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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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I have a couple of questions I thought I would throw out to the group.
I am an amateur cuemaker of sorts. Recently however I came upon a used metal lathe that I have since found it to be one of the Taiwan made Enco lathes dated 1987. The headstock has a self centering 3 jaw chuck, however when I chuck up a piece of stock I can see with a dial indicator that there is some runout. Is there an easy way to check to see if the runout is in the chuck or in the spindle bearings? If it is in the chuck has anyone every tried resurfacing the jaw faces some by using some type of boring bar or tool post grinder? Would this help the problem just at one point or for several diameters? If this is not the "solution" what would be the next step to try, besides replacing the chuck? I have never replaced a chuck before on one of these lathes, but I am very mechanically inclined, however I still would like some guidance on the subject. I have seen some of the "adjustable" three jaw chucks for around the $250 range at places like Enco sale flyers, etc. Are they any good for the $$$ your spending? or should I save up for a $1500 chuck ( worth more than my whole lathe! ). The second question I have is, what do cuemakers (and anyone else who is forced to work on long stock that passes through the headstock) usually do to solve the left side of the headstock dillema? Do most people mount a second three jaw chuck on the back side of the headstock? Or are some type of shims or collets used? Ordo they rely soley on the length of the jaws in the front chuck to keep things lined up, since we are talking fairly lightweight pieces of wood. Right now the Enco has some type of rotating lightweight chuck assembly with "RIDGID" stamped on it. So I can only assume that it is something used in pipe threading or some type of pipe work, however I am not sure how accurate it is, plus it tightens by rotating the device around your work, similar say to a speedchuck in a regular drill. I havent had a chance to put an indicator on this Ridgid contraption but I would wager it is no where near accurate enough, however I may be wrong. Has anyone had any experience with one of these? If you want to see what I'm talking about email me and I will send some pics. Sorry for the long post, but if you read this far thank you. Please feel free to forward all replies directly to me if you wish. Thanks! Jeff Smith please send reply to ( remove the NOSPAM ) |
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