I am picking up a craftsman model 101.07403 12" lathe tomorrow and I am a
bit confused on the actual bed length, and the 'between centers' dimension.

I searched the web and newsgroups for this model lathe and found it to be
called a 12"x24" and a 12"x36" lathe. Does it come in two sizes?

The person I am purchasing it from actually measured the distance between
the front of the 3 jaw chuck (mounted on the headstock) and the front tip of
the tailstock without anything installed into it. It measured at around
30". So you can see why I am confused. Is this lathe considered to have
24" or 36" between centers. He also stated it has a 40" bed, but I think
he is measuring with a tape measure and not quite sure where to measure from
since I believe these only came in 42" and 54" beds. The lathe is mounted
on a 60" long table, with about 4 to 6 inches of exposed table (length).
So this leads me to believe the overall length of the lathe is around 54".
I am really confused now.

The only problem with the lathe (which he doesn't consider a problem) is
that the threads on the feedscrew right near the headstock are starting to
show a little wear. He said it should not affect anything, but wanted to
disclose every thing he noticed. Also, there is a bit of backlash on the
carriage. He said by slightly tightening the gibs he can eliminate that
problem. I priced a new leadscrew from sears, just in case it was really
bad, and they want $543.33. Is there any other source or way to replace
this item if needed.

One last question, I want to put a quick change gearbox on it. Will this
adapt to this lathe since it did not originally come with it?

Thanks for the help. If it looks clean and everything works as stated, I
will be happy. He is letting it go for $600.00. I think it is a fair
price.

Look here. Read through the old posts for all you ever wnted to know about
these lathes.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/



--
Larry Bailey
Illegitimi non carborundum


"Terry G" wrote in message
newsuv5c.37951$506.16113@fed1read05...
I am picking up a craftsman model 101.07403 12" lathe tomorrow and I am a
bit confused on the actual bed length, and the 'between centers'
dimension.

I searched the web and newsgroups for this model lathe and found it to be
called a 12"x24" and a 12"x36" lathe. Does it come in two sizes?

The person I am purchasing it from actually measured the distance between
the front of the 3 jaw chuck (mounted on the headstock) and the front tip
of
the tailstock without anything installed into it. It measured at around
30". So you can see why I am confused. Is this lathe considered to have
24" or 36" between centers. He also stated it has a 40" bed, but I think
he is measuring with a tape measure and not quite sure where to measure
from
since I believe these only came in 42" and 54" beds. The lathe is mounted
on a 60" long table, with about 4 to 6 inches of exposed table (length).
So this leads me to believe the overall length of the lathe is around 54".
I am really confused now.

The only problem with the lathe (which he doesn't consider a problem) is
that the threads on the feedscrew right near the headstock are starting to
show a little wear. He said it should not affect anything, but wanted to
disclose every thing he noticed. Also, there is a bit of backlash on the
carriage. He said by slightly tightening the gibs he can eliminate that
problem. I priced a new leadscrew from sears, just in case it was
really
bad, and they want $543.33. Is there any other source or way to replace
this item if needed.

One last question, I want to put a quick change gearbox on it. Will this
adapt to this lathe since it did not originally come with it?

Thanks for the help. If it looks clean and everything works as stated, I
will be happy. He is letting it go for $600.00. I think it is a fair
price.

Terry G wrote:

I am picking up a craftsman model 101.07403 12" lathe tomorrow and I am a
bit confused on the actual bed length, and the 'between centers' dimension.

I searched the web and newsgroups for this model lathe and found it to be
called a 12"x24" and a 12"x36" lathe. Does it come in two sizes?


Yes, 42 and 54" beds.

The person I am purchasing it from actually measured the distance between
the front of the 3 jaw chuck (mounted on the headstock) and the front tip of
the tailstock without anything installed into it. It measured at around
30". So you can see why I am confused. Is this lathe considered to have
24" or 36" between centers. He also stated it has a 40" bed, but I think
he is measuring with a tape measure and not quite sure where to measure from
since I believe these only came in 42" and 54" beds. The lathe is mounted
on a 60" long table, with about 4 to 6 inches of exposed table (length).
So this leads me to believe the overall length of the lathe is around 54".
I am really confused now.

The only problem with the lathe (which he doesn't consider a problem) is
that the threads on the feedscrew right near the headstock are starting to
show a little wear. He said it should not affect anything, but wanted to
disclose every thing he noticed. Also, there is a bit of backlash on the
carriage. He said by slightly tightening the gibs he can eliminate that
problem. I priced a new leadscrew from sears, just in case it was really
bad, and they want $543.33. Is there any other source or way to replace
this item if needed.


It is possible to make new leadscrews from Acme thread stock, but the
one there
sounds quite servicable. Unless you were making new leadscrews, and
need high
precision over long lengths of thread, it should be no problem.

One last question, I want to put a quick change gearbox on it. Will this
adapt to this lathe since it did not originally come with it?


Umm, maybe. On the later models, it is a drop-in replacement, but this
is the
oldest (1938) Atlas model. It may have a 5/8" screw, which is a problem.
All the later models have a 3/4" leadscrew. I still think you can do
it, but it
may require an adapter be made where the leadscrew inserts into the QC.



This lathe is basically a 10" Atlas built with higher headstock and
tailstock,
and is more compatible with 10" Atlas parts.

Jon

I picked up the lathe yesterday. It looked to be in good condition. It is
a Craftsman 101-17403 with 12" swing and 30" between centers.

It also has a 3/4" leadscrew. So would this be considered a later model?
So I am assuming a standard quick change gear box would fit. I will have to
do some testing with the leadscrew and see if it is going to be a problem.
The threads are all there, but the first 12 inches or so of threads are not
as square looking as the rest of the leadscrew. Everything else on the
lathe looks perfect. I'm taking it all apart tonight to de-grease and
remove all the metal shavings. It looks as if he used an air gun on it just
before I got there, so now there are fresh metal shavings everywhere!

I also want to change the belt that goes to the main spindle pulley. He has
an orange type of elastic snap together belt on it. I guess he didn't want
to take it apart to put on a new belt. It just feels sloppy.

One last thing, the 5" 3 jaw self centering chuck looks to be original. It
centers up pretty nicely, but it is about .003" off. I figured out which
jaw is causing the problem, and if I put in a .0025 to .0035 shim, it seems
to zero it up to within .0005". Is there a rule of thumb for how accurate
you need to be. Or in other words, what type of tolerances should I expect
to get from the rest of the machine? I am pretty picky, and I'll keep
playing with it until it is perfect, but I am not sure what perfect is. I'm
thinking of purchasing a new chuck, they are a bit pricey, but will I get
more accurate than .0005" right out of the box?

Thanks

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...


Terry G wrote:

I am picking up a craftsman model 101.07403 12" lathe tomorrow and I am a
bit confused on the actual bed length, and the 'between centers'
dimension.

I searched the web and newsgroups for this model lathe and found it to be
called a 12"x24" and a 12"x36" lathe. Does it come in two sizes?


Yes, 42 and 54" beds.

The person I am purchasing it from actually measured the distance between
the front of the 3 jaw chuck (mounted on the headstock) and the front tip
of
the tailstock without anything installed into it. It measured at around
30". So you can see why I am confused. Is this lathe considered to have
24" or 36" between centers. He also stated it has a 40" bed, but I
think
he is measuring with a tape measure and not quite sure where to measure
from
since I believe these only came in 42" and 54" beds. The lathe is
mounted
on a 60" long table, with about 4 to 6 inches of exposed table (length).
So this leads me to believe the overall length of the lathe is around
54".
I am really confused now.

The only problem with the lathe (which he doesn't consider a problem) is
that the threads on the feedscrew right near the headstock are starting
to
show a little wear. He said it should not affect anything, but wanted to
disclose every thing he noticed. Also, there is a bit of backlash on the
carriage. He said by slightly tightening the gibs he can eliminate that
problem. I priced a new leadscrew from sears, just in case it was
really
bad, and they want $543.33. Is there any other source or way to replace
this item if needed.


It is possible to make new leadscrews from Acme thread stock, but the
one there
sounds quite servicable. Unless you were making new leadscrews, and
need high
precision over long lengths of thread, it should be no problem.

One last question, I want to put a quick change gearbox on it. Will this
adapt to this lathe since it did not originally come with it?


Umm, maybe. On the later models, it is a drop-in replacement, but this
is the
oldest (1938) Atlas model. It may have a 5/8" screw, which is a problem.
All the later models have a 3/4" leadscrew. I still think you can do
it, but it
may require an adapter be made where the leadscrew inserts into the QC.



This lathe is basically a 10" Atlas built with higher headstock and
tailstock,
and is more compatible with 10" Atlas parts.

Jon

Terry G wrote:
I picked up the lathe yesterday. It looked to be in good condition. It is
a Craftsman 101-17403 with 12" swing and 30" between centers.

It also has a 3/4" leadscrew. So would this be considered a later model?
So I am assuming a standard quick change gear box would fit. I will have to
do some testing with the leadscrew and see if it is going to be a problem.
The threads are all there, but the first 12 inches or so of threads are not
as square looking as the rest of the leadscrew. Everything else on the
lathe looks perfect. I'm taking it all apart tonight to de-grease and
remove all the metal shavings. It looks as if he used an air gun on it just
before I got there, so now there are fresh metal shavings everywhere!

I also want to change the belt that goes to the main spindle pulley. He has
an orange type of elastic snap together belt on it. I guess he didn't want
to take it apart to put on a new belt. It just feels sloppy.

One last thing, the 5" 3 jaw self centering chuck looks to be original. It
centers up pretty nicely, but it is about .003" off. I figured out which
jaw is causing the problem, and if I put in a .0025 to .0035 shim, it seems
to zero it up to within .0005". Is there a rule of thumb for how accurate
you need to be. Or in other words, what type of tolerances should I expect
to get from the rest of the machine? I am pretty picky, and I'll keep
playing with it until it is perfect, but I am not sure what perfect is. I'm
thinking of purchasing a new chuck, they are a bit pricey, but will I get
more accurate than .0005" right out of the box?

Thanks



Hi
If your chuck is at half a thou , stop . I doubt anything you can buy
for this lathe will do any better . To deal in smaller numbers you would
need a lathe that is a lot more ridgid then the Atlas . You think new
chucks are expensive , well wait until you price out a QC gearbox and
leadscrew . Really run the lathe a while first and see how often you
change gears . I seldom need to do more them shift the belt on mine .
The threading I do under 1/2 I use a tap and die set for and over 1/2 I
seldom need . When I do I change the gears which does not take much time
.. Yes I wish I had the QG but wanting and needing seem to be two
entirely different animals in my case . I have not had to deal with the
belts on mine but from what people post here the link belts are well
thought of , quieter and every bit as sturdy . So again I would say run
the lathe and see how you like it . Luck
Ken Cutt

Thanks for the reply. I will do just that, run it as it sits, and then see
how I like it. I agree about the QC box. I don't see myself doing much
over 1/2" either. I do have a project I'm working on that needs 3/4"
threads on the outside of a thick wall tube, so that will probably be my
first attempt at threading.

I am in the process of completely stripping down the lathe, and cleaning it.
I finished the tailstock, and I am almost done with the complete carriage
assembly. It looks like there really was 60 years of grease and grime
inside that thing. I took every bit of it apart, and scrubbed, cleaned, and
chiseled away. Everything inside now looks brand new, and I got to see how
everything works, and what exactly needs replacing to get rid of some of the
backlash in the cross slide assemblies.

I cam across one questions on the headstock gears. There is a spindle with
two gears on it, a large one and a smaller one which is not currently
engaged (located between the rear pulley and the chuck spindle). To engage
them, you turn a small handle right next to the chuck. The previous owner
engaged them for me, and showed me how slow the chuck would spin. It worked
as some sort of gear reduction. But for the life of me, I can not get it to
work now. When I pull the lever forward (towards me) I see the two gears
engage onto the chuck spindle gears. They both engage at the same time.
But as soon as this happens, everything locks up. I can not spin the chuck
or anything. And I can not see how engaging this thing would give me a
lower RPM.

I spend about an hour looking at it and studying the exploded diagram I
have, but no luck.

Can somebody school me on this.

Thanks.

"Ken Cutt" wrote in message
...
Terry G wrote:
I picked up the lathe yesterday. It looked to be in good condition. It
is
a Craftsman 101-17403 with 12" swing and 30" between centers.

It also has a 3/4" leadscrew. So would this be considered a later
model?
So I am assuming a standard quick change gear box would fit. I will
have to
do some testing with the leadscrew and see if it is going to be a
problem.
The threads are all there, but the first 12 inches or so of threads are
not
as square looking as the rest of the leadscrew. Everything else on the
lathe looks perfect. I'm taking it all apart tonight to de-grease and
remove all the metal shavings. It looks as if he used an air gun on it
just
before I got there, so now there are fresh metal shavings everywhere!

I also want to change the belt that goes to the main spindle pulley. He
has
an orange type of elastic snap together belt on it. I guess he didn't
want
to take it apart to put on a new belt. It just feels sloppy.

One last thing, the 5" 3 jaw self centering chuck looks to be original.
It
centers up pretty nicely, but it is about .003" off. I figured out
which
jaw is causing the problem, and if I put in a .0025 to .0035 shim, it
seems
to zero it up to within .0005". Is there a rule of thumb for how
accurate
you need to be. Or in other words, what type of tolerances should I
expect
to get from the rest of the machine? I am pretty picky, and I'll keep
playing with it until it is perfect, but I am not sure what perfect is.
I'm
thinking of purchasing a new chuck, they are a bit pricey, but will I
get
more accurate than .0005" right out of the box?

Thanks



Hi
If your chuck is at half a thou , stop . I doubt anything you can buy
for this lathe will do any better . To deal in smaller numbers you would
need a lathe that is a lot more ridgid then the Atlas . You think new
chucks are expensive , well wait until you price out a QC gearbox and
leadscrew . Really run the lathe a while first and see how often you
change gears . I seldom need to do more them shift the belt on mine .
The threading I do under 1/2 I use a tap and die set for and over 1/2 I
seldom need . When I do I change the gears which does not take much time
. Yes I wish I had the QG but wanting and needing seem to be two
entirely different animals in my case . I have not had to deal with the
belts on mine but from what people post here the link belts are well
thought of , quieter and every bit as sturdy . So again I would say run
the lathe and see how you like it . Luck
Ken Cutt

"Terry G" wrote in message news:HPt6c.42619$506.37621@fed1read05...
I picked up the lathe yesterday. It looked to be in good condition. It is
a Craftsman 101-17403 with 12" swing and 30" between centers.

Ok. Craftsman is rather pedestrian, but quite usable.


The threads are all there, but the first 12 inches or so of threads are not
as square looking as the rest of the leadscrew.

Wouldn't worry about it, that's the area that it gets the most use.
Unless they're really worn, it won't make a lot of difference. I'd
say try it, and if it works ok, leave it alone.

I also want to change the belt that goes to the main spindle pulley. He has
an orange type of elastic snap together belt on it. I guess he didn't want
to take it apart to put on a new belt. It just feels sloppy.

I wouldn't be in any great hurry to change it, I was surprised to find
that those linked belts pull pretty good. Runs pretty smooth too.

One last thing, the 5" 3 jaw self centering chuck looks to be original. It
centers up pretty nicely, but it is about .003" off. I figured out which
jaw is causing the problem, and if I put in a .0025 to .0035 shim, it seems
to zero it up to within .0005". Is there a rule of thumb for how accurate
you need to be. Or in other words, what type of tolerances should I expect
to get from the rest of the machine? I am pretty picky, and I'll keep
playing with it until it is perfect, but I am not sure what perfect is. I'm
thinking of purchasing a new chuck, they are a bit pricey, but will I get
more accurate than .0005" right out of the box?

MOst work, .003 isn't going to bother you, there are times when you'll
want more accurate, but not as often as you'd think. Replacing it may
be more than just unscrew the old one and put the new one on, most of
them are furnished without the backplate, and to be accurate, it has
to be fitted on the spindle that it will live on. The new chuck will
be accurate out of the box, but your mounting will either make or
break it. 5" seems a little small for this size lathe, but may have
been the preference of the original owner. Buying a good chuck can
make a lot of difference in the machine. If it's not mounted
properly, it can be the source of endless frustration.

You are engaging the back gear drive when you pull this lever. You must then
retract the bull gear drive pin to allow this gear to rotate on the spindle.
Otherwise you are locking the drive as you have experienced. Good luck. Ron
Colonna

I'm not familiar with your lathe but you have to unlock the larger gear from
the spindle or drive pulley so it can rotate independently. Here are some
images of one Atlas model:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page7.html

Look at the 3rd image down. You can see a pin in the larger spindle gear.
It has to be removed before engaging the back gear. There is probably
another pin 180 degrees from that one that has to be removed as well.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"Terry G" wrote in message
news:r%z6c.42663$506.35710@fed1read05...
Thanks for the reply. I will do just that, run it as it sits, and then
see
how I like it. I agree about the QC box. I don't see myself doing much
over 1/2" either. I do have a project I'm working on that needs 3/4"
threads on the outside of a thick wall tube, so that will probably be my
first attempt at threading.

I am in the process of completely stripping down the lathe, and cleaning
it.
I finished the tailstock, and I am almost done with the complete carriage
assembly. It looks like there really was 60 years of grease and grime
inside that thing. I took every bit of it apart, and scrubbed, cleaned,
and
chiseled away. Everything inside now looks brand new, and I got to see
how
everything works, and what exactly needs replacing to get rid of some of
the
backlash in the cross slide assemblies.

I cam across one questions on the headstock gears. There is a spindle
with
two gears on it, a large one and a smaller one which is not currently
engaged (located between the rear pulley and the chuck spindle). To
engage
them, you turn a small handle right next to the chuck. The previous owner
engaged them for me, and showed me how slow the chuck would spin. It
worked
as some sort of gear reduction. But for the life of me, I can not get it
to
work now. When I pull the lever forward (towards me) I see the two gears
engage onto the chuck spindle gears. They both engage at the same time.
But as soon as this happens, everything locks up. I can not spin the
chuck
or anything. And I can not see how engaging this thing would give me a
lower RPM.

I spend about an hour looking at it and studying the exploded diagram I
have, but no luck.

Can somebody school me on this.

Thanks.

"Ken Cutt" wrote in message
...
Terry G wrote:
I picked up the lathe yesterday. It looked to be in good condition.
It
is
a Craftsman 101-17403 with 12" swing and 30" between centers.

It also has a 3/4" leadscrew. So would this be considered a later
model?
So I am assuming a standard quick change gear box would fit. I will
have to
do some testing with the leadscrew and see if it is going to be a
problem.
The threads are all there, but the first 12 inches or so of threads
are
not
as square looking as the rest of the leadscrew. Everything else on
the
lathe looks perfect. I'm taking it all apart tonight to de-grease and
remove all the metal shavings. It looks as if he used an air gun on
it
just
before I got there, so now there are fresh metal shavings everywhere!

I also want to change the belt that goes to the main spindle pulley.
He
has
an orange type of elastic snap together belt on it. I guess he didn't
want
to take it apart to put on a new belt. It just feels sloppy.

One last thing, the 5" 3 jaw self centering chuck looks to be
original.
It
centers up pretty nicely, but it is about .003" off. I figured out
which
jaw is causing the problem, and if I put in a .0025 to .0035 shim, it
seems
to zero it up to within .0005". Is there a rule of thumb for how
accurate
you need to be. Or in other words, what type of tolerances should I
expect
to get from the rest of the machine? I am pretty picky, and I'll
keep
playing with it until it is perfect, but I am not sure what perfect
is.
I'm
thinking of purchasing a new chuck, they are a bit pricey, but will I
get
more accurate than .0005" right out of the box?

Thanks



Hi
If your chuck is at half a thou , stop . I doubt anything you can buy
for this lathe will do any better . To deal in smaller numbers you would
need a lathe that is a lot more ridgid then the Atlas . You think new
chucks are expensive , well wait until you price out a QC gearbox and
leadscrew . Really run the lathe a while first and see how often you
change gears . I seldom need to do more them shift the belt on mine .
The threading I do under 1/2 I use a tap and die set for and over 1/2 I
seldom need . When I do I change the gears which does not take much time
. Yes I wish I had the QG but wanting and needing seem to be two
entirely different animals in my case . I have not had to deal with the
belts on mine but from what people post here the link belts are well
thought of , quieter and every bit as sturdy . So again I would say run
the lathe and see how you like it . Luck
Ken Cutt

It also has a 3/4" leadscrew. So would this be considered a later model?

I think a better indicator is the thickness of the ways. Older machines
have ways that are 3/8 thick. Newer machines have ways that are 1/2
inch thick. Not sure when the change was made, but I suspect in the 60s
or 70s.

I have a brand new lead screw for a Craftsman 12x36 manual change lathe.
I paid 250 direct from clausing. I will sell for any reasonable offer.

chuck

(RonC9876) wrote in
:

You are engaging the back gear drive when you pull this lever. You
must then retract the bull gear drive pin to allow this gear to rotate
on the spindle. Otherwise you are locking the drive as you have
experienced. Good luck. Ron Colonna

Open the top cover.

The drive pin is located on the large gear on the main
spindle, which is the "bull gear". Turn the spindle over
by hand and you should see a round flat disk about 3/4 - 1"
or so in diameter (I've not run an Atlas, so I don't know
exactly, on some it's a knurled knob). When pulled out, it
enables the belt pulley to run at a different speed from
the big gear, which drives the main spindle. Now when you
engage the back gears, the small gear attached to the other
end of the belt pulley drives the bull gear through a double
reduction. This is also why not pulling the pin locks it
up, you're trying to drive everything at two speeds at once.

As for what use it is, turning large diameters comes to mind,
as well as threading. The slower the main spindle turns, the
more time you have to crank the cross slide out at the end of
your thread when threading against a shoulder.

To go back to regular speeds, disengage the back gear lever
and hold the pin in, while rotating the belt pulley slowly by
hand until it arrives at the hole, which should now allow the
pin to sink in until you only see the head. Some lathes use
a clutch or cam mechanism instead, on those the pin will
engage anywhere (again, I don't know which the Atlas uses).

While the concise description above is accurate, it sounded
like you needed a tad bit more info than that. :^)

Hope that helps,
--Glenn Lyford

Does anyone know if an Atlas 10" leadscrew that came off a 48" bed would
work on a Craftsman 12" with a 42" bed. The distance between centers is 30"
on both models, and they both have a 3/4" diameter.

Could it possibly be machined to fit?

Thanks.

"Charles A. Sherwood" wrote in message
...
It also has a 3/4" leadscrew. So would this be considered a later model?

I think a better indicator is the thickness of the ways. Older machines
have ways that are 3/8 thick. Newer machines have ways that are 1/2
inch thick. Not sure when the change was made, but I suspect in the 60s
or 70s.

I have a brand new lead screw for a Craftsman 12x36 manual change lathe.
I paid 250 direct from clausing. I will sell for any reasonable offer.

chuck

Terry G wrote:
Thanks for the reply. I will do just that, run it as it sits, and then see
how I like it. I agree about the QC box. I don't see myself doing much
over 1/2" either. I do have a project I'm working on that needs 3/4"
threads on the outside of a thick wall tube, so that will probably be my
first attempt at threading.

I am in the process of completely stripping down the lathe, and cleaning it.
I finished the tailstock, and I am almost done with the complete carriage
assembly. It looks like there really was 60 years of grease and grime
inside that thing. I took every bit of it apart, and scrubbed, cleaned, and
chiseled away. Everything inside now looks brand new, and I got to see how
everything works, and what exactly needs replacing to get rid of some of the
backlash in the cross slide assemblies.

I cam across one questions on the headstock gears. There is a spindle with
two gears on it, a large one and a smaller one which is not currently
engaged (located between the rear pulley and the chuck spindle). To engage
them, you turn a small handle right next to the chuck. The previous owner
engaged them for me, and showed me how slow the chuck would spin. It worked
as some sort of gear reduction. But for the life of me, I can not get it to
work now. When I pull the lever forward (towards me) I see the two gears
engage onto the chuck spindle gears. They both engage at the same time.
But as soon as this happens, everything locks up. I can not spin the chuck
or anything. And I can not see how engaging this thing would give me a
lower RPM.

I spend about an hour looking at it and studying the exploded diagram I
have, but no luck.

Can somebody school me on this.



To get the back gears to work you have to disengage the main pulley .
There is a brass pin on the front side of the pulley . Just pull it out
with your fingers , then the back gears will work fine . When you want
the faster speeds again the pin will go back in at two different places
180 degrees apart . Does not matter which . Just turn the spindle by
hand while pressing lightly on the pin and you can feel when its in the
right place . Also it will go in a lot further , push it as far in as it
will go . I have a parts diagram from Clausing that I can check part
numbers on and see if the leadscrew is the same for the 10 and the 12 .
I would guess it is . The problem is I don't have that list at the
moment as I lent it out but will check when I get it back . If you need
to know sooner call up Clausing they are very helpfull . Oh yea one more
little note . There is an allen screw on the main pulley , remove it
every so often and put some oil in there . It is not a set screw . When
the pulley is free it does need some lubricant in there .

http://www.clausing-industrial.com/index.htm

Luck
Ken Cutt