Prometheus wrote:

My problem is a lack of education on the issue. I have no idea what
jaws I'm going to want or need, whether I *want* replaceable inserts,
or if they're more work for less of a payoff, what a "tommybar" is, ad
infinitum. My guess is that I'm going to figure all that stuff out
in short order once I've got one in my hands, and then I can worry
about getting a really nice one- and that's only if I am actually
*able* to turn hollow vessels and the like. I might find that I only
like turning between centers...

Fred Holder has a book called Woodholding On The Lathe (title might be
worded wrong?). Might be worthwhile buying that First, then see what you
want to do. I know you can find it at Amazon - if your ISP is working,
which mine is not at the moment - and I'm pretty sure Fred sells it from
his site also.


That being said, is it possible that the $39 one is a better idea just
to get my feet wet, to limit my investment in a tool that may need to
be upgraded right away?

It's possible, but it's also possible that you get a piece of junk, have
problems with it and not know if it is your technique or the chuck which
is responsible. A good rule of thumb is 'You need better tools as a
novice than you do as an expert.' - not necessarily more expensive, but
good solid quality. The exception being cheap chisels for practicing
grinding.

I'm not trying to be obstinate about it, just
trying to make sure I don't waste $180 on a super-deluxe chuck only to
find that I really would have rather had one with independant jaws or
something!

I think you could easily sell a used Supernova. A used Thingamee is a
doorstop. If you get to a point where you Need independent jaws, you'll
probably have enough experience that you can get away with a less
expensive chuck with independent jaws and you'll want to keep the scroll
chuck anyway.

Again, try Fred's book before you buy. Here's Fred's site:

www.fholder.com/Woodturning/woodturn.htm

LD