My central heating pump isn't working. It goes round but you have to
flick the rotor with a screwdriver each time to get it to start.
Following advice from other posts on this group I thought it might be
the capacitor but the problem is the pump is hard to get at and when I
levered the capacitor out, it came out wires and all before I could
see where the wires came from.

The pump is a Grundfos UPS15-50x18. There seem to be eight holes
numbered 1 to 8 which you can push a wire into. Nos. 1 and 2 are
already joined by a wire link so I'm guessing it's not those but which
of the other six do I use?

All advice gratefully received.

Also. Does any one know where to get a replacement capacitor from? I
live in the Reading area.

In article ,
(dsb0118) writes:
My central heating pump isn't working. It goes round but you have to
flick the rotor with a screwdriver each time to get it to start.
Following advice from other posts on this group I thought it might be
the capacitor but the problem is the pump is hard to get at and when I
levered the capacitor out, it came out wires and all before I could
see where the wires came from.

Test the capacitor by connecting it in series with a 40W
lightbulb. The lamp should come on dimmer than normal. If
it doesn't come on at all, the capacitor has gone open-
circuit, and if it comes on full brightness, the capacitor
has gone short-circuit.

The pump is a Grundfos UPS15-50x18. There seem to be eight holes
numbered 1 to 8 which you can push a wire into. Nos. 1 and 2 are
already joined by a wire link so I'm guessing it's not those but which
of the other six do I use?

All advice gratefully received.

Also. Does any one know where to get a replacement capacitor from? I
live in the Reading area.

You could try "The Shop on the Bridge", an electrical shop
in Oxford Road just after the Dixons/Halfords/MFI/PizzaHut
shopping centre as you drive out of Reading. Check the
rating you need in µF, and ask them for a fluorescent
lamp power factor correction capacitor with the nearest
rating (value isn't very critical). I haven't been in
there for a long time, but they used to do these when
they were still in Kings Road some time ago.

If you have a fluorescent fitting somewhere in the house,
you could even steal the power factor correction capacitor
out of it (unless it was a cheap Wickes one or similar,
in which case they never bother fitting them in the first
place;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...

[snip]
You could try "The Shop on the Bridge", an electrical shop
in Oxford Road just after the Dixons/Halfords/MFI/PizzaHut
shopping centre as you drive out of Reading. Check the
rating you need in µF, and ask them for a fluorescent
lamp power factor correction capacitor with the nearest
rating (value isn't very critical). I haven't been in
there for a long time, but they used to do these when
they were still in Kings Road some time ago.
[snip]

Cor, nostalgia! I spent many a happy hour in there as a schoolboy in the mid
to late 60's. I thought it must have closed years ago, and was therefore
very surprised to see it at its new location on Oxford Rd recently, while
visiting my Mum in the Battle Hospital. I meant to go inside and have a poke
around the shop, but never got around to it. Must do so, one day!

Rick

In article ,
"Richard Sterry" writes:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...

Cor, nostalgia! I spent many a happy hour in there as a schoolboy in the mid
to late 60's.

Likewise;-)
My grandparents knew the Milne's who ran it originally. It was
the retail shop which hung off M.J.Milne electrical wholesaler.
I think it's now run by one of their sons, and if the older Mr
Milne is still around, he'd probably be over 100 by now.

I thought it must have closed years ago, and was therefore
very surprised to see it at its new location on Oxford Rd recently, while
visiting my Mum in the Battle Hospital. I meant to go inside and have a poke
around the shop, but never got around to it. Must do so, one day!

The real shop on the bridge became a wine bar come nightclub, and
they moved to the current premises, which are sadly only a tiny
fraction of the size. Same sort of thing in there, just not as
much of it, and I don't know if the wholesale business still
exists (which used to occupy several former shop presises in
Kings road just along from the original shop). I don't go into
Reading very often now (parking ticket due to badly worded
parking restriction designed as a cash earner for the council
put me off the place), so I haven't been in there for 2-3 years.

One thing that amused me in the old shop was when it reorganised
on one occasion and they built a separate cash kiosk where you
paid. They wallpapered the front of the kiosk with all the bounced
cheques they'd had returned over the years -- it made for quite
interesting reading whilst you were in the queue to pay.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Richard Sterry" writes:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...

Cor, nostalgia! I spent many a happy hour in there as a schoolboy in the
mid
to late 60's.

Likewise;-)
My grandparents knew the Milne's who ran it originally. It was
the retail shop which hung off M.J.Milne electrical wholesaler.
I think it's now run by one of their sons, and if the older Mr
Milne is still around, he'd probably be over 100 by now.

I thought it must have closed years ago, and was therefore
very surprised to see it at its new location on Oxford Rd recently, while
visiting my Mum in the Battle Hospital. I meant to go inside and have a
poke
around the shop, but never got around to it. Must do so, one day!

The real shop on the bridge became a wine bar come nightclub, and
they moved to the current premises, which are sadly only a tiny
fraction of the size. Same sort of thing in there, just not as
much of it, and I don't know if the wholesale business still
exists (which used to occupy several former shop presises in
Kings road just along from the original shop). I don't go into
Reading very often now (parking ticket due to badly worded
parking restriction designed as a cash earner for the council
put me off the place), so I haven't been in there for 2-3 years.

One thing that amused me in the old shop was when it reorganised
on one occasion and they built a separate cash kiosk where you
paid. They wallpapered the front of the kiosk with all the bounced
cheques they'd had returned over the years -- it made for quite
interesting reading whilst you were in the queue to pay.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Whilst in Reading you may wish to check out Drews the Ironmongers, close-ish
to the station. I got a nice big plastic tool box there a couple of years
ago, and took it home on the train. Stood a little too far away from it on
the platform and got the question, is this your box sir???????

In article ,
"James Salisbury" writes:

Whilst in Reading you may wish to check out Drews the Ironmongers, close-ish
to the station. I got a nice big plastic tool box there a couple of years
ago, and took it home on the train. Stood a little too far away from it on
the platform and got the question, is this your box sir???????

I haven't been in there for ages. I recall buying a 4 foot length
of M10 studding there in 1979 and I've been in a few times since.
My recollection is they were quite expensive, but did have some
of the rather more obscure things. At weekends, they used to be
only open on Saturday mornings, which usually meant they were
shut whenever I would think of using them.

Given my previous posting, this is almost too corny to mention,
but my parents knew Mrs Drew a few years ago -- she was a
neighbour, but moved away and I don't think they are in touch
anymore. I presumed Mr Drew, who originally owned Drews, had
already passed away -- at least he wasn't around at that time
and I never saw him.

There was another independant store I recall in Reading in
my youth, Sargents (or Sergents?). They originally had a large
store on Oxford Road in the middle of Reading opposite the Butts
shopping centre [forgotten what that got renamed to]. Then they
moved out to Richfield Avenue which is an industrial estate and
had only a tiny showroom no longer suitable for browsing around.
ISTR they had vanished when I passed by sometime later.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
(dsb0118) writes:
My central heating pump isn't working. It goes round but you have to
flick the rotor with a screwdriver each time to get it to start.
Following advice from other posts on this group I thought it might be
the capacitor but the problem is the pump is hard to get at and when I
levered the capacitor out, it came out wires and all before I could
see where the wires came from.

Test the capacitor by connecting it in series with a 40W
lightbulb. The lamp should come on dimmer than normal. If
it doesn't come on at all, the capacitor has gone open-
circuit, and if it comes on full brightness, the capacitor
has gone short-circuit.

The pump is a Grundfos UPS15-50x18. There seem to be eight holes
numbered 1 to 8 which you can push a wire into. Nos. 1 and 2 are
already joined by a wire link so I'm guessing it's not those but which
of the other six do I use?

All advice gratefully received.

Also. Does any one know where to get a replacement capacitor from? I
live in the Reading area.

You could try "The Shop on the Bridge", an electrical shop
in Oxford Road just after the Dixons/Halfords/MFI/PizzaHut
shopping centre as you drive out of Reading. Check the
rating you need in µF, and ask them for a fluorescent
lamp power factor correction capacitor with the nearest
rating (value isn't very critical). I haven't been in
there for a long time, but they used to do these when
they were still in Kings Road some time ago.

If you have a fluorescent fitting somewhere in the house,
you could even steal the power factor correction capacitor
out of it (unless it was a cheap Wickes one or similar,
in which case they never bother fitting them in the first
place;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel

Gabriel,
Doesn't a capacitor conduct electricity whilst its charging when its charge
no electricity is conducted this is when it a dc current but of course if
its a/c current then it will charge and discharge to the frequency of the
a/c current.
MikeS

In article ,
"MikeS" writes:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...

Test the capacitor by connecting it in series with a 40W
lightbulb. The lamp should come on dimmer than normal. If
it doesn't come on at all, the capacitor has gone open-
circuit, and if it comes on full brightness, the capacitor
has gone short-circuit.

Gabriel,
Doesn't a capacitor conduct electricity whilst its charging when its charge
no electricity is conducted this is when it a dc current but of course if
its a/c current then it will charge and discharge to the frequency of the
a/c current.

Yes. So with AC, it continuously charges and discharges, which
means an AC current flows through it, and the lamp will light.
The current will actually be slightly out of phase with the
mains voltage waveform -- for a capacitor it will be leading
the voltage waveform. The capacitor will present an impedance
which will drop the effective voltage to the lamp (like a
resistor, but with no power loss) which is why the lamp will
be dimmer, if the capacitor is working.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In message , dsb0118
writes
My central heating pump isn't working. It goes round but you have to
flick the rotor with a screwdriver each time to get it to start.
Following advice from other posts on this group I thought it might be
the capacitor but the problem is the pump is hard to get at and when I
levered the capacitor out, it came out wires and all before I could
see where the wires came from.

The pump is a Grundfos UPS15-50x18. There seem to be eight holes
numbered 1 to 8 which you can push a wire into. Nos. 1 and 2 are
already joined by a wire link so I'm guessing it's not those but which
of the other six do I use?

All advice gratefully received.

Also. Does any one know where to get a replacement capacitor from? I
live in the Reading area.

Third time I've said it in a month ... I've just thrown a load out

The capacitor goes between holes 4 and 8

I might have some still lying around

ring me tomorrow

www.cetltd.com

--
geoff

In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
Check the
rating you need in μF,

2uF / 400v~ (older ones 2.2uF)

it's printed on the capacitor

--
geoff

In message , MikeS
writes

Gabriel,
Doesn't a capacitor conduct electricity whilst its charging when its charge
no electricity is conducted this is when it a dc current but of course if
its a/c current then it will charge and discharge to the frequency of the
a/c current.


It's an ac motor, and it's a motor start capacitor

please go on ...

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , MikeS
writes

Gabriel,
Doesn't a capacitor conduct electricity whilst its charging when its
charge
no electricity is conducted this is when it a dc current but of course if
its a/c current then it will charge and discharge to the frequency of the
a/c current.


It's an ac motor, and it's a motor start capacitor

please go on ...

--
geoff

When testing a capacitor it is safer using a mulitmeter using low voltage DC
than using mains with a lamp in series.
Hence my rhetorical question re the characteristics of a capacitor. I know
its an AC drive motor. Safety first.

A friend of mine who had a good education, unlike me, wired up his mothers
iron he connected the positive to the positive terminal likewise the neg to
neg but for some reason only known to him he shared the earth connection
with the pos and neg terminals. and blew the company fuse. This is why I
don't take for granted the level of understanding when it comes to
electricity.

You have only to see the fatility figures for the building industy to get a
clear idear how reckless some building workers are. Also see the post where
the plasterer kept doing his job whilst getting eletrical shocks very macho!
MikeS

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I don't go into
Reading very often now (parking ticket due to badly worded
parking restriction designed as a cash earner for the council
put me off the place), so I haven't been in there for 2-3 years.

Grrr,

I've been caught by Reading's badly worded parking zone signs. Everyone
I asked agreed with my interpatation of the signage as well...

I wrote an appeal letter pointing out my findings and quoting British
and EU laws requiring clarity of public signs etc...
They replied stating that the signs had been approved and that I still
had to pay up.

I think Reading is in the top three councils making a profit from
parking schemes.

What makes it worse is that I live in a Reading Residents parking zone
yet the useless council refuse to give me a permit.
/rant

--
Peter D

In message , MikeS
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , MikeS
writes

Gabriel,
Doesn't a capacitor conduct electricity whilst its charging when its
charge
no electricity is conducted this is when it a dc current but of course if
its a/c current then it will charge and discharge to the frequency of the
a/c current.


It's an ac motor, and it's a motor start capacitor

please go on ...

--
geoff

When testing a capacitor it is safer using a mulitmeter using low voltage DC
than using mains with a lamp in series.

How so?

How are you going to test a capacitor properly with a multimeter?

If the capacitor has lost some of it's capacitance (common fault in CH
pump capacitors), it will still show as being a capacitor but might not
have enough oomph (technical term) to start the motor

Also, it might work perfectly well at low voltages but fail at mains.

Hence my rhetorical question re the characteristics of a capacitor. I know
its an AC drive motor. Safety first.

A friend of mine who had a good education, unlike me, wired up his mothers
iron he connected the positive to the positive terminal likewise the neg to
neg but for some reason only known to him he shared the earth connection
with the pos and neg terminals. and blew the company fuse. This is why I
don't take for granted the level of understanding when it comes to
electricity.

Especially as it's extremely unlikely that you'd get an iron working on
DC. There is no positive or negative, only live and neutral (+ earth)

Sounds like he didn't have much of a clue


You have only to see the fatility figures for the building industy to get a
clear idear how reckless some building workers are.

We're not on about reckless building workers, are we ?


--
geoff

Peter wrote in
:

I've been caught by Reading's badly worded parking zone signs. Everyone
I asked agreed with my interpatation of the signage as well...

Many years ago, when I worked in Reading, 'they' changed the direction of
some one way streets. During the day. With cars parked along them.

Police were less than impressed when they had to spend hours stopping
traffic to enable people to turn their cars round. More fun watching.

--
Rod

www.annalaurie.co.uk

"Peter" wrote in message
...
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I don't go into
Reading very often now (parking ticket due to badly worded
parking restriction designed as a cash earner for the council
put me off the place), so I haven't been in there for 2-3 years.

Grrr,

I've been caught by Reading's badly worded parking zone signs. Everyone I
asked agreed with my interpatation of the signage as well...

I wrote an appeal letter pointing out my findings and quoting British and
EU laws requiring clarity of public signs etc...
They replied stating that the signs had been approved and that I still had
to pay up.

I think Reading is in the top three councils making a profit from parking
schemes.

What makes it worse is that I live in a Reading Residents parking zone yet
the useless council refuse to give me a permit.
/rant

--
Peter D

You have to take Reading parking signs as read:-)

Is that the one that did a lot of surplus electronic gear in the sixties? seem to remember that from my trips from Didcot.

replying to raden, Jeff wrote:
Hi Geoff
I appreciate this is a very old thread,but am hoping someone can help.Ive had
the same issue,and would like to thank you for answering the original question.
Could I just ask as with mine the wires just seem to be slid into holes 4 and
8.
Should they be soldered in or is there a screw type mechanism under where they
sit,or is just sliding them in good enough.mine maybe the older version as
there are no numbers to the hole,that I can see,it's in situ and hard to get a
great look at it.
I thank you in advance and hope this post is still read

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...mp-121604-.htm

On 11/12/2016 14:14, Jeff wrote:

replying to raden, Jeff wrote:
Hi Geoff
I appreciate this is a very old thread,but am hoping someone can
help.Ive had
the same issue,and would like to thank you for answering the original
question.
Could I just ask as with mine the wires just seem to be slid into holes
4 and
8.
Should they be soldered in or is there a screw type mechanism under
where they
sit,or is just sliding them in good enough.mine maybe the older version as
there are no numbers to the hole,that I can see,it's in situ and hard to
get a
great look at it.
I thank you in advance and hope this post is still read

Geoff has not been reading the group for some time now.

However to answer your question, the wires just push into the holes -
there is no screw to tighten or any soldering required. If you have no
numbering there will normally be a wire link between 1 & 2. So you cap
goes into the last hole at the other end, and one after the hold
adjacent to the link.

See:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/zlTgCk5xd10/maxresdefault.jpg

or a better view:

https://www.alpinehomeair.com/partne...1417_500_0.jpg


--
Cheers,

John.

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