wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Leif
Things are definitly working. Thanks for the tip on wood hrdener. I
am confused as I thought the LDD had to soak into the wood to stabalize
it and yet in Ron Kents article it appears that he just wipes it on and
then turns the wood. You seem to soak it overnight. In any case does
the LDD have to be compleatly removed in order for a finish to adhere
to the work? I like to turn objects with a natural edge on them with
the bark on. To do this I usually treat the bark with CA glue to
ensure that it does not fall off somwhere down the line. Can I use LDD
treatment for works like this.


What you're doing is the type of work _least_ likely to crack while drying.
Interrupted-edge stuff is generally turned thin from the get-go and allowed
to warp quietly. My experience says 3/8 or less has to be abused to get it
to crack.

I'd suggest opening the ears and flying without the feather here. Lots of
wood has been dryed defect-free with no outside influence. Here's an
example which should have cracked for certain with pith and all.
http://photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...t=ff519f4b.jpg
Reason it's a touch thick is that it was so punky and soggy it was moving
too much to get an accurate gouge cut. That, and there was a guy inside
looking at me.
http://photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...t=e9b2539f.jpg


Once your piece is dry, the only chemistry which might bother you would be
the extra surfactant flattening a water-based finish.