Hi:

I hope somebody can help me; I was given a not very new Sears Craftsman
1hp 12 inch lathe and I am just getting around to playing with it. My
question is, how do you get the headstock pin out of its spindle? I
hope I'm saying the vocab right; I took a class recently on how to do
lathes, and I was on this jet whose headstock pin popped out by pushing
into a hole from behind, down the shaft. This Craftsman has a hole in
the back of the drive, but you have to take the motor cover off to get
there and the thing isn't budging. It's slightly rusted; maybe that's
it. Anybody know how this thing works?

Thanks in advance.

My Craftsman, as nicely as I can say it, is also "older" (about 30) but it
is one of the few craftsman tools for which I still have respect. On mine,
you lift the cover to the pulley and will find that the pulley shaft is
hollow. Stick a wooden dowel, 8-10" long in the hole and tap. The bit
should pop out of the other end. I use a wooden dowel because I would be
afraid of damage otherwise. While you are there it is not a bad idea to
check the allen head screw which holds the pulley to the shaft. It will
work loose over time.

Bob Moody

"B Moody" wroteclip) Stick a wooden dowel, 8-10" long in the hole and
tap. The bit should pop out of the other end. I use a wooden dowel
because I would be afraid of damage otherwise.(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sometimes those can be VERY hard to dislodge, so don't be too surprised if
the wooden dowel doesn't do it. BE CAREFUL not to crush the dowel in there
so you can't get it all out. If the dowel just mushrooms, or splits, or
just bows, and doesn't do it, don't hesitate to use a metal drift. It
should be as large a diameter as will fit in, to minimize bowing. Use a
good heavy hammer, but start with sharp, light blows, and keep increasing
the blows. If you do damage the small end of the taper, that's not the end
of the world--you need it out of there. If you do spread the end a little,
you can dress it on a grinding wheel and still use it.

Sometimes it helps to apply heat, but that's a whole 'nother story.

On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 01:09:42 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"B Moody" wroteclip) Stick a wooden dowel, 8-10" long in the hole and
tap. The bit should pop out of the other end. I use a wooden dowel
because I would be afraid of damage otherwise.(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sometimes those can be VERY hard to dislodge, so don't be too surprised if
the wooden dowel doesn't do it. BE CAREFUL not to crush the dowel in there
so you can't get it all out. If the dowel just mushrooms, or splits, or
just bows, and doesn't do it, don't hesitate to use a metal drift. It
should be as large a diameter as will fit in, to minimize bowing. Use a
good heavy hammer, but start with sharp, light blows, and keep increasing
the blows. If you do damage the small end of the taper, that's not the end
of the world--you need it out of there. If you do spread the end a little,
you can dress it on a grinding wheel and still use it.

Usually (but not always), drive spurs and other Morse taper implements
have a half inch or so of relief (markedly smaller diameter) at the
skinny end to try to keep that from happening.

Even if you somehow smoked the drive center, another one's only a
double sawbuck or so, right?

One other thing to be careful of: Sears' single tube lathe has #1 MT,
but they also made one around 35 years ago that was a two tube
el-cheapo, and I think the drive center on that was part of the arbor.
I don't think it could be removed. My memory's a little hazy about
that, though.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

"LRod" wrote in message
...
One other thing to be careful of: Sears' single tube lathe has #1 MT,
but they also made one around 35 years ago that was a two tube
el-cheapo, and I think the drive center on that was part of the arbor.
I don't think it could be removed. My memory's a little hazy about
that, though.

They "made" many lathes, including some old cast iron flatbeds that would
embarrass the owners of midis today. The problem with this thread, as far
as help, is that we don't know which of the many lathes marketed by Sears
he's referencing.

Perhaps if you posted the model number, it might make things easier...

Rob


"Cheezy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi:

I hope somebody can help me; I was given a not very new Sears Craftsman
1hp 12 inch lathe and I am just getting around to playing with it. My
question is, how do you get the headstock pin out of its spindle? I
hope I'm saying the vocab right; I took a class recently on how to do
lathes, and I was on this jet whose headstock pin popped out by pushing
into a hole from behind, down the shaft. This Craftsman has a hole in
the back of the drive, but you have to take the motor cover off to get
there and the thing isn't budging. It's slightly rusted; maybe that's
it. Anybody know how this thing works?

Thanks in advance.

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"B Moody" wroteclip) Stick a wooden dowel, 8-10" long in the hole and
tap. The bit should pop out of the other end. I use a wooden dowel
because I would be afraid of damage otherwise.(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sometimes those can be VERY hard to dislodge, so don't be too surprised if
the wooden dowel doesn't do it. BE CAREFUL not to crush the dowel in
there so you can't get it all out. If the dowel just mushrooms, or
splits, or just bows, and doesn't do it, don't hesitate to use a metal
drift. It should be as large a diameter as will fit in, to minimize
bowing. Use a good heavy hammer, but start with sharp, light blows, and
keep increasing the blows. If you do damage the small end of the taper,
that's not the end of the world--you need it out of there. If you do
spread the end a little, you can dress it on a grinding wheel and still
use it.

Sometimes it helps to apply heat, but that's a whole 'nother story.

Usually I just unscrew the spindle nut with a wrench so it presses against
the back of the spur centre, and just hold the pulleys with my left hand to
keep it from turning. That way I can just ease the taper out of its housing
until it's loose, without pounding a dowel and risking shooting it onto the
floor and damaging it.

- Owen -

Hi Cheezy,
A nut with threads that match your lathe's spindle can be hacksawed in
half. then the halves can be assembled on the spindle shaft behind the
pin (spur center probably) , held together with a wrench and screwed off
taking the pin with it. BTW, the split nut is a good tool to keep for
future difficulty with stuck spurs. etc.

Welcome to the beginning of many problems and a whole lot of fun. Keep
us up to date with your doings.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Thanks everyone for your advice and concern.

Update: I went to a Sorby demo last night and one of the guys
mentioned applying coca cola to the frozen pin, which I did. I also
slid the motor housing off to expose the gears. After soaking a few
minutes I inserted a point drive (screwdriver lookin' thing with an
allen-star on the end) and whacked it with varying impacts. No good.
Still stuck. Some spider or insect got up in there and set up house so
the inside of the shaft was nice and dirty.

There are two allen nuts on the shaft, on on the housing to lock down
the gear play, and the other on the gear itself to loosen it from the
shaft (i'm thinking). Anyway loosening the first allowed the whole
shooting match to slide up/back about 3/4" but the one on the gear
didn't do anything. Frozen too? Anyway.

Model/Serial number info: 113.228360/96010p0050

Best guess on that stuff; it's almost gone. There is a picture of a
similar one on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sears-Craftsman-...cm dZViewItem

I sent the seller a question on this, but since bidding is closed I
don't know if he'll respond or not.

If anybody has add'l ideas I'm open. Meanwhile I'll keep you all
posted on any progress.

Thanks again.

"Cheezy" wrote: (clip) I inserted a point drive (screwdriver lookin' thing
with an allen-star on the end) and whacked it with varying impacts. No
good.(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Get someone with more experience to help you. That "screwdriver lookin'
thing with an allen star on the end" is a Phillips screwdriver--not the
right tool for the job. In fact, I get shivers up my spine thinking about
it.

No it's not a phillips; but not much better. This screwdriver lookin'
thing I used to unscrew the recessed allen screws on the gear. I think
they call it a star driver or something. I chose it because it does
have a flat part on the end.

I got a reply from the guy who just sold one on ebay; he can't help.
Maybe this thing is really fixed in there by design??

Hi Cheezy, Thanks for the ebay pic. I think it changes some of our
advice,
certainly mine. Likely a person paying over $100 for this lathe collects
machines and doesn't (or shouldn't) turn 12" blanks at anywhere near the
speed needed for it to develop 1 hp...or at any speed!

For your safety and successful turning, consider just tightening all the
bolts & nuts and clean up the lathe as needed, then list it on ebay if
being a gift isn't a problem for your selling it.

Otherwise, leave the spur center (pin) alone, forget faceplates, chucks
and other fittings that are for holding heavy or large workpieces. For
now limit your turning to small between centers work, about 3"x3" or
less in cross section. It's profitable and fun.

Whatever you decide to do join in here, ask questions, offer advice and
post your opinions. That goes for all timid lurkers. I'm glad I did.
Nobody on rcw comes close to knowing it all or claims to.

Just one turner's well meant suggestions derived from many years of
making more than a few bad ones. Others may want to correct this one.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

In article . com,
"Cheezy" wrote:

No it's not a phillips; but not much better. This screwdriver lookin'
thing I used to unscrew the recessed allen screws on the gear. I think
they call it a star driver or something. I chose it because it does
have a flat part on the end.

Sounds like a Torx driver.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Pour your end-grain sealer into a clean, wide-mouth
clothes detergent bottle. The lid makes a handy dipping container for
your brush and the leftovers will drain back into the bottle when you
recap the jug.

In article ,
(Arch) wrote:

Turn to Safety, Arch

Good to see you up and connected, Arch, after that little rain shower
passed over FL.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Pour your end-grain sealer into a clean, wide-mouth
clothes detergent bottle. The lid makes a handy dipping container for
your brush and the leftovers will drain back into the bottle when you
recap the jug.

Many thanks Owen, I'm in Tallahassee where it's beautiful in the fall.
Had some damage in S. Fla. Just waiting for the lights & water to come
back on and gas is available for going home.

Last year Norfolk Is. pine was down everywhere. Probably citrus, mango
and Fla maple will be wasted this time. Oh well, there are tornados in
Kansas, noreasters in N.E. , winds in Idaho, fires in the S.W., quakes &
mudslides in Ca. and they close up Ont. & Qbc. after Labor Day. I guess
we all oughta move to the Great Pacific N.W.....but the rains & LDD
there make the valleys white with suds.

Thanks for the tips. I hope you keep em coming and make them your
signature. series.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch,
Wonder if it'd be worth a trip to Florida to pickup some NI pine?

TomNie

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Many thanks Owen, I'm in Tallahassee where it's beautiful in the fall.
Had some damage in S. Fla. Just waiting for the lights & water to come
back on and gas is available for going home.

Last year Norfolk Is. pine was down everywhere. Probably citrus, mango
and Fla maple will be wasted this time. Oh well, there are tornados in
Kansas, noreasters in N.E. , winds in Idaho, fires in the S.W., quakes &
mudslides in Ca. and they close up Ont. & Qbc. after Labor Day. I guess
we all oughta move to the Great Pacific N.W.....but the rains & LDD
there make the valleys white with suds.

Thanks for the tips. I hope you keep em coming and make them your
signature. series.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

In article ,
(Arch) wrote:

Oh well, there are tornados in
Kansas, noreasters in N.E. , winds in Idaho, fires in the S.W., quakes &
mudslides in Ca. and they close up Ont. & Qbc. after Labor Day. I guess
we all oughta move to the Great Pacific N.W.....but the rains & LDD
there make the valleys white with suds.

Ya know, no matter where you live, Mother Nature can be a humbling
adversary. Here in the GNW, one has to contend with not only rain, but
mudslides and trees tipping over as common winter events. We also have
some risk from volcanos, earthquakes and tsunamis.

Glad to hear you missed out on the action - I thought you lived closer
to the mid part of the state, on the eastern side - at least that's
where I (we) were looking when you disappeared to Maine a couple months
back.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Pour your end-grain sealer into a clean, wide-mouth
clothes detergent bottle. The lid makes a handy dipping container for
your brush and the leftovers will drain back into the bottle when you
recap the jug.

Hi Tom, If you can get the gas & a place to stay, you probably could
get all the NIP you want and get paid for cutting it. Citrus too.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch,
That was dumb! At $3.49/gal for diesel and 11mpg with the gooseneck it'd
hardly be worth it considering how long Florida is.

The alligator thought of getting some NI pine overran my hummingbird wallet.

TomNie

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Hi Tom, If you can get the gas & a place to stay, you probably could
get all the NIP you want and get paid for cutting it. Citrus too.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings