Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and
the other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off,
DVD, video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house fire
from a TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to
try the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on the
mains panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse and the
power consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me but I don't
understand the relationship between power consumption and ampage.

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit more
first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Steve

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit more
first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

No. 150 w = 0.62 amps assuming 240v mains voltage. (150 / 240 = 0.62)
Fit a 3 amp mains fuse instead.

Alan.

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit more
first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

No it doesn't, unless it is quite a huge thing that could stretch to a 5A
(my hungry 36" CRT model is happy on 3A). Remove it immediately and replace
it with a 3A fuse. Everything in your house should have a 3A fuse, with some
exceptions for high rated appliances, usually involving powerful motors or
heating elements. The exceptions which require 13A might include:

washing machines
tumble dryers
dishwashers
kettles
microwave ovens
conventional ovens
toasters
vacuum cleaners
fridges/freezers (some will be happy with 5A)

Anything to do with lighting or entertainment should have a 3A fuse (or
lower if you can find supplies). I would suggest going around your house and
examining every fuse to be the right value. Whilst doing this, ensure that
the following look good:

1. Cable condition.
2. Strain relief on plug and appliance ends.
3. Outer sheaf goes all the way into plug and is secure.
4. No blackening of plug pins or socket.
5. Appliance cases in good condition.
6. Plugs fit securely and tightly in sockets.
7. No cracks on sockets or plugs.
8. No more than 2 multiways in a daisy chain. Preferably none at all.

Then get one of those plug in testers with the neon lights. Plug it into
every socket in the house INCLUDING any multiway adapters. Ensure that all 3
lights come on.

Obviously, even better would be to get the whole installation tested and all
appliances PAT tested, but this is unlikely to happen, unlike the simple
cheap tests above.

Christian.

Steve Jones wrote:
Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and
the other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off,
DVD, video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house fire
from a TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to
try the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on the
mains panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse and the
power consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me but I don't
understand the relationship between power consumption and ampage.

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit more
first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

If the television really only takes 150 watts then the current should
be less than an amp unless the power factor is truly awful.

The 13 amp fuse is protecting the flex more than the television but
even so I would have thought a 5 amp one would be more sensible.
However lots of equipment seems to be supplied with 13 amp fuses
regardless of whether it makes sense or not.

--
Chris Green

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Steve Jones wrote:

Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and
the other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off,
DVD, video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house
fire from a TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to
try the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on
the mains panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse
and the power consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me
but I don't understand the relationship between power consumption and
ampage.

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit
more first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Steve

In simple terms, watts = volts x amps, or amps = watts/volts

So if your TV is 150 watts, it takes a current of 150/240 amps = 0.625 amps.

It sounds like a 13A fuse is a bit of an overkill - even allowing for a
slight surge on turn-on!

Your intelligent mains panel should work fine with the TV.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

Steve Jones wrote:
Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and
the other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off,
DVD, video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house fire
from a TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to
try the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on the
mains panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse and the
power consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me but I don't
understand the relationship between power consumption and ampage.

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit more
first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Steve

Thanks for all the answers. Even with my limited knowledge I thought the
13amp fuse was overkill. But it was manufacturer fitted!

Anyway I tried the mains panel and it does work fine except what I
didn't realise is that it also detects low power states such as standby.
So everything goes off when I put the TV into standby. Not what I had in
mind, I wanted it to power down everything else when I physically
switched it off before going to bed. Otherwise to record a programme I
would need the TV and/or STB actually on.


Steve

Christian McArdle wrote:
I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit more
first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?


No it doesn't, unless it is quite a huge thing that could stretch to a 5A
(my hungry 36" CRT model is happy on 3A). Remove it immediately and replace
it with a 3A fuse. Everything in your house should have a 3A fuse, with some
exceptions for high rated appliances, usually involving powerful motors or
heating elements. The exceptions which require 13A might include:

washing machines
tumble dryers
dishwashers
kettles
microwave ovens
conventional ovens
toasters
vacuum cleaners
fridges/freezers (some will be happy with 5A)

Anything to do with lighting or entertainment should have a 3A fuse (or
lower if you can find supplies). I would suggest going around your house and
examining every fuse to be the right value. Whilst doing this, ensure that
the following look good:

1. Cable condition.
2. Strain relief on plug and appliance ends.
3. Outer sheaf goes all the way into plug and is secure.
4. No blackening of plug pins or socket.
5. Appliance cases in good condition.
6. Plugs fit securely and tightly in sockets.
7. No cracks on sockets or plugs.
8. No more than 2 multiways in a daisy chain. Preferably none at all.

Then get one of those plug in testers with the neon lights. Plug it into
every socket in the house INCLUDING any multiway adapters. Ensure that all 3
lights come on.

Obviously, even better would be to get the whole installation tested and all
appliances PAT tested, but this is unlikely to happen, unlike the simple
cheap tests above.

Christian.



and while I'm at it I might as well go up onto the roof and check the
tiles/pointing/guttering etc.

and while I'm at it I might as well go up onto the roof and check the
tiles/pointing/guttering etc.

You're getting there!

Christian.

Anyway I tried the mains panel and it does work fine except what I
didn't realise is that it also detects low power states such as standby.
So everything goes off when I put the TV into standby. Not what I had in
mind, I wanted it to power down everything else when I physically
switched it off before going to bed. Otherwise to record a programme I
would need the TV and/or STB actually on.


Probably because standby draws such a tiny ammount of current that the panel
assumes the TV is off. No easy fix for this. Maybe use an X10 appliance
module(s) to allow you to send an off signal to everything you want off at
night??

Steve Jones wrote:
Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and
the other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off,
DVD, video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house fire
from a TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to
try the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on the
mains panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse and the
power consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me but I don't
understand the relationship between power consumption and ampage.

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit more
first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Steve

The TV has a static power consumption (shown on the plate) which can be
roughly converted to current (ignoring power factor) by dividing power
by 230 but there's a much larger (and unspecified) current drawn after
switch-on to degauss (demagnetise) the metalwork inside the CRT. The
degauss current may be 5-10A on the first half cycle and exponentially
decays to zero over the first few cycles. This is no worse than a CRT
monitor so if that's not popped the other mains panel you should be OK
with the TV. A 13A fuse does sound too big but you may find that the
switch-on inrush causes a smaller one to fail occasionally - suck it and
see.

--
Dave S
(The return email address is a dummy)

Probably because standby draws such a tiny ammount of current that the
panel
assumes the TV is off. No easy fix for this. Maybe use an X10 appliance
module(s) to allow you to send an off signal to everything you want off at
night??

Also, it is how you would want it to work surely?

Most people just want to sense standby to turn all the other stuff off and
still be able to use the remote to turn it back on again. If you can
actually be bothered to stand up, walk across and flick a real switch, then
you might as well hit the one on the socket instead of the TV. No need for
electronic assistance.

Christian.

Steve Jones wrote:
Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and
the other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off,
DVD, video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house fire
from a TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to
try the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on the
mains panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse and the
power consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me but I don't
understand the relationship between power consumption and ampage.

The fuse is utterly irrelevant.
Turn the TV round.
You should find a panel listing "240V 50Hz 250W" or similar.
In practice, I'd be extremely surprised if any TV (barring really huge
projectors for 10m screens.) took 5A.

Steve Jones wrote:
snip
and while I'm at it I might as well go up onto the roof and check the
tiles/pointing/guttering etc.

The really, really trivial way to check that you're not likely to burn it
out is to replace the 13A fuse with a 3A one.

Also, it is how you would want it to work surely?

Most people just want to sense standby to turn all the other stuff off and
still be able to use the remote to turn it back on again. If you can
actually be bothered to stand up, walk across and flick a real switch,
then
you might as well hit the one on the socket instead of the TV. No need for
electronic assistance.

Christian.

I agree, what most people would want, however the OP was trying to prevent a
similar case as his friend who had a fire caused by a TV left on standby.

"Steve Jones" wrote in message
...
Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and the
other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off, DVD,
video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house fire from a
TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to try
the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on the mains
panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse and the power
consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me but I don't
understand the relationship between power consumption and ampage.

The fuse in the plug is only there to limit the current flowing in the flex.
If the flex is rated at 13 amps, then a 13 amp fuse is quite correct. The
consumption of the TV is irrelevant to the rating of the fuse in the plug.
The TV should have its own internal overcurrent protection, matched to its
actual consumption.

Colin Bignell

"nightjar" wrote in
:


The fuse in the plug is only there to limit the current flowing in the
flex. If the flex is rated at 13 amps, then a 13 amp fuse is quite
correct.

At last a reference to what we learnt when God was a lad.

"Fuse for the cable"

I think this rush to 3A is a bit of an overkill - has this group suddenly
gone politically correct and joined Nanny state ofr the manufacturers'
benevolent club.

Even failing lightbulbs often take out a 3A fuse, and they've got a builtin
fuse!.

5A will do for me.


The consumption of the TV is irrelevant to the rating of the
fuse in the plug. The TV should have its own internal overcurrent
protection, matched to its actual consumption.

I don't think I'd go *that* far

Nothing modifies the other posters good sense that overfusing is very
dangerous unless the cable and appliance are appropriate

mike

Dave wrote:
Steve Jones wrote:

Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and
the other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off,
DVD, video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house
fire from a TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to
try the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on
the mains panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse
and the power consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me
but I don't understand the relationship between power consumption and
ampage.

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit
more first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Steve


The TV has a static power consumption (shown on the plate) which can be
roughly converted to current (ignoring power factor) by dividing power
by 230 but there's a much larger (and unspecified) current drawn after
switch-on to degauss (demagnetise) the metalwork inside the CRT. The
degauss current may be 5-10A on the first half cycle and exponentially
decays to zero over the first few cycles. This is no worse than a CRT
monitor so if that's not popped the other mains panel you should be OK
with the TV. A 13A fuse does sound too big but you may find that the
switch-on inrush causes a smaller one to fail occasionally - suck it and
see.


The slave sockets are rated 13amp, it is only the master socket that is
rated 5amp.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Steve Jones wrote:


The slave sockets are rated 13amp, it is only the master socket that
is rated 5amp.

Well, they might be individually rated thus. BUT don't forget that the plug
on the end of the input lead has a 13A fuse in it, so the TOTAL current used
by the master and all 5 slaves mustn't exceed 13A!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

In article ,
mike ring writes:
"nightjar" wrote in
:

The consumption of the TV is irrelevant to the rating of the
fuse in the plug. The TV should have its own internal overcurrent
protection, matched to its actual consumption.

I don't think I'd go *that* far

That is a requirement for appliances, where an internal fault
which draws excess current would otherwise result in an unsafe
condition (such as fire or explosion risk). A TV is not allowed
to rely on an external fuse for it to remain safe during an
internal fault.

--
Andrew Gabriel

I agree, what most people would want, however the OP was trying to prevent
a
similar case as his friend who had a fire caused by a TV left on standby.

But one of these things is unlikely to do that. It will itself be on standby
and probably made by some crappy company. The thing itself is as likely to
explode as the TV.

Christian.

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
Steve Jones wrote:
snip
and while I'm at it I might as well go up onto the roof and check the
tiles/pointing/guttering etc.

The really, really trivial way to check that you're not likely to burn it
out is to replace the 13A fuse with a 3A one.


....and if it fails, then upgrade to 5A and absent mindedly place the blown
3A fuse back in your pile of 3A fuses.....

--
Richard Sampson

mail me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"Steve Jones" wrote in message
...
Steve Jones wrote:
snip

Thanks for all the answers. Even with my limited knowledge I thought the
13amp fuse was overkill. But it was manufacturer fitted!

Anyway I tried the mains panel and it does work fine except what I
didn't realise is that it also detects low power states such as standby.
So everything goes off when I put the TV into standby. Not what I had in
mind, I wanted it to power down everything else when I physically
switched it off before going to bed. Otherwise to record a programme I
would need the TV and/or STB actually on.


Steve

Get a simple switched multi-way, put it somewhere accessible and get into
the habit of using that to switch everything off rather than the TV switch.
Or if accessible use the switch on the wall outlet socket.

There's something to be said for doing this - if the switch eventually wears
out then it's a hell of a lot cheaper to replace either the multiway or the
wall socket than it would be to have the TV main switch replaced.


--
Richard Sampson

mail me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"mike ring" wrote in message
. 1.4...
Just checking - does that mean that Colin's right and that a TV (or
appliance in general) would be unconditionally safe even with no fuse
after
the CU? So we could put a 13A fuse in as long as it was wired with a hefty
cable?

Depends on the appliance. Most electronic stuff is fused to protect its
transformers etc, but electrical stuff probably will not be

In article , nightjar
wrote:

The fuse in the plug is only there to limit the current flowing in the
flex. If the flex is rated at 13 amps, then a 13 amp fuse is quite
correct. The consumption of the TV is irrelevant to the rating of the
fuse in the plug. The TV should have its own internal overcurrent
protection, matched to its actual consumption.

AIUI the OP was referring to the plug at the end of the original flex
fitted to the TV. I doubt if it would have been 1.5mm^2 flex.

--
Mike Clarke

"Steve Jones" wrote in message
...
Just bought two of these from Maplin. One I wanted for my computer and the
other I had the idea of using it for my TV. So when TV goes off, DVD,
video and STB go off as well. A pal of mine had a small house fire from a
TV left on standby.

The one for the computer works great. But I am unsure about whether to try
the other on the TV. The problem being that the master socket on the mains
panel is rated at only 5amps. The TV plug has a 13amp fuse and the power
consumption is 150watts. A 13amp fuse seems high to me but I don't
understand the relationship between power consumption and ampage.

I could just try it and see but I would like to understand it a bit more
first. Does the TV really need a 13amp fuse?

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

I used on of these many years ago to turn on TV (acting as monitor) and disk
drive power supply for my BBC computer. Problem was TV did not like being
turned on by just applying power and kept on blowing its internal 3A fuse.
Fine if switched on via front switch but not by just applying mains. Ended
up using it on HiFi separates instead switch on pre-amp, turns on rest via
immediate switch on and ampflifier via a 5 second delayed switch on.
Eventually broke after a couple of years, consisted of relays and some
thryristers and other components (including coils), the thryristers being
blown.