On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 01:09:42 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
"B Moody" wrote
clip) Stick a wooden dowel, 8-10" long in the hole and
tap. The bit should pop out of the other end. I use a wooden dowel
because I would be afraid of damage otherwise.(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sometimes those can be VERY hard to dislodge, so don't be too surprised if
the wooden dowel doesn't do it. BE CAREFUL not to crush the dowel in there
so you can't get it all out. If the dowel just mushrooms, or splits, or
just bows, and doesn't do it, don't hesitate to use a metal drift. It
should be as large a diameter as will fit in, to minimize bowing. Use a
good heavy hammer, but start with sharp, light blows, and keep increasing
the blows. If you do damage the small end of the taper, that's not the end
of the world--you need it out of there. If you do spread the end a little,
you can dress it on a grinding wheel and still use it.
Usually (but not always), drive spurs and other Morse taper implements
have a half inch or so of relief (markedly smaller diameter) at the
skinny end to try to keep that from happening.
Even if you somehow smoked the drive center, another one's only a
double sawbuck or so, right?
One other thing to be careful of: Sears' single tube lathe has #1 MT,
but they also made one around 35 years ago that was a two tube
el-cheapo, and I think the drive center on that was part of the arbor.
I don't think it could be removed. My memory's a little hazy about
that, though.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997