"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Being able to turn a knob and dial in a higher or lower speed
rather than moving a belt and changing pulleys has become
almost a necessity - for me. Being able to dial down the rpms
for a very delicate cut or to clean up a narrow deep V now
seems crazy at higher rpms. I'm still playing in the lowest
rpm range on the JET mini/midi .


I change the tool to suit the cut. Speed doesn't make the shaving, the edge
does. Sometimes I change speeds when roughing. Once per bowl.

Being able to turn the lathe on and off without having to
pull the tool away to get to the on/off switch has become
a necessity - for me. There are delicate cuts that must
end with the cutting edge at a specific point, and tool
orientation which I formerly blew often pulling the tool
away.


So what are you using, a foot switch? Can't think of a cut that I can't
stop anywhere safely by rotating back on the bevel and lifting the edge off
the wood. That is if I can't back it out altogether. Hollowing inside a
small opening is the only place I use the former. Makes it lots easier to
stop the cut if you can get the rest up close, of course.

A long goose neck lamp that puts light right where I
need it, yet shields my eyes from the bulb has become
a necessity - for me (and will no doubt require a higher
watt bulb as my vision goes).


Mine's a clip flood. Actually two. One up, one centerline. I used a
gooseneck for a while, then one of those spring-countered desk lamps (with
magnifier) that kept needing adjustment, and so now lives on the scrollsaw.

An MT jacobs chuck for the tail stock makes drilling,
either with a forstner bit or brad point bit, beats
TRYING to drill a hole in the end of a turned piece
on a drill press - and therefore has become a necessity
- for me.


THAT is a great item. No suitable substitute in any V-block arrangement
I've ever tried.

Turning a tenon on the end of a finial that must fit
a hole in the lid of a turned box - when you can't
fit the tenon to the hole while the finial is on the
lathe - necessitates a dial caliper - a digital dial
caliper.


I use an inside/outside caliper or an open-end wrench. A loose tenon is so
easy to get into shape with bit of sawdust and glue that the error, if any,
should be in that direction. Stuffing an oversize tenon in a smaller hole
splits stuff.

Having a decent scroll chuck - and several sets of
jaws has become a necessity - for me. The possibilities
it/they opened up changed not only what I can do,
but how I can do it. Definitely THE lathe accessory.


Handy. Even handier to have two or three bodies so you don't have to spend
time with magnets or a broom to find the #$5%!! screw you dropped.


Have you got an "accessory" you didn't know you had
to have until you had it and used it? Why?



Asked for and got a bowl steady for Fathers' Day a number of years back.
Love it for bowls, goblets, whatever "hollow forms" I do, and occasionally
for long spindles. Not a necessity, perhaps, but it saves me a lot of
fussing with fine-fine cuts and sanding. Rather have it than a more
expensive "famous name" gouge, that's for sure.

Other is the pin chuck. Can't ask for a more secure hold to start on a big
ugly misshapen lump.