Talon changed my turning... wish I'd bought one 10 or 12 years
earlier!
A few years ago, I used an extended visit from the kids as an excuse to buy
another Talon.. It's really nice to have normal jaws on one and spigot jaws on
the other and just pick up the one you need..

Have you got an "accessory" you didn't know you had to have until you had it and used it? Why?

The vacuum chuck system that Bill Noble helped my set up...

I thought it would be nice to use for a bowl bottom once in a while, but
constantly find more uses for it...
I've been "re-turning" stuff that I thought was really well done a few years
ago... I guess we've all been there, but usually there isn't a lot you can do
but just not look at it..lol
I've been taking thick walled, chunky stuff that my wife had stained and poly
coated, (we thought it was really nice at the time), and turning them again,
inside and out...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Said as only George can say.

If everyone was all they think they are this would be such a wonderful
world

Charlie, you just turning and trying. One of these days you just might reach
those lofty heights. Meanwhile, keep communicating candidly with the rest of
us as we journey along in our ignorance with you LOL & :-)

TomNie


"George" wrote in message
. net...

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Key word - bowl.

Nope and nope. Spindles and ornaments too. 1/8 inch stuff.

And I'm betting you're doing long sweeping cuts for
long radius curves. But when doing small radius beads separated
by what look like thin washers like the ASCII drawn example below
it's nice to use a lower speed when cleaning out the bottom of the
narrow almost vertical side of the "V" cut. Having the foot switch
also lets you place the cutting edge exactly where you want it, with
a tiny bit of the bevel touching the vertical side and THEN get the
piece turning for the clean up cut.
=||( )||( )||=

So what are you using, a foot switch? Can't think of a cut that I can't
stop anywhere safely by rotating back on the bevel and lifting the edge
off
the wood. That is if I can't back it out altogether. Hollowing inside
a
small opening is the only place I use the former. Makes it lots easier
to
stop the cut if you can get the rest up close, of course.

Again, you're thinking in terms of bowl cuts, inside or out. Think
spindle type stuff, especially small, very delicate, fine details
stuff.
In some of that type of turning, if you tilt or rotate the tool even
a little when backing out you can take out a detail you careful made
in a flash.


Nope, you may assume, but I mean what I say. I'm a "feedback" turner, and
work my bevels in two full and one partial dimension. Simple thing to do
as I do if you plan ahead. But if you don't believe anything I've said,
only what you think, no reason to think you'll believe it now. Turn a few
more years and you'll probably get where you find yourself doing it too.


And sometimes you need the tool rest back a bit to allow space for
maneuvering the tool - like when using a skew and turning details
on a finial. There it may require room to roll the bead or cut a
cove.

I use an inside/outside caliper or an open-end wrench. A loose tenon
is so
easy to get into shape with bit of sawdust and glue that the error, if
any,
should be in that direction. Stuffing an oversize tenon in a smaller
hole
splits stuff.

Think small - real small - 1/8th inch diameter tenon maybe 3/16ths
long.
Too small and narrow for an open end wrench. Too small to use glue
and some sawdust to make a larger diameter if you turn it too small.


I guess you don't have a set of point wrenches. I find glue expands the
grain pretty well, much less the dusty shims on any thickness, even
veneer. Don't use a skew to cut beads, use a chisel. Why take chances?

Handy. Even handier to have two or three bodies so you don't have to
spend
time with magnets or a broom to find the #$5%!! screw you dropped.

A-pheakin-men!

Asked for and got a bowl steady for Fathers' Day a number of years back.
Love it for bowls, goblets, whatever "hollow forms" I do, and
occasionally
for long spindles. Not a necessity, perhaps, but it saves me a lot of
fussing with fine-fine cuts and sanding. Rather have it than a more
expensive "famous name" gouge, that's for sure.

Definitely. Hard to make a nice smooth continuous finishing cut when
you have to stop and move the rest -or worse yet - have the tool
hanging out beyond the rest more than is prudent.

Curved rest should be on your list. Not one of those round things, one
with good control at close quarters like
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st...rve_rest?Args=
which allows you to snuggle up close to the swing point and still have
clearance to cut below center.

Not sure why anyone would want to use it outside, but they say it works
that way too.

On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:52:04 -0400, "Tom Nie" wrote:

Said as only George can say.

If everyone was all they think they are this would be such a wonderful
world

Charlie, you just turning and trying. One of these days you just might reach
those lofty heights. Meanwhile, keep communicating candidly with the rest of
us as we journey along in our ignorance with you LOL & :-)

TomNie

I don't know what Tom said, but I like the way he said it...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:52:04 -0400, "Tom Nie" wrote:

Said as only George can say.

If everyone was all they think they are this would be such a wonderful
world

Charlie, you just turning and trying. One of these days you just might
reach
those lofty heights. Meanwhile, keep communicating candidly with the rest
of
us as we journey along in our ignorance with you LOL & :-)

TomNie

I don't know what Tom said, but I like the way he said it...


I think Tom values his opinions as anyone else does. I value mine as well.
When I say that speed change doesn't matter to me except to slow for an
out-of-balance piece, and that any tool can be stopped from cutting by not
advancing and steadied while the lathe is turned off by letting the bevel
ride on the piece and rest, I mean just that. Consider the classic
reciprocating lathe where that was done alternately as the piece was rotated
into and away from the edge. It's a simple concept. Now expand your mind a
touch and consider that when you can't see it, you can still feel what's
happening. Charlie's contention that some things need to be stopped to move
the tool to a new cutting position doesn't make sense, because the tool must
still be steadied until the rotation ceases. He's doing it, he just doesn't
choose to acknowledge it. It's similar to people who say they must have
infinitely variable speed, and then don't vary it as they're cutting. They
still have one speed at a time!

Floor switches are a potential problem, both for their position beneath
shavings generated, and the dampness of green wood shavings. If the switch
place there is not just a break, but also a make, the chances of initiating
rotation accidentally must also be considered. I prefer the method of
mounting the switch above and behind the ways, out of the damp and the mess,
and out of the throw zone for faceplate, though not just faceplate,
mounting.

Doesn't matter what you're cutting, though for some reason Charlie decided
it only counted in bowls of a certain type.

Nope, you may assume, but I mean what I say. I'm a "feedback" turner, and
work my bevels in two full and one partial dimension. Simple thing to do as
I do if you plan ahead. But if you don't believe anything I've said, only
what you think, no reason to think you'll believe it now. Turn a few more
years and you'll probably get where you find yourself doing it too.

George,

My objection was simply your arrogance. The tone, not the content. Maybe, in
fairness, I simply took it the wrong way.

TomNie



"George" wrote in message
. net...

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 14:52:04 -0400, "Tom Nie" wrote:

Said as only George can say.

If everyone was all they think they are this would be such a wonderful
world

Charlie, you just turning and trying. One of these days you just might
reach
those lofty heights. Meanwhile, keep communicating candidly with the rest
of
us as we journey along in our ignorance with you LOL & :-)

TomNie

I don't know what Tom said, but I like the way he said it...


I think Tom values his opinions as anyone else does. I value mine as
well. When I say that speed change doesn't matter to me except to slow for
an out-of-balance piece, and that any tool can be stopped from cutting by
not advancing and steadied while the lathe is turned off by letting the
bevel ride on the piece and rest, I mean just that. Consider the classic
reciprocating lathe where that was done alternately as the piece was
rotated into and away from the edge. It's a simple concept. Now expand
your mind a touch and consider that when you can't see it, you can still
feel what's happening. Charlie's contention that some things need to be
stopped to move the tool to a new cutting position doesn't make sense,
because the tool must still be steadied until the rotation ceases. He's
doing it, he just doesn't choose to acknowledge it. It's similar to people
who say they must have infinitely variable speed, and then don't vary it
as they're cutting. They still have one speed at a time!

Floor switches are a potential problem, both for their position beneath
shavings generated, and the dampness of green wood shavings. If the
switch place there is not just a break, but also a make, the chances of
initiating rotation accidentally must also be considered. I prefer the
method of mounting the switch above and behind the ways, out of the damp
and the mess, and out of the throw zone for faceplate, though not just
faceplate, mounting.

Doesn't matter what you're cutting, though for some reason Charlie decided
it only counted in bowls of a certain type.

Arch wrote:

snip

BTW, your perceptive questions, essays and illustrations have become
"necessities" for me and they are terrific "accessories" for all of us.
Many thanks.

Arch:

When there are good examples to follow, and this group has so many
good examples, you certainly being one, it encourages topics of
discussion
and observations and experiences to share that go beyond What Tool,
What Wood, What Shape, How Should I. There's an abundance of info
on
WHAT & HOW but very little about WHY.

If nothing else, my hope is that someone in the group will read or
see
something I've done and think "If even that quy can do it - well I
sure
as hell can!" - and try something they were interested in but thought
was be too difficult. And by providing some about WHY, perhaps it'll
get someone thinking about the way they approach their next project a
little differently.

Anyway, thanks for the kind words - and encouragement. Much
appreciated - especially coming from you sir.

charlie b