As I explore the joys of turning, I'm learning a lot. Thanks, folks, for
all of the experience, and opinion, that you share so freely.

Power sanding:

I'm confused as to where to proceed. The catalogs have their usual
bewildering array, and while they certainly wish me no active ill will,
their express purpose in life is to melt down my Amex card. ;-)

Inertial sanders. Air powers dual action sanders. Electric angle sanders.
Wave discs. Foam backed pads. So many competing choices!

I've got a new Jet 1442, having retired the Shopsmith to 'other, less
stressful duties'. (OK, there are a bunch of boxes piled on top of it in
the shed right now.) I've been turning salad-style bowls in the 10"-14"
range, in dry cabinet-style woods, because I have access to some free - to
- cheap offcuts up to 12/4. I've started on some green wood turning, but
that goes slowly, primarily due to stock prep and storage right now. (I
know that once I get rolling, that may change.)

So what should I try next?

Patriarch

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
As I explore the joys of turning, I'm learning a lot. Thanks, folks, for
all of the experience, and opinion, that you share so freely.

Power sanding:

I'm confused as to where to proceed. The catalogs have their usual
bewildering array, and while they certainly wish me no active ill will,
their express purpose in life is to melt down my Amex card. ;-)

Inertial sanders. Air powers dual action sanders. Electric angle
sanders.
Wave discs. Foam backed pads. So many competing choices!

I've got a new Jet 1442, having retired the Shopsmith to 'other, less
stressful duties'. (OK, there are a bunch of boxes piled on top of it in
the shed right now.) I've been turning salad-style bowls in the 10"-14"
range, in dry cabinet-style woods, because I have access to some free - to
- cheap offcuts up to 12/4. I've started on some green wood turning, but
that goes slowly, primarily due to stock prep and storage right now. (I
know that once I get rolling, that may change.)

So what should I try next?

Patriarch

There's an excellent article on sanding bowls in the latest edition of the
AAW magazine. Hope you have joined! Lots of good tips for everyone and
dazzling displays of what our fellow turners are producing. When I get my
copy, I skip over those as otherwise I just retreat to a closet and cry! *G*

Leif

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
Power sanding:

I'm confused as to where to proceed. The catalogs have their usual
bewildering array, and while they certainly wish me no active ill will,
their express purpose in life is to melt down my Amex card. ;-)

Inertial sanders. Air powers dual action sanders. Electric angle
sanders.
Wave discs. Foam backed pads. So many competing choices!

Power sanding's the way to go. What I've settled on is an old washing
machine motor powering a flexible shaft. I sand with the lathe on, support
the handpiece of the shaft as if it were a rotary scraper, so it barely
touches the surface. I let the lathe bring the surface to the sander, not
vice-versa. Much better surface that way over sanding with the bowl still,
where you can dig in with the edges - what wave papers are supposed to
solve - or follow into soft spots with spalted woods.

I like the Power Lock system for most sanding, using 2" disks to maintain
better control over angles, and the flex edge types for tight spots.
Generally the first grit or two go with them, then to 2 or 3" soft-backed
velcro at 220/320. I keep more in contact with the piece now, using the
larger footprint to bridge small soft spots. 320 is about as low as I go
under power, because even a light touch can heat and harden with paper that
fine or finer. Lathe goes off, and sanding by wrist power, or the piece
comes off to be finished by hand.

Advantages to the method I use over drill motors are the better access
afforded by the shaft, full control with less fatigue by supporting the
handpiece, and better dust collection, because I can position the collecting
point where gravity aids me, since the sanding is done at nearly the same
place. Not to mention the longer abrasive life gained by never heating the
paper.

The only draw back to the power sanding that I can see is that the
vents on the sander blow the dust every where. I have beet thinking
about putting vents over the aft vents in the sander. They would point
to the head, which would help direct the air stream towards the
collector. I took half of a white plastic 55 gallon drum and made a
hood out of it. It bolts to a bracket where the safety shield would go.
The bottom of the barrel is cut out to fit around the shaft of the head
stock, with the tailstock end and front being open. I use a heavy clear
piece of window plastic to cover the open end. This has the bowl about
75% covered by the hood. With me standing in front of the hood, there
is a lot of air pulling almost all of the dust into the collector. One
Way has something similar that they make. I used to use about half
power and half hand sanding. As I progress in my skills, I am doing
almost all power. If I start with a courser grit, say 100 grit, I will
usually power sand to 150 then hand sand at 150 grit. The hand sanding
leaves a different scratch pattern that the power sanding, so it makes
it easier to see scratcher that haven't been sanded out. I then power
sand to 320 or so, and finish at 320 or finer by hand. I like the
linear scratch pattern of hand sanding rather than the circular pattern
of the power sander. Beyond 600 or so grit, you can't see the
scratches.

Power sanding saves time. If you want to save money on your sanding
discs, cut your own. I buy 12 inch wide rolls of h & l from Klingspoor.
I had three cutters made, using 1, 2, and 3 inch i.d. pipe sections
about 1 1/2 inches long. I had a friend ream out the inside so the
discs would be 1/8 inch over the diameter (3 1/8 inch). They need to be
hardened. There is about a 45 degree bevel on the outside, and a small
bevel on the inside of the cutting edge. For a punch board a piece of
1/2 inch plastic works. Punching can be done 3 ways; A small sledge
hammer, and a wood block over the cutter. A larger arbor press. Or if
you are lucky like me, a small table top punch press which can punch
out 5 layers at a time. These are sometimes available to rent at some
leather mfg. places. When punching, I put the sand side down. This
might make a good club or group project. It reduces the cost of the
discs to less than half.

robo hippy

make an inertia sander, it's nearly free - plans on my web, if I remember
right (www.wbnoble.com) and in the tips section of www.woodturners.org. for
power sanding, I use a right angle pneumatic drill - much lighter, more
power and less heat
bill
"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
As I explore the joys of turning, I'm learning a lot. Thanks, folks, for
all of the experience, and opinion, that you share so freely.

Power sanding:

I'm confused as to where to proceed. The catalogs have their usual
bewildering array, and while they certainly wish me no active ill will,
their express purpose in life is to melt down my Amex card. ;-)

Inertial sanders. Air powers dual action sanders. Electric angle
sanders.
Wave discs. Foam backed pads. So many competing choices!

I've got a new Jet 1442, having retired the Shopsmith to 'other, less
stressful duties'. (OK, there are a bunch of boxes piled on top of it in
the shed right now.) I've been turning salad-style bowls in the 10"-14"
range, in dry cabinet-style woods, because I have access to some free - to
- cheap offcuts up to 12/4. I've started on some green wood turning, but
that goes slowly, primarily due to stock prep and storage right now. (I
know that once I get rolling, that may change.)

So what should I try next?

Patriarch

On Fri, 27 May 2005 22:53:34 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

As I explore the joys of turning, I'm learning a lot. Thanks, folks, for
all of the experience, and opinion, that you share so freely.

Power sanding:

I'm confused as to where to proceed. The catalogs have their usual
bewildering array, and while they certainly wish me no active ill will,
their express purpose in life is to melt down my Amex card. ;-)

Inertial sanders. Air powers dual action sanders. Electric angle sanders.
Wave discs. Foam backed pads. So many competing choices!

I've got a new Jet 1442, having retired the Shopsmith to 'other, less
stressful duties'. (OK, there are a bunch of boxes piled on top of it in
the shed right now.) I've been turning salad-style bowls in the 10"-14"
range, in dry cabinet-style woods, because I have access to some free - to
- cheap offcuts up to 12/4. I've started on some green wood turning, but
that goes slowly, primarily due to stock prep and storage right now. (I
know that once I get rolling, that may change.)

So what should I try next?

Patriarch

I've been power sanding for a few months now and loving it...
I started out on a budget with the stuff below and an old craftsman 3/8 corded
drill.. it works great and maybe someday when I'm rich, I'll buy a little right
angle drill.. *g*

http://www.woodworkingshop.com
and type this number in the search box:
FP30000

Get the hook & loop disks in the 10 pack, and when you find out which grits you
use, the 50 pack is a pretty good deal..

Compared to what I was paying for sand paper, these are a money and time
saver... I've used one set of discs (3 grits.. i love h&L) on 3 or 4 bowls
before they wore out..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Since you have an old Shopsmith why not put it to use. I use two faceplates
for each bowl...one for my Jet Mini...one for my old Shopsmith. For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill. If your Shopsmith
isn't old enough to have reverse perhaps it can be rewired.
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 May 2005 22:53:34 -0500, Patriarch

wrote:

As I explore the joys of turning, I'm learning a lot. Thanks, folks, for
all of the experience, and opinion, that you share so freely.

Power sanding:

I'm confused as to where to proceed. The catalogs have their usual
bewildering array, and while they certainly wish me no active ill will,
their express purpose in life is to melt down my Amex card. ;-)

Inertial sanders. Air powers dual action sanders. Electric angle
sanders.
Wave discs. Foam backed pads. So many competing choices!

I've got a new Jet 1442, having retired the Shopsmith to 'other, less
stressful duties'. (OK, there are a bunch of boxes piled on top of it in
the shed right now.) I've been turning salad-style bowls in the 10"-14"
range, in dry cabinet-style woods, because I have access to some free -
to
- cheap offcuts up to 12/4. I've started on some green wood turning, but
that goes slowly, primarily due to stock prep and storage right now. (I
know that once I get rolling, that may change.)

So what should I try next?

Patriarch

I've been power sanding for a few months now and loving it...
I started out on a budget with the stuff below and an old craftsman 3/8
corded
drill.. it works great and maybe someday when I'm rich, I'll buy a little
right
angle drill.. *g*

http://www.woodworkingshop.com
and type this number in the search box:
FP30000

Get the hook & loop disks in the 10 pack, and when you find out which
grits you
use, the 50 pack is a pretty good deal..

Compared to what I was paying for sand paper, these are a money and time
saver... I've used one set of discs (3 grits.. i love h&L) on 3 or 4 bowls
before they wore out..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"
wrote:

Since you have an old Shopsmith why not put it to use. I use two faceplates
for each bowl...one for my Jet Mini...one for my old Shopsmith. For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill. If your Shopsmith
isn't old enough to have reverse perhaps it can be rewired.

My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..






mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

James R. Shields wrote:
Since you have an old Shopsmith why not put it to use. I use two faceplates
for each bowl...one for my Jet Mini...one for my old Shopsmith. For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill. If your Shopsmith
isn't old enough to have reverse perhaps it can be rewired.
"mac davis" wrote in message
...

On Fri, 27 May 2005 22:53:34 -0500, Patriarch



How old does a Shopsmith have to be to have reverse?

mac davis wrote:

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"
wrote:


Since you have an old Shopsmith why not put it to use. I use two faceplates
for each bowl...one for my Jet Mini...one for my old Shopsmith. For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill. If your Shopsmith
isn't old enough to have reverse perhaps it can be rewired.


My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..






mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
It will work on the rear shaft. This reverse sanding was identified by
some Shopsmith literature I had at one time(may still have it somewhere).

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"

For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill.

My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted
the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..

This makes sense to you, Mac? "Sanding against the cut?"

Not sure how you cut, but I cut from rim to bottom inside, bottom to rim
outside. Leaves concentric gouge marks which are best removed by sanding
across them. On a disk, means touching 345 to 015 degrees, or 165 to 195.
Of course, if the piece itself is rotating, the actual pattern of scratches
will be some sort of angled one, though it would be an "X" (with curved
legs) if one went bottom then top. If the piece were rotating in reverse?
Still an "X" overall. Broaden the legs by sanding closer to 090 or 270.

The advantage of power sanding over hand sanding is that when hand sanding,
you're trying to remove marks by sanding in the same pattern of concentric
marks, with power, you can cut across them. Makes much shorter work of
removal.

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 08:55:02 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"
wrote:

Since you have an old Shopsmith why not put it to use. I use two faceplates
for each bowl...one for my Jet Mini...one for my old Shopsmith. For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill. If your Shopsmith
isn't old enough to have reverse perhaps it can be rewired.

My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..

Yeah, it's probably too good to be true. I had the same thought about
the rear shaft of my Delta Midi, and upon removing the handwheel
discovered that the threads were not only a different tpi count, but
had a big dead spot in the center where the set screws go. Too bad,
really- it would have been handy to turn slightly larger things on the
outside.

Prometheus wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 08:55:02 -0700, mac davis
wrote:


On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"
wrote:


Since you have an old Shopsmith why not put it to use. I use two faceplates
for each bowl...one for my Jet Mini...one for my old Shopsmith. For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill. If your Shopsmith
isn't old enough to have reverse perhaps it can be rewired.

My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..


Yeah, it's probably too good to be true. I had the same thought about
the rear shaft of my Delta Midi, and upon removing the handwheel
discovered that the threads were not only a different tpi count, but
had a big dead spot in the center where the set screws go. Too bad,
really- it would have been handy to turn slightly larger things on the
outside.


The Shaft on a Shopsmith is not threaded. Attachments are held on with a
set screw. If you look at the rear shaft you will observe a flat
section on the shaft for set screws. , the same as the front shaft.

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 18:09:06 GMT, Ralph wrote:

mac davis wrote:

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"
wrote:


Since you have an old Shopsmith why not put it to use. I use two faceplates
for each bowl...one for my Jet Mini...one for my old Shopsmith. For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill. If your Shopsmith
isn't old enough to have reverse perhaps it can be rewired.


My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..


Please remove splinters before emailing
It will work on the rear shaft. This reverse sanding was identified by
some Shopsmith literature I had at one time(may still have it somewhere).

cool...
thanks, ralph... I was going to check it out last night, but my Mini died and
ruined my night pretty effectively.. *sigh*

Going shopping today for a Jet 1442 vsk...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 15:34:17 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"

For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill.

My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted
the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..

This makes sense to you, Mac? "Sanding against the cut?"

Not sure how you cut, but I cut from rim to bottom inside, bottom to rim
outside. Leaves concentric gouge marks which are best removed by sanding
across them. On a disk, means touching 345 to 015 degrees, or 165 to 195.
Of course, if the piece itself is rotating, the actual pattern of scratches
will be some sort of angled one, though it would be an "X" (with curved
legs) if one went bottom then top. If the piece were rotating in reverse?
Still an "X" overall. Broaden the legs by sanding closer to 090 or 270.

The advantage of power sanding over hand sanding is that when hand sanding,
you're trying to remove marks by sanding in the same pattern of concentric
marks, with power, you can cut across them. Makes much shorter work of
removal.

dunno, George.. I just hit a few pieces where the hand and power sanding is
causing "mini-tear out" and if I hand sand in the other direction (with the
grain?) the bowl is sanded smoother without burnishing it..
it seems to "stand up" the fibers like one of those old Norelco commercials, but
then leaving them instead of cutting them off.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Not sure how you cut, but I cut from rim to bottom inside, bottom to rim
outside. Leaves concentric gouge marks which are best removed by sanding
across them. On a disk, means touching 345 to 015 degrees, or 165 to
195.
Of course, if the piece itself is rotating, the actual pattern of
scratches
will be some sort of angled one, though it would be an "X" (with curved
legs) if one went bottom then top. If the piece were rotating in
reverse?
Still an "X" overall. Broaden the legs by sanding closer to 090 or 270.


dunno, George.. I just hit a few pieces where the hand and power sanding
is
causing "mini-tear out" and if I hand sand in the other direction (with
the
grain?) the bowl is sanded smoother without burnishing it..
it seems to "stand up" the fibers like one of those old Norelco
commercials, but
then leaving them instead of cutting them off.. lol


Rotating the piece? Revealing the tearout, probably. All directions are
possible with a disk and a rotating piece, so it's a tough thing to
figure....

Not sure this is all relevant to the discussion but does relate to sanding.
Having turned now for over a year I find that fewer of my bowls need to
start sanding at 89 grit. Often I can start at 180 and that is indeed a
godsend. Where I find tearout and 80 or even 60 is a pain, I use sanding
sealer. Glop some on. Let dry for 12 hours or so and hit with the
sandpaper starting at 120. Seems to work well for me.



"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 15:34:17 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"

For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for
better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill.

My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted
the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..

This makes sense to you, Mac? "Sanding against the cut?"

Not sure how you cut, but I cut from rim to bottom inside, bottom to rim
outside. Leaves concentric gouge marks which are best removed by sanding
across them. On a disk, means touching 345 to 015 degrees, or 165 to
195.
Of course, if the piece itself is rotating, the actual pattern of
scratches
will be some sort of angled one, though it would be an "X" (with curved
legs) if one went bottom then top. If the piece were rotating in
reverse?
Still an "X" overall. Broaden the legs by sanding closer to 090 or 270.

The advantage of power sanding over hand sanding is that when hand
sanding,
you're trying to remove marks by sanding in the same pattern of
concentric
marks, with power, you can cut across them. Makes much shorter work of
removal.

dunno, George.. I just hit a few pieces where the hand and power sanding
is
causing "mini-tear out" and if I hand sand in the other direction (with
the
grain?) the bowl is sanded smoother without burnishing it..
it seems to "stand up" the fibers like one of those old Norelco
commercials, but
then leaving them instead of cutting them off.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

George george@least wrote:

: For sanding
: I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
: results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill.

: This makes sense to you, Mac? "Sanding against the cut?"

Well, if you turn the piece with the spindle rotating counterclockwise,
the fibers (on faceplate turning) will tend to be pushed clockwise.
(You can tell this by turning it, lathe off, in each direction, and
feeling more roughness in the clockwise direction).

So, sanding against the grain would be to sand with the sandpaper turning
c-clockwise with respect to the piece.

-- Andy Barss

Hi Mac , maybe you should go for some more quality and make it a Oneway
mini, no more ruined nights!!

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:

On Wed, my Mini died and
ruined my night pretty effectively.. *sigh*

Going shopping today for a Jet 1442 vsk...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac when you have the hair standing on end spray some hair spray on
them, let dry and give it a shave, LOL, might work for you you know,
LOLL louder.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:
snip/ if I hand sand in the other direction (with the
grain?) the bowl is sanded smoother without burnishing it..
it seems to "stand up" the fibers like one of those old Norelco commercials, but
then leaving them instead of cutting them off.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Thu, 02 Jun 2005 11:29:33 GMT, Ralph wrote:

Prometheus wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 08:55:02 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

Yeah, it's probably too good to be true. I had the same thought about
the rear shaft of my Delta Midi, and upon removing the handwheel
discovered that the threads were not only a different tpi count, but
had a big dead spot in the center where the set screws go. Too bad,
really- it would have been handy to turn slightly larger things on the
outside.


The Shaft on a Shopsmith is not threaded. Attachments are held on with a
set screw. If you look at the rear shaft you will observe a flat
section on the shaft for set screws. , the same as the front shaft.

That sounds pretty handy, actually. I've never actually encountered a
shopsmith, so I'll file that bit away.

"Andrew Barss" wrote in message
...
George george@least wrote:

: For sanding
: I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for
better
: results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill.

: This makes sense to you, Mac? "Sanding against the cut?"

Well, if you turn the piece with the spindle rotating counterclockwise,
the fibers (on faceplate turning) will tend to be pushed clockwise.
(You can tell this by turning it, lathe off, in each direction, and
feeling more roughness in the clockwise direction).

So, sanding against the grain would be to sand with the sandpaper turning
c-clockwise with respect to the piece.

It's a relative thing, Andy. If the sanding disk is moving faster than the
surface you're sanding one way, when slower, the other. Of course you can
get reverse relative direction on the other side of the disk, too.

Methinks what Mac's seeing is "those places" - we all know which ones -
where the ends of the grain have been picked up by a too-broad gouge
presentation. Like nap on a carpet, it shows rough pulled one way, looks
smooth pulled the other. Trouble is, smooth's often an illusion. Or maybe
no one else has ever gotten all the way to the finish and had to backtrack
to the sander to clean out those suddenly darker areas of torn grain?

Anyway, the best way to get them taken care of is to sand against the
lift - the same way they were created. Reverse only lays them down.

George's mention that "smooth" can be an illusion is right on and I
think it also can apply to final tooling. Often for me a final gentle
shear-scrape or burnish looks and feels velvety smooth, but doesn't sand
out and finish as well as after a final gentle shear-cut. Moistening the
surface after scraping or before sanding might make the fibers at parade
rest stand at attention.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Thu, 2 Jun 2005 14:47:26 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
Not sure how you cut, but I cut from rim to bottom inside, bottom to rim
outside. Leaves concentric gouge marks which are best removed by sanding
across them. On a disk, means touching 345 to 015 degrees, or 165 to
195.
Of course, if the piece itself is rotating, the actual pattern of
scratches
will be some sort of angled one, though it would be an "X" (with curved
legs) if one went bottom then top. If the piece were rotating in
reverse?
Still an "X" overall. Broaden the legs by sanding closer to 090 or 270.


dunno, George.. I just hit a few pieces where the hand and power sanding
is
causing "mini-tear out" and if I hand sand in the other direction (with
the
grain?) the bowl is sanded smoother without burnishing it..
it seems to "stand up" the fibers like one of those old Norelco
commercials, but
then leaving them instead of cutting them off.. lol


Rotating the piece? Revealing the tearout, probably. All directions are
possible with a disk and a rotating piece, so it's a tough thing to
figure....

well, I just bought a new lathe yesterday (jet 1442vs) and it doesn't have
reverse either... I guess I'll just have to develop better tool and sanding
skill.. *g*

BTW: thanks to you, George, I've been working on my tool angle, etc. and have
filled several trash bags with shavings and curls in the last month or so..
THANKS!



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Thu, 02 Jun 2005 22:19:51 -0400, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:

Mac when you have the hair standing on end spray some hair spray on
them, let dry and give it a shave, LOL, might work for you you know,
LOLL louder.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I'll try that Leo..

(on the wood, not my head... my wife says that my haircut is a "no hawk")



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 06:20:07 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:

Methinks what Mac's seeing is "those places" - we all know which ones -
where the ends of the grain have been picked up by a too-broad gouge
presentation. Like nap on a carpet, it shows rough pulled one way, looks
smooth pulled the other.

YES!!
Thanks, George!

Now I know what I'm doing wrong... my only bowl gouge was really more of a
re-ground spindle gouge and was probably a lot of the reason for the tear out...

I just got the bowl gouge set from Penn State, so that might help...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Thu, 02 Jun 2005 22:11:27 -0400, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:

WAY over my budget, Leo... (thought I caught my wife looking through my Oneway
catalog)
I got a Jet 1442 VSK yesterday for $850 including a few extras.. and free
assembly, since it was a floor model... very nice lathe...
In fear of starting a ****ing match, I have to say that I'm really glad that I
didn't decide to save $200 and get the Delta 14"...this is a much nicer lathe..

Hi Mac , maybe you should go for some more quality and make it a Oneway
mini, no more ruined nights!!

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:

On Wed, my Mini died and
ruined my night pretty effectively.. *sigh*

Going shopping today for a Jet 1442 vsk...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 04:55:43 -0500, Prometheus wrote:


The Shaft on a Shopsmith is not threaded. Attachments are held on with a
set screw. If you look at the rear shaft you will observe a flat
section on the shaft for set screws. , the same as the front shaft.

That sounds pretty handy, actually. I've never actually encountered a
shopsmith, so I'll file that bit away.

the rear shaft is very handy and fits anything that the main shaft fits...
very handy for a rubber bonded wheel while doing lathe work, the 12" disk sander
when sawing, or a buffing wheel on each..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that the motor on the Jet
lathe is on backwards? I was doing a demo for our club at the local
Woodcraft store, and they let me use the Jet 1440 with the variable
speed (I think it is called a 'reeves drive"). I had to use a faceplate
that stuck out farther that mine, because the bowl blank was hitting
the motor, but not even close to the bed orheadstock. Also, the intake
on the motor is right where all of the sanding dust goes. I consider
that to be a big disadvantage.

As far as the sanding goes, I have noticed that if you hand sand, the
fibers do tend to lay down in the direction of rotation. It is
necessary to reverse directionfor a rotation or three, by hand if
necessary, to stand the fibers back up, and sand them off. This doesn't
seem to be a problem with power sanding.
robo hippy

"mac davis" wrote in message
...


Now I know what I'm doing wrong... my only bowl gouge was really more of a
re-ground spindle gouge and was probably a lot of the reason for the tear
out...

I just got the bowl gouge set from Penn State, so that might help...


What would help more would be a forged gouge or one of those P&N detail
gouges I have my eye on. Problem with bowl gouges for final peel is that
they tend toward narrow noses that can block cutting if they are nosed in
favoring horizontal as the non-cutting upper part of the bevel pushes the
wood away. If you try to stand them on end to take advantage of the wood
slicing itself as it slides down a relatively straight edge, you sometimes
develop clearance problems with the rest and bed of the lathe. Especially
with the long handles they put on 'em.

Fingernail that spindle gouge if it's ground out of cylindrical stock, then
use it the way you would use (or see others use) a bowl gouge with
swept-back wings. No clearance problems, and broad enough to give you a
fairly wide sweet spot.

Time to reiterate rule two of turning - keep the rest close. Never give
leverage you can take.

On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 14:19:23 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .


Now I know what I'm doing wrong... my only bowl gouge was really more of a
re-ground spindle gouge and was probably a lot of the reason for the tear
out...

I just got the bowl gouge set from Penn State, so that might help...


What would help more would be a forged gouge or one of those P&N detail
gouges I have my eye on. Problem with bowl gouges for final peel is that
they tend toward narrow noses that can block cutting if they are nosed in
favoring horizontal as the non-cutting upper part of the bevel pushes the
wood away. If you try to stand them on end to take advantage of the wood
slicing itself as it slides down a relatively straight edge, you sometimes
develop clearance problems with the rest and bed of the lathe. Especially
with the long handles they put on 'em.

Fingernail that spindle gouge if it's ground out of cylindrical stock, then
use it the way you would use (or see others use) a bowl gouge with
swept-back wings. No clearance problems, and broad enough to give you a
fairly wide sweet spot.

Time to reiterate rule two of turning - keep the rest close. Never give
leverage you can take.

I really couldn't get the feel for the 3 bowl gouge set... seems like they
either catch, chatter or don't cut.... just don't feel right..

Last night, I took the 1/2" one and ground it somewhere between a swept and
fingernail, and it seems to cut well..

they come looking like a pipe cut in half.. flat across the entire "nose"
area...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On 3 Jun 2005 09:44:30 -0700, "robo hippy" wrote:

Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that the motor on the Jet
lathe is on backwards? I was doing a demo for our club at the local
Woodcraft store, and they let me use the Jet 1440 with the variable
speed (I think it is called a 'reeves drive"). I had to use a faceplate
that stuck out farther that mine, because the bowl blank was hitting
the motor, but not even close to the bed orheadstock. Also, the intake
on the motor is right where all of the sanding dust goes. I consider
that to be a big disadvantage.

As far as the sanding goes, I have noticed that if you hand sand, the
fibers do tend to lay down in the direction of rotation. It is
necessary to reverse directionfor a rotation or three, by hand if
necessary, to stand the fibers back up, and sand them off. This doesn't
seem to be a problem with power sanding.
robo hippy

It must be how they do the VS on the jet... my Jet mini wasn't vs and the motor
was below the head stock shaft...
I noticed last night that when I went from a chuck to a faceplate on the Jet
1442vs that the motor was WAY too far forward for my taste.. lol

If you're roughing a bowl, you have to make sure that the face plate is the
closest part of the wood to the head stock.. any overhang due to crooked chain
saw cut, etc. is gonna scrape on the motor housing...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote in
:

I got a Jet 1442 VSK yesterday for $850 including a few extras.. and
free assembly, since it was a floor model... very nice lathe...
In fear of starting a ****ing match, I have to say that I'm really
glad that I didn't decide to save $200 and get the Delta 14"...this is
a much nicer lathe..

I've been really happy with my 1442, for all of the last two months. It
replaced a Shopsmith, which is now holding up boxes in the shed. My wife
was concerned that I was going to order the big Oneway as well. Maybe next
year. ;-)

My major dissatisfaction is that I don't have enough time to get to all of
the green wood (free) that is piling up in the bowl blank preparation area
in the yard.

Isn't it nice that's the worst of my worries? ;-)

Patriarch

mac davis wrote in
:

On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 04:55:43 -0500, Prometheus
wrote:


The Shaft on a Shopsmith is not threaded. Attachments are held on
with a set screw. If you look at the rear shaft you will observe a
flat section on the shaft for set screws. , the same as the front
shaft.

That sounds pretty handy, actually. I've never actually encountered a
shopsmith, so I'll file that bit away.

the rear shaft is very handy and fits anything that the main shaft
fits... very handy for a rubber bonded wheel while doing lathe work,
the 12" disk sander when sawing, or a buffing wheel on each..


And they can be had used for a short song, if you look around a bit, and
don't want all of the auxillary tools that folks sometimes buy for the
'system'.

Patriarch

On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 23:56:56 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

mac davis wrote in
:

I got a Jet 1442 VSK yesterday for $850 including a few extras.. and
free assembly, since it was a floor model... very nice lathe...
In fear of starting a ****ing match, I have to say that I'm really
glad that I didn't decide to save $200 and get the Delta 14"...this is
a much nicer lathe..

I've been really happy with my 1442, for all of the last two months. It
replaced a Shopsmith, which is now holding up boxes in the shed. My wife
was concerned that I was going to order the big Oneway as well. Maybe next
year. ;-)

My major dissatisfaction is that I don't have enough time to get to all of
the green wood (free) that is piling up in the bowl blank preparation area
in the yard.

Isn't it nice that's the worst of my worries? ;-)

Patriarch

for sure!
I'm going out tomorrow and get another truck load of logs, most of which will go
on the shelf under this beast.. might keep it from walking away.. *lol*



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 00:02:27 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

mac davis wrote in
:

On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 04:55:43 -0500, Prometheus
wrote:


The Shaft on a Shopsmith is not threaded. Attachments are held on
with a set screw. If you look at the rear shaft you will observe a
flat section on the shaft for set screws. , the same as the front
shaft.

That sounds pretty handy, actually. I've never actually encountered a
shopsmith, so I'll file that bit away.

the rear shaft is very handy and fits anything that the main shaft
fits... very handy for a rubber bonded wheel while doing lathe work,
the 12" disk sander when sawing, or a buffing wheel on each..


And they can be had used for a short song, if you look around a bit, and
don't want all of the auxillary tools that folks sometimes buy for the
'system'.

Patriarch

yep... a friend bought one for $250 with a few accessories... it was less that
he was planning to pay for a drill press..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing