Said as only George can say.

If everyone was all they think they are this would be such a wonderful
world

Charlie, you just turning and trying. One of these days you just might reach
those lofty heights. Meanwhile, keep communicating candidly with the rest of
us as we journey along in our ignorance with you LOL & :-)

TomNie


"George" wrote in message
. net...

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Key word - bowl.

Nope and nope. Spindles and ornaments too. 1/8 inch stuff.

And I'm betting you're doing long sweeping cuts for
long radius curves. But when doing small radius beads separated
by what look like thin washers like the ASCII drawn example below
it's nice to use a lower speed when cleaning out the bottom of the
narrow almost vertical side of the "V" cut. Having the foot switch
also lets you place the cutting edge exactly where you want it, with
a tiny bit of the bevel touching the vertical side and THEN get the
piece turning for the clean up cut.
=||( )||( )||=

So what are you using, a foot switch? Can't think of a cut that I can't
stop anywhere safely by rotating back on the bevel and lifting the edge
off
the wood. That is if I can't back it out altogether. Hollowing inside
a
small opening is the only place I use the former. Makes it lots easier
to
stop the cut if you can get the rest up close, of course.

Again, you're thinking in terms of bowl cuts, inside or out. Think
spindle type stuff, especially small, very delicate, fine details
stuff.
In some of that type of turning, if you tilt or rotate the tool even
a little when backing out you can take out a detail you careful made
in a flash.


Nope, you may assume, but I mean what I say. I'm a "feedback" turner, and
work my bevels in two full and one partial dimension. Simple thing to do
as I do if you plan ahead. But if you don't believe anything I've said,
only what you think, no reason to think you'll believe it now. Turn a few
more years and you'll probably get where you find yourself doing it too.


And sometimes you need the tool rest back a bit to allow space for
maneuvering the tool - like when using a skew and turning details
on a finial. There it may require room to roll the bead or cut a
cove.

I use an inside/outside caliper or an open-end wrench. A loose tenon
is so
easy to get into shape with bit of sawdust and glue that the error, if
any,
should be in that direction. Stuffing an oversize tenon in a smaller
hole
splits stuff.

Think small - real small - 1/8th inch diameter tenon maybe 3/16ths
long.
Too small and narrow for an open end wrench. Too small to use glue
and some sawdust to make a larger diameter if you turn it too small.


I guess you don't have a set of point wrenches. I find glue expands the
grain pretty well, much less the dusty shims on any thickness, even
veneer. Don't use a skew to cut beads, use a chisel. Why take chances?

Handy. Even handier to have two or three bodies so you don't have to
spend
time with magnets or a broom to find the #$5%!! screw you dropped.

A-pheakin-men!

Asked for and got a bowl steady for Fathers' Day a number of years back.
Love it for bowls, goblets, whatever "hollow forms" I do, and
occasionally
for long spindles. Not a necessity, perhaps, but it saves me a lot of
fussing with fine-fine cuts and sanding. Rather have it than a more
expensive "famous name" gouge, that's for sure.

Definitely. Hard to make a nice smooth continuous finishing cut when
you have to stop and move the rest -or worse yet - have the tool
hanging out beyond the rest more than is prudent.

Curved rest should be on your list. Not one of those round things, one
with good control at close quarters like
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st...rve_rest?Args=
which allows you to snuggle up close to the swing point and still have
clearance to cut below center.

Not sure why anyone would want to use it outside, but they say it works
that way too.