DIYbanter - View Single Post

On 17 Jan 2006 19:53:02 -0800, wrote:

Hi Leif
Things are definitly working. Thanks for the tip on wood hrdener. I
am confused as I thought the LDD had to soak into the wood to stabalize
it and yet in Ron Kents article it appears that he just wipes it on and
then turns the wood. You seem to soak it overnight. In any case does
the LDD have to be compleatly removed in order for a finish to adhere
to the work? I like to turn objects with a natural edge on them with
the bark on. To do this I usually treat the bark with CA glue to
ensure that it does not fall off somwhere down the line. Can I use LDD
treatment for works like this.

Rod

Rod, old chap! The article I sent out dealt with my problem waiting
on wood to dry under the old, hoary methods. Perhaps I wasn't
specific enough in the article, but it dealt with green wood. As to
soaking overnight, that pretty well applies to green wood, or green
wood that is getting to the punky stage.

Most of your questions are answered in my 'World-famous Treatise on
LDD.' CA glue works great on any of the bowls whose wood is damp from
the LDD. Finish adheres very nicely to even slightly damp bowls!!

You're heading in the right direction, just don't soak badly punked
logs or blanks for the reasons learned above. Ron Kent's article was
never updated by him, so we don't know the experience he had with the
changes he suggested he would do in the LDD technique. As to his
slathering on LDD in successive treatments, I deemed that too time
consuming, messy and boring so went directly to the soak-them method.

Leif