"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:13:47 GMT, "James R. Shields"

For sanding
I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better
results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill.

My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted
the
faceplate on the rear shaft....
hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..

This makes sense to you, Mac? "Sanding against the cut?"

Not sure how you cut, but I cut from rim to bottom inside, bottom to rim
outside. Leaves concentric gouge marks which are best removed by sanding
across them. On a disk, means touching 345 to 015 degrees, or 165 to 195.
Of course, if the piece itself is rotating, the actual pattern of scratches
will be some sort of angled one, though it would be an "X" (with curved
legs) if one went bottom then top. If the piece were rotating in reverse?
Still an "X" overall. Broaden the legs by sanding closer to 090 or 270.

The advantage of power sanding over hand sanding is that when hand sanding,
you're trying to remove marks by sanding in the same pattern of concentric
marks, with power, you can cut across them. Makes much shorter work of
removal.