On Fri, 3 Jul 2020 17:53:24 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 01:10:21 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:28:50 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

You said all that before. I think if you shared what you are trying to
achieve/create you’ll get a lot more useful replies than “buy a Dremel”
etc.

I am building something that the user will slide the stock to be cut into a slot. The slot being only wide enough for for the stock. Imagine the user being too young to use a dangerous power saw. But old enough to use a tool with a fully enclosed rotating saw blade.

that's what those vibrating saws are for

+1

Daughter and I designed and built a dolls house together when she was
about 5 and she used the vibro saw on her own (loosely supervised) for
cutting up the stair treads (there were quite a few as it was a 'town
house' design g) and any of the other smaller bits. That said, she
was a reasonably bright 5 year old.

She also was quite good at soldering (at around the same age) and when
she was a bit older, using the pillar drill and arc welding etc. ;-)

With the right PPE, the right instruction and the right safety guards
in place and working, there is no reason why such things can't be
done.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I wonder if any of the above was a seed for her skills in
chainsaw carving. ;-)

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 10:36:26 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 04/07/2020 08:55, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:

When the stock is only ever 2mm thick what would be suitable speed for a fine tooth blade 2- 3" diameter?


The ready made one previously listed says approx 8000 rpm (no load)
dropping to 5000 rpm for a 58mm (2 inch) blade.

You originally indicated that you were going to use a 30mm diameter
blade so for the same cutting speed at the edge of the blade you would
have needed approx 16,000 rpm (no load) dropping to 10,000 rpm, hence
the comment that maybe 3500 rpm was too slow.

I also note that the motors used in the commercially available products
and those shown in the DIY Youtube videos take 60W to 80W under load
while your selected motor is rated closer to a maximum of 3W. Your
get-out maybe is that you are not trying to cut 9mm plywood etc. However
I would recommend that you rig up your chosen motor with blade and power
supply and see what it can cut before committing to an enclosures. You
may discover that you need a bigger battery and your unit morphs from a
micro table saw into something larger.

Remember also that a child feeding in a piece of wood though a slot is
not necessarily going to keep it consistently square to the blade and
could easily stall the motor.


For comparison a Dremel type tool can be 80W+ and with their (smaller)
cutting blades on plastic they recommend around 10,000 rpm and closer to
25,000 rpm for soft woods.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Useful info, thanks.
I will set up the kit and measure its capacity. Then try a bigger motor, etc
and analyse the difference.

Thanks again.

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 11:00:22 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jul 2020 17:53:24 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 01:10:21 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:28:50 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

You said all that before. I think if you shared what you are trying to
achieve/create youll get a lot more useful replies than €œbuy a Dremel€�
etc.

I am building something that the user will slide the stock to be cut into a slot. The slot being only wide enough for for the stock. Imagine the user being too young to use a dangerous power saw. But old enough to use a tool with a fully enclosed rotating saw blade.

that's what those vibrating saws are for

+1

Daughter and I designed and built a dolls house together when she was
about 5 and she used the vibro saw on her own (loosely supervised) for
cutting up the stair treads (there were quite a few as it was a 'town
house' design g) and any of the other smaller bits. That said, she
was a reasonably bright 5 year old.

She also was quite good at soldering (at around the same age) and when
she was a bit older, using the pillar drill and arc welding etc. ;-)

With the right PPE, the right instruction and the right safety guards
in place and working, there is no reason why such things can't be
done.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I wonder if any of the above was a seed for her skills in
chainsaw carving. ;-)

Tim.
Not sure what you mean by a 'vibrating saw'. I'm sure you don't mean a multi-tool.
On a related note, I've never soldered before. Could you recommend one to me from RapidOnline please? And the type of soldering consumables I'll need.

Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Saturday, 4 July 2020 11:00:22 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jul 2020 17:53:24 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 01:10:21 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:28:50 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

You said all that before. I think if you shared what you are trying to
achieve/create youll get a lot more useful replies than €œbuy a Dremel€�
etc.

I am building something that the user will slide the stock to be cut
into a slot. The slot being only wide enough for for the stock.
Imagine the user being too young to use a dangerous power saw. But old
enough to use a tool with a fully enclosed rotating saw blade.

that's what those vibrating saws are for

+1

Daughter and I designed and built a dolls house together when she was
about 5 and she used the vibro saw on her own (loosely supervised) for
cutting up the stair treads (there were quite a few as it was a 'town
house' design g) and any of the other smaller bits. That said, she
was a reasonably bright 5 year old.

She also was quite good at soldering (at around the same age) and when
she was a bit older, using the pillar drill and arc welding etc. ;-)

With the right PPE, the right instruction and the right safety guards
in place and working, there is no reason why such things can't be
done.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I wonder if any of the above was a seed for her skills in
chainsaw carving. ;-)

Tim.
Not sure what you mean by a 'vibrating saw'.

That wasnt me. Youve messed up the attributions.

I presumed NY was talking about a multi-tool type oscillating blade tool.
Very good at cutting rigid stuff, rubbish for seriously cutting flesh. If
youve ever had a plaster removed in A&E a vibrating saw is commonly used
for this reason. Of course if youre determined you could probably do
yourself some mischief but the odd flesh wound is part of the learning
process. ;-)

I'm sure you don't mean a multi-tool.

I think he did. ;-)

On a related note, I've never soldered before. Could you recommend one to
me from RapidOnline please? And the type of soldering consumables I'll need.

Go on to YouTube and search for €œBig Clive€� and €œsoldering€�. Hes got some
good basic soldering advise there and easy to watch a video than read wordy
explanations.






--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 04/07/2020 14:35, Tim+ wrote:



Go on to YouTube and search for €œBig Clive€� and €œsoldering€�. Hes got some
good basic soldering advise there and easy to watch a video than read wordy
explanations.


+1 for BigClive

and don't get too hung up about lead free solder which can be the spawn
of the devil. Get 60/40 Tin/Lead Rosin (Flux) Core Solder and life will
be easier.

Example
https://www.rapidonline.com/rapid-60...der-wire-30236

Smaller quantities available on Ebay
Completely random example
https://tinyurl.com/ya2r6vqq

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 15:01:19 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 04/07/2020 14:35, Tim+ wrote:



Go on to YouTube and search for €œBig Clive€� and €œsoldering€�. Hes got some
good basic soldering advise there and easy to watch a video than read wordy
explanations.


+1 for BigClive

and don't get too hung up about lead free solder which can be the spawn
of the devil. Get 60/40 Tin/Lead Rosin (Flux) Core Solder and life will
be easier.

Example
https://www.rapidonline.com/rapid-60...der-wire-30236

Smaller quantities available on Ebay
Completely random example
https://tinyurl.com/ya2r6vqq

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk


0.7mm ok for this?

On 04/07/2020 16:47, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Saturday, 4 July 2020 15:01:19 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 04/07/2020 14:35, Tim+ wrote:



Go on to YouTube and search for €œBig Clive€� and €œsoldering€�. Hes got some
good basic soldering advise there and easy to watch a video than read wordy
explanations.


+1 for BigClive

and don't get too hung up about lead free solder which can be the spawn
of the devil. Get 60/40 Tin/Lead Rosin (Flux) Core Solder and life will
be easier.

Example
https://www.rapidonline.com/rapid-60...der-wire-30236

Smaller quantities available on Ebay
Completely random example
https://tinyurl.com/ya2r6vqq

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk


0.7mm ok for this?


Possibly ok but you are not exactly soldering miniature electronic
components so a bit thicker may be better. However if you do get 0.7mm
and find it too thin just take a length, bend it in half and lightly
twist the 2 strands together, or even bend it in half again and twist
the 4 strands. Solder wire is VERY soft.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 06:05:40 -0700 (PDT), Arthur Ravenscroft
wrote:

snip

Tim.

Hello.

Not sure what you mean by a 'vibrating saw'. I'm sure you don't mean a multi-tool.

No, I think we call them that but they may be (also) called 'scroll
saw'.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/scroll-saws...ode=1939396031

On a related note, I've never soldered before. Could you recommend one to me from RapidOnline please? And the type of soldering consumables I'll need.

It may depend on what you fancy doing and what budget you have as to
what kit (the iron especially) you may need?

If you are an electronics / soldering nooby it might be useful to
start with a good quality kit and of something you might actually use,
even if only as a novelty.

Something daughter soldered up and we still used daily is a kitchen
timer:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-MK.../dp/B000TA3FOE

Or eBay 131069634133 etc.

It's a bit fiddly because of the number and size of the LEDs so maybe
work to that after something easier (fewer components, bigger tracks
etc).

This could be good and has been tested by many voting Leave on the
last referendum: ;-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-MK135-Electronic-Decision-Multi-Colour/dp/B000LQYOL4/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Velleman&qid=15938690 85&sr=8-3


For the tools, I'd go for one of these for cleaning the iron tip:

eBay:

323858281528

Some lead free flux core solder, probably 1mm OD might be a good
compromise (you need it fine enough so you can use a bit and not flood
the joint but big enough to be a big joint without having to feed in
yards).

One of the couple of things that might be worth not skimping on (or
not buying really cheap) is some flush cutting side cutters. These are
for trimming the legs off the through hole components after soldering
and (light) wire cutting etc.

The other is the soldering iron itself. I think 25W is considered
reasonably general for light electronics and something 'known' that
you can get spares for could be a better investment. Also 'adjustable
temperature' is very handy for fine tuning the job, solder, speed of
soldering on. If it's a good temperature rig, a higher wattage can be
handy with a bigger tip for the heavier jobs.

You can get direct mains powered irons, or low voltage that typically
come was a 'soldering station' that the iron also sits in whilst in
use. You can also get lighter fluid 'gas' irons that can be very handy
when away from mains. Not really recommended for small electronics
(but I have used such when pushed).

I have had a Weller soldering iron since my BT days that I still use
and it's over 50 years old now and still going fine. That said, it's a
bit like triggers broom, in that it's had a couple of replacement
parts but they are still available now. ;-)

https://www.weller-tools.com/professional/EUR/en/Home

Antex are another known brand:

https://www.antex.co.uk/home/

There are also loads of Chinese brands that are often copies of more
expensive things that are still good irons and because they are
common, spares readily available:

I have something like this (bought s/h faulty and repaired):

eBay: 124244110066

And I've found it very good.

A fairly fine chisel point tip would be a good one to start with.
Maybe 1-1.5mm wide. It needs to have enough mass to carry the heat to
the joint easily but not be too big to get around component legs.

I'm sure others will add other advice and their own personal
preferences. ;-)

If you come up with anything, run it past the people here before
buying.

Cheers, T i m

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 15:01:19 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 04/07/2020 14:35, Tim+ wrote:



Go on to YouTube and search for €œBig Clive€� and €œsoldering€�. Hes got some
good basic soldering advise there and easy to watch a video than read wordy
explanations.


+1 for BigClive

and don't get too hung up about lead free solder which can be the spawn
of the devil. Get 60/40 Tin/Lead Rosin (Flux) Core Solder and life will
be easier.

Example
https://www.rapidonline.com/rapid-60...der-wire-30236

Smaller quantities available on Ebay
Completely random example
https://tinyurl.com/ya2r6vqq

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Just tried adding that solder to the basket and the site tells me, I need to have a Credit Account. And the solder will be removed from the basket at check out.

On 04/07/2020 17:41, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Saturday, 4 July 2020 15:01:19 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 04/07/2020 14:35, Tim+ wrote:



Go on to YouTube and search for €œBig Clive€� and €œsoldering€�. Hes got some
good basic soldering advise there and easy to watch a video than read wordy
explanations.


+1 for BigClive

and don't get too hung up about lead free solder which can be the spawn
of the devil. Get 60/40 Tin/Lead Rosin (Flux) Core Solder and life will
be easier.

Example
https://www.rapidonline.com/rapid-60...der-wire-30236

Smaller quantities available on Ebay
Completely random example
https://tinyurl.com/ya2r6vqq

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Just tried adding that solder to the basket and the site tells me, I need to have a Credit Account. And the solder will be removed from the basket at check out.



There is a warning near the top of that page

"Please note: This product contains lead and rosin. As of 1st March 2018
the supply of solder containing lead at a concentration above the
relevant limit as set out under Article 67 (by virtue of Annex XVII of
the REACH regulation) is restricted to professional use only."

That's why you buy from Ebay where the sellers of the same will sell to
anyone.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

alan_m wrote:
On 02/07/2020 18:23, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
Hi.
I am fancying a little project using electrical components.
I want to make a mini-mini-table saw.
I've looked at the RS Components website and its all bit out there for me.
I think I'd like it to run on battery power at this stage but I may be being naive.
The work that the saw is being designed for cutting very thin sections
of timber..2mm thick.

I will build a manifold/body from acrylic or something.

So what is a list of components I will need to complete this.

eg
motor ( recommendations on this necessary)
spindle,
connectors,
gears,
battery holder type
soldering iron.
soldering consumables.
etc.

Thanks.

Arthur



Cutting 2mm thick slices of timber from what (what size is the original
wood stock)? What type of blade were you considering?

Maybe look at buying a Chinese knock off Dremel type tool which already
will have the necessary attachments. Or are you looking for something
larger?

https://tinyurl.com/yaunuxkf


Worth checking Lidl. They recently had a rechargeable Parkside version of a
Dremel on offer for under £20- including some accessories. I bought the
same one some time back and Im very pleased with it. Only €˜niggle is the
Quill thread / dia seems to be different to any of the others on the market
so getting a 3 jaw Chuck has proved impossible so far. (I €˜ve a couple of
other, mains powered, ones which I was able to get chucks for. )



--
https://www.unitedway.org/our-impact...an-trafficking

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 08:55:35 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Saturday, 4 July 2020 01:50:38 UTC+1, tabby wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 19:06:34 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Thursday, 2 July 2020 18:23:49 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
Hi.
I am fancying a little project using electrical components.
I want to make a mini-mini-table saw.
I've looked at the RS Components website and its all bit out there for me.
I think I'd like it to run on battery power at this stage but I may be being naive.
The work that the saw is being designed for cutting very thin sections of timber..2mm thick.

I will build a manifold/body from acrylic or something.

So what is a list of components I will need to complete this.

eg
motor ( recommendations on this necessary)
spindle,
connectors,
gears,
battery holder type
soldering iron.
soldering consumables.
etc.

Thanks.

Arthur


Hi all.
Sorry if my original request was too vague.
Lots of you assumed I was after a ready made product but thats far from the case.
To avoid any more confusion Im ordering this,
https://www.rapidonline.com/mfa-917d...mbled--37-1215
to get me started.

This has a 3mm shaft so you might help me locate the fixings required to fix
a mini saw blade that has a 6mm bore in it.

Thanks.

Arthur

Fastest output of that is 3700rpm, way too low. Removing the gearbox should get you 14,800rpm, a fairer speed for such a tiny blade.


NT
When the stock is only ever 2mm thick what would be suitable speed for a fine tooth blade 2- 3" diameter?

depends on the blade. I'd look at what the mfr recommends. My Dremel does 33,000rpm with a max blade size of under 2". I think that's excessive for a sawblade, but it's worth noting that one can run sawblades at way above rated speed, albeit with potential for problems.

Especially when a tool is in a child's hands you need to consider what happens if something hard is whacked into the blade. The casing must contain the flying spinning sawblade.


NT

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 14:05:42 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Saturday, 4 July 2020 11:00:22 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jul 2020 17:53:24 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 01:10:21 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:28:50 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:

You said all that before. I think if you shared what you are trying to
achieve/create youll get a lot more useful replies than €œbuy a Dremel€�
etc.

I am building something that the user will slide the stock to be cut into a slot. The slot being only wide enough for for the stock. Imagine the user being too young to use a dangerous power saw. But old enough to use a tool with a fully enclosed rotating saw blade.

that's what those vibrating saws are for

+1

Daughter and I designed and built a dolls house together when she was
about 5 and she used the vibro saw on her own (loosely supervised) for
cutting up the stair treads (there were quite a few as it was a 'town
house' design g) and any of the other smaller bits. That said, she
was a reasonably bright 5 year old.

She also was quite good at soldering (at around the same age) and when
she was a bit older, using the pillar drill and arc welding etc. ;-)

With the right PPE, the right instruction and the right safety guards
in place and working, there is no reason why such things can't be
done.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I wonder if any of the above was a seed for her skills in
chainsaw carving. ;-)

Tim.
Not sure what you mean by a 'vibrating saw'. I'm sure you don't mean a multi-tool.

Vibrating saws only move the blade a little. Result is they don't slice through flesh. They come in more than one format. The oscillating saw waggles side to side, and I've not tried chopping a finger off but I'm not convinced the movement is small enough to be safe. There are also vibrating fretsaws that are child friendly.

On a related note, I've never soldered before. Could you recommend one to me from RapidOnline please? And the type of soldering consumables I'll need.

Iron: depends what you do & budget.

Consumables: solder, flux. Both must be for electronics, not plumbing. Also a bit of wet card / denim / cellulose sponge etc to clean the tip.


NT

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 16:47:44 UTC+1, Arthur Ravenscroft wrote:
On Saturday, 4 July 2020 15:01:19 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 04/07/2020 14:35, Tim+ wrote:



Go on to YouTube and search for €œBig Clive€� and €œsoldering€�. Hes got some
good basic soldering advise there and easy to watch a video than read wordy
explanations.


+1 for BigClive

and don't get too hung up about lead free solder which can be the spawn
of the devil. Get 60/40 Tin/Lead Rosin (Flux) Core Solder and life will
be easier.

Example
https://www.rapidonline.com/rapid-60...der-wire-30236

Smaller quantities available on Ebay
Completely random example
https://tinyurl.com/ya2r6vqq

0.7mm ok for this?

about twice that would be better, but it would work


NT

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 17:40:48 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 06:05:40 -0700 (PDT), Arthur Ravenscroft
wrote:

On a related note, I've never soldered before. Could you recommend one to me from RapidOnline please? And the type of soldering consumables I'll need.

It may depend on what you fancy doing and what budget you have as to
what kit (the iron especially) you may need?

If you are an electronics / soldering nooby it might be useful to
start with a good quality kit and of something you might actually use,
even if only as a novelty.

Something daughter soldered up and we still used daily is a kitchen
timer:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-MK.../dp/B000TA3FOE

Or eBay 131069634133 etc.

It's a bit fiddly because of the number and size of the LEDs so maybe
work to that after something easier (fewer components, bigger tracks
etc).

This could be good and has been tested by many voting Leave on the
last referendum: ;-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-MK135-Electronic-Decision-Multi-Colour/dp/B000LQYOL4/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Velleman&qid=15938690 85&sr=8-3


For the tools, I'd go for one of these for cleaning the iron tip:

eBay:

323858281528

Some lead free flux core solder, probably 1mm OD might be a good
compromise (you need it fine enough so you can use a bit and not flood
the joint but big enough to be a big joint without having to feed in
yards).

One of the couple of things that might be worth not skimping on (or
not buying really cheap) is some flush cutting side cutters. These are
for trimming the legs off the through hole components after soldering
and (light) wire cutting etc.

The other is the soldering iron itself. I think 25W is considered
reasonably general for light electronics and something 'known' that
you can get spares for could be a better investment. Also 'adjustable
temperature' is very handy for fine tuning the job, solder, speed of
soldering on. If it's a good temperature rig, a higher wattage can be
handy with a bigger tip for the heavier jobs.

You can get direct mains powered irons, or low voltage that typically
come was a 'soldering station' that the iron also sits in whilst in
use. You can also get lighter fluid 'gas' irons that can be very handy
when away from mains. Not really recommended for small electronics
(but I have used such when pushed).

I have had a Weller soldering iron since my BT days that I still use
and it's over 50 years old now and still going fine. That said, it's a
bit like triggers broom, in that it's had a couple of replacement
parts but they are still available now. ;-)

https://www.weller-tools.com/professional/EUR/en/Home

Antex are another known brand:

https://www.antex.co.uk/home/

There are also loads of Chinese brands that are often copies of more
expensive things that are still good irons and because they are
common, spares readily available:

I have something like this (bought s/h faulty and repaired):

eBay: 124244110066

And I've found it very good.

A fairly fine chisel point tip would be a good one to start with.
Maybe 1-1.5mm wide. It needs to have enough mass to carry the heat to
the joint easily but not be too big to get around component legs.

I'm sure others will add other advice and their own personal
preferences. ;-)

If you come up with anything, run it past the people here before
buying.

Cheers, T i m


Re irons, almost any iron of around 25w is fine for a beginner if you're not soldering connectors with it. I've used some real junk on occasion, even the one with a nail for a tip worked well enough. I wouldn't recommend the little 15w things for general use.

Stay away from soldering guns & gas irons. They have their uses but as a first soldering tool they're just a bad idea.

Leaded solder beats unleaded, but either works.

Effective wire cutters are cheap, but cheap ones damage the first time iron wire is cut. Even lower on the curve are ones where the blades don't line up. Anything from Rapid should be ok.

A 1/4" bit is good for general use, but you can use pretty much anything. Even brass plug pins work ok.

You can get all the tools you need from a car boot sale for a few quid, but do at least check the iron is earthed before plugging in. Very old solder is not recommended for beginners, soldered joints must be spotlessly clean.


NT

On 05/07/2020 02:24, wrote:


Effective wire cutters are cheap, but cheap ones damage the first time iron wire is cut. Even lower on the curve are ones where the blades don't line up.

Tell me about it - I purchased some (finger/toe) nail scissor/clippers a
few months back and after failing to cut anything I examined the blades

BTW one type I do recommend (for finger/toe nails) are the Scholl
branded one I purchased later
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Slightly back on topic
I would recommend both a "precision" type cutter AND something more
heavy duty - from someone who has the T shirt from attempting to cut
mains wire with a small pair of cutters before deciding to get off his
arse to fetch something more appropriate

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sunday, 5 July 2020 11:34:58 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 05/07/2020 02:24, tabbypurr wrote:


Effective wire cutters are cheap, but cheap ones damage the first time iron wire is cut. Even lower on the curve are ones where the blades don't line up.

Tell me about it - I purchased some (finger/toe) nail scissor/clippers a
few months back and after failing to cut anything I examined the blades

BTW one type I do recommend (for finger/toe nails) are the Scholl
branded one I purchased later
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Slightly back on topic
I would recommend both a "precision" type cutter AND something more
heavy duty - from someone who has the T shirt from attempting to cut
mains wire with a small pair of cutters before deciding to get off his
arse to fetch something more appropriate

I think a common cause of failure of small cutters is using them for things they really don't have the strength for.


NT

On Sun, 5 Jul 2020 06:39:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

snip

I would recommend both a "precision" type cutter AND something more
heavy duty - from someone who has the T shirt from attempting to cut
mains wire with a small pair of cutters before deciding to get off his
arse to fetch something more appropriate

I think a common cause of failure of small cutters is using them for things they really don't have the strength for.

I think you are right.

I had a lovely pair of close side cutters I'd had and used for *years*
and because they were good and seemed to cut anything and easily, one
day I pushed that too far. ;-(

I think it might have been the time after I pushed them too far as
they failed very easily.

They may have been from my BT says (so over 45 yeas old) as I had my
name melted inside the handle grip. I managed to find a clean
identical pair on eBay and swapped the grips over from my broken pair.
;-)

Triggers broom. ;-)

Cheers, T i m