A while back, I reported that the cheap angle/close quarter drill that
I purchased died as the bearings wore out. Well, one of the guys in our
club asked for it to check it out and see if he could replace the
bearings ( Oh Boy! This gives me something to do in my lunch hour!) Any
way the report came back that the bearings were fine, but that the
plastic case had worn out. I had noticed that the mandril had a lot of
play in it, say + or - almost 1/8 inch. The wear was the reason. He is
going to epoxy it and see if that will work for another short while.
Some of the turners up in Salem (Willamette Valley Woodturners) got
some. 2 out of the three they got had the trigger switch go bad. Has
anyone else out there had any mechanical failures with them?

I did get my money worth of use and abuse out of it, and I will wait
until my other Sioux/Milwaukee drills die before getting another one.

robo hippy

On 12 Feb 2006 17:10:34 -0800, "robo hippy" wrote:

A while back, I reported that the cheap angle/close quarter drill that
I purchased died as the bearings wore out. Well, one of the guys in our
club asked for it to check it out and see if he could replace the
bearings ( Oh Boy! This gives me something to do in my lunch hour!) Any
way the report came back that the bearings were fine, but that the
plastic case had worn out. I had noticed that the mandril had a lot of
play in it, say + or - almost 1/8 inch. The wear was the reason. He is
going to epoxy it and see if that will work for another short while.
Some of the turners up in Salem (Willamette Valley Woodturners) got
some. 2 out of the three they got had the trigger switch go bad. Has
anyone else out there had any mechanical failures with them?

I did get my money worth of use and abuse out of it, and I will wait
until my other Sioux/Milwaukee drills die before getting another one.

robo hippy

mine's still chugging... I'm using it most nights and weekends...
I don't do your volume, Reed, but I'm sure it's done close to 100 bowls and worn
out 3 or 4 sanding mandrels...
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Hi Reed

I have commented before on the problem with the milwaukee type drills,
in that the bearing ceases up and then the drill is toast more or less,
there is a chance that you can epoxy the bearing "exactly centered"
back in, but than the real problem is still not addressed, and that is
grit getting into the bearing, as that is the mayor cause of bearing
ceasing up.

So if you are successful getting the bearing housing repaired, I would
recommend that you instal a sealed bearing if you want to keep using
that drill.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Well, it just happens that I have a Milwaukee (Sioux) drill apart right
now. It would only run in reverse -- the switch would not move.

This is the older model with the push/pull switch on the back. I
recently bought a new one -- a factory remanufactured on a web site for
about $55.00 delivered. So, if I can get the old one working again, I
would have the luxury of having two and if I can't, no big deal.

In this case, the problem is the detent mechanism on the switch. It
seems to be ok electrically but you just can't get it to move. It is a
bunch of plastic stuff and looks pretty badly thought out to me although
I'm not an engineer. In my newer one the switch is now on the top of
the housing so I can guess that they had plenty of trouble with the old
design.

The bearings and all the other stuff seems to be in pretty good shape,
though, as far as I can tell. There is sanding dust in there but
nothing to interfere with the operation.

Wish me luck.

Bill

wrote:
Hi Reed

I have commented before on the problem with the milwaukee type drills,
in that the bearing ceases up and then the drill is toast more or less,
there is a chance that you can epoxy the bearing "exactly centered"
back in, but than the real problem is still not addressed, and that is
grit getting into the bearing, as that is the mayor cause of bearing
ceasing up.

So if you are successful getting the bearing housing repaired, I would
recommend that you instal a sealed bearing if you want to keep using
that drill.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Bill Rubenstein wrote:

This is the older model with the push/pull switch on the back. I
recently bought a new one -- a factory remanufactured on a web site for
about $55.00 delivered. So, if I can get the old one working again, I
would have the luxury of having two and if I can't, no big deal.


What's the web site? Seems like a good deal.

Currently the drill is back together and working in one direction --
forward. Before it was stuck in backward.

The reversing switch is toast -- it is bound up and can't be made to
move with the poorly designed paddle thing. I'll price a replacement
switch tomorrow.

Bill

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
Well, it just happens that I have a Milwaukee (Sioux) drill apart right
now. It would only run in reverse -- the switch would not move.

This is the older model with the push/pull switch on the back. I
recently bought a new one -- a factory remanufactured on a web site for
about $55.00 delivered. So, if I can get the old one working again, I
would have the luxury of having two and if I can't, no big deal.

In this case, the problem is the detent mechanism on the switch. It
seems to be ok electrically but you just can't get it to move. It is a
bunch of plastic stuff and looks pretty badly thought out to me although
I'm not an engineer. In my newer one the switch is now on the top of
the housing so I can guess that they had plenty of trouble with the old
design.

The bearings and all the other stuff seems to be in pretty good shape,
though, as far as I can tell. There is sanding dust in there but
nothing to interfere with the operation.

Wish me luck.

Bill

wrote:

Hi Reed

I have commented before on the problem with the milwaukee type drills,
in that the bearing ceases up and then the drill is toast more or less,
there is a chance that you can epoxy the bearing "exactly centered"
back in, but than the real problem is still not addressed, and that is
grit getting into the bearing, as that is the mayor cause of bearing
ceasing up.

So if you are successful getting the bearing housing repaired, I would
recommend that you instal a sealed bearing if you want to keep using
that drill.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I was wondering if somebody was going to ask.

It was www.ubid.com. They had a lot of 30 or so of them and they went
pretty fast. They don't normally have a lot of tools and when you sign
up with them you will get lots of email about watches, laptops, and the
like. On the other hand, I saved something north of $100.00 so I guess
I can read some of their email. I paid $52.95 btw.

Lobby Dosser wrote:
Bill Rubenstein wrote:


This is the older model with the push/pull switch on the back. I
recently bought a new one -- a factory remanufactured on a web site for
about $55.00 delivered. So, if I can get the old one working again, I
would have the luxury of having two and if I can't, no big deal.



What's the web site? Seems like a good deal.

I hate to do this in case I need another one but...

http://www.ubid.com/actn/opn/getpage...onId=601527445

Bill

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
I was wondering if somebody was going to ask.

It was www.ubid.com. They had a lot of 30 or so of them and they went
pretty fast. They don't normally have a lot of tools and when you sign
up with them you will get lots of email about watches, laptops, and the
like. On the other hand, I saved something north of $100.00 so I guess
I can read some of their email. I paid $52.95 btw.

Lobby Dosser wrote:

Bill Rubenstein wrote:


This is the older model with the push/pull switch on the back. I
recently bought a new one -- a factory remanufactured on a web site
for about $55.00 delivered. So, if I can get the old one working
again, I would have the luxury of having two and if I can't, no big
deal.



What's the web site? Seems like a good deal.

I guess I don't see what the attraction is with angle drills. They seem
like knuckle busters and have a built in problem with the bearing. I have a
Makita 6501 which is a nice light 1/4" drill that I have been very happy
with and have used for 500+ bowls with no repairs.

Derek (or Sara?)...

I felt the same way about angle drills until I tried one. I'll never go
back. For some reason they are much easier for me to control,
especially inside bowls.

Bill

Derek & Sara Hartzell wrote:
I guess I don't see what the attraction is with angle drills. They seem
like knuckle busters and have a built in problem with the bearing. I have a
Makita 6501 which is a nice light 1/4" drill that I have been very happy
with and have used for 500+ bowls with no repairs.

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
. com...
Derek (or Sara?)...

I felt the same way about angle drills until I tried one. I'll never go
back. For some reason they are much easier for me to control, especially
inside bowls.


You should try supported sanding with a flexible shaft.

I never used the Makita drills, but have a friend who has one for each
grit. With the long 90 degree handle, it works fine for smaller bowls,
but on larger, deeper bowls I would think that they (handle) get in the
way. I like to work the pad almost flat, and you can keep it flat all
the way from the rim to the bottom of a big, deep bowl without any
knuckle busting. I never counted how many bowls I can get from one
drill, but 500 plus would be a good guess. I put the soft thick pads on
the mandrill so that I wear them out ($6 for a 3 inch pad) rather than
the mandril ($19 for a 3 inch). I can go through 6 or so soft pads a
year. Do you use 2 or three inch pads and discs? This does make a
difference on wear and tear.
robo hippy

Bill Rubenstein wrote:

http://www.ubid.com/actn/opn/getpage...onId=601527445

Thanks Bill. Closed by the time I got there.

It would appear that this is a regular item, though, so it would just
take a watchful eye to hit the next one.

Bill

Lobby Dosser wrote:
Bill Rubenstein wrote:


http://www.ubid.com/actn/opn/getpage...onId=601527445


Thanks Bill. Closed by the time I got there.

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 10:52:51 -0800, "Derek & Sara Hartzell"
wrote:

I guess I don't see what the attraction is with angle drills. They seem
like knuckle busters and have a built in problem with the bearing. I have a
Makita 6501 which is a nice light 1/4" drill that I have been very happy
with and have used for 500+ bowls with no repairs.


I use both...
I find that for deep bowls the conventional drill reaches the bottom easier
without using extension pads.. also ok for outside of bowls..

the right angle/close quarter is comfortable and balanced for longer use and
just feels more natural when sanding inside bowls, as long as the bowl is big
enough to get it into.. YMWV
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Bill the good new is that the drill is running in one direction. the bad
news is the old type switches are not longer available. I've been
looking for over a year. I even checked with Sioux the original
manufacturer of this drill. If you happen to find a source, PLEASE pass
it on.

Juergen

Bill Rubenstein wrote:

Currently the drill is back together and working in one direction --
forward. Before it was stuck in backward.

The reversing switch is toast -- it is bound up and can't be made to
move with the poorly designed paddle thing. I'll price a replacement
switch tomorrow.

Bill

Bill Rubenstein wrote:

Well, it just happens that I have a Milwaukee (Sioux) drill apart
right now. It would only run in reverse -- the switch would not move.

This is the older model with the push/pull switch on the back. I
recently bought a new one -- a factory remanufactured on a web site
for about $55.00 delivered. So, if I can get the old one working
again, I would have the luxury of having two and if I can't, no big deal.

In this case, the problem is the detent mechanism on the switch. It
seems to be ok electrically but you just can't get it to move. It is
a bunch of plastic stuff and looks pretty badly thought out to me
although I'm not an engineer. In my newer one the switch is now on
the top of the housing so I can guess that they had plenty of trouble
with the old design.

The bearings and all the other stuff seems to be in pretty good shape,
though, as far as I can tell. There is sanding dust in there but
nothing to interfere with the operation.

Wish me luck.

Bill

wrote:

Hi Reed

I have commented before on the problem with the milwaukee type drills,
in that the bearing ceases up and then the drill is toast more or less,
there is a chance that you can epoxy the bearing "exactly centered"
back in, but than the real problem is still not addressed, and that is
grit getting into the bearing, as that is the mayor cause of bearing
ceasing up.

So if you are successful getting the bearing housing repaired, I would
recommend that you instal a sealed bearing if you want to keep using
that drill.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Juergen:

Thanks for the information. I hadn't had a chance to research the
availability and price for a replacement part so you've saved me the
trouble.

I guess that I could run the wires from the brushes out of the case,
remove the switch and speed control (both functions in one plastic
thingy) and duplicate the function externally -- a lot of trouble.

Or I could modify the case to take the new control -- also a lot of trouble.

Maybe there should be a tool junk yard where one can buy the parts from
toasted tools which have not failed. On the other hand, I think that
with this particular tool the chance of that switch having failed is
pretty near 100%.

Bill

Juergen wrote:
Bill the good new is that the drill is running in one direction. the bad
news is the old type switches are not longer available. I've been
looking for over a year. I even checked with Sioux the original
manufacturer of this drill. If you happen to find a source, PLEASE pass
it on.

Juergen

Bill Rubenstein wrote:

Currently the drill is back together and working in one direction --
forward. Before it was stuck in backward.

The reversing switch is toast -- it is bound up and can't be made to
move with the poorly designed paddle thing. I'll price a replacement
switch tomorrow.

Bill

Bill Rubenstein wrote:

Well, it just happens that I have a Milwaukee (Sioux) drill apart
right now. It would only run in reverse -- the switch would not move.

This is the older model with the push/pull switch on the back. I
recently bought a new one -- a factory remanufactured on a web site
for about $55.00 delivered. So, if I can get the old one working
again, I would have the luxury of having two and if I can't, no big
deal.

In this case, the problem is the detent mechanism on the switch. It
seems to be ok electrically but you just can't get it to move. It is
a bunch of plastic stuff and looks pretty badly thought out to me
although I'm not an engineer. In my newer one the switch is now on
the top of the housing so I can guess that they had plenty of trouble
with the old design.

The bearings and all the other stuff seems to be in pretty good
shape, though, as far as I can tell. There is sanding dust in there
but nothing to interfere with the operation.

Wish me luck.

Bill

wrote:

Hi Reed

I have commented before on the problem with the milwaukee type drills,
in that the bearing ceases up and then the drill is toast more or less,
there is a chance that you can epoxy the bearing "exactly centered"
back in, but than the real problem is still not addressed, and that is
grit getting into the bearing, as that is the mayor cause of bearing
ceasing up.

So if you are successful getting the bearing housing repaired, I would
recommend that you instal a sealed bearing if you want to keep using
that drill.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo