I've been using this type of glove
http://www.bossgloves.com/htm/gloves/coated/1SN2714.htm for applying finish
on bowls. I think they cost $6-$8/pair. After a few months I have to throw
them out because they build up too many coats of finish and get stiff. I
have been considering switching to a cheaper glove. I like these gloves
because they have flocking on the inside, a wide gauntlet, and are stiff
enough that I can slip then on and off without turning them inside out like
a thin latex medical glove. I often apply finish to 30 bowls at a time so
the inside of the gloves gets a little sweaty which would make removal
difficult with a skin-tight type glove. I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil
gunstock oil varnish as my main finish.

Anyone have recommendations for a glove that is cheaper but can be slipped
off without twisting inside out so I can reuse them a number of times?

Thanks,

Derek

I used to use those gloves when I poured concrete. They will take a lot
of abuse, and you can wash out the insides (hose, or even in the
washer). For finishing, I like the nitrile gloves (blue). I get them at
a safety supply store, a box of 100 for $10 or so. I do sweat a lot,
and they get wet inside, so I just use another pair. They are more
supple than the concrete gloves, they come in an extra large size, and
they are much more tear risistant than the vynal golves. I am usually
wet sanding in an oil finish, when I use them, and the suppleness is
necessary.
robo hippy

"Derek Hartzell" wrote in message
...
I've been using this type of glove
http://www.bossgloves.com/htm/gloves/coated/1SN2714.htm for applying
finish
on bowls. I think they cost $6-$8/pair. After a few months I have to
throw
them out because they build up too many coats of finish and get stiff. I
have been considering switching to a cheaper glove. I like these gloves
because they have flocking on the inside, a wide gauntlet, and are stiff
enough that I can slip then on and off without turning them inside out
like
a thin latex medical glove. I often apply finish to 30 bowls at a time so
the inside of the gloves gets a little sweaty which would make removal
difficult with a skin-tight type glove. I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil
gunstock oil varnish as my main finish.

Anyone have recommendations for a glove that is cheaper but can be slipped
off without twisting inside out so I can reuse them a number of times?


http://www.buyemp.com/product/1090207.html Good protection, pretty tough.
http://www.buyemp.com/product/1090202.html Bit better "feel," though not as
rip resistant.

You roll them off, let 'em dry inside out if you've been sweating, invert
and give a puff of air to inflate them in the proper direction for
subsequent wear.

http://www.buyemp.com/product/1090301.html Are nice if your hands sweat too
much.

Of course I pay for any I use in wood finishing.

In article .com,
"robo hippy" wrote:

They are more
supple than the concrete gloves...

But they just don't go with my concrete shoes.

they come in an extra large size

braggart

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.