Greetings!
Another newbie question....My lathe has a switch for forward and
reverse direction (yep...It changes the direction of rotation of the
stock...)

FWIW, there is no shaft on the "other" end of the headstock....

Could anyone enlighten me as to when I might actually use this feature?
Thanks!

Hal

wrote in message
s.com...
Greetings!
Another newbie question....My lathe has a switch for forward and
reverse direction (yep...It changes the direction of rotation of the
stock...)

FWIW, there is no shaft on the "other" end of the headstock....

Could anyone enlighten me as to when I might actually use this feature?
Thanks!

You would LOCK whatever you were using that was threaded onto the spindle
with a secondary lock if you wanted to turn left-handed.

Some people think that sanding in reverse helps. No need when power
sanding, only pushes down what was up and picks up what was down on a bowl.
What people want, manufacturers provide, especially since its cheap and
easy.

Sure would have been nice for them to include something on the other end to
rotate by hand. Good for checking toolrest clearance and such.

With a variable speed, I use it a lot to put on and remove a
chuck/faceplate, and anything else that screws on. Also I use it a lot
sanding, both hand and power sanding. For some reason I prefer to power
sand the outside in foreward, and the inside in reverse.
robo hippy
George wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
Greetings!
Another newbie question....My lathe has a switch for forward and
reverse direction (yep...It changes the direction of rotation of the
stock...)

FWIW, there is no shaft on the "other" end of the headstock....

Could anyone enlighten me as to when I might actually use this feature?
Thanks!

You would LOCK whatever you were using that was threaded onto the spindle
with a secondary lock if you wanted to turn left-handed.

Some people think that sanding in reverse helps. No need when power
sanding, only pushes down what was up and picks up what was down on a bowl.
What people want, manufacturers provide, especially since its cheap and
easy.

Sure would have been nice for them to include something on the other end to
rotate by hand. Good for checking toolrest clearance and such.

On Jan 4, 3:06 pm, "George" wrote:
snip
Sure would have been nice for them to include something on the other end to
rotate by hand. Good for checking toolrest clearance and such.
snip

I would have been *very* nice. But I guess I'll just have to deal!
Thanks for the help!

On Jan 4, 3:32 pm, "robo hippy" wrote:
With a variable speed, I use it a lot to put on and remove a
chuck/faceplate, and anything else that screws on. Also I use it a lot
sanding, both hand and power sanding. For some reason I prefer to power
sand the outside in foreward, and the inside in reverse.
robo hippy

The lathe is a "stepped pully design" (I'm sure there's a term for
that) so, reverse isn't going to make mounting a chuck any easier! s
I'll try sanding in both directions, though. Thanks for the tip!

Hal

Hi Hal, After this thread, you're no longer a newbie, so jump in "early
& often".

Is it possible that the flush outboard spindle has a short section of
internal (female) threads? I once had a lathe that did. Guelph, IIRC?
I turned a nice maple handwheel and bolted it to the spindle's "other
end'. What lathe do you have?

Not clear why a stepped pulley drive won't work for you? Like Reed, I
use reverse a lot to screw and unscrew accessories to/from the spindle.
I stop before slamming them on tight or dropping them off the spindle.
Sometimes I use reverse to back out a drill stuck in swarf and to help
clean up a long ragged drilled hole. I make sure to hold onto the blank
or the tailstock chuck.

Not knowing any better, I find that reverse sanding can be useful when
sanding stringy wood or removing burnish marks. Some things 'seem' to
work for me that science insists can't, so I just keep on 'doing it
wrong' til science catches up.
I bet I'm not the only woodturner who not knowing any better, does
things that can't work.

For some hollowing out work, I sometimes turn inboard in reverse, ie.
across the lathe bed with the blank coming down to the tool on the other
side like the old song "she's too fat for me". A bad description, but
don't try it until the blank is secure from unwinding off the spindle
and slamming up side your head. The woodturning slope is not only
addicting, it's slippery. Maybe that's why it's so much fun.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Not knowing any better, I find that reverse sanding can be useful when
sanding stringy wood or removing burnish marks. Some things 'seem' to
work for me that science insists can't, so I just keep on 'doing it
wrong' til science catches up.
I bet I'm not the only woodturner who not knowing any better, does
things that can't work.

Ah, the power of the placebo!

George rightly suggests the power of the placebo. I add: ...and the
success of arguments that appeal to authority.

Not many established beliefs last forever.
Remember that starch and sugar pills were once thought to be inert
controls.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"George" wrote: Ah, the power of the placebo!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I asked my son's shop teacher about this, and he said, "Just reverse the
sandpaper."

However, I think I can explain why reversing the rotation works: As sanding
progresses in a singoe direction, short hairs of wood fibre are pressed down
and not removed. When the rotation is reversed, these fibres meet the
sandpaper head-on, and are at least partially removed.

What I find just as effective is to apply a little sanding sealer before the
sanding is complete. This penetrates the wood, and holds the fibres from
moving, so the sanding has a more solid surface to work into.

This could also be due to the placebo effect--I have never done control
experiments, or heard of any.

Arch's point about reversing the rotation, and turning inside and backside
should not be missed. You get better visibility, don't lean as much, keep
the toolrest on the front of the lathe where there is more room, and keep
your arms nearer the body for less fatigue and more control.

George wrote:

Some people think that sanding in reverse helps. No need when power
sanding, only pushes down what was up and picks up what was down on a

Don't know if it works better one way or another, but it is more
comfortable to have the machine in reverse when sanding - the dust
shoots away from you and gravity helps hold the hand in position. And I
can see where I'm sanding better.

Not a necessity, but definitely handy...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

On Jan 5, 9:57 am, (Arch) wrote:
Snip
Not clear why a stepped pulley drive won't work for you?
Snip

Mostly because it seems like too much effort. s By the time I make
sure I'm on a slow speed (and/or set the speed) I could have threaded
the faceplate on by hand. In other words, it *will* work...I just
don't bother.

Hal

On Jan 5, 9:57 am, (Arch) wrote:
Snip
Is it possible that the flush outboard spindle has a short section of
internal (female) threads? I once had a lathe that did. Guelph, IIRC?
I turned a nice maple handwheel and bolted it to the spindle's "other
end'. What lathe do you have?
Snip

The Maple handwheel sounds awesome. My lathe is an old (OK...Very
old!) Craftsman single tube. The headstock is bored all the way
through (no internal threads) and the "business end" is No.1 MT, 3/4-16
external thread.

While a handwheel (Or the option to mount a sanding disc "outboard")
would be nice, I've never had either. So I don't miss them, mostly.
s

Hal

Hi
I've tried using the sander sealer to finish the sanding ( lathe has no reverse ) but all that seems to happen, is the wax in the sealer just gums up the sand paper. What type/brand of sealer do you use, should i let it dry or sand straight away etc.
I have tried using a mixture of veg oil and minerial oil, which seems to work well. I have read this would be better with bee's wax added, but again think this would just clog the sandpaper.
Your thoughts and advice please
Mark

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"George" wrote: Ah, the power of the placebo!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I asked my son's shop teacher about this, and he said, "Just reverse the
sandpaper."

However, I think I can explain why reversing the rotation works: As
sanding progresses in a singoe direction, short hairs of wood fibre are
pressed down and not removed. When the rotation is reversed, these fibres
meet the sandpaper head-on, and are at least partially removed.

Of course you are not dealing with flat stock where the grain climbs or
dives pretty much on the whole board, but a bowl. Means there will be a
pair of points while rotating in either direction where you pick up,
pressing down at the opposite. Solution to one problem creates another.
That you reverse and do more sanding may remove more wood, certainly makes
you feel involved (placebo), and if power sanding results in a crossing
pattern in reverse if you use the opposite clock position on the disk.

As to visibility, not sure. I can see the other side of the bowl better if
my hand isn't in the way, especially given the hams I have at the end of my
arms. Since things are rotating, I see everything I need to see, just a bit
later. Would simplify dust pickup placement, but that which carried and
ejected from the rim would be more likely to affect your nose, coming at you
as it would be.

"Woodborg" wrote in message
...
What I find just as effective is to apply a little
sanding sealer before the
sanding is complete. This penetrates the wood, and holds the fibres
from
moving, so the sanding has a more solid surface to work into.

Hi
I've tried using the sander sealer to finish the sanding ( lathe has no
reverse ) but all that seems to happen, is the wax in the sealer just
gums up the sand paper. What type/brand of sealer do you use, should i
let it dry or sand straight away etc.
I have tried using a mixture of veg oil and minerial oil, which seems
to work well. I have read this would be better with bee's wax added,
but again think this would just clog the sandpaper.
Your thoughts and advice please

Your sanding sealer shouldn't have wax in it, rather a resin of some sort, a
solvent, and perhaps stearates (soap). It's really, less the stearates, a
thinned version of the lacquer or shellac you would use as a finish. Which
is why they put stearates on the sandpaper itself for those who want to use
a 1/2# cut of shellac for the purpose.

I say shellac, because alcohol gives a fuzz set better than lacquer thinner.
As you sand, you heat the fiber and dehydrate it. When it gets some fresh
water or other polar solvent it begins to bind to the cellulose and swells
it up again. The resin acts as the mousse (viagra for the otherwise
minded), holding the fibers up for the paper to cut.

Unfortunately, shellac melts at about 150 or so, which means it gums the
paper. Use an open coat, preferably stearated paper for sanding after a
sealer, and your broadest footprint on the powered sandpaper to reduce the
load/unit of area and keep the heat down. Hand sanding, lathe off, along
the grain is going to give you the optical best. Might want to check while
you do that to see if you don't cut opposite after passing the very bottom!

What I do is power sand at 320, set with a wet rag, let dry and sand again
at 320 or 400 with as little pressure as possible, usually along the grain.
No sense pressing down what I just pushed up above the surface. Rather cut
'em off. If the bowl will be simply oiled for salad/popcorn use, I set at
220 and 320. Makes for less fuzz when wiped with vinegar.

Hi Hal

Hal there are a few good uses for reverse direction lathe uses, most
common is the sanding in both directions, it gives a better result than
sanding in only one direction, there's the oddball that thinks it makes
no difference, however a sandpaper is a cutting tool, and if used
properly it does cut the wood not merely lay the wood fibers down, like
a wood plane will lift and grab the wood when going against the grain
so will sharp sandpaper lift the wood fibers and then cut it off.

Hollowing on the back side is another use, I have used this when
working over the ways, though I hollow turn almost exclusively
outboard, but there are times I am not able to do this.

Another use is when thread tapping, after tapping into the work-piece
one can reverse and take the tap back out, much faster than hand
turning the tap back out.

As for the hand wheel, yes that is handy to have, like hand turning the
work-piece for inspection or just to slow down the lathe faster, or to
hold the lathe shaft while spinning a chuck or faceplate on or off, a
left hand threaded rod and plug that fit the morse taper in the
headstock and a turned hand wheel on the outside would be one way to go
about it.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo
http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum28.html


wrote:
Greetings!
Another newbie question....My lathe has a switch for forward and
reverse direction (yep...It changes the direction of rotation of the
stock...)

FWIW, there is no shaft on the "other" end of the headstock....

Could anyone enlighten me as to when I might actually use this feature?
Thanks!

Hal

In article ,
"George" wrote:

Unfortunately, shellac melts at about 150 or so, which means it gums the
paper.

Ahh yes, another reason in favor of slo-speed sanding...

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"George" wrote:

Unfortunately, shellac melts at about 150 or so, which means it gums the
paper.

Ahh yes, another reason in favor of slo-speed sanding...

--
Yeah, right. And which is slow? The sander or the sandee?

In article ,
"George" wrote:

Unfortunately, shellac melts at about 150 or so, which means it gums the
paper.

Ahh yes, another reason in favor of slo-speed sanding...

--
Yeah, right. And which is slow? The sander or the sandee?

In my case, both are one and the same, and slow by all accounts.

150F is pretty hot to the touch - if during sanding I feel that kind of
heat, I slow down the rpms. Lightening the touch isn't much of an option
as I don't press much at all - just enough to keep the san'paper in
contact and working.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"George" wrote:

Unfortunately, shellac melts at about 150 or so, which means it gums
the
paper.

Ahh yes, another reason in favor of slo-speed sanding...

--
Yeah, right. And which is slow? The sander or the sandee?

In my case, both are one and the same, and slow by all accounts.

150F is pretty hot to the touch - if during sanding I feel that kind of
heat, I slow down the rpms. Lightening the touch isn't much of an option
as I don't press much at all - just enough to keep the san'paper in
contact and working.


Ok, Owen, I'm convinced. Now take your message to these folks.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...n&key=379-1800
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merc...nd-grexairdril

Or any of the other makers of orbital, random orbital, or other sanders
making 10-25 THOUSAND orbits per minute.

Or you could try sanding with minimal pressure, then put the push in and
burn the hooks off your velcro....