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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so
will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? |
#2
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On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? It will still fail an MOT -- Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as foolish, and by the rulers as useful. (Seneca the Younger, 65 AD) |
#3
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I guess that depends on the wear of the tread area and whether the different
dynamic will affect handling. Surely by now somebody tested this idea. Brian -- This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! "R D S" wrote in message ... I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? |
#4
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It depends how obvious it is I suppose, I'd say that when I was very young
and my father was alive some vehicles did not like different aged tyres on the front inducing weird vibrations in the steering at certain speeds. Brian -- This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote: I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? It will still fail an MOT -- Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as foolish, and by the rulers as useful. (Seneca the Younger, 65 AD) |
#5
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On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? After my last puncture I saw a video on tyre plugs, DIY, rather than the internal patch that I think some repair shops use. Something like this, (not the one I actually watched but similar) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCwWPlaghfs |
#6
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On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? OMG no tubes....used to do that years ago....not a good idea |
#7
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On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? going abroad some countries demand same make and style on same axle... |
#8
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On 27/01/2021 11:34, Jimmy Stewart ... wrote:
On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote: I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? going abroad some countries demand same make and style on same axle... Has anyone ever had their tyres inspected that closely when going abroad? I've visited countries in winter like Germany and Austria where they require winter tyres but have never had mine inspected, so always wondered whether the extra cost and bother was really worth-while. -- Clive Page |
#9
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On 27/01/2021 11:30, Pancho wrote:
After my last puncture I saw a video on tyre plugs, DIY, rather than the internal patch that I think some repair shops use. Local place plug them, but this is too close to the sidewall. |
#10
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On 27/01/2021 11:37, Clive Page wrote:
Has anyone ever had their tyres inspected that closely when going abroad?Â*Â* I've visited countries in winter like Germany and Austria where they require winter tyres but have never had mine inspected, so always wondered whether the extra cost and bother was really worth-while. It's certainly not something i'm going to worry about in the immediate future. |
#11
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In the old days we were of course told never to mix a radial with a
crossply on an axle. Nowadays there is no need to discard a sound tyre with lots of tread when replacing the other one but if you are concerned why not just buy the same tyre. What you could do is move any mismatched tyres to the rear and keep two of the same on the front. |
#12
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On 27/01/2021 11:50, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jan 2021 10:29:44 +0000, R D S wrote: I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? When I was at uni very many years ago, a group of us went on a camping tour of Europe during the summer vac. We had a couple of cars, and because tubeless tyres were just beginning to come on the market, and no one was really confident of their performance, one of the car owners put tubes into their tubeless tyres, to be on the safe side, belt and braces etc. Big mistake. They had several bursts, supposedly due to friction between the inner tube and the casing of the tubeless tyre, the latter not being designed to take tubes. Eventually they took the tubes out altogether, and it was all OK after that. Interesting. That isn't happening then. The tyres aren't massively worn so it's paining me to replace one let alone the pair. In skint days of old there was a garage i'd go to that would stick a tube in anything for a tenner. In hindsight a poor idea but moot if you haven't £50 to spare. The local garage/tyre place I use charge about £22 to fix a puncture these days but i'm sure this one isn't repairable. They were taken over by a chain and i've never been in the place since without a battle about whether to do the tracking for another 50 quid. The falsest economy ever though was 4 part worns from a seedy backstreet place, they didn't bother balancing them and they never sealed properly against the rims so they were in constant need of inflation! |
#13
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On 27/01/2021 11:58, John Smith wrote:
What you could do is move any mismatched tyres to the rear and keep two of the same on the front. Yes, i've done that in the past but forgotten, good idea. Probably better tread on the rears too, we replaced all 4 at once. |
#14
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R D S wrote in :
The tyres aren't massively worn so it's paining me to replace one let alone the pair. If it's one worn from say 8mm new to 6mm now then I'd have no qualms just changing one. More difference then that and I'd look at the tread on the rears with a view to moving them to the front as a wear balanced pair. I would only repleace with a matching make and type. |
#15
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If the tyres are at least reasonably common types, do you not have
someone nearby that does "part worn" tyres? * Match the brand, type and (maybe) amount of tread and there's zero issues... *There are sevral such places around here, one of the few perks of living close to a big city I guess. |
#16
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On Wed, 27 Jan 2021 10:29:44 +0000, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? Do you have a spare tyre? If you do, then one option is to replace the spare with the nearly new tyre and then get a new pair on the front. I would guess that it also very much depends on how much read is left on the sound front tyre. If it is over 80% (say) of a new tyre then it seems reasonable to just replace the damaged one. You could also replace both front tyres but retain the good one (if you have storage space) against future eventualities. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#17
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On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? I have lost several front nearside tyres to road debris in the last few years. I've not had any problems replacing just that tyre, although the other front tyre always had a good tread depth and I always buy the same tyre make and type. -- Colin Bignell |
#18
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On 27/01/2021 11:17, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
It depends how obvious it is I suppose, I'd say that when I was very young and my father was alive some vehicles did not like different aged tyres on the front inducing weird vibrations in the steering at certain speeds. Brian That's usually because the front wheels haven't been balanced. -- Max Demian |
#19
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On 27/01/2021 12:31, David wrote:
Do you have a spare tyre? No, Just a can of gubbins which I assume is as old as the car, 8 years. Given we're virtually under house (and work, a mere 1.5 mile away) arrest for the foreseeable I wonder about chucking that in and see what happens. |
#20
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On 27/01/2021 11:38, R D S wrote:
On 27/01/2021 11:30, Pancho wrote: After my last puncture I saw a video on tyre plugs, DIY, rather than the internal patch that I think some repair shops use. Local place plug them, but this is too close to the sidewall. Close to the sidewall can still legally be repaired, but it requires hot vulcanisation, which most repair places can't offer. If they are cheapish tyres, change both. If they are both nearly new, not too expensive tyres, change the one. If they are both well worn, change both. If they are both fairly new and expensive, then it might be worth pursuing the vulcanisation option. Don't even think of using an inner tube. Modern, tubeless tyres are not made smooth enough inside and can wear through. They can also go suddenly - a friend ended up going backwards into a motorway barrier. Luckily only the car and barrier were damaged and it was late at night, with little traffic. |
#21
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On 27/01/2021 11:37, Clive Page wrote:
On 27/01/2021 11:34, Jimmy Stewart ... wrote: On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote: I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? going abroad some countries demand same make and style on same axle... Has anyone ever had their tyres inspected that closely when going abroad?Â*Â* I've visited countries in winter like Germany and Austria where they require winter tyres but have never had mine inspected, so always wondered whether the extra cost and bother was really worth-while. None of them require cars visiting the country to have matching tyres, only that tyre places replace tyres in pairs. There are some mountain passes where a requirement for winter tyres or even chains is signposted and failure to adhere to those can result in fines. IIRC, Germany's requirement for winter tyres is not absolute. Germans are "required" to change their tyres for winter or summer, but if they fail to do so, they are simply assumed to be at fault in any accident. |
#22
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On 27/01/2021 12:19, R D S wrote:
On 27/01/2021 11:58, John Smith wrote: What you could do is move any mismatched tyres to the rear and keep two of the same on the front. Yes, i've done that in the past but forgotten, good idea. Probably better tread on the rears too, we replaced all 4 at once. Don't forget your spare, if you have one. Mine is a full-sized spare, on a matching wheel and about 1/3 worn. So ideal to replace a part worn damaged one and the new could become a spare. |
#23
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On 27/01/2021 12:19, R D S wrote:
On 27/01/2021 11:58, John Smith wrote: What you could do is move any mismatched tyres to the rear and keep two of the same on the front. Yes, i've done that in the past but forgotten, good idea. Probably better tread on the rears too, we replaced all 4 at once. On front wheel drive the recommendation is to have the better (tread) tyres on the back. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#24
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On 27/01/2021 13:32, alan_m wrote:
On front wheel drive the recommendation is to have the better (tread) tyres on the back. Is it, i'd like to see the logic behind that. Instinct would be to have the better ones where the braking and steering happens. |
#25
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"Steve Walker" wrote in message
... On 27/01/2021 11:38, R D S wrote: On 27/01/2021 11:30, Pancho wrote: After my last puncture I saw a video on tyre plugs, DIY, rather than the internal patch that I think some repair shops use. Local place plug them, but this is too close to the sidewall. Close to the sidewall can still legally be repaired, but it requires hot vulcanisation, which most repair places can't offer. Why is it that most tyres (in my experience) develop punctures close to the edge of the tread (where they can't be repaired) rather than in the middle of the tread (where they can be)? It's not that I've conveniently forgotten about "the majority" of punctures which *can* be repaired. Of the various punctures that I've had over the years, I'd say that about 3/4 have been unrepairable at the edge of the tread. That's leaving out punctures in the sidewall - like when an oncoming tractor pulled onto his wrong side of the road (after previously being stationary, which I interpreted as "he's seen me and is waiting for me as he should") and forced me to swerve onto the verge, ripping the sidewall of a tyre that had about 50 miles use on it: I was not best pleased at that, and I didn't get his number to claim off him. |
#26
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On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? If the other front is significantly worn, I'd replace both, and scrap whichever is the worst of your remaining 3/4 tyres. If the other front is less than say 25% worn, I'd probably leave it on. |
#27
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On 27/01/2021 13:40, R D S wrote:
On 27/01/2021 13:32, alan_m wrote: On front wheel drive the recommendation is to have the better (tread) tyres on the back. Is it, i'd like to see the logic behind that. Instinct would be to have the better ones where the braking and steering happens. I think the logic is that, on or near the limit, if the rears lose grip first, backing off the throttle will make things worse, but if the fronts lose grip first, backing off the throttle will help to regain grip. But yes, under normal conditions, you would instinctively want the driven and steering wheels to have the most grip. -- Biggles |
#28
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On 27/01/2021 13:40, R D S wrote:
On 27/01/2021 13:32, alan_m wrote: On front wheel drive the recommendation is to have the better (tread) tyres on the back. Is it, i'd like to see the logic behind that. Instinct would be to have the better ones where the braking and steering happens. Far better to have the front begin to let go, where you can ease off and get it back under control, than to have the back end pass you and you have no control. It's the same reason that the rear brakes of home-built cars are tested to ensure that they don't lock up before the front wheels on heavy braking - production cars are designed from the outset for that. |
#29
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Pancho wrote:
After my last puncture I saw a video on tyre plugs, DIY, rather than the internal patch that I think some repair shops use. Something like this, (not the one I actually watched but similar) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCwWPlaghfs Yeah I bought one of those sticky string kits, but when it came down to it, I thought it looked a bit "too redneck" |
#30
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On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? Legally you can fit different makes of tyres provided they are the same size and construction. If the "good" tyre isn't very worn I would just replace the punctured one with the closest in tread pattern I could find. https://www.justtyres.co.uk/pages/tyres-and-the-law I have had this done by reputable dealers recently. I would not use a "part worn" as you don't know how they have been maltreated. Putting a tube in isn't legal as the problem is the structure of the tyre could been damaged. If you were to have an accident then your insurance company might be unhappy... Dave |
#31
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![]() "nightjar" wrote in message ... On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote: I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? I have lost several front nearside tyres to road debris in the last few years. Mine havent been just the front nearside, most have been the drivers side, and it was kerb strike one time, my fault, and a kangaroo tail I ran over with the other one. I've not had any problems replacing just that tyre, Me neither. But it presumably varys with how good the design of the car steering is. although the other front tyre always had a good tread depth Mine didnt always. and I always buy the same tyre make and type. I dont, I use what they have thats cheapest. The ABS works so well and we dont get black ice or snow either, so I dont need high performance tyres. The roads can get a bit slick from tree stuff in droughts but the ABS handles that fine with crash stops. |
#32
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On Thu, 28 Jan 2021 04:47:50 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread |
#33
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Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote
I guess that depends on the wear of the tread area and whether the different dynamic will affect handling. Surely by now somebody tested this idea. Trouble is that varys with the design of the front end. With the original Golf, you could quite literally have one wheel off the bitumen in the dirt, jam your foot on the brakes as hard as you could, with no hands on the steering wheel at all and it would pull up in a straight line. Because the projection of the vertical axle would hit the road inside the tyre. "R D S" wrote in message ... I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? |
#34
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On Wed, 27 Jan 2021 10:29:44 +0000, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() What is a shame here is how many 'perfectly good' tyres end up getting dumped when they needn't be. 1) You drive over something and it either goes straight in and stays there (but not causing a leak as it doesn't penetrate the inner skin) .... or stays there till you hear it and pull it out (still not causing a leak), or comes out (still not causing a leak). You didn't realise you drove over something but may have damage to the structure of the tyre but because you haven't had a puncture, you carry on until: a) The then tyre fails, potentially hiding the damage b) The damage is spotted and repaired or replaced c) The damage isn't spotted and the tyre replaced when worn out. 2) You drive over something and it either goes straight in and stays there, not causing a leak (even though it has penetrated the inner layer, see a, b and c above), stays there but causing a slow leak, meaning: d) you carry on driving on it and assuming no TPS / warning, do so at speed without noticing, cause the tyre to heat up excessively and eventually blow out. e) and / or you notice it's low / flat the next time you look at that tyre or notice it when driving, in which case you: f) Pump it up and drive on it some more g) Replace it with the spare and get it repaired or replaced. or stays there till you hear it and pull it out (causing a leak), then either f or g above. Now, the repair in the case of say a panel pin making a clean hole though to the inside of the tyre (and it not compromising the structure of the tyre at all) simply requires some sort of means of stopping the air getting out. Tyres often suffer all sorts of cuts and holes in the treaded area that are no deeper or more dangerous than the tread itself. The 'problem with them repairing a leak is the amount of flex and therefore delamination risk of any air-blocking patch that may be vulcanised / glued to the inside. If such a patch should come loose then the risk is no different / greater than when you got that puncture in the first place. The flex in the tyre is greatest near the sidewall / tread area and hence why most places won't fix a leak there, not because doing so is in itself dangerous (as in compromising the structure of the tyre) but simply because it's unlikely to last. The issue isn't the goal, it's the (typical) process used. Now what if there was a way of blocking the hole to stop the air leaking out that couldn't become delaminated because it wasn't stuck over the hole but was stuck in it, from the inside? Now we know they do that with the 'mushroom' repairs but that often / generally involves drilling the hole out by quite an amount, potentially then doing structural damage (cutting one or more of the cords) in the process. If a hole did expose one of the cords / belts and it happens to be steel, a patch on the inside can prevent air getting out but not water getting in and potentially rusting a steel cord / belt, causing it / them to fail later on. Again, an 'alternative' repair could fill the entire hole with a material that cures with heat and time and prevents both the air getting out and water getting in. If a larger object penetrates the tyre it could do damage without causing any air loss (even if it goes right though). All could be well till the object is thrown out and then the tyre could suffer a rapid deflation and then (depending on the speed , load and distance traveled), cause a complete tyre failure. It's my personal preference (and has been for 20+ years now) to treat all my tyres with a semi-liquid pre-puncture gloop (that is self balancing, non corrosive, water soluble in it's uncured state and not anything like most similar products or the 'emergency' get-you-home cans) that seal any puncture up to a reasonable size and not on the sidewall, in every case so far for the remaining life of the tyre and *before* you will have done any damage by running the tyre when partially deflated / deflating. Whilst it is designed to be used pre-puncture, I have used it many times as a post puncture repair and in no instance has the tyre leaked further or had any other issues, often saving a perfectly good tyre because the 'system' hasn't yet caught up to the fact that such things exist that do work and are safe. And why would the tyre companies push such a solution versus selling you a new tyre? Personally, I would much rather risk the instance when such a repair makes any situation worse, over the though of me, my family or anyone else being put at unnecessary risk from the more likely risks when dealing with the consequences of a puncture. This type of solution (excuse the pun) is already available off-the-shelf via offering like the Continental 'Contiseal' range: https://www.continental-tyres.co.uk/...gies/contiseal .... and we enjoy the same level of protection from a product called 'Punctureseal'. https://www.punctureseal.com/ That's not 'and products like it with similar names', it's specifically that and only that product (although I'm sure others may exist). This includes our trailers, motorcyles, cars, vans, mobility scooters and other peoples ride on mowers, wheelbarrows and the like. I'm not advocating it's use over a spare wheel, I'm reflecting it's use to prevent (in most cases) having to use the spare wheel. Cheers, T i m |
#35
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On 27/01/2021 13:41, NY wrote:
Why is it that most tyres (in my experience) develop punctures close to the edge of the tread (where they can't be repaired) rather than in the middle of the tread (where they can be)? I had two 255/35R19 Y tyres on the old car that had punctures in the centre of the tread. Simple fixes. Then I a screw go in right on the edge of the sidewall of the latest car when I had had it for only 4 days. Ruined a 255/40R18Y RF that had only 2250 miles on it. Not a cheap replacement. |
#36
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On Thu, 28 Jan 2021 06:42:56 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH the trolling senile sociopath's latest troll**** unread -- addressing nym-shifting senile Rodent: "You on the other hand are a heavyweight bull****ter who demonstrates his particular prowess at it every day." MID: |
#37
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In article ,
mm0fmf wrote: On 27/01/2021 13:41, NY wrote: Why is it that most tyres (in my experience) develop punctures close to the edge of the tread (where they can't be repaired) rather than in the middle of the tread (where they can be)? I had two 255/35R19 Y tyres on the old car that had punctures in the centre of the tread. Simple fixes. Then I a screw go in right on the edge of the sidewall of the latest car when I had had it for only 4 days. Ruined a 255/40R18Y RF that had only 2250 miles on it. Not a cheap replacement. I had to buy a tyre to get through my MOT. All the others had been changed because of punctures. It was cheaper than the one I had to buy last year. Same tyre, same dealer. but still £145. -- from KT24 in Surrey, England "I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle |
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On 27/01/2021 10:29, R D S wrote:
I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() Or shall I take it somewhere shifty and have a tube put in? One car I had had 4 alloys where the spare was a steel. I found myself in a similar situation so I bought a new rim, well 2 in fact from eBay. I know you can't keep your spare on your car, but if you can store one then you can either change in pairs, or in your current case, swap with a good spare without discarding a part worn tyre. |
#39
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On 27/01/2021 20:19, T i m wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jan 2021 10:29:44 +0000, R D S wrote: I've a puncture on a front tyre, it's not in the legal repair area so will need changing. I can't decide whether to do both. that's the advice isn't it (from tyre sellers ![]() What is a shame here is how many 'perfectly good' tyres end up getting dumped when they needn't be. Part worn tyres are worth money, they're rarely 'dumped'. |
#40
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In article , "Brian Gaff (Sofa)"
writes It depends how obvious it is I suppose, I'd say that when I was very young and my father was alive some vehicles did not like different aged tyres on the front inducing weird vibrations in the steering at certain speeds. Brian I had a weird experience with my Jeep Cherokee when I put 2 new tyres on the front. It wouldn't drop out the diff lock. I had to drive slowly to the dealer who then explained that the way out of it was to put one new tyre on each axle - or buy 2 more new tyres. -- bert |
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