Well I have tried LDD treatment for wood and I am finding that my
sandpaper clogs up immediatly. I think it was Lief that mentioned that
the paper could be tapped on a hard surface and it would clean itself.
I have not found that to be the case. Need help on sanding some spalted
punky birch that has been treated with LDD. By the way that is
Dishwashing Detergent not Automatic Dishwasher Detergent I hope.

Rod

wrote in message
oups.com...
Well I have tried LDD treatment for wood and I am finding that my
sandpaper clogs up immediatly. I think it was Lief that mentioned that
the paper could be tapped on a hard surface and it would clean itself.
I have not found that to be the case. Need help on sanding some spalted
punky birch that has been treated with LDD. By the way that is
Dishwashing Detergent not Automatic Dishwasher Detergent I hope.


LDD is for green wood, and not for "punky spalted";
or have I missed something?

Bjarte

wrote in message
oups.com...
Well I have tried LDD treatment for wood and I am finding that my
sandpaper clogs up immediatly. I think it was Lief that mentioned that
the paper could be tapped on a hard surface and it would clean itself.
I have not found that to be the case. Need help on sanding some spalted
punky birch that has been treated with LDD. By the way that is
Dishwashing Detergent not Automatic Dishwasher Detergent I hope.


Soft brass brush will do the clean. Stiff nylon toothbrush in a pinch.
You don't have to rush to sand while the surface is full of glycerol, you
know. It'll evaporate in a couple of days.

On wet stock - no LDD, just wet - I generally just run a sand at 120 or 150
after spinning out as much moisture as possible, reserving the 220 and 320
for when it's dry (er). They clog too badly, else. Just be careful not to
overheat when it's getting dry.

Yep, high-suds/humectant-added hand washing stuff is what he preaches.
Madge is gone, but we still have Leif.

In article ,
"Bjarte Runderheim" wrote:


LDD is for green wood, and not for "punky spalted";
or have I missed something?

Bjarte

Yes!
Check out the original user of LDD, Ron Kent. He is he
http://www.ronkent.com/RKhome.html
It certainly does help with punky spalted wood BUT, be very careful. Do
not leave the wood in the LDD too long. It should be only for a few
minutes and when turned past the penetration level the LDD should be
re-applied. If you leave it to soak you will not get any finish to stay
on the wood as penetration can be 100% in just a few hours. Once the LDD
is in the wood it can only be removed with a soak in water, then
microwave, repeating cycle until no more foam appears.

--
Remove no & spam to email

meet me at:
http://peterhyde.bravehost.com/

On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 15:46:40 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


wrote in message
roups.com...
Well I have tried LDD treatment for wood and I am finding that my
sandpaper clogs up immediatly. I think it was Lief that mentioned that
the paper could be tapped on a hard surface and it would clean itself.
I have not found that to be the case. Need help on sanding some spalted
punky birch that has been treated with LDD. By the way that is
Dishwashing Detergent not Automatic Dishwasher Detergent I hope.


Soft brass brush will do the clean. Stiff nylon toothbrush in a pinch.
You don't have to rush to sand while the surface is full of glycerol, you
know. It'll evaporate in a couple of days.

On wet stock - no LDD, just wet - I generally just run a sand at 120 or 150
after spinning out as much moisture as possible, reserving the 220 and 320
for when it's dry (er). They clog too badly, else. Just be careful not to
overheat when it's getting dry.

Yep, high-suds/humectant-added hand washing stuff is what he preaches.
Madge is gone, but we still have Leif.

Well!! You just wait until I have completed all the operations,
George! Ol' Madgie will be back in town!!*G*

A side note about the topic, all the advice given is good. The
thoroughly punked out wood that I have turned, didn't have any green
wood portions, so I didn't bother with LDD. Some punky wood still has
green areas and then I would use LDD. For really punky wood I used
repeated dowsings of wood hardener. Seemed to work just fine!

Definitely dishwashing soap (washing up soap for the more UK/Oz/NZ
oriented?)

Leif

Thanks for the help. Too late smart and too soon oldt. Already soaked
the wood overnight I guess I was reading Liefs instructions and it
seemed he was soaking all of the samples overnight and then turning
them. Is there no finish that will adhere to this stuff. I was hoping
for stabilization as I am making a lidded box as a test of the process.
I am thinking that to resoak the wood will destabalize it again.

Rod

Hi Leif
Things are definitly working. Thanks for the tip on wood hrdener. I
am confused as I thought the LDD had to soak into the wood to stabalize
it and yet in Ron Kents article it appears that he just wipes it on and
then turns the wood. You seem to soak it overnight. In any case does
the LDD have to be compleatly removed in order for a finish to adhere
to the work? I like to turn objects with a natural edge on them with
the bark on. To do this I usually treat the bark with CA glue to
ensure that it does not fall off somwhere down the line. Can I use LDD
treatment for works like this.

Rod

Thanks for the help. Too late smart and too soon oldt. Already soaked
the wood overnight I guess I was reading Liefs instructions and it
seemed he was soaking all of the samples overnight and then turning
them. Is there no finish that will adhere to this stuff. I was hoping
for stabilization as I am making a lidded box as a test of the process.
I am thinking that to resoak the wood will destabalize it again.

Rod

On 17 Jan 2006 19:53:02 -0800, wrote:

Hi Leif
Things are definitly working. Thanks for the tip on wood hrdener. I
am confused as I thought the LDD had to soak into the wood to stabalize
it and yet in Ron Kents article it appears that he just wipes it on and
then turns the wood. You seem to soak it overnight. In any case does
the LDD have to be compleatly removed in order for a finish to adhere
to the work? I like to turn objects with a natural edge on them with
the bark on. To do this I usually treat the bark with CA glue to
ensure that it does not fall off somwhere down the line. Can I use LDD
treatment for works like this.

Rod

Rod, old chap! The article I sent out dealt with my problem waiting
on wood to dry under the old, hoary methods. Perhaps I wasn't
specific enough in the article, but it dealt with green wood. As to
soaking overnight, that pretty well applies to green wood, or green
wood that is getting to the punky stage.

Most of your questions are answered in my 'World-famous Treatise on
LDD.' CA glue works great on any of the bowls whose wood is damp from
the LDD. Finish adheres very nicely to even slightly damp bowls!!

You're heading in the right direction, just don't soak badly punked
logs or blanks for the reasons learned above. Ron Kent's article was
never updated by him, so we don't know the experience he had with the
changes he suggested he would do in the LDD technique. As to his
slathering on LDD in successive treatments, I deemed that too time
consuming, messy and boring so went directly to the soak-them method.

Leif

On 17 Jan 2006 19:53:02 -0800, wrote:

Hi Leif
Things are definitly working. Thanks for the tip on wood hrdener. I
am confused as I thought the LDD had to soak into the wood to stabalize
it and yet in Ron Kents article it appears that he just wipes it on and
then turns the wood. You seem to soak it overnight. In any case does
the LDD have to be compleatly removed in order for a finish to adhere
to the work? I like to turn objects with a natural edge on them with
the bark on. To do this I usually treat the bark with CA glue to
ensure that it does not fall off somwhere down the line. Can I use LDD
treatment for works like this.

Rod


Rod, old chap!Please re-read the The World-famous Treatise on LDD. I
would say that most of your answers are to be found there. Briefly,
the article dealt with green wood. It can be immediately turned after
you have cut and stolen your neighbor's tree. He won't recognize it
in the LDD or after it has been turned. Green wood you can soak for a
few minutes if you have to leave the shop for a bit, or can stay on
mounted on the lathe. Can be dangerous. If you are to be gone for a
while, soak it for a few hours, a few months or a few years. Just
don't soak extremely punky wood. The finish will adhere to a slightly
damp object, so put it on immediately to prevent cracking or warping.
I like natural edged bowls also and the CA glue works just fine on
slightly damp ones.

Leif

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Leif
Things are definitly working. Thanks for the tip on wood hrdener. I
am confused as I thought the LDD had to soak into the wood to stabalize
it and yet in Ron Kents article it appears that he just wipes it on and
then turns the wood. You seem to soak it overnight. In any case does
the LDD have to be compleatly removed in order for a finish to adhere
to the work? I like to turn objects with a natural edge on them with
the bark on. To do this I usually treat the bark with CA glue to
ensure that it does not fall off somwhere down the line. Can I use LDD
treatment for works like this.


What you're doing is the type of work _least_ likely to crack while drying.
Interrupted-edge stuff is generally turned thin from the get-go and allowed
to warp quietly. My experience says 3/8 or less has to be abused to get it
to crack.

I'd suggest opening the ears and flying without the feather here. Lots of
wood has been dryed defect-free with no outside influence. Here's an
example which should have cracked for certain with pith and all.
http://photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...t=ff519f4b.jpg
Reason it's a touch thick is that it was so punky and soggy it was moving
too much to get an accurate gouge cut. That, and there was a guy inside
looking at me.
http://photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...t=e9b2539f.jpg


Once your piece is dry, the only chemistry which might bother you would be
the extra surfactant flattening a water-based finish.

On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:48:55 -0800, Leif Thorvaldson wrote:

snip
For really punky wood I used repeated dowsings of wood hardener. Seemed to work just fine!

viagra?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article .com,
wrote:

Thanks for the help. Too late smart and too soon oldt. Already soaked
the wood overnight I guess I was reading Liefs instructions and it
seemed he was soaking all of the samples overnight and then turning
them. Is there no finish that will adhere to this stuff. I was hoping
for stabilization as I am making a lidded box as a test of the process.
I am thinking that to resoak the wood will destabalize it again.

Rod

Hi Rod
Bummer! I had 3 pieces of Mountain ash that were starting to spalt and
had some small punky areas, nothing bigger than a quarter. So I did the
usual, "throw it in the LDD until I can get around to turn it", routine.
Must have been in there about 10 days. Anyway the punky areas will not
take any finish at all. I was so pee'd off that I ended up remounting
and re-turning the 3 small bowls to about 3/16"-1/4" thickness and then
soaked them in warm water for a few hours. Then into the microwave, on
high until they start steaming, remove and let cool, and then repeat ad
nauseum. I gave up as the soap suds kept coming even after 30 or more
cycles. Threw them in the corner and left them for about 6 months all
through a very hot summer. When I got back to them there were no cracks
and they felt really dry but were very bleached. So I gave them some BLO
and that brought back the colour but the BLO would not dry in the punky
spots. I washed them in alcohol, in lacquer thinners, in acetone but the
BLO still would not dry where it was punky. Did the water soak and
microwave again and still got lots of soap suds. So in desperation after
they had dried out again I tried lacquer, wouldn't dry. Shellac,
wouldn't dry. And finally wipe on poly which was better but even now
after 2 years there is still one patch that will not dry. So I learned
my lesson. However the LDD is a real help with turning punky wood as it
definitely helps with the cutting and seriously reduces tear out,
meaning a lot less sanding. Would I try it again? Yes but it would be a
brush it on, leave for a few minutes, wipe off excess and turn. When the
LDD has been cut off then repeat until turning is finished and then a
final dry sanding.
I would think if your wood has only been soaked overnight there might be
a good chance the penetration is minimal. Mine was 100%.
If this is the case so I would say go for it you really have nothing to
lose.
Peter

--
Remove no & spam to email

meet me at:
http://peterhyde.bravehost.com/