I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override. The "manual" says "see later sections for manual
override wiring" but these later sections don't seem to exist. Which?
Guide just says "follow the instructions"!

Ideally I'd like to be able to override it manually from two different
places, which involves the added complication of two way swithing,
although I don't even know if this is possible atm.

On 10 Mar 2004 12:10:24 -0800, in uk.d-i-y (4-LOM)
strung together this:

I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override. The "manual" says "see later sections for manual
override wiring" but these later sections don't seem to exist. Which?
Guide just says "follow the instructions"!

Ideally I'd like to be able to override it manually from two different
places, which involves the added complication of two way swithing,
although I don't even know if this is possible atm.

It depends on how the internals are wired. If there is a 'spare'
terminal not mentioned in the instructions with 2 wires in it already
then that will most probably be the 'override' terminal. If you run a
switched live to this terminal then when the switch is on, the light
is on and vice-versa. If this is the way then wire the override wiring
as below but also run an additional permanent live into the fitting.

OTOH if there are only 3 terminals then you can't do that. Some lights
overrides work by turning the supply to it on and off two or three
times in quick succession. If this is the way then just wire the
supply to the fitting as a normal two way lighting circuit.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

4-LOM submitted this idea :
I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override. The "manual" says "see later sections for manual
override wiring" but these later sections don't seem to exist. Which?
Guide just says "follow the instructions"!

Ideally I'd like to be able to override it manually from two different
places, which involves the added complication of two way swithing,
although I don't even know if this is possible atm.

The usual way (might work) is to briefy turn the light off then back
on, the light will then stay on until daylight overides it, or you
manually turn it off.

Turning it off, waiting ten seconds, then turning it on restores normal
PIR operation once the light has settled.

--


--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

Mine aint a Wickes, but I think they are all pretty similar.

To have it on all the time you switch it off and then on again within three
seconds. To have it off all the time, well that's probably a bit obvious. If
you want to do this from two locations I would think a standard two way
light switch arrangement to facilitate the on/off routine would do it.

Gnome


"4-LOM" wrote in message
om...
I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override. The "manual" says "see later sections for manual
override wiring" but these later sections don't seem to exist. Which?
Guide just says "follow the instructions"!

Ideally I'd like to be able to override it manually from two different
places, which involves the added complication of two way swithing,
although I don't even know if this is possible atm.

In message , 4-LOM
wrote
I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override.

Usually if you switch the lamp on-off-on within a few seconds the light
remains on with the PIR disabled.

To put it back to PIR mode turn the light off - leave it off for 30
seconds - and then switch it back on again. the light will come on but
then automatically go off after the time-out period unless triggered by
the PIR.

Ideally I'd like to be able to override it manually from two different
places, which involves the added complication of two way swithing,
although I don't even know if this is possible atm.

The automatic PIR/manual override mode is purely on the switching of the
supply to the lamp.
--
Alan

4-LOM wrote:
I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override. The "manual" says "see later sections for manual
override wiring" but these later sections don't seem to exist. Which?
Guide just says "follow the instructions"!

Try turning off, on, off, on, and see if it overrides.

4-LOM wrote:
I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override. The "manual" says "see later sections for manual
override wiring" but these later sections don't seem to exist. Which?
Guide just says "follow the instructions"!

Alternatively, you need to work out where the relay switches between.
Then wire the override switch in parallel.

In article , 4-LOM
writes
I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override. The "manual" says "see later sections for manual
override wiring" but these later sections don't seem to exist. Which?
Guide just says "follow the instructions"!

My security light goes into over-ride if you switch it off and on again
reasonably quickly - so it always stays on after a power cut!

J.
--
John Rouse

"4-LOM" wrote in message
om...
I've just got a 150W PIR security light from Wickes, but the "manual"
(sorry, I mean scrap of paper) isn't very helpful. I can see how to
wire it up to run on automatic all the time, with an isolation switch
to turn it off completely, but I want to know how to set it up for
manual override. The "manual" says "see later sections for manual
override wiring" but these later sections don't seem to exist. Which?
Guide just says "follow the instructions"!

Ideally I'd like to be able to override it manually from two different
places, which involves the added complication of two way swithing,
although I don't even know if this is possible atm.

There's a fourth connection on the 500W version. Connecting a switch
between this and line turns the light on.
Connecting a load between this and neutral should operate.

But whether the 150W is the same ?

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
.uk...

The usual way (might work) is to briefy turn the light off then back
on, the light will then stay on until daylight overides it, or you
manually turn it off.

On one[*] I fitted recently for a friend you had to do this /twice/ to
trigger the override. Presumably a ploy to stop single dips or brown-outs
from bringing the light on.
[*] A Newey & Eyre 'Newlec' brand one.

--
Andy

"G&M" wrote in message ...
There's a fourth connection on the 500W version. Connecting a switch
between this and line turns the light on.
Connecting a load between this and neutral should operate.

But whether the 150W is the same ?

There is a fourth connection on it, labelled L1. The instructions seem
to imply that this is for slaving other lights to the PIR, but it's
not very definite.

What everyone has said about switching it off and then on again after
2 seconds agrees with the instructions, but they also tantalisingly
mention "override connections" which are never fully explained.

I think I'm going to try just wiring it up from a junction box, with 2
way switching just like a normal light. Only thing is the instructions
*are* very specific about giving it a DP isolator. I can live without
one, as it'll be on the shed circuit, so it's easy to turn off the
isolator at the garage unit for maintenance purposes. But will it be
against the regs? And will anyone care?

On 11 Mar 2004 12:28:46 -0800, in uk.d-i-y (4-LOM)
strung together this:

"G&M" wrote in message ...
There's a fourth connection on the 500W version. Connecting a switch
between this and line turns the light on.
Connecting a load between this and neutral should operate.

But whether the 150W is the same ?

There is a fourth connection on it, labelled L1. The instructions seem
to imply that this is for slaving other lights to the PIR, but it's
not very definite.

That'd be for the 'hard wired' override also. If you put a live cable
in this terminal the light will come on, remove it and the light will
revert to 'standard' operation.

What everyone has said about switching it off and then on again after
2 seconds agrees with the instructions, but they also tantalisingly
mention "override connections" which are never fully explained.

I think I'm going to try just wiring it up from a junction box, with 2
way switching just like a normal light. Only thing is the instructions
*are* very specific about giving it a DP isolator. I can live without
one, as it'll be on the shed circuit, so it's easy to turn off the
isolator at the garage unit for maintenance purposes. But will it be
against the regs? And will anyone care?

The way you suggest will be fine, no DP switch needed.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.