Hello all,

I've decided that getting myself a chuck for my midi lathe is getting
to be a good idea, but I don't want to dent my table saw budget too
badly. I was looking around online, and found that Grizzly offers a
couple that will fit the lathe for a lot less than anyone else... Are
the Grizzly chucks worth using for occasional turning, or do I really
need to dig up the extra cash and get something else?

I guess I'm not overly concerned about insanely tight machining
tolerances or minimal runout, but I do want to exercise reasonable
caution when I pick the thing out to limit the chance of chunks of
wood flying off the lathe and whacking me in the head! The lathe has
got a 10" swing capacity and a 17" bed length (IIRC) so I'm not going
to be turning anything larger than that, and most everything is going
to be considerably smaller than that anyhow. I just want to turn
round objects for now, so one-handed tightening is a plus- and
independant jaws are probably more hassle then they're worth for a
novice in any case.

If I decide to upgrade to a bigger lathe sometime down the road, I'll
look into some of the high-end chucks, but I'm wondering if they're
really necessary when I'm not even sure what features I'm looking for
yet.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I'd like to keep the chuck budget under
$70-$100 if humanly possible! It'd sure be irritating to end up with
a $300 tool accessory that I never use, or is that is far more than I
need.

(The lathe takes a 1"x 8 tpi chuck, and 3" or 4" should be more than
adequate for me)


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

Prometheus wrote in
:

Any thoughts or suggestions? I'd like to keep the chuck budget under
$70-$100 if humanly possible! It'd sure be irritating to end up with
a $300 tool accessory that I never use, or is that is far more than I
need.

(The lathe takes a 1"x 8 tpi chuck, and 3" or 4" should be more than
adequate for me)


I spent $99 on a Nova Midi, new model, at Woodcraft last month. It's
another reason my discretionary spending budget is way overdrawn right now.

Well, that, and the Jet lathe...

Patriarch

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
Prometheus wrote in
:

Any thoughts or suggestions? I'd like to keep the chuck budget under
$70-$100 if humanly possible! It'd sure be irritating to end up with
a $300 tool accessory that I never use, or is that is far more than I
need.

(The lathe takes a 1"x 8 tpi chuck, and 3" or 4" should be more than
adequate for me)


I spent $99 on a Nova Midi, new model, at Woodcraft last month. It's
another reason my discretionary spending budget is way overdrawn right
now.

Well, that, and the Jet lathe...


Now get the pin jaws. Most versatile set for the Nova series.

On Tue, 10 May 2005 07:43:31 -0500, Prometheus wrote:

On the advice of a lot of folks here, I got the Oneway Talon last year.. a bit
pricey at about $175, but it's turned out to be a great investment..
I used it with my shopsmith (still do for bigger things) and now on my Jet
mini.. I'm sure that i'll use it on my next lathe and it will still be great...
As with most tools, it only hurts for a little while but beats the hell out of
spending $100 on an "ok" one and upgrading later.. YMMV

Hello all,

I've decided that getting myself a chuck for my midi lathe is getting
to be a good idea, but I don't want to dent my table saw budget too
badly. I was looking around online, and found that Grizzly offers a
couple that will fit the lathe for a lot less than anyone else... Are
the Grizzly chucks worth using for occasional turning, or do I really
need to dig up the extra cash and get something else?

I guess I'm not overly concerned about insanely tight machining
tolerances or minimal runout, but I do want to exercise reasonable
caution when I pick the thing out to limit the chance of chunks of
wood flying off the lathe and whacking me in the head! The lathe has
got a 10" swing capacity and a 17" bed length (IIRC) so I'm not going
to be turning anything larger than that, and most everything is going
to be considerably smaller than that anyhow. I just want to turn
round objects for now, so one-handed tightening is a plus- and
independant jaws are probably more hassle then they're worth for a
novice in any case.

If I decide to upgrade to a bigger lathe sometime down the road, I'll
look into some of the high-end chucks, but I'm wondering if they're
really necessary when I'm not even sure what features I'm looking for
yet.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I'd like to keep the chuck budget under
$70-$100 if humanly possible! It'd sure be irritating to end up with
a $300 tool accessory that I never use, or is that is far more than I
need.

(The lathe takes a 1"x 8 tpi chuck, and 3" or 4" should be more than
adequate for me)


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I agree with Mac, I have one too. Keep in mind these Oneway chucks come
with an insert to fit the threads of your lathe (or in some cases,
they're a moderately priced "option"). This means you can just buy
another insert if/when you upgrade to a bigger lathe. I'm not sure if
the Grizzly chucks are adaptable in this way. You don't have to keep
buying chucks as you move from lathe to lathe.

"George" george@least wrote in :

I spent $99 on a Nova Midi, new model, at Woodcraft last month. It's
another reason my discretionary spending budget is way overdrawn right
now.

Well, that, and the Jet lathe...


Now get the pin jaws. Most versatile set for the Nova series.


Care to explain why you state that? Before I spend my money? ;-)

I see the pin jaws on the Teknatool site, but not at either Woodcraft or
Craft Supplies. Suggestions?

Patriarch

I bought a cheap Grizzly type chuck and I must admit I did a lot of work
with it and it held quite well although I was no shrinking violet when it
came to tightening the jaws. I have since bought Oneway and really there is
no comparison. Since you can buy different inserts the investment doesn't
die with changing the spindle size.
I don't know your finances but certainly recommend you go the better chuck
route from the start if you can.
Billh

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 May 2005 07:43:31 -0500, Prometheus
wrote:

On the advice of a lot of folks here, I got the Oneway Talon last year.. a
bit
pricey at about $175, but it's turned out to be a great investment..
I used it with my shopsmith (still do for bigger things) and now on my Jet
mini.. I'm sure that i'll use it on my next lathe and it will still be
great...
As with most tools, it only hurts for a little while but beats the hell
out of
spending $100 on an "ok" one and upgrading later.. YMMV

Hello all,

I've decided that getting myself a chuck for my midi lathe is getting
to be a good idea, but I don't want to dent my table saw budget too
badly. I was looking around online, and found that Grizzly offers a
couple that will fit the lathe for a lot less than anyone else... Are
the Grizzly chucks worth using for occasional turning, or do I really
need to dig up the extra cash and get something else?

I guess I'm not overly concerned about insanely tight machining
tolerances or minimal runout, but I do want to exercise reasonable
caution when I pick the thing out to limit the chance of chunks of
wood flying off the lathe and whacking me in the head! The lathe has
got a 10" swing capacity and a 17" bed length (IIRC) so I'm not going
to be turning anything larger than that, and most everything is going
to be considerably smaller than that anyhow. I just want to turn
round objects for now, so one-handed tightening is a plus- and
independant jaws are probably more hassle then they're worth for a
novice in any case.

If I decide to upgrade to a bigger lathe sometime down the road, I'll
look into some of the high-end chucks, but I'm wondering if they're
really necessary when I'm not even sure what features I'm looking for
yet.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I'd like to keep the chuck budget under
$70-$100 if humanly possible! It'd sure be irritating to end up with
a $300 tool accessory that I never use, or is that is far more than I
need.

(The lathe takes a 1"x 8 tpi chuck, and 3" or 4" should be more than
adequate for me)


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"George" george@least wrote in :

I spent $99 on a Nova Midi, new model, at Woodcraft last month. It's
another reason my discretionary spending budget is way overdrawn right
now.

Well, that, and the Jet lathe...


Now get the pin jaws. Most versatile set for the Nova series.


Care to explain why you state that? Before I spend my money? ;-)

I see the pin jaws on the Teknatool site, but not at either Woodcraft or
Craft Supplies. Suggestions?

Patriarch

I assume your midi chuck came with a woodworm screw? If so don't waste your
money on pin jaws....!

--

Regards,
M.J. (Mike) Orr
www.island.net/~morr

Prometheus writes:

I've decided that getting myself a chuck for my midi lathe is getting
to be a good idea, but I don't want to dent my table saw budget too
badly. I was looking around online, and found that Grizzly offers a
couple that will fit the lathe for a lot less than anyone else...

Are you talking about http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2005/main/096.cfm?
The new 4-jaw self-centering chuck?

(I own the SuperNova.)

I checked some prices and the Nova Midi has two versions - fixed
insert and replacable insert. The Midi with the fixed insert seems to
go for about $120. Replacable insert version is about $150.

So the Griz is $89, and the Nova Midi is $120 - a difference of $31.

Here's one on eBay for $99 - only $10 more than the griz.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll... 459&tc=photo

I see that it uses tommybars. Oh well. The one-handed operations is nice.

Second - I only see 2 different kids of Grizzly jaws besides the one that
comes with the system. Perhaps it takes jaws from other chucks.
Anyone know?

Future upgrades is an important issue.

--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"George" george@least wrote in :

I spent $99 on a Nova Midi, new model, at Woodcraft last month. It's
another reason my discretionary spending budget is way overdrawn right
now.

Well, that, and the Jet lathe...


Now get the pin jaws. Most versatile set for the Nova series.


Care to explain why you state that? Before I spend my money? ;-)

I see the pin jaws on the Teknatool site, but not at either Woodcraft or
Craft Supplies. Suggestions?


They are 25mm dovetail jaws, jaws for holding a rough piece internally which
do not destroy the hold, and a great outside grab for long thin pieces of
wood. Stopper turners and such should love 'em. I use them to grab the
"icecicles" on ornaments.

You can take a peek at
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...ugh%20Page.htm to see one way
I use them.

If you leave a pillar, you can mount almost as true as you ended by running
a forstner down the hole you used for roughing. As the wood shrinks ~1%
along the end grain, the bit is cradled and guided to take off the
cross-grain portion.

Not a fan of the woodworm, it's one of those things like serrated jaws which
tears up things to hold them. It's also prone tearing on starting/stopping
if a wet piece has a lot of inertia.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
I see the pin jaws on the Teknatool site, but not at either Woodcraft or
Craft Supplies. Suggestions?

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merc...ourjaw-noptjaw

Sorry, forgot to tack that on.

"George" george@least wrote in :

snip
You can take a peek at
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...ugh%20Page.htm to see
one way I use them.

If you leave a pillar, you can mount almost as true as you ended by
running a forstner down the hole you used for roughing. As the wood
shrinks ~1% along the end grain, the bit is cradled and guided to take
off the cross-grain portion.

Thank you, George. Those will go onto 'the list'.

Patriarch

I like the Vicmarc chucks. They have several jaw accessory if you need
them. The thing I like the best is that it uses an allen wrench to adjust.
My understanding the gear type wrenches arre around $40 if lost or broken.
All I have to do is go to harbor freight and look for another T handle allen
wrench and I am back in busness.

Bruce
"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
Hello all,

I've decided that getting myself a chuck for my midi lathe is getting
to be a good idea, but I don't want to dent my table saw budget too
badly. I was looking around online, and found that Grizzly offers a
couple that will fit the lathe for a lot less than anyone else... Are
the Grizzly chucks worth using for occasional turning, or do I really
need to dig up the extra cash and get something else?

I guess I'm not overly concerned about insanely tight machining
tolerances or minimal runout, but I do want to exercise reasonable
caution when I pick the thing out to limit the chance of chunks of
wood flying off the lathe and whacking me in the head! The lathe has
got a 10" swing capacity and a 17" bed length (IIRC) so I'm not going
to be turning anything larger than that, and most everything is going
to be considerably smaller than that anyhow. I just want to turn
round objects for now, so one-handed tightening is a plus- and
independant jaws are probably more hassle then they're worth for a
novice in any case.

If I decide to upgrade to a bigger lathe sometime down the road, I'll
look into some of the high-end chucks, but I'm wondering if they're
really necessary when I'm not even sure what features I'm looking for
yet.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I'd like to keep the chuck budget under
$70-$100 if humanly possible! It'd sure be irritating to end up with
a $300 tool accessory that I never use, or is that is far more than I
need.

(The lathe takes a 1"x 8 tpi chuck, and 3" or 4" should be more than
adequate for me)


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

I have the Vivmarc also with a couple of other jaw sets. I have never
handed that chuck to anyone in the club that hasn't been throughly
impressed with the obvious quality. After they used it, they like it
even more.

I am on the side of spending all you can reasonably afford on your
chuck. Mine works fine on my Jet mini, and I have used the living hell
out if it. However, it is stout enough that when my Nova is back up in
the shop I will certainly use it on that lathe, too.

I think if you use a really good chuck you will not only appreciate it
more, but you will probably have that chuck in use on your lathe for a
lifetime.

Robert

On 10 May 2005 17:33:38 GMT, Bruce Barnett
wrote:

Prometheus writes:

I've decided that getting myself a chuck for my midi lathe is getting
to be a good idea, but I don't want to dent my table saw budget too
badly. I was looking around online, and found that Grizzly offers a
couple that will fit the lathe for a lot less than anyone else...

Are you talking about http://www.grizzly.com/catalogH/2005/main/096.cfm?
The new 4-jaw self-centering chuck?

Yeah, the H6265. That little cheap one for $39 looks like it's worth
a shot as well- I won't be out too much if it happens to be junk.

(I own the SuperNova.)

I checked some prices and the Nova Midi has two versions - fixed
insert and replacable insert. The Midi with the fixed insert seems to
go for about $120. Replacable insert version is about $150.

So the Griz is $89, and the Nova Midi is $120 - a difference of $31.

Here's one on eBay for $99 - only $10 more than the griz.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll... 459&tc=photo

I see that it uses tommybars. Oh well. The one-handed operations is nice.

Second - I only see 2 different kids of Grizzly jaws besides the one that
comes with the system. Perhaps it takes jaws from other chucks.
Anyone know?

Future upgrades is an important issue.

My problem is a lack of education on the issue. I have no idea what
jaws I'm going to want or need, whether I *want* replaceable inserts,
or if they're more work for less of a payoff, what a "tommybar" is, ad
infinitum. My guess is that I'm going to figure all that stuff out
in short order once I've got one in my hands, and then I can worry
about getting a really nice one- and that's only if I am actually
*able* to turn hollow vessels and the like. I might find that I only
like turning between centers...

That being said, is it possible that the $39 one is a better idea just
to get my feet wet, to limit my investment in a tool that may need to
be upgraded right away? I'm not trying to be obstinate about it, just
trying to make sure I don't waste $180 on a super-deluxe chuck only to
find that I really would have rather had one with independant jaws or
something!


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On 10 May 2005 22:22:41 -0700, wrote:

I have the Vivmarc also with a couple of other jaw sets. I have never
handed that chuck to anyone in the club that hasn't been throughly
impressed with the obvious quality. After they used it, they like it
even more.

I am on the side of spending all you can reasonably afford on your
chuck. Mine works fine on my Jet mini, and I have used the living hell
out if it. However, it is stout enough that when my Nova is back up in
the shop I will certainly use it on that lathe, too.

I think if you use a really good chuck you will not only appreciate it
more, but you will probably have that chuck in use on your lathe for a
lifetime.

Robert

Thanks for the advice from all of you guys! Of course, I should have
expected the get the best philosophy to be true here just like it is
with any tool. I think I'm going to try out the Grizzly for the
summer, and then upgrade to a nicer model as soon as I've got some of
the other tools I need to upgrade first in the shop.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On Tue, 10 May 2005 13:19:30 -0400, "billh"
wrote:

I bought a cheap Grizzly type chuck and I must admit I did a lot of work
with it and it held quite well although I was no shrinking violet when it
came to tightening the jaws.

I try not to overtighten things (first thing my uncle taught me back
when I was an apprentice saw sharpener) but I can crank things down
with the best of 'em if I have to. Just depends on the tool, and
whether or not it needs to be torqued on.

I have since bought Oneway and really there is
no comparison. Since you can buy different inserts the investment doesn't
die with changing the spindle size.

In what way is it superior? I'm sure it's a better product, but how
is it better?

I don't know your finances but certainly recommend you go the better chuck
route from the start if you can.

I'm financially comfortable, though not weathy, and I'm really
scrimping with the tool and lumber budget to try and get a Unisaw (or
similar giant cabineted beast) into my shop by the end of the summer.
If that was already out of the way, I'd be asking what the best darn
chuck money can buy is, instead of whether or not the cheapest one
will work at all!


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

In article ,
Bruce Barnett wrote:

Prometheus writes:

I've decided that getting myself a chuck for my midi lathe is getting
to be a good idea, but I don't want to dent my table saw budget too
badly. I was looking around online, and found that Grizzly offers a
couple that will fit the lathe for a lot less than anyone else...

Are you talking about http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2005/main/096.cfm?
The new 4-jaw self-centering chuck?

If you are talking about the G87xx series, I have one and am -NOT-
impressed

(I own the SuperNova.)

I checked some prices and the Nova Midi has two versions - fixed
insert and replacable insert. The Midi with the fixed insert seems to
go for about $120. Replacable insert version is about $150.

So the Griz is $89, and the Nova Midi is $120 - a difference of $31.

Ah.. you are talking about the H62xx series, maybe a different beast

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

In article ,
Prometheus wrote:

On 10 May 2005 17:33:38 GMT, Bruce Barnett
wrote:

Prometheus writes:

I've decided that getting myself a chuck for my midi lathe is getting
to be a good idea, but I don't want to dent my table saw budget too
badly. I was looking around online, and found that Grizzly offers a
couple that will fit the lathe for a lot less than anyone else...

Are you talking about http://www.grizzly.com/catalogH/2005/main/096.cfm?
The new 4-jaw self-centering chuck?

Yeah, the H6265. That little cheap one for $39 looks like it's worth
a shot as well- I won't be out too much if it happens to be junk.

I have one, not impressed, I wouldn't bother

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Wed, 11 May 2005 05:10:30 -0500, Prometheus wrote:

On 10 May 2005 22:22:41 -0700, wrote:

I have the Vivmarc also with a couple of other jaw sets. I have never
handed that chuck to anyone in the club that hasn't been throughly
impressed with the obvious quality. After they used it, they like it
even more.

I am on the side of spending all you can reasonably afford on your
chuck. Mine works fine on my Jet mini, and I have used the living hell
out if it. However, it is stout enough that when my Nova is back up in
the shop I will certainly use it on that lathe, too.

I think if you use a really good chuck you will not only appreciate it
more, but you will probably have that chuck in use on your lathe for a
lifetime.

Robert

Thanks for the advice from all of you guys! Of course, I should have
expected the get the best philosophy to be true here just like it is
with any tool. I think I'm going to try out the Grizzly for the
summer, and then upgrade to a nicer model as soon as I've got some of
the other tools I need to upgrade first in the shop.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

As to tommy bars.. I have no idea either.. one of the reasons that I picker the
oneway Talon was that it uses a large chuck key... and I already know how to use
one of those and how not to abuse it.. YMMV



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Prometheus wrote:

My problem is a lack of education on the issue. I have no idea what
jaws I'm going to want or need, whether I *want* replaceable inserts,
or if they're more work for less of a payoff, what a "tommybar" is, ad
infinitum. My guess is that I'm going to figure all that stuff out
in short order once I've got one in my hands, and then I can worry
about getting a really nice one- and that's only if I am actually
*able* to turn hollow vessels and the like. I might find that I only
like turning between centers...

Fred Holder has a book called Woodholding On The Lathe (title might be
worded wrong?). Might be worthwhile buying that First, then see what you
want to do. I know you can find it at Amazon - if your ISP is working,
which mine is not at the moment - and I'm pretty sure Fred sells it from
his site also.


That being said, is it possible that the $39 one is a better idea just
to get my feet wet, to limit my investment in a tool that may need to
be upgraded right away?

It's possible, but it's also possible that you get a piece of junk, have
problems with it and not know if it is your technique or the chuck which
is responsible. A good rule of thumb is 'You need better tools as a
novice than you do as an expert.' - not necessarily more expensive, but
good solid quality. The exception being cheap chisels for practicing
grinding.

I'm not trying to be obstinate about it, just
trying to make sure I don't waste $180 on a super-deluxe chuck only to
find that I really would have rather had one with independant jaws or
something!

I think you could easily sell a used Supernova. A used Thingamee is a
doorstop. If you get to a point where you Need independent jaws, you'll
probably have enough experience that you can get away with a less
expensive chuck with independent jaws and you'll want to keep the scroll
chuck anyway.

Again, try Fred's book before you buy. Here's Fred's site:

www.fholder.com/Woodturning/woodturn.htm

LD

Lobby Dosser wrote:

Again, try Fred's book before you buy. Here's Fred's site:

www.fholder.com/Woodturning/woodturn.htm

LD


Finally got web access back. Fred's book is:

A Guide to Work-Holding on the Lathe

Here's the description at Amazon:

With so many options for mounting wood on the lathe, woodworkers are
always seeking information on where the differences lie, what the top
techniques are, and how to choose the best type for their particular
project. Finally, here are all the answers, presented in full detail with
illustrated descriptions of the many different types of available chucks,
including jam fit chucks, glue chucks, screw chucks, and more. There’s
also an illuminating explanation of why the method of holding the work is
so important and a brief history of the lathe. Discussions on eccentric
turning methods and other forms of chucking round out this comprehensive
reference.

Fred does sell the book at his site, but you have to go through a pdf
file to get to it.

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:g1uge.25282$dw1.24590@trnddc02...


I think you could easily sell a used Supernova. A used Thingamee is a
doorstop. If you get to a point where you Need independent jaws, you'll
probably have enough experience that you can get away with a less
expensive chuck with independent jaws and you'll want to keep the scroll
chuck anyway.


I did a couple of mushrooms using Darrell's (?) technique of two 50mm, 2
25mm jaws on the Nova. Held, and made a neat "ground" under the mushroom.

"George" george@least wrote:


"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:g1uge.25282$dw1.24590@trnddc02...


I think you could easily sell a used Supernova. A used Thingamee is a
doorstop. If you get to a point where you Need independent jaws,
you'll probably have enough experience that you can get away with a
less expensive chuck with independent jaws and you'll want to keep
the scroll chuck anyway.


I did a couple of mushrooms using Darrell's (?) technique of two 50mm,
2 25mm jaws on the Nova. Held, and made a neat "ground" under the
mushroom.

Cool. Hadn't seen that, but the first thing that pops into my head for
holding it is 'glue block'.

Prometheus writes:

My problem is a lack of education on the issue. I have no idea what
jaws I'm going to want or need, whether I *want* replaceable inserts,
or if they're more work for less of a payoff, what a "tommybar" is, ad
infinitum.


That's what we are here for. I had the same problem., and this group
helped a lot.

I own a now useless 6-in-1 Chuck that did not have scroll jaws. To
tighten it requires two bars on opposite sides, and you squeeze them
together. This takes two hands. Trouble is - what if you have to hold
the wood with the third hand while you tighten the chuck?

(BTW The 6-in-1 was a real PITA chuck. I needed 4 hands).

That's why the 1-handed T-wrench is a good idea.

The insert means you can keep the chuck and accessories, and get a new
lathe. You buy a new insert, which fits between the lathe and the
chuck.


Teknatool made another chuck for mini's - the compac
JET 709513 Mini Lathe Compac Chuck, 1" x 8TPI - $90.99 on Amazon

This is being phased out, but still comes with a 2 year warranty.

So you can buy several jaws, and not lose your investment.
But it's also tommybar and not a T-Wrench. So that's a negative.

More info is on http://www.teknatool.com/

I do not have the Holder book, but I think it's a good idea.
Several of my books list some very simple and/or creative way to hold wood.
You don't always need a chuck. But it makes it faster.

Example - You can always glue a block of wood to your bowl, with brown
grocery bag paper in between. After you turn, you separate with a
chisel.


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Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:g1uge.25282$dw1.24590@trnddc02...
SNIP..............

I did a couple of mushrooms using Darrell's (?) technique of two 50mm, 2
25mm jaws on the Nova. Held, and made a neat "ground" under the mushroom.
------------------------
George,
Would you expandon that procedure or point to a link? TIA

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

"Ken Moon" wrote in message
news

"George" george@least wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
news:g1uge.25282$dw1.24590@trnddc02...
SNIP..............

I did a couple of mushrooms using Darrell's (?) technique of two 50mm, 2
25mm jaws on the Nova. Held, and made a neat "ground" under the
mushroom.
------------------------
George,
Would you expandon that procedure or point to a link? TIA


Wish I had one, I'd have posted it. Snow predicted tomorrow, so maybe I'll
put in some computer time to find it. Wasn't Darrell, I checked.

I think you could easily sell a used Supernova. A used Thingamee is a
doorstop. If you get to a point where you Need independent jaws, you'll
probably have enough experience that you can get away with a less
expensive chuck with independent jaws and you'll want to keep the scroll
chuck anyway.

Again, try Fred's book before you buy. Here's Fred's site:

Will do- thanks for the link!

www.fholder.com/Woodturning/woodturn.htm


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On 12 May 2005 02:36:38 GMT, Bruce Barnett
wrote:

I do not have the Holder book, but I think it's a good idea.
Several of my books list some very simple and/or creative way to hold wood.
You don't always need a chuck. But it makes it faster.

Example - You can always glue a block of wood to your bowl, with brown
grocery bag paper in between. After you turn, you separate with a
chisel.

I've heard that technique mentioned before, but never tried it- how
well does it work, and how much work is it to get the glue off
afterwards? Is that an appropriate technique for trying to do some
hollowing, with a vase, for instance- or is is only useful for
relatively shallow objects like bowls? That may be a good thing to
try while waiting for the tool account to grow a bit so I can get a
better chuck right off.




Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On Thu, 12 May 2005 06:36:12 -0500, Prometheus wrote:

On 12 May 2005 02:36:38 GMT, Bruce Barnett
wrote:

I do not have the Holder book, but I think it's a good idea.
Several of my books list some very simple and/or creative way to hold wood.
You don't always need a chuck. But it makes it faster.

Example - You can always glue a block of wood to your bowl, with brown
grocery bag paper in between. After you turn, you separate with a
chisel.

I've heard that technique mentioned before, but never tried it- how
well does it work, and how much work is it to get the glue off
afterwards? Is that an appropriate technique for trying to do some
hollowing, with a vase, for instance- or is is only useful for
relatively shallow objects like bowls? That may be a good thing to
try while waiting for the tool account to grow a bit so I can get a
better chuck right off.

I'd recommend spending a LOT of time at Darrell's site.. (hell, it's hard NOT
to)
http://aroundthewoods.com/

it's a sure webucation in wood turning..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 May 2005 13:19:30 -0400, "billh"
wrote:

I bought a cheap Grizzly type chuck and I must admit I did a lot of work
with it and it held quite well although I was no shrinking violet when it
came to tightening the jaws.

I try not to overtighten things (first thing my uncle taught me back
when I was an apprentice saw sharpener) but I can crank things down
with the best of 'em if I have to. Just depends on the tool, and
whether or not it needs to be torqued on.

I have since bought Oneway and really there is
no comparison. Since you can buy different inserts the investment doesn't
die with changing the spindle size.

In what way is it superior? I'm sure it's a better product, but how
is it better?

See below


I don't know your finances but certainly recommend you go the better chuck
route from the start if you can.

I'm financially comfortable, though not weathy, and I'm really
scrimping with the tool and lumber budget to try and get a Unisaw (or
similar giant cabineted beast) into my shop by the end of the summer.
If that was already out of the way, I'd be asking what the best darn
chuck money can buy is, instead of whether or not the cheapest one
will work at all!


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

The Oneway profiled jaws have a fantastic grip. Runout is virtually zero.
Quality materials; I have never heard of anybody wearing one out. Much
easier to remount a bowl and have it run true or close to it compared to the
cheapie. Uses inserts for different spindle sizes which is handy if you
upgrade or even if you have two lathes. Changeable jaws available in
different sizes and styles. These benefits are available with other top
quality chucks.

Billh

Prometheus writes:

Example - You can always glue a block of wood to your bowl, with brown
grocery bag paper in between. After you turn, you separate with a
chisel.

I've heard that technique mentioned before, but never tried it- how
well does it work, and how much work is it to get the glue off
afterwards?

It's what I used when I was turning faceplate/bowl work when I started.
You can scrape and sand to remove the paper and glue, but it's a thin
layer.

I'm not an expert, but ever try to separate a 2" surface glued to
another 2" surface? The glue is stronger than the wood.
The paper weakens this a little, but ...

And another nice thing is you can cut everything but the foot, and
then you can cut the foot nearly away at the end. The "chuck" is just
paper, after all. The smaller the foot, the less sanding you have to do.

Is that an appropriate technique for trying to do some
hollowing, with a vase, for instance- or is is only useful for
relatively shallow objects like bowls? That may be a good thing to
try while waiting for the tool account to grow a bit so I can get a
better chuck right off.

A vase would probably require gluing end grain to the paper, which
won't hold. Instead:

Cut a spigot on the end of the blank, remove it, and then mount a new
lock and cut a recess into the block, making it a "chuck". Jam it in.

Or, if you need more holding power, cut a slice in the chuck, and use
hose clamps.

There are hundreds of variations. The scroll jaw chuck is a
recent invention. The lathe is not. Some of the home made "chucks" I
have seen are dang clever.

An expensive chuck will make some things faster and easier, but old
fashioned techniques can make do. I think a dovetail recess is hard
without a metal chuck. But wood holds wood, and costs the same as
wood. It can take you far.

A $15 book will teach you how to do things that a $300 chuck can't do.


--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

The use of 2 #1 and 2 #2 jaws for a mushroom is a technique I learned from
Ken Bullock, but I have not seen his web site up for a while now.
www.oneofakindwoodturnings.com

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message
news:QFUge.62454$tg1.29072@edtnps84...
The use of 2 #1 and 2 #2 jaws for a mushroom is a technique I learned from
Ken Bullock, but I have not seen his web site up for a while now.
www.oneofakindwoodturnings.com

--
THANK YOU. I thought it was a Maritimer.

Ken was going on the RV retirement route, wasn't he? Generator and JET
mini.

"Ken Moon" wrote in message
news
I did a couple of mushrooms using Darrell's (?) technique of two 50mm, 2
25mm jaws on the Nova. Held, and made a neat "ground" under the
mushroom.
------------------------
George,
Would you expandon that procedure or point to a link? TIA


If that's you behind the address shown, I can pop you a copy of the e-book
Ken made showing the technique.

Ken closed it down when he started getting too much spam. He should have
just removed his email address.

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message
news:QFUge.62454$tg1.29072@edtnps84...
The use of 2 #1 and 2 #2 jaws for a mushroom is a technique I learned from
Ken Bullock, but I have not seen his web site up for a while now.
www.oneofakindwoodturnings.com

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

"George" george@least wrote in message
...

"Ken Moon" wrote in message
news
I did a couple of mushrooms using Darrell's (?) technique of two 50mm,
2
25mm jaws on the Nova. Held, and made a neat "ground" under the
mushroom.
------------------------
George,
Would you expandon that procedure or point to a link? TIA


If that's you behind the address shown, I can pop you a copy of the e-book
Ken made showing the technique.

==============
George,
It's good, at least for now. May have to go to an alias soon due to
increasing spam. Earthlink SpamBlocker isn't stopping as much spam as it
once did; or maybe there's just that much more to block now.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

"Ken Moon" wrote in
.net:
snip

It's good, at least for now. May have to go to an alias soon due to
increasing spam. Earthlink SpamBlocker isn't stopping as much spam as
it once did; or maybe there's just that much more to block now.

It's a constant ebb and flow, with spammers working around the blockers'
methods.

The same bozos that got blocked last week find a new way around this week,
and so on.

The only complete defense is an air gap, but then you have junk mail.

Patriarch

On Fri, 13 May 2005 23:57:00 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

"Ken Moon" wrote in
k.net:
snip

It's good, at least for now. May have to go to an alias soon due to
increasing spam. Earthlink SpamBlocker isn't stopping as much spam as
it once did; or maybe there's just that much more to block now.

It's a constant ebb and flow, with spammers working around the blockers'
methods.

The same bozos that got blocked last week find a new way around this week,
and so on.

The only complete defense is an air gap, but then you have junk mail.

Patriarch

It never changes, the sword & shield theory.... the spam blocking gets better,
which makes the spammers get better software, which makes the ISP get even
better blocking stuff, etc., etc., etc...

I remember back in the bad ol' days of everyone having apple computers and
attempts at anti-piracy software verses code-breaking copy programs..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Is the PSI Barracuda chuck any good? It seems to have all the needed
jaws available. Price is good. $125 for everything except the cole
jaws.
BAM