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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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Why won't my punches even raise a welt?
After reading M. O'Donnell's book on decorating, I tried using carver's
punches to make shallow depressions in turned wood surfaces, then I sanded down to their level and by moistening the surface the patterns were supposed to rise proud of the surface. It was a miserable failure. Maybe the punches cut instead of compressing the wood surface and maybe I used the wrong wood; dry mahogany and wet NIP. Or as I do with Leif's world famous LDD manifesto, I didn't follow instructions, and was irate when I didn't succeed. Just because it works for him is certainly no reason to follow his advice. Have any of you used this method successfully to raise decorative patterns? (Neckties and long shirt cuffs may enhance your appearance while turning, but the bandages, stitches and scars _if you should survive_ won't.) Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#2
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"Arch" wrote in message ... After reading M. O'Donnell's book on decorating, I tried using carver's punches to make shallow depressions in turned wood surfaces, then I sanded down to their level and by moistening the surface the patterns were supposed to rise proud of the surface. It was a miserable failure. Maybe the punches cut instead of compressing the wood surface and maybe I used the wrong wood; dry mahogany and wet NIP. Or as I do with Leif's world famous LDD manifesto, I didn't follow instructions, and was irate when I didn't succeed. Just because it works for him is certainly no reason to follow his advice. Have any of you used this method successfully to raise decorative patterns? I've used tapped wires to make waterproof boxes out of softwoods. I'm betting on fiber cutting. Try some annealed steel wire taped to the surface and tapped in. Use a last under the piece for support. Now answer mine. How can potatoes planted in the same furrow erupt to the surface seven or eight inches either side, where they're cut off by my cultivator? Grrrrrr. |
#3
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George, An old farmer on rcw advised gently peeling off potatoe vines.
He insised that a cultivator used properly should peel, not thrust. I'll try the wire. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#4
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#5
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"Lobby Dosser" wrote: (Don't set your skilsaw on a plastic lawn chair until you are sure the blade has stopped spinning.) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Also, don't use your finger to make sure it has stopped. |
#6
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Thanks Lobby, you were right to question the depth of the dent. I
should have said "sanded to below the original surface". (smell the roses not the laquer thinner, you'll live longer.) Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#7
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"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:kCoqe.168$yw4.164@trnddc09... (Arch) wrote: After reading M. O'Donnell's book on decorating, I tried using carver's punches to make shallow depressions in turned wood surfaces, then I sanded down to their level and by moistening the surface the patterns were supposed to rise proud of the surface. It was a miserable failure. Do you mean sand the surrounding area down to the level of the dent? (Don't set your skilsaw on a plastic lawn chair until you are sure the blade has stopped spinning.) ========================= Lobby, Have you disabled the blade guard on your Skilsaw?! (:-0 Ken Moon Webberville, TX. |
#9
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"Ken Moon" wrote:
"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message news:kCoqe.168$yw4.164@trnddc09... (Arch) wrote: After reading M. O'Donnell's book on decorating, I tried using carver's punches to make shallow depressions in turned wood surfaces, then I sanded down to their level and by moistening the surface the patterns were supposed to rise proud of the surface. It was a miserable failure. Do you mean sand the surrounding area down to the level of the dent? (Don't set your skilsaw on a plastic lawn chair until you are sure the blade has stopped spinning.) ========================= Lobby, Have you disabled the blade guard on your Skilsaw?! (:-0 Nah, the guard caught the edge of the seat and then the saw began to eat it way across as it wound down. Never liked those chairs anyway. Have to find a creative way to get rid of the rest of them. (Never spray paint near an uncovered beverage container. Corollary: Always check the contents of an uncovered beverage container prior to drinking from it.) Ken Moon Webberville, TX. |
#10
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Arch wrote:
After reading M. O'Donnell's book on decorating, I tried using carver's punches to make shallow depressions in turned wood surfaces, then I sanded down to their level and by moistening the surface the patterns were supposed to rise proud of the surface. It was a miserable failure. Maybe the punches cut instead of compressing the wood surface and maybe I used the wrong wood; dry mahogany and wet NIP. My bet is the wood. Try something like maple, yellow birch or a fruit wood. Something with tight grain. I have certainly used the wetting technique for getting dents out of wood Sometimes some heat helps on the wet wood. -- Derek Andrews, woodturner http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com http://chipshop.blogspot.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/ |
#11
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 15:20:34 -0400, (Arch) wrote:
After reading M. O'Donnell's book on decorating, I tried using carver's punches to make shallow depressions in turned wood surfaces, then I sanded down to their level and by moistening the surface the patterns were supposed to rise proud of the surface. It was a miserable failure. I have read of similar feats, but using steam instead of plain water. Put the piece in a collander over boiling water. I'm going to try it on some hard maple. -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#12
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Arch, I have used a similar approach but I cut away the wood rather
than sanding. Then, as Chuck wrote, I used steam to raise the bumps. Reasonably successful, but not all the indentations rose to the occasion! I used UK Sycamore (Maple?) but was somewhat disappointed with the results and have not repeated the experiment. P.S. I did round off the tip of the punch before use and it was one of those where you can preset the pressure exerted. Regards, Peter Charles Fagg Freshwater, Isle of Wight, United Kingdom. www.petersplatters.co.uk Each can do but little! But if each DID that little, ALL would be done! |
#13
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"Arch" wrote in message ... After reading M. O'Donnell's book on decorating, I tried using carver's punches to make shallow depressions in turned wood surfaces, then I sanded down to their level and by moistening the surface the patterns were supposed to rise proud of the surface. It was a miserable failure. Maybe the punches cut instead of compressing the wood surface and maybe I used the wrong wood; dry mahogany and wet NIP. Or as I do with Leif's world famous LDD manifesto, I didn't follow instructions, and was irate when I didn't succeed. Just because it works for him is certainly no reason to follow his advice. Have any of you used this method successfully to raise decorative patterns? (Neckties and long shirt cuffs may enhance your appearance while turning, but the bandages, stitches and scars _if you should survive_ won't.) Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter ==== Arch! Have you got a health club membership? Perhaps if you started some weight training, your punch might be more effective. Also, work out on the heavy bag seems to help.*G* Leif |
#14
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Thanks to all for gently implying that I ought to take another look at
O'Donnell's book. Your suggestions might have been mean spirited, but instead were proper and pertinent. I found my copy and I'm sure not guilty of copyright infringement or plagiary since my attempts at decorating were nowhere in his book. To continue my series of bad puns; 'Like Mike Tyson, I punched out'. Arrrgh! Ah, the well intended misinformation that would be perpetuated, if not for all the disagreements and corrections that all you gentlemen freely offer here. I'm going to try steaming a maple turning in a colander after making shallow depressions with a controlled pressure round point punch and sanding to just below the surface. May not work for me, but I heard that following instructions has been known to help. (somebody turn a white cane for dear old.... he wore a mask at his lathe, but not at his grinder) Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#15
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In article , Arch
wrote: Thanks to all for gently implying that I ought to take another look at O'Donnell's book. Your suggestions might have been mean spirited, but instead were proper and pertinent. I found my copy and I'm sure not guilty of copyright infringement or plagiary since my attempts at decorating were nowhere in his book. To continue my series of bad puns; 'Like Mike Tyson, I punched out'. Arrrgh! Ah, the well intended misinformation that would be perpetuated, if not for all the disagreements and corrections that all you gentlemen freely offer here. I'm going to try steaming a maple turning in a colander after making shallow depressions with a controlled pressure round point punch and sanding to just below the surface. May not work for me, but I heard that following instructions has been known to help. (somebody turn a white cane for dear old.... he wore a mask at his lathe, but not at his grinder) I've seen something similar done on "THe Woodwright's Shop", but not decorative purposes - the technique was applied to making a wooden wash basin. The bottom was simply nailed onto the bottom of a frame. Before this, a continuous strip was beaten all around the bottom edge. The edge was then planed down to be level with the bottom of the depression. When the wood was wetted, the grain swoll along that same line, compressing against the bottom panel and creating a tight seal. IIRC, the "bead" was beaten in using a strip of metal and a hammer, pretty agressively! |
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